Developer Question

[jtomasella]

Since I just got back into Film a Year ago I always see people talk about Rodinal or Xtol ect. I see Kodak makes the Xtol and D76. I've been using HC-110. Is everyone using Photographer formula for things like Rodinal or Pyrocat? If not, what are you using. I'd like to experiment with other developers just to see what I get. Although I have no complaints with the HC-110, it has been a great developer.

[Scyg]

I've had good luck with Foma R-09 (Rodinal) at 1:100, but now I'm also using HC-110 and loving it.

[Jim Noel]

You can find the info about Pyrocat HD and all of it's variations at -https://sandykingphotography.com/resources/technical-writing/pyro-staining-developers

[Alan9940]

My favorite film developers at the moment are: Pyrocat-HD, HC-110, D-76, Clayton F-76+, and Spur Acurol-N. I typically use a specific developer, for a specific film emulsion, and somewhat for a specific development technique. For example, I love F-76+ with Ilford Delta 100, HC-110 with Tri-X, and I use Pyrocat-HD mostly for minimal agitation techniques. It should be said, however, that each combo I've arrived at has been through careful testing and provides results that I'm looking for. YMMV, of course.

[jose angel]

I use D76 for almost everything, but in different concentrations for different purposes, although mostly 1:3 as an one use solution.
I'm not enchanted with its characteristics, but it is very consistent and I have learned how to use it, relatively cheap and always available. I have always thought that better to know one developer than to use several ones without control. Same with film, I almost exclusively use FP4+.
From time to time I mix Crawley`s FX-1, which I love because is extremely sharp, but it is not so consistent or long lasting. Anyway, I consider it my favourite right now.
My life`s favourite has probably been Paterson`s Acutol, now out of production. For a long time I have been looking for the formula, without sucess.
Another favourite was Rodinal, but stopped using it, with no special reason. Maybe because I changed my taste about the grainy look.
Time ago mixed some Pyrogallol developers, found them to be the very best ones, but its toxicity keep me away from them.

[jtomasella]

Main reason I asked is because I'd like to try the Fomapan. I looked through that thread and really like the look. I saw that some used HC-100 but I'd like to try 2 different developers to see the difference in the same shot.

[LabRat]

Down the shorter road, you might be a good candidate for mixing your own developers... With just several (not expensive) ingredents, a scale, and a photo cookbook, you can make many different variations and see what works for you...

D23 is the gateway drug... ;-)

Steve K

[Alan9940]

Main reason I asked is because I'd like to try the Fomapan. I looked through that thread and really like the look. I saw that some used HC-100 but I'd like to try 2 different developers to see the difference in the same shot.

I use Pyrocat-HD with Fomapan 100 in both 4x5 and 8x10; one of my favorite combos!

[jose angel]

Main reason I asked is because I'd like to try the Fomapan. I looked through that thread and really like the look. I saw that some used HC-100 but I'd like to try 2 different developers to see the difference in the same shot.
Never used Fomapan but from what I read is a classic fine grain kind of film; it will be fine with classic developers.
I'd say you should know first what kind of developer/results you are looking for; fine grain and resolution (solvent) vs sharpness and graininess (non-solvent), etc. If you try the two extremes it will be easier to see the differences. Pyro developers are different.

[mpirie]

D23 is the gateway drug... ;-)

Oh, don't Steve.....i've only recently gotten my head (and hands) around Pyrocat HD :D

Mike

[esearing]

I switched to Pyrocat-M (Metol) and only need 3 chemicals for Part A and had enough left over to make Obsidian Aqua and some D23. Most of my raw chemicals come from Artcraft, Bostick and Sullivan, and Photographers Formulary. My main print developer is now the PF-130 based on Ansco 130 and I find it easier to just buy the kits.
If you dilute your paper developers you can use them with film too in some cases but it takes some experimentation. Bleach, reducers, and toners are another area you will likely experiment with so its good to build up your inventory and equipment needed for mix-your-own solutions.

[Randy]

D23 is the gateway drug... ;-)
I agree - read Ken Lee's website (http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/tech/D-23.php) for mixing my own. I was very frustrated with how Rodinal treated my Ilford films - the grain was horrible. D-23 seems to have taken care of that.

[Drew Wiley]

If you like your results, simply stick with HC-110. I use different developers for different specific purposes, which includes various tweaks of HC-110, but my primary go-to developer for general photography is PMK pyro. It's been 30 year since I last used D23, and nearly as long for D76, but they obviously work too.

[Steve Sherman]

Since I just got back into Film a Year ago I always see people talk about Rodinal or Xtol ect. I see Kodak makes the Xtol and D76. I've been using HC-110. Is everyone using Photographer formula for things like Rodinal or Pyrocat? If not, what are you using. I'd like to experiment with other developers just to see what I get. Although I have no complaints with the HC-110, it has been a great developer.

Whatever developer you choose, stick with it, ignore other suggestions until you truly know what your film / developer combination will yield, if you're pursuing maximum results. If you simply enjoy experimenting than try them all

[esearing]

If you simply enjoy experimenting [then] try them all+1 - Not all who wander are lost. For some it is the journey, not the destination.

[roscoetuff-Skip Mersereau]

+1 "What Steve Sherman said.

