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Ulophot
6-May-2020, 14:06
Well, the good news, is that my question is not the same as it was fifteen minutes ago; the bad news, is that the previous one suggests persistent problems in my cognitive functioning. (Those needing a chuckle may have one at my expense; see below.)

In any case, my 1960s or '70s Omega D2 baseboard is slightly bowed, perhaps a mm or so lower at the center than the sides, evident when I lay the edge of a 24" steel ruler across it. My Saunders 14x17 easel remains pretty close to flat, as far as I can tell. The base board is pretty scratched up, and I have thought of refinishing it anyway.

I am not a builder, not a "shop guy" with lots of power tools and basic skills. The baseboard is made of solid wood "planks" glued together, not plywood. Top and bottom have veneer, maybe 1/16th- or 3/32-inch thick. I know there are planing machines that practically sand a board in seconds, even though it's planing; I saw one once at a furniture-making shop. Would getting the top planed this way be a better option than trying to self-even the baseboard with several coats of polyurethane or something (if that would work)? Assuming I can find a place to do it, is it likely to be expensive? Is the accuracy of such machines suitable?

For those needing a chuckle:

After perusing a number of threads on enlarger alignment today, I thought I'd check mine again, one of the cheap ways. No laser, no Peak, etc.; never could justify cost for either nor develop skills for DIY'ing the former. Aware of the baseboard bowing, I used my Microsight magnifier on the easel with the adjustable-blade insert removed, to check to the limits of its coverage outwards from the center, focusing on marks had made on a sheet of glass with a Sharpie years ago for this purpose, with the glass laid on the neg stage. I was distressed to find that the center was significantly out of focus when the sides were sharp. I checked repeatedly, beginning to wonder if my Schneider Componon, CLA'd just last year, could be the cause.

I came downstairs to start a thread with a question about it, then realized something and went to recheck. Sure enough, the center was focusing closer than the sides! Huh?? I returned to writing my question with this confusion, when another thought occurred. Perhaps I had put the side of the glass with the marks on top, and the light refraction through the glass toward the edges was causing the focus-shift. Back in the darkroom, I checked the glass with my 6x glasses. Oh. Duh.

The marks on the glass consisted of dots and the number 2. The dots were at the center and corners, the 2s were out toward the side edges. I had used the center dot and the 2s for focus, since the edge/corner dots were too far out. Examination revealed that the dots were indeed on the glass top side, while the 2s -- yup. On the bottom. I must have marked the glass at two different times. Once corrected, I found the alignment was actually pretty good.

Well, at least I discovered my error, right?

Drew Wiley
6-May-2020, 15:51
Oh my. You can always shim your easel for level, even with a warped base. But I would just totally replace the base. Since you don't have the skills to make a new one yourself, you could just go to a large art store and purchase a pre-laminated small drafting table replacement top, and remount your enlarger to that. They aren't expensive. Or perhaps a cabinet shop has a cutout or leftover piece of laminated countertop materials they'll give you cheaply. Lots of slightly marred countertops get outright thrown away. But a drafting board replacement will have already finished edges, so will be less work overall.

LabRat
6-May-2020, 16:35
The area of concern would be to imagine a triangle with the apex at the column base, and the V expanding where your common easels sit...

If there is a uniform curve or wave, that is workable, but if there is a twist or potato chip shape, it needs replacement...

Refinishing is risky using water based finishes, as the moisture can cause local swelling, but a laminate with solvent based adhesive can be OK...

Any wave or depression tolerance should be better than 1/64" or better...

And no easels should rock at all...

Steve K

ic-racer
6-May-2020, 17:32
One of my Omega D5500 enlargers had a non-original baseboard and I was able to find an original on e-bay a few years ago. The original one is much better, being 1.5" thick. The home-made one was much thinner, maybe came from a big-box store. It was inadequate and caused the column to wobble.

In your case, D2 baseboards are also available last I checked:

203546

Gary Beasley
6-May-2020, 18:37
You can buy laminated mdf from Home Depot and other places thats extremely flat, has no grain to cause warping. Be sure the laminate is on both sides so it doesnt absorb moisture. Might even want to seal the cut edges as well but I doubt it would make a big difference.

