8x10 Wide Angle Lenses for Still Life

[jurgenestanislao]

Hello wanted to seek opinions on using wide angle lenses for still life photography (210-240mm focal lengths).

Do they work well? Pros and cons? Please do share recommendations and sample images—would really appreciate it.

For reference I am using an 8x10 Deardorff and an 8x10 Cambo SCX. Attached a sample photo of the platinum images I make.

Thanks! https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200912/6bccc831f224f529e53e34222b39ff07.jpg

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[Ari]

The problem with many 210s is adequate coverage. Unless you spend $4K on a 210XL, you won't get too much from a lens in terms of movements on 8x10.
If you don't need movements, then the number of usable 210mm lenses increases.
For 5-6 years, I've been using a Computar 210 f/9 (currently for sale!) which is contrasty, very sharp and has ample coverage for 8x10.
Before that I had a Fuji 210, which has enough to cover 8x10 with moderate movements. It was great as a 4x5 lens, but seemed to suffer in image quality on 8x10.
Not as wide, but better on 8x10, is the Fuji 250mm f/6.7.
For still life, any of these lenses will work, but the Computar and Fuji 250 were, for me, better than most other lenses.

[Mark Sawyer]

At close distances with extended bellows, coverage expands greatly. A lens that just covers 4x5 at infinity will cover 8x10 at 1:1.

In my experience, very wide angle lenses perform pretty poorly at very close distances. A 210mm process lens would fit your needs very well, and fine examples can be had for under $100. Edward Weston's close up lens for his peppers, other vegetables, and seashells was a 210mm Zeiss Tessar. Those regularly go for well under $100 too, if you like the history behind it, but the process lenses would outperform it.

[jurgenestanislao]

The problem with many 210s is adequate coverage. Unless you spend $4K on a 210XL, you won't get too much from a lens in terms of movements on 8x10.
If you don't need movements, then the number of usable 210mm lenses increases.
For 5-6 years, I've been using a Computar 210 f/9 (currently for sale!) which is contrasty, very sharp and has ample coverage for 8x10.
Before that I had a Fuji 210, which has enough to cover 8x10 with moderate movements. It was great as a 4x5 lens, but seemed to suffer in image quality on 8x10.
Not as wide, but better on 8x10, is the Fuji 250mm f/6.7.
For still life, any of these lenses will work, but the Computar and Fuji 250 were, for me, better than most other lenses.Would you be able to share sample images that you took with these lenses?

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[Luis-F-S]

Why not make your life simple and get a 210 G-Claron. Designed for 1:1, usable up to infinity and in a modern shutter. Lots of coverage esp in close range. Inexpensive and readily available and if you don't like it, sell it! Luis

[paulbarden]

This 8x10 inch tintype was made using a Schneider 240mm Symmar-S lens at a distance of about 14” from the seed pods, resulting in an image slightly better than 1:1

https://flic.kr/p/23crBT8

[Ari]

Would you be able to share sample images that you took with these lenses?

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Sure: https://flic.kr/s/aHsmQHDen3

Some good advice here, especially about using some cheaper lenses to get the job done.
Some testing will have to be done to compare a process lens, like the Computar or G-Claron, with a regular lens like the Symmar or the Tessar.

[Bob Salomon]

210mm Apo Sironar/Apo Sironar W easily covers 810 with movements at infinity and since it is not a WA design does not need a center filter.

[Dan Fromm]

210mm Apo Sironar/Apo Sironar W easily covers 810 with movements at infinity and since it is not a WA design does not need a center filter.

With a 210 mm lens at infinity on 8x10 and no movements, subject at infinity, illumination in the corners will be 1.2 stops down from illumination in the center. Closer up it won't be down as much because the angle covered is narrower. This is independent of the lens' coverage at infinity. An unshifted untilted 210 w/a lens doesn't need a CF on 8x10.

[Mark Sawyer]

210mm Apo Sironar/Apo Sironar W easily covers 810 with movements at infinity and since it is not a WA design does not need a center filter.

