Should I get a center filter for my 65mm Nikon-SW f/4 & 90mm Sinaron-W f/6.8?

[manfrominternet]

So I have three wide angle lenses - a 65mm Nikon Nikkor-SW f/4, a 75mm Nikon Nikkor-SW f/4.5, and a 90mm Sinar Sinaron-W f/6.8. (I think all have a 67mm front attachment filter thread.)

Should I spend an extra $400 to get a center filter to help with vignetting, or can I take care of said vignetting with Photoshop?

If you guys do recommend a center filter, which one(s) would you recommend?

Many thanks!

[Bob Salomon]

Only you can answer this. Do you shoot negs or chromes? Do you see the falloff? If so, does it bother you? Do you mind spending time correcting falloff in PS?

[mhayashi]

Check this site.
https://galerie-photo.com/center_filters_for_large_format_lenses.pdf

According to the site, +1.5 stop center filter could be used for your all three lenses.

BTW, I use the Schneider IIIc center filter for apo grandagon 55mm and for super angulon 47mm xl.
It works very well on both lenses.

[manfrominternet]

Only you can answer this. Do you shoot negs or chromes? Do you see the falloff? If so, does it bother you? Do you mind spending time correcting falloff in PS?

Hi Bob,

I shoot both color negative and color transparency (Ektar, Portra 160/400, Provia, and Velvia, specifically).

I definitely see falloff with my 65mm Nikon Nikkor-SW f/4, especially when I’m shooting transparency. With my 90mm Sinar Sinaron-W f/6.8, the falloff is very slight, but still there. It’s bothersome, for sure.

I wouldn’t mind spending the time correcting the falloff on Photoshop, but I’m not sure what the best way is to this, or if editing on Photoshop would even look good.

I guess the real question is would spending $300+ on a center filter be worth it if I can solve it with Photoshop? Is it even possible to fix in Photoshop?

[Kiwi7475]

It’s posible to fix in photoshop, easy to do it in camera raw filter but it’s not trivial to do it accurately. Mind you you can’t even create a standard fix (like by recording an action) because the effect will shift following your movements for a given shot.

To learn the best correction in a neutral state (no movements), you can take a shot of a white wall or equivalent uniformly illuminated surface and play with it on photoshop to remove the fall off the best you can — that will tell you the radius of the radial vignette to apply and also how strong. Then you can do the same for any other shot, and if you use movements I would record on paper approximately what and by how much so that you can use it as a starting point in photoshop to move the circle.

Note all this works assuming that with the fall off around edges you still are in the linear region of the exposure. Otherwise if you’re close to the toe, the amount will not be constant, or worse, it’s not recoverable. With slides it gets tricky quickly because the dynamic range is so limited to start with (for example you would need to check that the exposure will work around the edges given the known fall off, but then again is only really easy in a neutral state — no movements).

It’s definitely easier to have the filter on the lens for sure. Whether it’s worth that much, depends on your wallet and how much you care/want to correct it. If you can afford it and use these lenses often, then you probably will be better off biting the bullet.

[ic-racer]

So I have three wide angle lenses - a 65mm Nikon Nikkor-SW f/4, a 75mm Nikon Nikkor-SW f/4.5, and a 90mm Sinar Sinaron-W f/6.8. (I think all have a 67mm front attachment filter thread.)

Should I spend an extra $400 to get a center filter to help with vignetting, or can I take care of said vignetting with Photoshop?

If you guys do recommend a center filter, which one(s) would you recommend?

Many thanks!

I don't think you need complexity and expense of photoshop, during printing just burn the center with some cardboard.

[Dan Fromm]

Hmm. I wrote the article referred to in post #3 above.

OP, there's no fixed rule about which focal lengths absolutely need a CF and which can be used without one. The choice depends on the user's preferences. To find out what you can stand, shoot a distant landscape with each lens on reversal film. Color, b/w, makes no difference but it has to be reversal. Use no movements. This will tell you whether you can tolerate the lens' cos^4 falloff. Stop the lenses down at least 2 stops to eliminate mechanical vignetting. A CF won't reduce mechanical vignetting.

