Tetenal Colortec C-41 Developing Kit

[PatrickMarq]

I would like to start develop my color negative films, never done this before.

Did my research with Tetenal because my store sells this. There is one thing that's not clear for me: how long can I reuse the solution, the values I have found are for 135 rolls.

So I have a Paterson sp-445 tank = 750ml
For the first four rolls, the development time is 8 minutes. This increases with one minute with the next four rolls ....
Could I safely say that 4 rolls = 4 sheets ?

At this time I have at least 2 roll 120mm and 16 sheet film

I know you can keep the solution for several weeks if preserved correctly, but with each development the strength will be less hense the longer development time.
But when do you need it to throw away, not when you see your negatives are bad ...

So still a bit confused.

[Corran]

One roll of 35mm = 4 sheets of 4x5 (or 1 sheet of 8x10).

Are you sure the development time is 8 minutes? C-41 is usually 3:15 or 3:30 depending on instructions/kit.

I use mine past its lifespan just fine. I add time as I go along by feel / experience until I think it's exhausted beyond use. Yes, it's bit me in the ass once or twice. Such is life - if I have a super-important shot I use fresh.

It's also possible to dilute and use one-shot with some testing. I used to do that when I first started as I would only shoot/develop one or two sheets of C-41 very occasionally.

[PatrickMarq]

Corran, the time is correct for 86° 3:30 is for 100°

[Corran]

Ah I see, I always develop at 100 degrees.

[Duolab123]

Tetenal spells out capacities in their instructions. They have extended use instructions if you are willing to live with less than perfect results. For me I wouldn't try to develop more than 8 rolls per liter.
This is why I buy the Kodak Flexicolor chemistry. It's so cheap for the Developer something like 15 dollars for 5 L of replenisher which yields something like 6 liters of "tank solution " ready to use developer. If you are using small tanks you can even replenish (I use 1 shot on a Jobo)

[PatrickMarq]

205811
This is the result of my first c-41 development.
I had to do some color adaptions what I normally never do when the negative come back from the lab, also on the right upper corner some blue...
At the end, I’m happy this will save some $$

[Corran]

You may just need to BLIX it a bit more. That's usually the problem if you have some discoloration like that. You can put the film in the BLIX for much longer than the instructions state with no issues.

[PatrickMarq]

205876
My second batch, develop time 9 min and Blix 9:30 instead of 8:0min.
The blue cast was easy to remove in Lightroom but still.
Anyone some advice ?

[Corran]

I've noticed if I try to "push" color film in home C-41 the blue "channel" is much too strong.

I think you are overdeveloping the film considering your scan. Either that or your cold development is causing it.

[PatrickMarq]

205884
Corran, thank you for all feedback. Today I have noticed that the Blix was to cold.
As I use my kitchen sink for heating, I took out the Blix at the same time as the developer. So perhaps this could be it.

[Corran]

That looks better. So the others may be under-BLIX'd. Put them back in the BLIX for a little bit and re-scan and let us know. It won't hurt them.

[PatrickMarq]

205906
Yes it worked, above polarisation filter
205907
Polarisation filter and Lee six stops
Also I have taken an extra 15 sec away when developing, the time needed for pouring out the developer.
Thanks for everything Corran

[koraks]

205884
This one looks OK (maybe overall a bit yellow, but I see no very apparent crossover).



205906

205907

But here you seem to have some very serious magenta/green crossover issues. It might be due to the scan, digital post processing, development, or just the influence of the filters used (they're never truly neutral and polarizers in particular are often quite poor in terms of color fidelity) - or a combination thereof.

So looks like you're getting somewhere but you're not there just yet.

[PatrickMarq]

Koraks, it’s the filters. With digital I can control it.
It was just a test to see if I could change the green/blue of the filters and as the daylight is into the film I was almost convinced that this would be a bad choice.
The ‘real’ pictures where all made in black/white delta 100 and they are perfect, shall post them in ‘At the waterfront’