Paul Ron
7-May-2020, 06:04
use mdo, its water proof and very flat, doesnt need lasminating, just a coat or two od matt varnish.

using your grain magnifyer will always show its off at the edges because its designed to be used in the center of the image for accuracy

Robert Bowring
7-May-2020, 07:29
When I got my Omega DII the baseboard was shot too. I just bolted the enlarger onto the counter top. I made sure the countertop was level first. The counter top is heavy and stable and works fine as a replacement for the baseboard.

Bob Wagner
7-May-2020, 07:34
I second Gary B's suggestion. I've had exactly that for 10 years, still dead flat

Ulophot
7-May-2020, 08:25
The direct bolt to the countertop is great for those who can use it. I'd love to have such a set-up. My enlarging table was built from second-hand angle iron in the 1970s with heavy mdf inset in the top, which I have painted with polyurethane. It's been disassembled and reassembled a half-dozen times as I changes addresses. I have done well by it, despite it's crudity of finish. I had an identical table for my printing wet "side" for about 30 years before I could afford a darkroom sink. Getting the sink was like going to heaven.

Gary Beasley
7-May-2020, 10:08
If your table doesnt have leveling feet and want to bolt directly to it try to find a way to make it level. If its out of level in one direction or another that can introduce focusing errors. A large carpenters level on top will do the job, check it in several directions as you adjust it level.

MrFujicaman
7-May-2020, 16:47
Here's a random thought-How about a slab of granite from a counter maker? No way that will warp.

Ulophot
7-May-2020, 19:09
Yes, but I'd be worried that rubber cement might not hold the column steady with the head up above mid-column.

Luis-F-S
7-May-2020, 19:26
When I needed a baseboard for my Chromega F, I went to a kitchen counter shop and had them make a double thickness formica baseboard. No way it was going to warp, and a lot lighter than a slab of granite!

203519

Drew Wiley
7-May-2020, 19:57
Paul ... MDO (medium density overlay) has a rather thin melamine coating, nowhere near as thick as the formica-style laminate on most enlarger bases, so one has to be careful not to scratch it. But it is relatively cheap, and is handy for a number of darkroom applications. After sawing it to size, you can end up with some very sharp melamine edges which need to be sanded or filed slightly to keep you from getting cut. The edges should be sealed. If it's MDF (medium density fiberboard), which is apparently what you actually meant, be aware that there are several quality grades of varying weight, density, and price. It is not waterproof unless properly sealed. Get the thickest, most dense type you can, if you can find someone willing to sell you a scrap or partial sheet. It can also be laminated with Formica. And you're incorrect about grain magnifiers. The expensive tilting-mirror types like the Peak Critical Focus are specifically designed to work precisely at the corners as well as the center of the easel, making it a handy to not only for focussing the neg in the carrier, but for checking parallelism between your carrier and easel. ... Ulophot, how did rubber cement sneak into this conversation? Was contact cement actually meant? - very different. Contact cement is used for laminating Formica to a surface. Rubber cement isn't good for much except to a glue sniffer.

Paul Ron
8-May-2020, 04:12
Paul ... MDO (medium density overlay) has a rather thin melamine coating, nowhere near as thick as the formica-style laminate on most enlarger bases, so one has to be careful not to scratch it. But it is relatively cheap, and is handy for a number of darkroom applications. After sawing it to size, you can end up with some very sharp melamine edges which need to be sanded or filed slightly to keep you from getting cut. The edges should be sealed. If it's MDF (medium density fiberboard), which is apparently what you actually meant, be aware that there are several quality grades of varying weight, density, and price. It is not waterproof unless properly sealed. Get the thickest, most dense type you can, if you can find someone willing to sell you a scrap or partial sheet. It can also be laminated with Formica. And you're incorrect about grain magnifiers. The expensive tilting-mirror types like the Peak Critical Focus are specifically designed to work precisely at the corners as well as the center of the easel, making it a handy to not only for focussing the neg in the carrier, but for checking parallelism between your carrier and easel. ... Ulophot, how did rubber cement sneak into this conversation? Was contact cement actually meant? - very different. Contact cement is used for laminating Formica to a surface. Rubber cement isn't good for much except to a glue sniffer.

mdo is a waterproof composit unlike mdf which is modtly used indoors for cabenets. mdo was used for road signs and outdoor situations. its much more stable than mdf and will hold a screw better as well. mdf will swell if it gets wet.... mdo will not.

https://www.hunker.com/12316947/what-is-mdo-plywood

anything you use will need to be sanded so whats the problem with sharp edges?

btw melamine is not mdo... thats another product made with mdf used in cheap cabinets.