That said, the generally accepted nearly fixed rule for 4x5 is that 90 mm is the shortest focal length that can be used without a CF. Decentering movements increase the need for a CF.

Oh, yeah, about how bad cos^4 is, with no movements on 4x5 a 65 will give corners 2.44 stops down from the center; 75, 2.0; 90, 1.5.

[Doremus Scudder]

Short answer: If you shoot transparencies, definitely yes. It'll save a lot of headaches, time and probably money down the road.

If you're shooting negative film, well, then, maybe. With color neg and then scanning for printing, I would likely spring for the center filter. With black-and-white and wet printing, I'd likely not (I've always been able to adjust for the falloff when printing as long as I allow for additional exposure when the image is made).

As mentioned, you can likely get one filter that works with all the lenses (largest size, step up rings, etc.)

Best,

Doremus

[Bob Salomon]

Hi Bob,

I shoot both color negative and color transparency (Ektar, Portra 160/400, Provia, and Velvia, specifically).

I definitely see falloff with my 65mm Nikon Nikkor-SW f/4, especially when I’m shooting transparency. With my 90mm Sinar Sinaron-W f/6.8, the falloff is very slight, but still there. It’s bothersome, for sure.

I wouldn’t mind spending the time correcting the falloff on Photoshop, but I’m not sure what the best way is to this, or if editing on Photoshop would even look good.

I guess the real question is would spending $300+ on a center filter be worth it if I can solve it with Photoshop? Is it even possible to fix in Photoshop?

A cf is your answer.

[Drew Wiley]

You can't post-correct something that's not there to begin with. With even color neg film, falloff is related to not only a density difference, but potentially a hue shift toward the corners due to dye curve crossover. That can hypothetically be used for artificial creative effect, or it might constitute a visual annoyance and distraction. It's possible, with enough time and mental torture, to dub or paint or dither or fake in something missing using PS, but I wouldn't personally term that a correction. Things are so much easier with a filter on hand to begin with. In black and white imagery, some people like strong falloff toward the corners, some don't.

[Jim Andrada]

I use a center filter on my 90mm Super Angulon. But then again I mainly use it on 5 x 7. I use it on 4 x 5 as well because - well, it's already on the lens.

[manfrominternet]

You guys are all awesome. I appreciate all the suggestions and recommendations. Another member here recommended a great site where I can get used Heliopan center filters.

I was wondering if you guys have any suggestions of where I might be able to get Schneider or Rodenstock center filters, save for eBay where they cost a fortune.

[Dan Fromm]

Hmm. Bargains can sometimes be found. I have four Rodenstock and Schneider CFs, the most I've paid has been $225 plus postage. But bargains don't come along very often. Just get one of Igor's Heliopans.

[hiend61]

Your Nikkors 65 and 75mm would dramatically benefit from a center filter when you shot chromes. Any 67mm center filter with a 3X factor
(1,5 stops factor) will do a decent job, but a 4X filter (2 stops factor) will do a much better job in my opinion. You can use a 4x center filter even with your 90mm. I purchased most of my center filter brand new, but as Dan says, if you are patient, you can find some bargains. I found some 67mm samples from 150 to 225 EUR.
Of course, you can shot without center filter to emulate the effect o a GND filter, in my opinion, the effect is nicer.

[nguyenhm16]

You guys are all awesome. I appreciate all the suggestions and recommendations. Another member here recommended a great site where I can get used Heliopan center filters.

Can you share?

[Dan Fromm]

igorcamera.com

[Greg]

If you shoot a gray card with the lens focused at close to infinity (on axis with the GG) with whatever film you are using, you can create a mask in Photoshop to even off the illumination over the entire 4x5 format. Then apply this mask over the image file of your 4x5 Chrome. Theoretically this should completely even off the illumination over the whole image area, and yes it will do a good job at this, but you will be introducing "contrast distortion" (in lieu of a better term to use) into the tonalities. My guess is that if the film's response was in a perfectly straight line you maybe would not see this, but the film's response is in a curved line. Also if you employ any lens movements, your carefully created mask will not work. Years ago I just acquired a center ND filter and have never looked back. All that being said, when shooting B&W, I really prefer having the falloff. FYI: Many years ago I had to shoot 8x10 Chromes with my 120mm WA Nikkor. Now Nikon never made any center filters for their WA lenses (pretty sure on this but not 100%). I used a FUJI CENTER FILTER GX617 90mm ND-2X filter. I still use it for shooting 8x10 B&W negatives which will be printed as Platinum/Palladium prints.

[Alan Klein]

Why don't Nikon 90mm and Fujinon 75mm have their own center filters? Are their falloffs less than Schneider and Rodenstock 75mm and 90mm lenses?

[Alan Klein]

If you shoot a gray card with the lens focused at close to infinity (on axis with the GG) with whatever film you are using, you can create a mask in Photoshop to even off the illumination over the entire 4x5 format. Then apply this mask over the image file of your 4x5 Chrome. Theoretically this should completely even off the illumination over the whole image area, and yes it will do a good job at this, but you will be introducing "contrast distortion" (in lieu of a better term to use) into the tonalities. My guess is that if the film's response was in a perfectly straight line you maybe would not see this, but the film's response is in a curved line. Also if you employ any lens movements, your carefully created mask will not work. Years ago I just acquired a center ND filter and have never looked back. All that being said, when shooting B&W, I really prefer having the falloff. FYI: Many years ago I had to shoot 8x10 Chromes with my 120mm WA Nikkor. Now Nikon never made any center filters for their WA lenses (pretty sure on this but not 100%). I used a FUJI CENTER FILTER GX617 90mm ND-2X filter. I still use it for shooting 8x10 B&W negatives which will be printed as Platinum/Palladium prints.
Greg: If lens movements change falloffs with center filter masks, are there falloffs with regular lenses, let's say 150mm, if you use movements or for that matter when you use center filters on 75mm lenses?

[Dan Fromm]

Why don't Nikon 90mm and Fujinon 75mm have their own center filters? Are their falloffs less than Schneider and Rodenstock 75mm and 90mm lenses?

They are the same. cos^4(theta) works the same for nearly all lenses. For a very few lenses the exponent is somewhat less than 4, but the effect is still the same, just not quite as large.

[Dan Fromm]

Greg: If lens movements change falloffs with center filter masks, are there falloffs with regular lenses, let's say 150mm, if you use movements or for that matter when you use center filters on 75mm lenses?

PMFJI. Alan, movements increase the angle between the lens' axis and the edges and corners of the gate. The larger the angle, the worse the falloff. This is true for all lenses.

Center filters don't cause falloff, they approximately correct it by being denser at the center than at the edge.

[SergeyT]

The amount of light fall-off at the edges decreases with reduction in size of aperture. At F22-F32 it becomes almost non-existent or very easily correctable in PS by applying Curves masked with radial gradient. In any cases a slight light fall-off "helps" to the image. I have a center filter but almost never use it as in most cases my A is at F22-F32 and +2 stops filter factor is too high of a price for what it does.

[manfrominternet]

Hi all,

So I contacted Igor Camera regarding their Heliopan 67mm center filters. They have two in stock, but according to the person who I spoke with over the phone, the barrel on both copies is engraved as they are/were rental filters. I naturally asked if there were any scratches on the filters and was told that while there weren’t any major scratches, there may be some light scratches, which didn’t exactly reassure me.

So I’m back to my hunt for a 67mm Schneider III, Rodenstock E67/86, or Heliopan 67mm ND 3x center filter.

Can you guys point me to any other resources of where I might be able to find these LF unicorns (besides Craigslist and eBay)?

[Bob Salomon]

Hi all,

So I contacted Igor Camera regarding their Heliopan 67mm center filters. They have two in stock, but according to the person who I spoke with over the phone, the barrel on both copies is engraved as they are/were rental filters. I naturally asked if there were any scratches on the filters and was told that while there weren’t any major scratches, there may be some light scratches, which didn’t exactly reassure me.

So I’m back to my hunt for a 67mm Schneider III, Rodenstock E67/86, or Heliopan 67mm ND 3x center filter.

Can you guys point me to any other resources of where I might be able to find these LF unicorns (besides Craigslist and eBay)?

