Contact Printing Large Format negatives with a Leica Focomat V35?

[v.kapoor]

Hey LF,

I have limited space for a darkroom and am planning to do mainly contact printing like Weston for my 4x5 and 8x10 prints.

However, I also shoot 35mm and found an amazing deal on a Leica Fotomat V35. Can I kill two birds with one stone, and use this enlarger light for properly exposing contact prints. The enlarger has only one bulb, so I'm afraid that it might cause vignetting or not evenly expose a negative that is wider than 35mm.

Please advise :)

Thanks!

[LabRat]

The V35 is a diffusion box design and should be ok past 35mm frame... Their earlier 35mm enlargers would print the larger 127 film size, and I think there might be a carrier made for a slightly larger film size for that, but I don't remember...

Best test is to fog a piece of test strips or sheet of photo paper very under exposed on baseboard areas and see if you can spot a gradation, then you will know what the "safe" area of illumination is...

Steve K

[v.kapoor]

Steve,

Thanks for the suggestion. Can you expound on this, as I'm new to the darkroom. What do you mean on baseboard areas?

[LabRat]

The board on the bottom of enlarger (where the easel goes) is the baseboard... The light should cover the contact print area well, but should not be a problem with this enlarger... But you can check with/without neg carrier in enlarger...

Steve K

[v.kapoor]

Thank you.

[Fred L]

I have the same enlarger as well and it's not a problem I've encountered. The light will be even across the frame so I don't why you need to worry about vignetting. You're not enlarging the LF negative so coverage is not an issue. Look at it this way. when you make contacts of 8x10 negs, it's basically the same as making a contact of a roll of 35 onto 8x10 paper. No difference.

[Oren Grad]

I have the same enlarger as well and it's not a problem I've encountered. The light will be even across the frame so I don't why you need to worry about vignetting. You're not enlarging the LF negative so coverage is not an issue. Look at it this way. when you make contacts of 8x10 negs, it's basically the same as making a contact of a roll of 35 onto 8x10 paper. No difference.

This. You absolutely can use a 35-format enlarger as an illumination source for contact printing. The enlarger format is irrelevant - all the matters is the ability to project illumination evenly at the baseboard across the format you're printing. It's especially convenient if the enlarger has a color head so you can just dial in filtration for printing on variable contrast papers, but above-the-lens or under-the-lens VC filters are fine too.

[v.kapoor]

Wonderful! Do any of you have experience with a V35? Want to make sure I'm not buying a dud.


This. You absolutely can use a 35-format enlarger as an illumination source for contact printing. The enlarger format is irrelevant - all the matters is the ability to project illumination evenly at the baseboard across the format you're printing. It's especially convenient if the enlarger has a color head so you can just dial in filtration for printing on variable contrast papers, but above-the-lens or under-the-lens VC filters are fine too.

[v.kapoor]

Thanks Fred!

It sounds like you have experience with the V35. I found a really good deal on one ($200) but want to determine the pitfalls to look for before purchase. I know these things are well made, overall, but just wondering. What should I look out for?


I have the same enlarger as well and it's not a problem I've encountered. The light will be even across the frame so I don't why you need to worry about vignetting. You're not enlarging the LF negative so coverage is not an issue. Look at it this way. when you make contacts of 8x10 negs, it's basically the same as making a contact of a roll of 35 onto 8x10 paper. No difference.

[LabRat]

Wonderful! Do any of you have experience with a V35? Want to make sure I'm not buying a dud.

Mainly, it needs to be complete... 40mm Focomat Leica lens, proper negative carrier, color module (the thing in the back with the color or MG knobs), and overall good condition...

If you get one, the lamp socket electrical connector usually goes bad eventually, so plan on a new one, as this design gets really hot there, causing connector failure... And the bulbs are not common, but there's a different bulb that will work when you get the new connector style...

Great enlargers, I have been servicing one for another photographer, and have used it to print (I own several models of other Leitz enlargers, and like them all!!!)...

Find a copy of manual or catalog online to see all accessories for this unit, and make sure you will get everything you need with it...

Good luck,

Steve K

[v.kapoor]

Thanks for all the help everyone! Going to take a look at the V35 tomorrow. Asking price is only $200.

