8x10 film dev - what do you use as a process? [Archive]

fwaeyten

21-Apr-2020, 01:13

Hi,

After some research I've decided to jump to 8x10. The order for a Svedovsky is on the way. I probably only have a faint idea of what I'm getting into, but I decided to start of with just doing contact prints, and - if I really get into it - try to build an enlarger from a camera.
Now...I have been developing my own film since a year and a half or so, using a dark bag for 35mm and 6x6 and some jobo containers, but from what I've read so far it seems these are the options for 8x10:

- Tray development; Question: In complete darkness? Seems a bit daunting.
- Daylight dev; using Paterson Orbital Color print processor (ebay)
- Daylight dev: Jobo Expert sheet drum (700USD for a plastic bottle, jikes)
- Daylight dev: SP 2810 ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMTfVAdif-o or https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1653453089/524638372?ref=93xw0u&token=b0ad9dec
- Daylight dev: Combiplan: https://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/firstcall-artifex-sheet-film-developing-tank-8-x-10-inch/p7256

Maybe there are other small scale options.
What do you use? Can you briefly describe you process? What do you recommend for a beginner as myself.

Cheers,

Filip

Rayt

21-Apr-2020, 02:26

I use both the Orbital and the Stearman 810 the same way with 500ml solution and agitate 10 seconds per minute. The Orbital is much smaller in case you are using a changing bag instead of a tent. Overall I prefer the Orbital but if you are using smaller formats the Stearman dividers work very well.

John Layton

21-Apr-2020, 03:19

If you already have some 8x10 print developing trays...maybe see if you can find some free (or cheap) outdated 8x10 film and do some tray-processing practice runs, with plain water in the trays, with the lights on at first...then with a very dim light (or safelight), then with lights off. I do understand that the prospect of tray processing can seem intimidating at first...but all it takes is a bit of practice. Good luck!

Two23

21-Apr-2020, 06:27

The easiest and most foolproof way is to use the new SP810. Perfect result everytime starting with the first try. A 5 y/o could do it. Load in the dark, do the rest at your kitchen sink.

Kent in SD

Corran

21-Apr-2020, 06:36

http://www.badgergraphic.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3825

Roger Thoms

21-Apr-2020, 06:44

http://www.badgergraphic.com/opencart/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=3825

+1, been using BTZS tube since 2000, here a link for another source that has some good YouTube videos.

Roger

Ben Calwell

21-Apr-2020, 06:57

Tray processing. Once you get used to it, it’s fine. As someone else suggested, practice with some dummy sheets. You must be in total darkness, of course, but that’s never bothered me. It’s a zen experience. With 8x10 I would sometimes just process one sheet at a time.

Alan9940

21-Apr-2020, 07:32

Over the years, I've used just about every technique for processing 8x10 film, but, currently, I use both a Jobo Expert Drum on a CPP-2 processor or the Stearman SP-8x10. Which I use, generally, depends on number of sheets needing processing and, if I'm wanting to employ a specific development technique. For example, if I need to run many sheets using something like HC-1110, I'll use the Jobo; if I want to process via a minimal agitation technique with Pyrocat-HD, I'll use the Stearman tank.

There are many methods for developing 8x10, but, as a beginner, I'd highly recommend starting with trays if you want to process more than one sheet at a time, or the Stearman tank for single sheets. As others have already said, if you decide on the tray route, practice with a few sheets in the light until you get the hang of shuffling the stack; then, turn off the lights and practice some more to get the feel of working in the dark. I did tray processing for all my LF film for the first 15 years I used LF. It's not hard...