Did you ask Samy’s?

[Dan Fromm]

The amount of light fall-off at the edges decreases with reduction in size of aperture. At F22-F32 it becomes almost non-existent or very easily correctable in PS by applying Curves masked with radial gradient. In any cases a slight light fall-off "helps" to the image. I have a center filter but almost never use it as in most cases my A is at F22-F32 and +2 stops filter factor is too high of a price for what it does.

Which lens do you use it on?

Stopping down has no effect on cos^4. It does reduce mechanical vignetting, which is why Rodenstock and Schneider recommend that w/a lenses be stopped down at least two stops from wide open when a CF is attached. The CF can't offset the effects of mechanical vignetting.

[Alan Klein]

Which lens do you use it on?

Stopping down has no effect on cos^4. It does reduce mechanical vignetting, which is why Rodenstock and Schneider recommend that w/a lenses be stopped down at least two stops from wide open when a CF is attached. The CF can't offset the effects of mechanical vignetting.

What is mechanical vignetting as opposed to cos^4 vignetting? Why do Rodenstock and Schneider recommend that wide angle lenses be stopped down two stops when a CF is attached but not when it isn't attached? Wouldn't mechanical vignetting occur in both situations?

[Dan Fromm]

Alan, take out a lens. Any lens. Open its diaphragm completely. Hold the lens at arms length. Look through it. Straight through is. Rotate it slowly and watch what happens to the exit pupil. As you rotate it, the end of the barrel will begin to occlude it. The more you rotate it, the less of the exit pupil will be visible. That's mechanical vignetting.

Now stop the lens down at least two stops and repeat the exercise. You'll find that the lens can be rotated through a larger angle before the end of the barrel begins to occlude the exit pupil.

Now do you have the idea?

I can't read minds, have no idea why Rodenstock and Schneider don't recommend stopping down when not using a CF. They might have believed that thoughtful well-informed photographers would know what to do. But and however, there's not much benefit from shooting a w/a lens wide open with a CF attached since the CF can't put back what the end of the barrel took away.

Cos^4 is purely optical.

The only way to reduce mechanical vignetting is to stop down. If, that is, you have a lens that's been designed and built. Ross made some lenses engraved E.M.I. for Extra Marginal Illumination with oversize front and rear elements to reduce mechanical vignetting.

[Bob Salomon]

What is mechanical vignetting as opposed to cos^4 vignetting? Why do Rodenstock and Schneider recommend that wide angle lenses be stopped down two stops when a CF is attached but not when it isn't attached? Wouldn't mechanical vignetting occur in both situations?

The reason is that the center filter will not have any effect until you stop down at least two stops.

[manfrominternet]

Did you ask Samy’s?

Believe it or not, I was at the main Samy’s branch (on Fairfax Ave.) and asked them about it two weeks ago. I was asked to leave my contact number and that someone should contact me shortly, either if they have one in their used department or if they can order one.

As they haven’t yet called, I just called them now to get a status update and was told that these center filters come around once in a blue moon. The person I was speaking with said that she doesn’t even remember the last time she saw a stand-alone center filter.

Guess these things really are LF unicorns... :(

[Dan Fromm]

... these center filters come around once in a blue moon. The person I was speaking with said that she doesn’t even remember the last time she saw a stand-alone center filter.

Guess these things really are LF unicorns... :(

Hmm. I have a Schneider CF III, paid <$200 for it delivered. No scratches. Finding it took a while. You have to be patient.

If I were you, I'd buy one of Igor's filters with the right of return. Ask him if he'll do that.

[Drew Wiley]

Exactly what Dan said. Most of these designs are quite similar. And the amount of falloff is equivalent between the competing lenses of these different brands, sometimes applying even to slightly different focal lengths. For example, I found that the same Schneider 82mm thread CF specified for their 120 Super Angulon, and which I used on that lens, also worked perfectly for the Nikkor 90/4.5 SW.

[Alan Klein]

Alan, take out a lens. Any lens. Open its diaphragm completely. Hold the lens at arms length. Look through it. Straight through is. Rotate it slowly and watch what happens to the exit pupil. As you rotate it, the end of the barrel will begin to occlude it. The more you rotate it, the less of the exit pupil will be visible. That's mechanical vignetting.