[Jim Jones]

Even when a photographer has an enlarger capable of providing adequate illumination for contact printing, it may be more convenient to use a simple light bulb for contact printing like Edward Weston and many other masters did. The simplest solution to a problem is often the best.

[Tin Can]

The V-35 is wonderful

I paid twice that 8 years ago

Mine was complete and #10 of 14 sold by a Nebraska college dumping all Darkroom gear

The autofocus does work well, once you adjust the height where column meets baseboard

http://gmpphoto.blogspot.com/2019/08/leica-enlarger-leitz-focomat-v35.html

[Fred L]

if everything works properly, $200 is an absolute steal. make sure the lens aperture ring is smooth and not sticky as that could mean you could nudge the af off a bit. it had three modules, a b/w module (with red filter) a colour module (great for variable contrast papers) and a multigrade module. If it doesn't have a manual, I'll try and find and scan it. and you don't need the Leitz easel in case you were wondering.

[Michael Kadillak]

Should work perfectly. I use my Durst 138S illuminated with a high intensity Ilford multi contrast light head to contact print 8x20, 11x14 as well as 8x10. One of the things you are going to have to deal with is the methodology in managing contrast control with your printing. You can use the subtractive filtration as a one shot exposure from companies like Ilford (get these new to ensure they are aligned with the new papers) or the green and blue Roscoe filters as a double exposure - one from each filter. Prefer the filtration is above the lens stage but sometimes it is not possible. Do the best you can. Heck of a great acquisition. I have a mint Leica 2C. They are marvelous machines.

[ggbushaw]

There should be no problem using the V35 for contact printing large format negatives. If you have any concern about light fall-off in the corners, just run the enlarger head higher up the column. Then you won't be using the corners.

[v.kapoor]

Great, thanks Steve!


Mainly, it needs to be complete... 40mm Focomat Leica lens, proper negative carrier, color module (the thing in the back with the color or MG knobs), and overall good condition...

If you get one, the lamp socket electrical connector usually goes bad eventually, so plan on a new one, as this design gets really hot there, causing connector failure... And the bulbs are not common, but there's a different bulb that will work when you get the new connector style...

Great enlargers, I have been servicing one for another photographer, and have used it to print (I own several models of other Leitz enlargers, and like them all!!!)...

Find a copy of manual or catalog online to see all accessories for this unit, and make sure you will get everything you need with it...

Good luck,

Steve K

[ic-racer]

One thing I discovered contact printing using collimated light (light coming from a lens) is that every dust spec on both sides of the glass, both sides of the negative and the surface of the paper would show clearly.

[Maris Rusis]

One thing I discovered contact printing using collimated light (light coming from a lens) is that every dust spec on both sides of the glass, both sides of the negative and the surface of the paper would show clearly.

Too true! Not only this but with the enlarger lens well stopped down any specks on the glass negative carrier, enlarger condensers or diffusion plates could also be imaged as out of focus blobs. One solution is to remove the enlarger negative carrier and focus the lens on the air in the bellows. I also add a below-the-lens diffuser that goes on top of the below-the-lens contrast filters (Ilford type).

One advantage of using collimated enlarger light for contact printing is that the shadows of dodging wands and burning cards are sharp so local exposure control can be rather precise.

[Tin Can]

I never use my V-35 for contact printing

If you are buying one for only that purpose, don't do it

Jim Jones and Maris have good points

[v.kapoor]

Thanks!

SO- it turns out the owner selling the Fotomat V35 for $200 had taken apart the lens to clean out the dust, but never put it back together! Aperture blades everywhere. Seems dicey to purchase it like this...

Pictures attached.

209087
209088
209088209089

[Fred L]

Thanks!

SO- it turns out the owner selling the Fotomat V35 for $200 had taken apart the lens to clean out the dust, but never put it back together! Aperture blades everywhere. Seems dicey to purchase it like this...

Pictures attached.

209087
209088
209088209089

YIKES !!! no wonder the price is right.I have two spare Focotars if you decide to get the enlarger. Aperture ring is not super silky smooth. Might be worth seeing what the enlarger comes with (colour or MG module etc) as it cld still be worth getting.