Good luck and have fun!

ronish1

21-Apr-2020, 07:34

I process all my 8x10 film in print trays and it has always worked out fine. Although it is possible to process more than one sheet at a time (use a 10x12 or 11x14 tray, ideally, so that you can slide each sheet over and under the others so that you are cycling them through the dev.without the possibility of scratching the emulsion: even St. Ansel did this. Good practice for this is to make tests on 10x8 paper. RC is ideal because it has some of the same physical properties of sheet film and will also provide you with a paper negative that can be contact printed. Iso of paper is about 5-10 ASA but it is a good and inexpensive way of testing cameras, film holders and lenses especially if you suspect you may have signs of light leaks and don't want to waste film (which for 10x8 is very expensive). Testing in this way (which can be done with a safelight) is an excellent method for improving technique prior to doing it for real in complete darkness once you do start to use film for real. Good luck!

revdoc

21-Apr-2020, 14:07

BTZS tubes that I made myself, with press-on end caps and minimum developer. At the end of development I fix in a tray with the lights on.

cuypers1807

21-Apr-2020, 14:11

BTZS for black and white and Color by Beseler print drum and motor base for color.

Vaughn

21-Apr-2020, 14:13

Once I got my feet off the ground using 4x5 SS hangers and SS Tanks, I used trays. Film from 4x5 to 11x14. One at a time. Worked for me...low volume and all that. I now use the Jobo Expert Drums...you'll find used ones at half that price...eventually. But I'll use a tray still for special cases. Have fun!

Drew Wiley

21-Apr-2020, 14:20

100% of the time, a dimple-bottomed stainless oversized tray (nominal 11X14), sitting in a larger water bath tray, total darkness, 3 to 6 sheets at a time, depending. I once used film drums, but no more.

Jim Noel

21-Apr-2020, 15:10

Tray is preference, sometimes i use the Jobo.Never could stand the Combiplan for film of any size.

John Kasaian

21-Apr-2020, 16:29

Either trays or a Unicolor print drum, depending on the darkness mojo in my guest bathroom/dark room.
The Unicolor is easy to load in the dark with the rest of the process done on the kitchen counter top.
For developing film in trays I have a wood plank that spans the sink in the guest bathroom to give me room for the trays. I use the same plank (and trays) for developing prints as well for film.
When the Unicolor gives up the ghost, it'll be trays 100% of the time.

Michael Filler

21-Apr-2020, 17:18

Trays are good for 1 - 5 sheets at a time. Tubes are 1 at a time. Tanks can do 13 at a time, and I preload the racks with hangers, so I can process 26 within an hour. I have been using 3.5 gallon tanks for years. You can put up to 13 hangers in at one time. You need several of these tanks, at a minimum 3. When I started 8x10 about 25 years ago that's what I had. I would fill them with water in the middle, fixer to the left, developer to the right. I start in the middle for 60s constant agitation, as as presoak (otherwise bubbles can stick to the film, block the developer). The I would set me timer for dev time and lift all the racks to the right tank. Every mininute I'd lift all hangers straight up, and tilt one way, dunk and lift/tilt the other way. I do it in 10s. Too fast and you risk overdevelopment near the rack's drainage holes. Too slow and you might not be fully recoating the sheet with dev, blotchy. When I am done with dev I lift the whole rack, drain for 10 seconds and put the whole thing back in that middle tank, as a stop. Sure it is tinted now with the dye from the anti-halation coating, but all you really need is to rinse off excess developer before going to the fix. Then I agitate in the fix much like in dev, constant for the first minute, then every 30 seconds. After 2-3 minutes it is safe to turn a light on. You could then dump the dev back into storage bottles and clean the stop tank at the same time, and set one to rinse, the other for hypoclear. Most films are fully fixed when the tint is gone, 6-10 minutes. The HC is 2 minutes continuous agitation, the rinse is 15 - 30 minutes, depending on flow.
Keep temps all about the same, 68F. After a while I bought dedicated tanks for each step, Prewet, dev, stop, fix, rinse, HC, wash. I also bought racks to hold the hangers as a single unit. Not necessary, but convenient.

Luis-F-S

21-Apr-2020, 17:21

For 1-2 sheets, I use an 11x14 Unicolor Drum, 300 ml of developer with 10 ml of HC-110 and 290 water (Dil B). For up to 6 sheets, I use 1 gal tanks and hangers, again, HC-110B. Never had any luck with trays, always scratched film.