Now stop the lens down at least two stops and repeat the exercise. You'll find that the lens can be rotated through a larger angle before the end of the barrel begins to occlude the exit pupil.

Now do you have the idea?

I can't read minds, have no idea why Rodenstock and Schneider don't recommend stopping down when not using a CF. They might have believed that thoughtful well-informed photographers would know what to do. But and however, there's not much benefit from shooting a w/a lens wide open with a CF attached since the CF can't put back what the end of the barrel took away.

Cos^4 is purely optical.

The only way to reduce mechanical vignetting is to stop down. If, that is, you have a lens that's been designed and built. Ross made some lenses engraved E.M.I. for Extra Marginal Illumination with oversize front and rear elements to reduce mechanical vignetting.


The reason is that the center filter will not have any effect until you stop down at least two stops.

Thanks for the explanation. I think I got it. So the CF extends the length of the lens barrel so it starts to physically vignette when the aperture is fully open, especially with wide angle lenses. So you stop down at least two stops from fully open to eliminate the vignette. Separately from that, if you're using movements, whether with a CF or without, you may reach a point that you start to mechanically vignette. So you can stop down further to eliminate the vignetting.

[manfrominternet]

Dan, where on earth were you able to get a Schneider CF III for less than $200?! That's amazing!

By the way, I read your article on center filters from front to back. Thank you so much for writing it. It's indispensable to us in the LF community, and I'm certain that I'm not alone in saying this.

Another member here (hiend61) said: "Your Nikkors 65 and 75mm would dramatically benefit from a center filter when you shot chromes. Any 67mm center filter with a 3X factor
(1,5 stops factor) will do a decent job, but a 4X filter (2 stops factor) will do a much better job in my opinion. You can use a 4x center filter even with your 90mm."

Is that true? Do you think that a 4X filter (2 stops factor), instead of a 3X factor (1,5 stops factor), would be a better option for my 65mm/75mm Nikkors and 90mm Sinaron-W f/6.8?

[Dan Fromm]

Thanks for the explanation. I think I got it. So the CF extends the length of the lens barrel so it starts to physically vignette when the aperture is fully open, especially with wide angle lenses. So you stop down at least two stops from fully open to eliminate the vignette. Separately from that, if you're using movements, whether with a CF or without, you may reach a point that you start to mechanically vignette. So you can stop down further to eliminate the vignetting.

You didn't get it at all. The CF does nothing to, by, for, against or with mechanical vignetting. It is denser in the center than at the edge, transmits relatively less light to the center of the image than to the edges. This offsets cos^4.

But yes, stopping down reduces, sometimes eliminates, mechanical vignetting.

Stop theorizing, start taking test shots.

[Dan Fromm]

Is that true? Do you think that a 4X filter (2 stops factor), instead of a 3X factor (1,5 stops factor), would be a better option for my 65mm/75mm Nikkors and 90mm Sinaron-W f/6.8?

Thanks for the kind word. About using a stronger CF than recommended, try it and see whether you like the effect.

FWIW, I bought that #III because I wasn't comfortable with the idea of using my Rodenstock 2.5x E67/86 (original CF for all three Apo-Grandagons) on my 58/5.6 Grandagon when shooting 6x12. But I never tried the 2.5x on the 58, really should do it.

Side point re the kind word. I was motivated to write the CF piece partly by calculations I did when writing my Horseman Exposure Meter article and partly because I was tired of questions about which CF for a Fuji/Nikon w/a lens. With the calculations in mind, I think it would be better to meter TTL than with a hand held meter when using a stronger than recommended CF.

[hiend61]

Dan, where on earth were you able to get a Schneider CF III for less than $200?! That's amazing!

By the way, I read your article on center filters from front to back. Thank you so much for writing it. It's indispensable to us in the LF community, and I'm certain that I'm not alone in saying this.

Another member here (hiend61) said: "Your Nikkors 65 and 75mm would dramatically benefit from a center filter when you shot chromes. Any 67mm center filter with a 3X factor
(1,5 stops factor) will do a decent job, but a 4X filter (2 stops factor) will do a much better job in my opinion. You can use a 4x center filter even with your 90mm."