[LabRat]

One thing I discovered contact printing using collimated light (light coming from a lens) is that every dust spec on both sides of the glass, both sides of the negative and the surface of the paper would show clearly.

The old pro-lab trick was to focus the edge of neg carrier sharp on the printing frame, then throw the focus off a little which creates diffusion where dust and fingerprint shadows on top of printer glass vanish...

Steve K

[LabRat]

YIKES !!! no wonder the price is right.I have two spare Focotars if you decide to get the enlarger. Aperture ring is not super silky smooth. Might be worth seeing what the enlarger comes with (colour or MG module etc) as it cld still be worth getting.

Lens can still be OK without iris, as the 40mm Focotar is still deadly sharp wide open (unlike most all other enlarger lenses), and enlarger alignment is very good, so still usuable, just more inconvenience involved...

Super smooth ring is usually not needed, as a printer usually only uses one aperture setting for most all work, and enlarger is bright, so not needed to open lens for focusing every time...

And only a few blades in iris, so someone should be able to put it back together (if all parts are there)...

Steve K

[v.kapoor]

It has the color module. What would you be asking for one of your 40mm/2.8?

Thanks!


YIKES !!! no wonder the price is right.I have two spare Focotars if you decide to get the enlarger. Aperture ring is not super silky smooth. Might be worth seeing what the enlarger comes with (colour or MG module etc) as it cld still be worth getting.

[v.kapoor]

Again, new to darkroom stuff. Wouldn't a wide open lens give me less exposure times, so less time for dodging/burning, etc?


Lens can still be OK without iris, as the 40mm Focotar is still deadly sharp wide open (unlike most all other enlarger lenses), and enlarger alignment is very good, so still usuable, just more inconvenience involved...

Super smooth ring is usually not needed, as a printer usually only uses one aperture setting for most all work, and enlarger is bright, so not needed to open lens for focusing every time...

And only a few blades in iris, so someone should be able to put it back together (if all parts are there)...

Steve K

[Tin Can]

I use a 5X7 enlarger with a big hot enlarging bulb at highest elevation

No lens, just a 3" hole

with DIY center filter for evenness tested with a high end spot meter

now there is time to wave my hands or use a mask


Again, new to darkroom stuff. Wouldn't a wide open lens give me less exposure times, so less time for dodging/burning, etc?

[John Kasaian]

FWIW I like my Printfile proofer under a cheap Meopta 4x4 enlarger for contact printing.
I tried the heavy float glass + bare bulb route, then a POP frame for bit.
Sadly missed out on a real life mahogany contact printer when Adolph Gasser's closed shop.

[v.kapoor]

Blue Moon Camera in Portland, Ore. has plenty of nice old-school contact frames, if you're still jonesing for one.


FWIW I like my Printfile proofer under a cheap Meopta 4x4 enlarger for contact printing.
I tried the heavy float glass + bare bulb route, then a POP frame for bit.
Sadly missed out on a real life mahogany contact printer when Adolph Gasser's closed shop.

[MartinP]

It seems that you don't know what contact-printing is? The light-source doesn't matter. Just use a desklamp with a low power bulb, and maybe a few layers of normal white paper as a way of getting conveniently longer exposures. Save the $200 for paper and chemicals.

[Jim Jones]

The further from the contact printing frame the lamp is, the more even the illumination is. Mounting it close to the ceiling keeps it out of the way and provides more even lighting. Check for uneven light emission from any lamp.

[v.kapoor]

I know what Contact Printing is. Refer to my original post:

"I have limited space for a darkroom and am planning to do mainly contact printing like Weston for my 4x5 and 8x10 prints.

However, I also shoot 35mm and found an amazing deal on a Leica Fotomat V35. Can I kill two birds with one stone, and use this enlarger light for properly exposing contact prints. "


It seems that you don't know what contact-printing is? The light-source doesn't matter. Just use a desklamp with a low power bulb, and maybe a few layers of normal white paper as a way of getting conveniently longer exposures. Save the $200 for paper and chemicals.

[v.kapoor]

Thanks for the note, Jim.


The further from the contact printing frame the lamp is, the more even the illumination is. Mounting it close to the ceiling keeps it out of the way and provides more even lighting. Check for uneven light emission from any lamp.