At these bellows extensions on this format, the center filters aren't necessary. They're only needed when the center of the lens is significantly closer to the center of the image than the corners.

[Bob Salomon]

At these bellows extensions on this format, the center filters aren't necessary. They're only needed when the center of the lens is significantly closer to the center of the image than the corners.

Or you make movements.

[ic-racer]

Hello wanted to seek opinions on using wide angle lenses for still life photography (210-240mm focal lengths). ...

What is wrong with the lens used for that image. Do you want to include more of the background with a wider angle of view or do you just want to be closer to the subject so the plume of the bird is larger with respect to the body?

[jurgenestanislao]

What is wrong with the lens used for that image. Do you want to include more of the background with a wider angle of view or do you just want to be closer to the subject so the plume of the bird is larger with respect to the body?Essentially to better maximise bellows draw and magnification—though I am not sure if there will be any distortions caused by using a wide angle lens as I've never had one for LF.

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[Kevin Crisp]

210 or 240 G Claron.

[Bob Salomon]

Essentially to better maximise bellows draw and magnification—though I am not sure if there will be any distortions caused by using a wide angle lens as I've never had one for LF.

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You will get the same foreshortening on large format as you get on any other format with a short lens. Those things closer to the lens will reproduce larger then things further from the lens. That isn’t distortion, it’s optics.

[jurgenestanislao]

You will get the same foreshortening on large format as you get on any other format with a short lens. Those things closer to the lens will reproduce larger then things further from the lens. That isn’t distortion, it’s optics.So theoretically wanting to make things bigger with bellows draw + a shorter focal length should work yeah? 1.5-2:1?

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[Oslolens]

Sorry, no images from the 210mm Nikkor-W, shutterless Apo-Gerogon and the Macro-Sironar-N, but still a little comparison on the mm-scale on metal at the bottom of this album https://www.flickr.com/photos/47052585@N06/albums/72157634939838558

[Bob Salomon]

Not well. You would be better off with a 120, 180 Apo Macro Sironar for 1:5 to 5:1 or the older 210 or 300 Makro Sironar corrected for 1:3 to 3:1.

[ic-racer]

Essentially to better maximise bellows draw and magnification—though I am not sure if there will be any distortions caused by using a wide angle lens as I've never had one for LF.

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Less bellows draw can lead to less shake and it can be easier to work. In that case, just about any 210mm lens should work on 8x10 in close range. As you know the image circle increases with magnification. Do you have a 210mm in your 4x5 kit?

[Vaughn]

I use a little Wollinsak Graphic Raptar, 210/6.8. Covers with movements at infinity, and would do nicely for close-up work. Barrel -- I do not know if anyone has put one in a shutter.

https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?123854-210mm-(8-1-4-quot-)-f6-8-Wide-Field-Raptar-Lens/page2

[Bernice Loui]

Image circle grows as the image circle moves towards 1 to 1 or life size. Essentially most any 210mm lens will cover 8x10 once the image on the ground glass-film is about equal to the object being photographed.

More significant consideration would be lighting, taking aperture, bellows extension, camera stability lighting and all those "other" factors.

Image taking aperture becomes a factor as once past f32-f45, the differences among LD lenses increasingly diminishes due to diffraction. Film flatness also becomes another serious issues as most table top-still life images involves some downward pointing of the VC to the objects being photographed. This can have a great tendency to move the film in holder out rather than flat inside the film holder.

Many of these problem are easier by going down in film or imager size.


Bernice

[unityofsaints]

I've been happy with the results from my Fujinon 210 (latest multicoated version). The results are as good as at infinity to my eye.

[jurgenestanislao]

Thanks for all the responses and samples. Still continuing my research.

[jurgenestanislao]

This 8x10 inch tintype was made using a Schneider 240mm Symmar-S lens at a distance of about 14” from the seed pods, resulting in an image slightly better than 1:1

https://flic.kr/p/23crBT8

Beautiful.

[paulbarden]

Beautiful.

Thank you!