Is that true? Do you think that a 4X filter (2 stops factor), instead of a 3X factor (1,5 stops factor), would be a better option for my 65mm/75mm Nikkors and 90mm Sinaron-W f/6.8?

As Dan and other members of the forum have stated, Center filters are necessary when shootting chromes with wide angle lenses. The recommended factor of the centerfilter for a certain lens provides good results, but I have found that to my personal taste a filter with a higher factor than recommended produces more even results specially when the shift limits are reached. Nikkor SW 65mm and 75mm lenses have image circles of 170 and 200mm respectively, and in many occasions I find myself reaching the shift limits in 4x5. If the picture includes sky, I find 3x filter good enough, but if the picture is filled with an evenly illuminated surface such as the facade of a building, then I definitely prefer the 4x factor filter, but it´s my personal taste. No one will be wrong following Dan´s recommendations for center filters. Excellent job Dan.

[manfrominternet]

As Dan and other members of the forum have stated, Center filters are necessary when shootting chromes with wide angle lenses. The recommended factor of the centerfilter for a certain lens provides good results, but I have found that to my personal taste a filter with a higher factor than recommended produces more even results specially when the shift limits are reached. Nikkor SW 65mm and 75mm lenses have image circles of 170 and 200mm respectively, and in many occasions I find myself reaching the shift limits in 4x5. If the picture includes sky, I find 3x filter good enough, but if the picture is filled with an evenly illuminated surface such as the facade of a building, then I definitely prefer the 4x factor filter, but it´s my personal taste. No one will be wrong following Dan´s recommendations for center filters. Excellent job Dan.

Many thanks for clarifying this, I really appreciate it! I may actually want to try a 4x center filter, given what you’ve said. I do shoot a lot of architecture and landscape, so having an even result across the frame is essential to me.

I’m still having a hard time finding a center filter. Apparently Igor Camera won’t accept returns for items like center filters, so I’m very hesitant to buy their Heliopan 67mm E67/86 center filter, especially since their particular one is engraved and was acquired from a rental house (making me think it’s scratched and beat up).

Are there any other camera shops you guys would recommend?

[Bob Salomon]

Many thanks for clarifying this, I really appreciate it! I may actually want to try a 4x center filter, given what you’ve said. I do shoot a lot of architecture and landscape, so having an even result across the frame is essential to me.

I’m still having a hard time finding a center filter. Apparently Igor Camera won’t accept returns for items like center filters, so I’m very hesitant to buy their Heliopan 67mm E67/86 center filter, especially since their particular one is engraved and was acquired from a rental house (making me think it’s scratched and beat up).

Are there any other camera shops you guys would recommend?

Rental centers usually kept better care of their equipment then sole owners. The terms of their rental contract made the renter liable for damage and all equipment was inspected and cleaned before going out and upon coming back in. Damaged or heavily used items were sold off and taken out of rental stock.

[manfrominternet]

Rental centers usually kept better care of their equipment then sole owners. The terms of their rental contract made the renter liable for damage and all equipment was inspected and cleaned before going out and upon coming back in. Damaged or heavily used items were sold off and taken out of rental stock.

Ah, I didn’t know this. At the same time, however, could it be possible that the engraved center filters from said camera reseller store are the damaged or heavily used ones purchased from a rental center?

[Bob Salomon]

Ah, I didn’t know this. At the same time, however, could it be possible that the engraved center filters from said camera reseller store are the damaged or heavily used ones purchased from a rental center?

Very doubtful. A renter pays for mistreatment.

[manfrominternet]

So, after waiting for a hapless few weeks, I pounced on a flawless Rodenstock E67/86 center filter that was packaged with a 75mm Sinaron-W f/4.5.

My next question is: can I put a thin UV filter (B+W XS Pro MRC-Nano Digital, specifically) in between the Rodenstock center filter and either my 65mm Nikon or 75mm Sinaron-W?

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about: 208772

I ask because, since I have only one center filter to share among my three wide angle lenses (65mm, 75mm, 90mm), I'd like to at least keep a thin UV filter on them when the lens cap is off for protection.