Used more options than I care to speak about. It grows old. Simplicity is bliss. Thought I'd settled into doing Caffenol-CH as my off-beat, "forever" thing until Covid-19 made my Dollar Tree rot gut coffee scarce. Had the chems on hand so mixed up 2 liters of D-23 which I'm loving. Couldn't be simpler. So I ordered more chems from Arts+Crafts and think this D-23 will do me for a long time with B&W. Like keeping the kit stuff in reserve, but mixing your own is simpler than you think. Did I switch formats? Oh yeah. Did that, too, and I find that with LF 4X5 pretty much driving you to a tripod, some of the other typical considerations are less compelling. D-23 is fine 'cause hey, the developer is NOT the magic... the magic is you and putting the time in to figure out how to dial in your handling, processing, exposure, and all the things that go into the craftsmanship of the image.... but the magic.... that's still not there but what you see before you, and how you're able to capture it. Composition, lighting... the usual stuff. And the courage to get close enough to let your subject draw your viewer in. Have I got a lot of work to do there? Yeah. The good thing is that I think if we can "solve" some of these other things or push them into the background, we can move on to the main event.

[Ironage]

The art of photography is the development not of the film but of the photographer.

Go ahead and play! Your choice of developer does make a big difference in the image, and finding what is sweat to your eye is like discovering new recipes. Mix it up a bit and taste and see. If you are not having fun, you are not doing it right.

I recommend the phone app Formulas by digitaltruth.


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[Tin Can]

The best advice when I returned to film in 2011 was to pick one and get to know it very well. Less confusion...

So I did

Now, 9 years later I am adding 2 more

Some know what I use, as i posted it

Safety First and Always

[Joe O'Hara]

"The art of photography is the development not of the film but of the photographer."

+1 to that.

[LabRat]

When I ran out of a large stock of prepared chems, me and another photog tried mixing up a batch of D23 as a test... Was really pleased!!! But as some time went by, noticed it was fine over 4X5 but a little mushy for smaller formats... Mixed up some D76, but was a little harsh in the Cali hard sun (even diluted) so tried a # of formulas... Studied some development theories and looked to possibilities for a good "general" developer... Scoured the books to find one and found one I have been using for most everything for 30 years...

And great it costs pennies to make, and can be made fresh easily when needed, or stock that lasts a long time...

But D23 was the "gateway drug" that got the ball rolling, but other special film & paper dev can be produced on demand when needed... And mixes fresh and clear, rather then some reports of new oxidized factory formulas now being sold...

I won't go back to store bought...

Steve K

[roscoetuff-Skip Mersereau]

The art of photography is the development not of the film but of the photographer.

Love that quote!

LabRat: Maybe you've shared it elsewhere, but seems like either you're dying to share the ID of your secret sauce, or you're afraid to mention it for the umpteenth time. What's the sauce?

[Ralph Miyashiro]

A word about Fomapan 100. My experience is that it builds contrast quickly. I'm new in the lab so stuck with the "one film, one developer" advice and was using Naaco super 76 ( a liquid D-76 clone). I struggled with controlling highlight density in spite of increased dilutions and decreased development times. Finally mixed my own D-76 variant (I've seen it called d-76H or dk-76, anyhow three ingredients) and that so far has been successful although using it at a 1:2 dilution. I don't know how fomapan responds in other developers but this is my experience.

fshmstr

[LabRat]

Love that quote!

LabRat: Maybe you've shared it elsewhere, but seems like either you're dying to share the ID of your secret sauce, or you're afraid to mention it for the umpteenth time. What's the sauce?

OK, OK, posted here before (Happy Groundhogs Day, Folks)...

I don't have the full formula handy, but this is from the British Journal of Photography yearbook...

DK-50D (two part, diluted)

Mix 1 liter stock/working of DK-50 formula and call it part A...

Then mix part B solution with 40gm Kodalk (sodium metaborate) into 500ml of water...

For diluted working solution, mix 2 parts of A (200ml), 1 part of B (100ml), and 7 parts water (700ml) to make 1 liter working... (Use working solution one-shot...)

Developing times very close to D76 1:1 (around 8 min/68° many med speed films), no speed loss, visible but fine pinpoint (like gravure) grain, semi-compensating, clean working, brilliant tonality, but with edge effects... Highlights don't block up, and I can mix beach bright and night scenes on the same roll... Holds up well to big enlarging...

Suggest exposing med speed film +1/3 stop, and underdeveloping -10% (about a minute less)... The right density for silver enlarging or scanning... Easier to do than to explain...

I spent months doing this research, only to come up with this combination, but here it is... ;-)

This saved me from using Pyro formulas that made a mess, and gave me a severe skin reaction (even when I was careful)...

Enjoy...

Steve K

[Ironage]

LabRat. I love DK-50 if using large tanks. It also lasts a long time with tank covers and can be replenished.


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[LabRat]

LabRat. I love DK-50 if using large tanks. It also lasts a long time with tank covers and can be replenished.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Try the dilute version sometime for a small run... It is a one shot, but note how little solution is used above... Also a good developer for older film due to the restrainer present... Has a finer look for subtle details than stock, and is my go-to for 35mm film + enlargement...

But new sodium metaborate is getting a little harder to source now... Someday I might have to start compounding myself in liquid form, but the liquid ratios are a little screwy...

Carry On!!!

Steve K

[LabRat]

A word about Fomapan 100. My experience is that it builds contrast quickly. I'm new in the lab so stuck with the "one film, one developer" advice and was using Naaco super 76 ( a liquid D-76 clone). I struggled with controlling highlight density in spite of increased dilutions and decreased development times. Finally mixed my own D-76 variant (I've seen it called d-76H or dk-76, anyhow three ingredients) and that so far has been successful although using it at a 1:2 dilution. I don't know how fomapan responds in other developers but this is my experience.

fshmstr

Been using the DK50D with Foma 100, and can print deep into dense highlights with the negs that don't block up... That film not the best night film due to the reciprocity issues, but even 3 or 4 stop overexposure in bright night highlights is no problem to print... Surprisingly!!!

Steve K