L

Alan9940

22-Apr-2020, 07:33

For up to 6 sheets, I use 1 gal tanks and hangers, again, HC-110B.

If you don't mind sharing, how do you agitate with the hangers? I've tried just about every technique I've read about and never been totally successful. The closet I came to success was lift/tilt left, lift/tilt right. However, if I'm not real smooth (and real slow) when dropping the hanger back into the developer, I'll get slight surge marks from the developer "spurting" up through the holes in the bottom trough (8x10). Didn't have this issue with 4-up 4x5 because the drain holes are on the sides. Also, I've seen a slight density change along random edges of the film.

Any tips, tricks, insight you'd care to share would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Alan

p martinez

22-Apr-2020, 08:16

I have been developing in pyrogallo by inspection. I stopped using a light meter a few years ago and I think my "hit-rate" of getting properly exposed and developed negatives has actually improved.

Michael Filler

22-Apr-2020, 10:59

If you don't mind sharing, how do you agitate with the hangers? I've tried just about every technique I've read about and never been totally successful. The closet I came to success was lift/tilt left, lift/tilt right. However, if I'm not real smooth (and real slow) when dropping the hanger back into the developer, I'll get slight surge marks from the developer "spurting" up through the holes in the bottom trough (8x10). Didn't have this issue with 4-up 4x5 because the drain holes are on the sides. Also, I've seen a slight density change along random edges of the film.

Any tips, tricks, insight you'd care to share would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Alan

The surge marks are because you are dropping them in too fast, or aggressive developer.

Going up is less of a problem, any developer going through is partially depleted. Go up in about 5 seconds, come down a little slower, about 6-7 seconds, once for left tilt once for right tilt. After the second dunk I pick the whole group up about 3/8" and DROP it back down, just to make sure there aren't any bubbles hanging on.

I use straight D76, Ilford HP5 for 9 minutes@ 68F. If you have a hotter dev, anything close to or under 6 minutes you are more likely to have this problem. You might want to try a weaker blend, allow it to go full development. If you really weaken the dev it can be almost like water bath method, though you might pick up fog. Life's a trade off.

Greg

22-Apr-2020, 11:11

For many years used CIBACHROME processing drums on top of Unicolor Unirollers. They very simply just work. 5-10% the cost of similar JOBO equipment. Only when I started shooting a lot more did I invest in JOBO EXPERT drums and a STARK SST4 rotary processing unit. But even now when I shoot only one or 2 sheets of film go back to tray processing or using the CIBACHROME drums and the Unicolor Unirollers. Got away from tray processing (obviously in the dark) only when I changed developers and 20 minute processing times were the norm...

Luis-F-S

22-Apr-2020, 11:51

Alan9940

22-Apr-2020, 21:18

The way Oliver Gagliani taught us at his Virginia City, Nevada workshop, one second per motion, up & down twice, up & to left, down, up and to the right, down up & down twice.

OK, if I'm counting right that would be a total of 10 secs to complete an agitation cycle? For the up/down motion, are the hangers lifted completely clear of the tank? Sure seems like those quick motions would cause increased turbulence around the drain holes and troughs, but if Oliver taught it that way I'll certainly give it a try.

Thanks!

agregov

22-Apr-2020, 22:59

I would keep things simple as you're spinning up and just use 8x10 trays. You never know, you might decide against 8x10 for a variety of reasons once you get going. No sense in purchasing a bunch of fancy equipment that you'll just need to unload. And I say this as a Jobo CPP3 owner.

I took a workshop with Michael Smith several years back and he used to snicker at the mechanical Jobo processors. Not because they were poor but for 8x10, you can process up to five sheets of film in a 3005 tank. Michael said he would process a dozen or more sheets of film at a time in a 11 x 14 tray. He said it would take him forever to process the hundreds of sheets of film he would return with from a shoot five at time. It's a favorite memory with him at that workshop as it illustrated (to me at least) that fancy equipment isn't always the answer. He also had a saying, "If it was good enough for Edward Weston, it was good enough for him." Definitely no tank based systems in Weston's day--all tray processed and those are pretty darn good images.