[hiend61]

So, after waiting for a hapless few weeks, I pounced on a flawless Rodenstock E67/86 center filter that was packaged with a 75mm Sinaron-W f/4.5.

My next question is: can I put a thin UV filter (B+W XS Pro MRC-Nano Digital, specifically) in between the Rodenstock center filter and either my 65mm Nikon or 75mm Sinaron-W?

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about: 208772

I ask because, since I have only one center filter to share among my three wide angle lenses (65mm, 75mm, 90mm), I'd like to at least keep a thin UV filter on them when the lens cap is off for protection.

I do not reccomend you to ad an UV filter, no matter it´s one of superb quality, between lens and center filter. I´m sure most members of this forum do not use UV filters for protection. The filter will alter the distance between the lens and center filter glass, making the center filter work in a different way. If you want protection because of harsh or not much friendly environments, use the UV filter over the center filter, but use a bigger one with a steep up adapter in order to avoid vigneting problems. In this case I would suggest a 86-95 or better an 86-105 steep up adapter and a 95 or 105mm UV filter.

[Two23]

I never use a UV filter and have never had a lens damaged in 40 years. I am an outdoor photographer and photo in all the conditions the Northern Plains can dish out. I do use lens caps routinely.


Kent in SD

[Drew Wiley]

I use UV filters when I need to filter UV! My own experience with CF's is that an intermediate filter works just fine, whether a contrast filter for black and white work, or a corrective filter relative to color temp issues. Any hypothetical vignetting becomes a non-issue once the lens is stopped down to typical large format working apertures. BUT I've never owned very short WA lenses like 75 or 65, with small images circles which might be less forgiving in that respect. And with the big Schneider 120 Super Angulon, you have to use either a typical filter or thin spacer ring between the CF and lens, or the inner surface of the CF will actually rub against the bulging front element of the lens! There might similar cases as well.

[Alan Klein]

What if you want to add a polarizer or grad ND filter?

[manfrominternet]

Hmm, so is the consensus on this forum to not use a UV filter in between the lens and center filter? (If I'm reading what Drew said correctly, it should, however, be fine to do this for non-wide angle lenses.)

If that's the case, I apparently can't leave a UV filter on my lens to protect it. That said, what kind of lens cap or lens protection would you guys recommend?

[Alan Klein]

I use Sensei lens caps. Of course, get the sizes you need. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/806450-REG/Sensei_lc77_77mm_Center_Pinch_Snap_On.html

I also stick these holders onto the cap so it stays with the lens. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/834774-REG/Sensei_CK_L_Cap_Keeper_for_Lens.html

If you need a step-up adapter, I use these. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1026573-REG/sensei_surp_6777_pro_67_77mm_brass_step_up.html
Of course, get the sizes you need.

[manfrominternet]

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I also stick these holders onto the cap so it stays with the lens. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/834774-REG/Sensei_CK_L_Cap_Keeper_for_Lens.html


Ha! I use these religiously. They're on every lens I own.

[Alan Klein]

Ha! I use these religiously. They're on every lens I own.

I wish I could figure out how to use them for the back cap. :) Hmmm. Maybe, I could just add another one to each lens with the elastic holding band in front. But then, I'll have two caps hanging off the lens in use. Might work.

[Dan Fromm]

So, after waiting for a hapless few weeks, I pounced on a flawless Rodenstock E67/86 center filter that was packaged with a 75mm Sinaron-W f/4.5.

My next question is: can I put a thin UV filter (B+W XS Pro MRC-Nano Digital, specifically) in between the Rodenstock center filter and either my 65mm Nikon or 75mm Sinaron-W?

Here's a picture of what I'm talking about: 208772

I ask because, since I have only one center filter to share among my three wide angle lenses (65mm, 75mm, 90mm), I'd like to at least keep a thin UV filter on them when the lens cap is off for protection.

What a silly. You have the UV filter, you have the CF and you have the lenses. Why don't you just ask them whether they'll work well enough together.

Y'know, the front of the CF's diameter is 86 mm. There's a reason for this.