[agregov]

Hey LF,

... Leica Fotomat V35. Can I kill two birds with one stone, and use this enlarger light for properly exposing contact prints. The enlarger has only one bulb, so I'm afraid that it might cause vignetting or not evenly expose a negative that is wider than 35mm.

Thanks!

Short answer, yes you can use an enlarger for contact printing. And no, you should not have problems with vignetting. Simply make sure your enlarger light fall over your entire contact printing frame.

Longer answer.... I'm unclear about your experience with contact printing so forgive anything obvious the follows. There's some mention in the thread about using a light bulb. That's the traditional way for exposing contact prints and works great. However, it also often assumes one is using one of the slow silver chloride papers. Light bulbs throw too much light for most variable contrast papers. There's only two silver chloride papers left, Lodima and Adox Lupex. Lodima has been largely out of stock for some time. And Lupex only comes in a single grade 3 paper. For doing traditional contact prints with a light bulb, you need both a properly exposed negative paired with the right grade of paper. For instances when you need more or less contrast in your final image that is not contained in the negative, the lack of additional grades of paper (grades 2, 3 and 4), makes it more difficult to make very high quality work contact printing traditionally. You also have less access to paper developers as many traditional b&w developers make poor prints on silver chloride papers (often a blue hue). So, you would need to use Amidol or Formulary 130.

The advantage to making contact prints with an enlarger is you can choose from many excellent variable contrast papers available from a variety of manufacturers and many paper developers. In this case, if you need to add more or less contrast in your image, you simply dial the magenta (more contrast) or yellow (less contrast) filters on the enlarger head in the case of the Leica, and you're off to the races. You have unlimited contrast options. In addition to far more control over contrast of the image, you can also print your 35mm negatives with this enlarger.

So, the longer answer is if you have the room, the Leica would be a great way to make contact prints. Extra bonus is you can make enlargements from your 35mm negatives. With respect to the lens being taken apart, I'd probably assume that won't work and buy a new lens. The Leica enlarger uses a 39mm screw mount so you should be able to find another lens fairly easily (50mm might be best). Make sure the enlarger comes with a film holder or two. Those will be difficult to find used. Good luck.

[v.kapoor]

This is so helpful! Thank you for taking the time to make this clear. I appreciate it.


Short answer, yes you can use an enlarger for contact printing. And no, you should not have problems with vignetting. Simply make sure your enlarger light fall over your entire contact printing frame.

Longer answer.... I'm unclear about your experience with contact printing so forgive anything obvious the follows. There's some mention in the thread about using a light bulb. That's the traditional way for exposing contact prints and works great. However, it also often assumes one is using one of the slow silver chloride papers. Light bulbs throw too much light for most variable contrast papers. There's only two silver chloride papers left, Lodima and Adox Lupex. Lodima has been largely out of stock for some time. And Lupex only comes in a single grade 3 paper. For doing traditional contact prints with a light bulb, you need both a properly exposed negative paired with the right grade of paper. For instances when you need more or less contrast in your final image that is not contained in the negative, the lack of additional grades of paper (grades 2, 3 and 4), makes it more difficult to make very high quality work contact printing traditionally. You also have less access to paper developers as many traditional b&w developers make poor prints on silver chloride papers (often a blue hue). So, you would need to use Amidol or Formulary 130.

The advantage to making contact prints with an enlarger is you can choose from many excellent variable contrast papers available from a variety of manufacturers and many paper developers. In this case, if you need to add more or less contrast in your image, you simply dial the magenta (more contrast) or yellow (less contrast) filters on the enlarger head in the case of the Leica, and you're off to the races. You have unlimited contrast options. In addition to far more control over contrast of the image, you can also print your 35mm negatives with this enlarger.

So, the longer answer is if you have the room, the Leica would be a great way to make contact prints. Extra bonus is you can make enlargements from your 35mm negatives. With respect to the lens being taken apart, I'd probably assume that won't work and buy a new lens. The Leica enlarger uses a 39mm screw mount so you should be able to find another lens fairly easily (50mm might be best). Make sure the enlarger comes with a film holder or two. Those will be difficult to find used. Good luck.