So, that's a long winded way of saying just go with tray processing to begin. Use the shuffle method, start with say 4-5 sheets in an 8x10 tray, agitate and every 30 seconds take a sheet from the bottom of the tray and move it to the top. An extra bonus, if the tray method agrees with you, you can later move to development by inspection (using brief bursts green light) and make incredibly high quality negatives for printing. Ilford film is more affordable than Kodak. Arista EDU even more affordable than Ilford. You don't need to start with expired product if you prefer not to.

Alan9940

23-Apr-2020, 07:35

@agregov, assuming your reply above was directed at me, I've been shooting 8x10 for 40 years and tray processed my film for the first 15 years. I gave that all up when I got a Jobo CPP-2 and the Expert Drums. The Jobo provided much "cleaner" negs that I ever got with tray processing. However, over the years I've experimented with other development techniques and processes. I mainly use the tanks & hangers for pyro development and minimal agitation techniques; which is why I'd like to master that process. To date, I haven't reached a technique that provides the kind of neg I'm looking for.

agregov

23-Apr-2020, 11:58

Hi Alan, good to meet you. No, I was simply commenting to the original poster. Sorry, didn't think my response might get tangled in other conversations, otherwise I would have quoted in the post. Apologies. In any event, if you detect any slight negativity in my response, it's more to 8x10 in general than anything else. Zero comment on the wonderful results you can get from 8x10. Just for me personally...I find it a difficult format to work with in the field size wise, with the large cameras and film holders. And processing in a Jobo is somewhat concerning (again for me) as motor strain dealing with the heavier 3005 drum and more chemistry the drum requires for 5 sheets is always on my mind. I've blown a motor before (to be fair an older Jobo not the CPP3) so I approach my processing with care. Pre Jobo, my processing for 4x5 was hangers and it worked quite well. But I wouldn't trade the Jobo for anything. I find for 4x5 especially, processing 10 sheets at a time in the 3010, just brilliant. You can crank through a large amount of processing fast and with very precise results you mention. I also work in C41 so the processor is crucial for my darkroom. That said, I wouldn't recommend a Jobo to someone new to working with sheet film. As you know, it's a significant investment and has its own learning curve. Cheers. Andrej

bob carnie

23-Apr-2020, 12:18

For regular 8 x 10 film I use Jobo , but I do an initial twist and invert for 15 seconds or so to get the chems on the film as fast as possible.. My main developer has been PMK .

For my personal work I use 8 x 10 hangers and do two at a time in a custom developer Metol based and half way through the dev I give a blast of point light source exposure.
then continue on in the deep tanks.

Alan9940

23-Apr-2020, 14:08

Hi Andrej, luckily, my CPP-2 has a late enough serial number that it has the upgraded motor to better handle the weight of filled Expert Drums. I run 5 sheets of 8x10 in a 3005 drum with 1.5L of solution. I do have to increase the speed control a bit to maintain proper rotation speed, but I've not burned up a motor, yet. I agree with you that the Jobo (if one can justify the expense and is willing to mount the learning curve) is the way to go for LF film. To date, no development technique I've ever tried provides as even development; though, the jury is still out with the Stearman SP-8x10 tank. I've only processed a few sheets in this tank, but I'm mightily impressed with what I've seen so far. Only thing there is that it's single sheet at a time.

Not sure if I got this from Bob C. (probably), but I do run PMK development in my Expert Drums using a total of 2L developer--1L for first half of development, dump, then another fresh liter for the second half. I've never had any oxidation issue with PMK in a rotary setup following this technique.

Yeah, 8x10 in the field can be daunting. Nowadays, I use an Intrepid 8x10, Fuji C lenses, and a carbon fiber tripod. Everything, except the tripod, fits into a Kelty P2 backpack and weighs <20 lbs. If I want to carry more than 1 or 2 holders, I use an RPT cascading film holder case with a shoulder strap. At 67 years young, I can carry this setup pretty far into the wilds.

Pere Casals

25-Apr-2020, 15:29

The Jobo provided much "cleaner" negs that I ever got with tray processing.

In my experience, by continuously agitating the tray I get exactly the same negative than with the JOBO. I find the ATL 2500+ very convenient because processing is automated, but I find several drawbacks compared to tray developement:

> Low agitation compensation cannot be used.

> Some developers can be oxydized if not, with mostly undesired effects.

> Continuous agitation does not provide Edge effects, but this is only a drawback for small formats.

Recently, the new edition of The Film Development Cookbook mentioned all that, raising some controversy, but what is pointed in that book is just the reality, IMO.

IMO in many situations rotary is good, but trays are more flexible.

Alan9940

25-Apr-2020, 21:17

Pere,

All valid points that I totally agree with. Don't always process with my Job; all depends on what I'm trying to accomplish.

Steven Ferson

20-Jan-2024, 03:33

…
I agree with you that the Jobo (if one can justify the expense and is willing to mount the learning curve) is the way to go for LF film. To date, no development technique I've ever tried provides as even development; though, the jury is still out with the Stearman SP-8x10 tank. I've only processed a few sheets in this tank, but I'm mightily impressed with what I've seen so far. Only thing there is that it's single sheet at a time.

…

Hello,
I recently started with large format (i got a good deal on a chamonix 8x10) and developed my first sheets with tray development (rodinal, normal agitation, results OK, as expected). I also shoot MF B&W.

Is in 2024 the stearman SP 8x10 the rational way to go for daylight development if you start from scratch?

I have acces to a darkroom at an art school, but want to get organised for development at home. Loading and changing film in the dark is no problem, but for development i will need a daylight development tank or tube.

I don’t shoot much sheet film. 1 sheet at a time is OK for me. The jobo expert drum and processors are probably to much (cost and storage).

I did some searching on this forum and in summary these seem the options for daylight development:
- Stearman SP8x10 tank: No complaints? Or no final conclusion?
- Cibachrome ii paper drum
- Jobo 2800 paper drum
- Other tubes
-…

I don’t have a conclusion on the paper drums (uneven development? ribs needed to allow fluid go behind the film?…), and table top rolling without a motorised roller is probably not ideal.

The price of the stearman tank is in the range of a used jobo paper drum. The cibachrome ii seems to be not that common in Europe. The ilford paper drum is easy to find, but i have no idea if this tank is suitable for sheet film and what the results are.

What is the best option to start with the right tool? Given the learning curve, i would like to play safe in the choice of this development tool.

Regards
Steven

Tin Can

20-Jan-2024, 04:27

Calumet Gas Burst covered daylight tanks on hangers

Bought used 10 years ago

MartyNL

20-Jan-2024, 04:55

Hi Steve,
I use the Durst codrum 205 on a motor base with 8x10" with no complaints. Personally, I give a 5min pre-soak, and I both tilt and turn the drum around, if the motor base doesn't have reverse, in order to introduce a more random, less uniform flow of chemicals.
I have found this to be a relatively, inexpensive, reliable and consistent method. Best of luck.

Steven Ferson

20-Jan-2024, 05:58

The Durst Codrum 205 looks similar to the ilford processing drum?

Steven

Fred L

20-Jan-2024, 06:02

Jobo 3005 if you can afford it, and it really doesn't take up much real estate. You also can use the manual roller base, or use something like a Simm roller base. I've also used Simma 8x10 print drums for 4x5 and 8x10 with no issues. The motorized base does make life easier ;)

MartyNL

20-Jan-2024, 10:05

The Durst Codrum 205 looks similar to the ilford processing drum?

Steven

You're right that they look very similar almost identical, but I have both and I have used both, and I can't remember why, but the Ilford drum didn't work as well as the Durst, so I avoid using it.
Unfortunately I don't have access at the moment.
Anyway, this is like the type, model that I use which is plain and not the one with text all over it.

Steven Ferson

20-Jan-2024, 10:10

Hello,

I got 2 recommendations for drums. Are there good results with the stearman daylight tray or should i stick to a drum for daylight development?

Steven

Kiwi7475

20-Jan-2024, 10:35

Hello,

I got 2 recommendations for drums. Are there good results with the stearman daylight tray or should i stick to a drum for daylight development?

Steven

The Stearman SP-8x10 works beautifully and it’s hard to make mistakes with. Also you can use it for 4x5, 5x7, 4x10.

The drums are a better option if you have a lot to process. They are not fool proof though — loading, rotation speeds, leveling , etc are things to watch for. Of course they’re a great tool once you’ve done it right a couple of times.

I always got perfect results since day one with the Stearman. I recommend it if you don’t mind processing 1 sheet at a time.

Dugan

20-Jan-2024, 10:36

I love my Stearman Press 8x10 setup.
No damage, no surge marks, uses only 500ml of developer.
I have two of them...one dedicated to 8x10, the other for 5x7 & 4x5.
The only downside is the single sheet capacity...
I can only load it at night.
If I shoot 6 sheets of 8x10, I'm looking at a week-long processing adventure, maybe more.
Not recommended for double-sided X-Ray film, but that's not an issue for me.

neil poulsen

20-Jan-2024, 14:51

I have my own system using a plastic Calumet, 8x10 film hanger that I've customized to avoid any streaking.

To maintain precise temperature control and timing, I develop all my film in total darkness. (Daylight film processing is full of compromises.) Of course, I have everything laid out in advance. I also have shades that surround my timer, so that zero stray light reaches the film.

Joshua Dunn

20-Jan-2024, 21:46

Jobo. Makes your processing simple and consistent.

-Joshua

esearing

22-Jan-2024, 05:43

for 5x12 I use a 5 reel stainless tank with 1800ML of developer so use pyro-m because I can use at 1:1:100 dilution. If I am feeling brave I will put two sheets in the tank - taco method. Agitation is merely inverting the tank a few times at my standard intervals. Also works well with semi stand or EMA techniques but you do have to watch for bromide drag and agitate a bit more frequently. I have been contemplating a custom 8x20 Stearman tank/tray but its not in the budget currently.

jnantz

22-Jan-2024, 05:59

I develop everything in an open tray . used to use hangers and tanks but ran into random issues and it eventually became easier just to use open trays than hunt down the rattle under the hood with a stethoscope ... never looked back except for from time to time using FR tanks to stand soak for 30 mins wash and fix ... I remember back in the go-go naughts people used to "brush develop" in an open tray with a brush to agitate their film it seemed to work for them maybe because they developed individual sheets. I don't do 1 at a time ..

Nat.Images

29-Jan-2024, 07:01

Good morning,

Please, does anyone know the Durst Codrum 304 tank, for developing (8x10) 2 sheet , how to use, I have searched everywhere on the Internet and have not found any instruction manual.
Many thanks .
Nat

WombatVarnish

1-Feb-2024, 05:04

I would agree with jnantz (above) that trays are the way to go. You undoubtedly already have them, so that solves the problem of locating hangers and tanks, etc, ad infinitum.
I use Paterson 12x16 trays because they have recessed channels in the bottom that make it easy to get under and pick up the film. (Flat bottom trays are a nightmare in the dark.) They can still be had from B&H for a relative song if you need any. One tray for pre-soak, then developer, water stop, Kodak fixer, short rinse, Heico Permawash, then a 5 minute wash in either a print washer or a tray with moving water with rotating agitation, then Photoflo, then hang.
The biggest thing I have run into over the years is my hands heating the developer during agitation, so I keep a Kodak hard rubber tank with ice water in it which I keep my hands in between agitation cycles.
You have to be careful when doing 8 or 10 sheets at a time to very exaggeratedly lay the film flat on the liquid and then press it down in the center into the solution gently, then take the next sheet off the bottom of the stack and do the same movement again. If you don't do that overly careful laying down of the film, you'll inevitably gouge the emulsion of the sheet below with the film corner of the one you're holding.
In a stack of 8 sheets, put only one with the notches in the top right corner and start with that sheet, leaving the other sheets with the notches pointed the other way. That way you'll always know where you started from. With 8 sheets, start agitating at the top of the minute and you'll have about 30 seconds of rest time to ice your hands down before you have to do it again. I recommend a black Gralab timer because the hands and markers glow in the dark.
Make sure you have enough developer in the tray to effectively act on the square footage of number of sheets of film you are developing. An 8x10 sheet is 80 square inches, so if you are doing 8 sheets at a time you need enough developer volume for 160 square inches of film. HC-110 used to have a chart for that calculation, but if they've changed it, you can find it in the appendix of Ansel's [I]The Negative[I] probably. He has everything else in there, including dilutions for HC-110 you can play with and development times for each. He shot Tri-X at 160 and used more dilute developer. There is a lot of N-1 and N-2 development with this method.
You'll freak out the first time you do this (OH GOD I'M TOUCHING THE EMULSION!!!!) but after a few times it becomes second nature. Inevitably you will have the emulsion of one sheet wanting to stick to the back of another. This is a major heart stopper. Just slip your hand between them and gently flap it up and down, and that will usually loosen the sticky gradually. The water pre-soak is there to prevent that from happening, so don't exclude it.
Keep your fingernails short and good luck!

Tin Can

1-Feb-2024, 06:31

wall of words

i ignore

bye

Vaughan

1-Feb-2024, 16:01

wall of words

i ignore

bye

Often when you write
the words make a pattern that
is a haiku, almost.

Tin Can

1-Feb-2024, 16:12

I have very poor eye sight

Right now I am seeing groseye

I do the best I can as long as I can

my staircase double space help me

I hane know I will go blind sicnce child

Pease be with you

dave_whatever

2-Feb-2024, 09:36

I've been using a Paterson Orbital. Works fine, although some people report being able to use as little developer as 150ml for me this lead to underdeveloped centre on the negs. So I've upped it to 250ml and it's all good. No reason for me to try to Stearman, although it does look good it uses twice the chemistry as the Orbital.

I have a Jobo CPE2 for 5x4", and a tank big enough to do 8x10" which I would try except I've never really gotten to the bottom of if there's actually a reliable reel for 8x10". There's a lot of options around now, chinese ones and various 3D printed ones, but having tried the original Catlabs 8x10 reel that scratched the film which rather put me off bothering with this route. One thing you can say about the Orbital is you do get nice scratch-free negs.

Steven Ferson

6-Feb-2024, 02:55

You're right that they look very similar almost identical, but I have both and I have used both, and I can't remember why, but the Ilford drum didn't work as well as the Durst, so I avoid using it.
Unfortunately I don't have access at the moment.
Anyway, this is like the type, model that I use which is plain and not the one with text all over it.

Marty,
Because the sp810 is out of stock in Eu webshops, i am having a look at the durst codrum. I still have a couple of questions to sort out…

The tank seems to be excentric to the bottom plate. Rolling on a table surface will have a different flow in the tank than rolling on a roller base? Or am i missing something in it’s design?

Is the tank suitable for table top rolling or should i make/buy a roller base? I can imagine that this affects the quantity of chemicals that are needed? How much are you using? I read somewhere that the cup takes 90 ml. 90 ml rodinal seems very little to me for a 8x10 sheet at normal dilution. A 135 film takes about 300 ml in a paterson tank. The sp810 takes 500ml.

Thanks sharing your workflow!
Steven