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MichaelGJ47
3-Jul-2020, 09:06
G'Day All
I recently came across several boxes of old unopened 4x5 film and paper.This was in a studio that was going out of business ,many years ago they went from 4x5 to medium format and this stuff has sat for about 25 years in a store room ,the room was kept at 20 deg (68F) .I am fairly sure the paper might have a cast but am wondering about the film.Is there chance of using it by overexposing it or maybe overdeveloping it? Anyone have any suggestions, the Ilford film has no date but the staff tell me they stopped using 4X5 in about 1990.The paper is Agfa I am not sure what to do with it
Thanks

koraks
3-Jul-2020, 09:11
Depends a bit on what film and paper it is. I assume for the film it's B&W. You mention Ilford, which makes either FP4 or HP5 the most likely candidates. Not sure if the + variants already existed back in 1990. Either way, if it's 400 speed, it will be ridiculously foggy. You'll get an image for sure, but you will probably have to go down to EI 50 or even 25 to get good results - but YMMV. If it's 125 speed, then it'll likely work OK at something around 25 or 50 as well. So in your place, I'd probably load a sheet, shoot it at 50, develop it normally (for its native speed) and see what comes out.

As to the paper, if it's fiber based, then it might be just fine. I use Agfa FB paper from the same era from time to time and it seems to do perfectly well - no fog etc. If it's RC paper, you might as well toss it.

MichaelGJ47
3-Jul-2020, 09:23
Yes it is Ilford 125 I will try it at 50 and see what happens and the paper is fiber based so maybe I will get something out of that..The 5 boxes of film and 3 boxes of paper cost me $20.00 so nothing to lose .Thanks for the info that is what aI was looking for ,a starting point
Michael

rjbuzzclick
3-Jul-2020, 15:13
You also may find that you need to increase development too. Definitely worth trying it out. I suspect your film will be fine.

MichaelGJ47
3-Jul-2020, 20:22
Hope so

j.e.simmons
4-Jul-2020, 03:08
I’m currently shooting a box of Kodak Plus X from about 1990 that was kept at room temperature in Florida. I shoot it at 100 rather than the rated 125 and develop in my regular Pyrocat HD. The film works like new. You may find you don’t have to make much in the way of adjustment.

John Layton
5-Jul-2020, 05:32
A few boxes of 11x14, dated 6/88, left in a hot (during the summer) attic, in the mid 1990's after I lost interest in that format. Two years ago I regained interest (sort of) and tried it out with some really old, dark, super-syrupy HC-110...and to my great surprise its - ok...as in, not exactly like new, but useable with a bit of base fog (which is sometimes desirable). At any rate...always worth a try!

MultiFormat Shooter
5-Jul-2020, 06:13
I shot a 35mm roll of Kodak Plus-X (also a 125 speed film) that expired in 1958 (!) that came-out just fine. I increased the exposure, but had the lab process it normally. I would definitely give your film a try. As others have said, you may well be pleasantly surprised!

MichaelGJ47
5-Jul-2020, 09:16
Well Thanks guys ,I am going to try it out today at different asa settings and regular development and go from there.

ghostcount
7-Jul-2020, 16:16
Well Thanks guys ,I am going to try it out today at different asa settings and regular development and go from there.

Just curious what was your result.

MichaelGJ47
7-Jul-2020, 17:25
Well I just shot the Ilford 125 at 100 and the negs look good I have not yet finished the dark room so I can not print but they look good I took some at 80 ASA of, same subjects, same light but have not yet developed them ,that will be this week sometime.

Michael Kadillak
7-Jul-2020, 19:19
I acquired a box of Pan x 32 ASA 5x7 sheet film that expired in 1966 and it measured a FB+F of 0.4 to 0.45, not bad for a film that is 54 years out of date. Looking at the negative it is clearly still worthy of making a fine print. An exhibited film curve that continues to the upside unencumbered surely helps. Rule of thumb. Lower ASA rated sheet film is far less susceptible of degradation. I have a lot of Efke 25 in 11x14 (ASA 25) that processes as it was new and it is 10 years old.

Rod Klukas
16-Jul-2020, 10:57
You should try to find either some liquid Orthazite or some benzotriazol Anti_Fog. On the liquid Orthazite about 1 oz per quart or litter of working development solution. I have used this with success on old film and paper. I was even able to salvage images from a crime scene of a burned body on the floor of a burned building on infrared film with decent contrast some years ago. Benzotriazole Anti-Fog was a Kodak product, but I think you can still obtain the chemistry to make this up. B&H seems to have a 4oz quantity for about $5.00.

Hope this helps.

MichaelGJ47
22-Aug-2020, 09:03
finally got some and look forward to using it
thanks

unityofsaints
28-Aug-2020, 18:08
I just shot some FP4 (non-plus) in 35mm at 25 ISO and pushed it 1 stop in Rodinal 1+25 - the results look the same as fresh film (to me). This stuff expired some time in the 80s so similar to yours but bigger film formats should have more tolerance to expiry as grain is less noticeable so if anything you should get better results. I still have to shoot a roll of HP5 from the same lot, there I expect to be disappointed.

Talking about it having no date on it - mine didn't either but you can check the wikipedia page to find out when each of the emulsions stopped being made to get a rough idea:

FP: 1935 - 1939
FP2: 1939 - 1942
FP3: 1942 - 1968
FP4: 1968 - 1990
FP4+: 1990 - present

HP -> HP5+ is similar.

MichaelGJ47
1-Sep-2020, 19:42
Yes my negs also look good and I will be printing in the darkroom as soon as I can figure a reasonable way to control the water temp going into the sink I am making.

Jojje
2-Sep-2020, 10:44
I've managed to get good results from quite old Ilford film: from 1940's. Kodak doesn't age that well in my experience. Newer Agfa papers are probably useless, some of the older might be useful. I've had success with 1970-80's Brovira and Portriga.

Drew Wiley
2-Sep-2020, 11:49
It's misleading to make generic statements. An awful lot depends on the climate, actual storage conditions, specific product etc.

Tin Can
2-Sep-2020, 12:34
Perhaps somebody can explain exactly how THEY use this exact product, Photographers' Formulary Benzotriazole (Anti-Fog #1) - 10g (https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/123748-REG/Photographers_Formulary_10_0250_10G_Benzotriazole_Anti_Fog_1.html/?ap=y&ap=y&smp=y&smp=y&lsft=BI%3A514&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhb36BRCfARIsAKcXh6Hkpwx3z9Ewe2vTLekDONwGvEMXUyU8APXvm8Z0P0ffcvKpBT4Qni4aAk8cEALw_wcB)

I am shooting very old Dry Plates and this Ilford Special Portrait 5X7

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50298324963_87e0e7cb8c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jCG4Dn)Ilford Special Portrait 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2jCG4Dn) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50299007481_670519dab6_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jCKywV)Ilford Special Portrait 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2jCKywV) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr