75mm Super Angulon 5.6 - Lindhof Master Technica - SOFT EDGES [Archive]

nban1991

5-Apr-2020, 20:01

Hey Guys,

New to this forum, so Gday from Australia!

Im using a Lindhof Master Technica 2000 (almost certain its the 2000 anyway), and am having som troubles with the Schneider-Kreuznach Super Angulon 75mm 5.6 Lens, being that when shot on a lindhof recessed lens board there is softness around the edges (see examples attached).
202286
202287
202288

I was thinking that this may be because it looks like the lens doesn't completely screw into the lens board, with the back element of the lens hitting up against the "recessed" (see image) part of the board, stopping it from screwing up to where it needs to.
202285

I have also tried on a flat lens board, and I can get it to focus at infinite but its literally on the edge of the rail and completely pushed back into the body of the camera (not how I intended its meant to be used).

Would love to hear some thoughts and possible fixes for this problem from you guys.

Thanks alot.

Nick

Bob Salomon

6-Apr-2020, 03:17

Did you remove that small anti twist screw from the back of the shutter before mounting it on your camera?

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 03:27

Did you remove that small anti twist screw from the back of the shutter before mounting it on your camera?

Hey Bob,

If you mean the part that tightens the front element (of the lens) into place on the board before then screwing the back lens element in, then yes.

I’m not sure what other anti twisting screw there could be?

Nick

Bob Salomon

6-Apr-2020, 03:44

Hey Bob,

If you mean the part that tightens the front element (of the lens) into place on the board before then screwing the back lens element in, then yes.

I’m not sure what other anti twisting screw there could be?

Nick

A very small, silver headed, screw that sticks up slightly on the back of the shutter.

Dan Fromm

6-Apr-2020, 05:14

Well, if the rear cell won't screw all the way into the shutter you're cooked. The problem may be the anti-rotation screw that Bob mentioned. If it isn't, you're permanently cooked.

ic-racer

6-Apr-2020, 05:23

Some people pay a lot of money for a lens that does that....

Bob Salomon

6-Apr-2020, 05:28

Did you have it professionally mounted or did you do it yourself?

There is another possibility, the retaining flange has a lip and the les ay be hung up on the lip on one side.

Greg

6-Apr-2020, 05:54

Last year I bought a 75mm Fujinon lens off eBay. Looked to be in absolutely mint condition. When I shot a test sheet of film with it at f/16, got pretty much the same results that you did, center sharp but edges terrible. Pretty much 100% sure that the seller (or the person he acquired it from) replaced the rear set of elements with those from another lens. Fortunately was able to return it and get a refund.

Tobias Key

6-Apr-2020, 07:17

Chuck Pere

6-Apr-2020, 07:31

Is the lens attached to the board using a front mounted flange instead of a rear retaining ring? Maybe you can remove the flange and try it as a rear retaining ring.

JimL

6-Apr-2020, 13:43

One way to see if your lens board is causing interference would be to measure the overall length of the lens mounted on the board, then take it off the board and measure again...

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 15:39

A very small, silver headed, screw that sticks up slightly on the back of the shutter.

Hey Bob,

Looks like screws on the back of the shutter are all completely flat?

202313

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 15:41

Well, if the rear cell won't screw all the way into the shutter you're cooked. The problem may be the anti-rotation screw that Bob mentioned. If it isn't, you're permanently cooked.

Hey Dan,

It seems to me all screws are dead flat.

202314

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 15:50

Did you have it professionally mounted or did you do it yourself?

There is another possibility, the retaining flange has a lip and the les ay be hung up on the lip on one side.

Hey Bob,

It was an acquisition from a friend of mine, who hasn't used it in many years.

To be honest, I don't think he knew if this was the correct lens board, and may have just given me this recessed one to "throw it on" thinking it would do.

the retaining flange seems like it is screwing in perfectly. Not being an expert, but I'm really thinking that its the back lens element not having enough room to screw in properly (see an image of back element falling short of where it needs to sit?) 202315

Also, see the image of the back element with marks from it hitting the back of the lens board and being stopped?
202316

Dan Fromm

6-Apr-2020, 15:51

Hey Dan,

It seems to me all screws are dead flat.

Thanks for the news. Not good at all.

So bad that I took another look at your photo of the lens in the board. Something isn't right there. I have a couple of recessed boards. The front of the shutter goes in the recessed part, just like yours. The shutter's rear tube goes through the board, the back of the board goes between the the back of the shutter and a retaining ring that's screwed on the shutter's rear tube.

Its a little hard to be sure, but I think I see three (of four) screw heads in the back of the board and no retaining ring. If I'm interpreting what I see correctly, the shutter's rear tube may be screwed into a flange held to the front of the board's recess by four screws. If this is the case, take the flange out and treat it like a retaining ring. That is, put it behind the board with no screws holding it in position and screw the shutter's rear tube into it. Then try screwing the rear cell into the shutter's rear tube. It should seat properly.

{edit} The picture you showed Bob looks wrong wrong wrong. The lens' rear cell should screw into the shutter, not into the board.

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 15:52

Looks to me as if that board isn't compatible with that particular lens. Looking online there seems to be another type of recessed board that is a simpler design that wouldn't foul the rear elements - could you not get one of those? They are chinese copies that come up on ebay.

Hey Tobias,

You may be right.

Im not sure of what lens board I actually have though. Do you mind linking me to the one your talking about?

Thanks in advance.

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 15:55

Is the lens attached to the board using a front mounted flange instead of a rear retaining ring? Maybe you can remove the flange and try it as a rear retaining ring.

Hey Chuck,

See attached an image of how the front element of the lens is mounted.

Im guessing this is the rear retaining ring?

202317

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 16:06

Thanks for the news. Not good at all.

So bad that I took another look at your photo of the lens in the board. Something isn't right there. I have a couple of recessed boards. The front of the shutter goes in the recessed part, just like yours. The shutter's rear tube goes through the board, the back of the board goes between the the back of the shutter and a retaining ring that's screwed on the shutter's rear tube.

Its a little hard to be sure, but I think I see three (of four) screw heads in the back of the board and no retaining ring. If I'm interpreting what I see correctly, the shutter's rear tube may be screwed into a flange held to the front of the board's recess by four screws. If this is the case, take the flange out and treat it like a retaining ring. That is, put it behind the board with no screws holding it in position and screw the shutter's rear tube into it. Then try screwing the rear cell into the shutter's rear tube. It should seat properly.

{edit} The picture you showed Bob looks wrong wrong wrong. The lens' rear cell should screw into the shutter, not into the board.

Hey Dan,

See images for the process I am using. I think I am doing it correctly. Please let me know if I'm wrong.

Step 1. front lens element mounted to board using ring to mount, screws from the backside of the lens board.

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Step 2. The ring is tightened as far as it can go.

202320

step 3. The rear lens element is then screwed as far as it can go from the backside of lensboard, screwing into the thread of the front element.

202321

This is where I feel the back lens element is becoming really obstructed by the lens board, hence the bad marks on the back lens element (see image below.)

202322

I hope this gives a clear idea of what I am doing and maybe someone can pick up what I am doing wrong in the process.

Thanks in advance.

Nick

Dan Fromm

6-Apr-2020, 16:46

B.S.Kumar

6-Apr-2020, 16:56

step 3. The rear lens element is then screwed as far as it can go from the backside of lensboard, screwing into the thread of the front element.

I'm not sure what to make of this. The cells go into the shutter.

1. Separate cells from shutter.

2. Mount shutter into the front of the lens board and tighten the retaining ring.

3. Thread in the front cell.

4. Thread in the rear cell.

Kumar

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 16:59

One way to see if your lens board is causing interference would be to measure the overall length of the lens mounted on the board, then take it off the board and measure again...

Hey Jim,

It seems like the measurements of the lens in the lens board, compared to out of the lens board are pretty similar (id call exact to my eye but hard to measure perfectly as lens board makes it difficult).

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 17:02

When you screw the rear cell into the shutter, does turning it become impossible before or when its tapered section contacts the board? If it does, you need the right recessed board.

I believe, could be mistaken, that all 90/5.6 SAs are in #0 shutters. The four screws visible at the back of the board hold an adapter that allows a #0 shutter to be mounted on the board. It will work with lenses in #0 whose rear cells are slender enough to fit inside it.

The board itself is bored for a larger shutter, probably #1. The adapter also makes the recess shorter, the shutter mounts some distance above the bottom of the recess.

Hey Dan,

So when screwing the lens to the back element, THIS IS WITHOUT THE LENS BOARD, it does approximately 10 full rotations before it stops (and I presume, is sitting where it needs to sit).

When screwing the back element into the front element WITH THE LENSBOARD, it screws only about 5 full rotations, therefore as you said, it becomes impossible for it to be screwed any further.

What would you recommend then that my best option would be?

Thanks again for all the help.

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 17:05

I'm not sure what to make of this. The cells go into the shutter.

1. Separate cells from shutter.

2. Mount shutter into the front of the lens board and tighten the retaining ring.

3. Thread in the front cell.

4. Thread in the rear cell.

Kumar

Hey Kumar,

I can give that a go. How in fact do you unmount the front element from the shutter though? I have never done this before, only the back.

Thanks.

Roger Thoms

6-Apr-2020, 17:09

B.S.Kumar

6-Apr-2020, 17:18

The front cell unscrews from the shutter, just like the rear cell.

A clear photo of the front of the lens board without the shutter would help us figure out the problem.

Kumar

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 17:19

Looks like you need a new lens board. That’s the funkiest recessed board I’ve ever seen. With the inner cone that’s screwed into the main board you’ve just about defeated the whole purpose of having a recessed board. Hopefully Bob Salomon will way in and give you some direction as to what recessed board you need for your Master Technica 2000.

Roger

Hey Roger,

Thanks for the insight! I agree with you even with my little knowledge, that something is not right with the board.

I guess the thing to remember is that when the lens is mounted to the lens board, and I have the rail system extended and then the inside rails set back as far as possible, that the lens actually does focus well (but only in the center).

So I guess the lens board would need to be the same size, but with a different shaped "cone" back, to allow the back lens element to fit properly right?

See setup below.

202323

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 17:27

The front cell unscrews from the shutter, just like the rear cell.

A clear photo of the front of the lens board without the shutter would help us figure out the problem.

Kumar

Hey Kumar,

The front element feels like its fixed in there, or tightened so much that there is no way of uncoupling, at least not by me!

Id hate to damage the lens.

Dan Fromm

6-Apr-2020, 17:41

Hey Dan,

So when screwing the lens to the back element, THIS IS WITHOUT THE LENS BOARD, it does approximately 10 full rotations before it stops (and I presume, is sitting where it needs to sit).

When screwing the back element into the front element WITH THE LENSBOARD, it screws only about 5 full rotations, therefore as you said, it becomes impossible for it to be screwed any further.

What would you recommend then that my best option would be?

Thanks again for all the help.

Curses! The user manual is available on line. Search for it, download it and read it. I just did. Get the FM. Read the FM.

FYI, The Master Technika 2000 will focus a 90 mm lens on a flat board. You need a flat board to fit the camera, bored for a #0 shutter.

Stop dicking around with the bodge you have in hand, get the right board and go forward.

Bob Salomon

6-Apr-2020, 17:43

Hey Roger,

Thanks for the insight! I agree with you even with my little knowledge, that something is not right with the board.

I guess the thing to remember is that when the lens is mounted to the lens board, and I have the rail system extended and then the inside rails set back as far as possible, that the lens actually does focus well (but only in the center).

So I guess the lens board would need to be the same size, but with a different shaped "cone" back, to allow the back lens element to fit properly right?

See setup below.

202323

1: you have a Master Technika, not a Technika 2000.
the 2000 does not have a rangefinder and it has an internal focusing rail inside the body adjusted by a lever beneath the front standard.

2: the correct board for 72 through 150mm lenses, except for the 90mm 4.5 Grandagons, is the Linhof 001016 recessed board. That is the correct recessed board for the Super Technika IV, V, Master, 2000 and 3000.

3: the shutter mounts directly to the board with the jam nut holding it to the board. The rear group then screws into the rear of the mounted shutter.

Contact Australien
MAINLINE Photographics Pty. Ltd.
P.O.Box 845
68 Alexander Street, 2nd floor
Crows Nest, N.S.W. 2065
Fon +61 2 94375800
Fax +61 2 94375055
sales@mainlinephoto.com.au
www.mainlinephoto.com.au

If you still have a problem.

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 17:50

1: you have a Master Technika, not a Technika 2000.
the 2000 does not have a rangefinder and it has an internal focusing rail inside the body adjusted by a lever beneath the front standard.

2: the correct board for 72 through 150mm lenses, except for the 90mm 4.5 Grandagons, is the Linhof 001016 recessed board. That is the correct recessed board for the Super Technika IV, V, Master, 2000 and 3000.

3: the shutter mounts directly to the board with the jam nut holding it to the board. The rear group then screws into the rear of the mounted shutter.

Hey Bob,

My apologies, I hope that hasn't thrown to many people off. As I said, I am still new to the LF game.

I will look up and get myself a Linhof 001016 recessed board then.

Ive had a look on eBay for a used one, is it possible that they are named by the mm value instead of product name? (eg 19mm Recessed Lens Board Copal #0 Linhof Technika Chamonix Wista Shen Hao Toko)

Thanks.

Bob Salomon

6-Apr-2020, 17:53

Hey Bob,

My apologies, I hope that hasn't thrown to many people off. As I said, I am still new to the LF game.

I will look up and get myself a Linhof 001016 recessed board then.

Ive had a look on eBay for a used one, is it possible that they are named by the mm value instead of product name? (eg 19mm Recessed Lens Board Copal #0 Linhof Technika Chamonix Wista Shen Hao Toko)

Thanks.
Only by sellers who don’t know what board they are selling. You need the 001016 Linhof board. The current version is also called the Comfort Board as all controls and the aperture scale are mounted of the front of the board to eliminate trying to reach into the board to set aperture, press focus, PC socket, cable release, etc..

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 18:36

Only by sellers who don’t know what board they are selling. You need the 001016 Linhof board. The current version is also called the Comfort Board as all controls and the aperture scale are mounted of the front of the board to eliminate trying to reach into the board to set aperture, press focus, PC socket, cable release, etc..

Hey Bob,

Pardon me if this is obvious, but after researching and googling for a 001016 Lindhof board, I cant seem to find this model anywhere! At all!

What I've found is a few eBay sellers which are selling what seems to possibly be the correct one, but hard to be certain, right? (See two eBay links below)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-19mm-Recessed-Lens-Board-Copal-0-For-Ebony-Linhof-Chamonix-Wista-4x5-Camera/173487554154?hash=item2864a9fe6a:g:NFYAAOSwJ69bfRfv

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Copal-0-19mm-Recessed-Lens-Board-For-Linhof-Technika-Chamonix-Wista-4x5-Camera/273820977982?hash=item3fc1008b3e:g:aO4AAOSwBKBcqc3r

There are also two products from the Lindhof Studio in the UK, both have comfort board in the description, but not the 001016 product number?

https://www.linhofstudio.com/products/Linhof-Lensboards/Linhof_21mm_Deep_Recessed_Comfort_Lensboard

https://www.linhofstudio.com/products/Linhof-Lensboards/Linhof_Comfort_Recessed_Lensboard_with_QRS

Then there's is a 001015 Lensboard on B&H (Extremely expensive compared to the others), but again, the wrong product number?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/31360-REG/Linhof_001015_Recessed_Lensboard_with_Quicksocket.html

Another option, is do I buy a new lens, with is what looks like the correct board already attached, and sell my old one?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MINT-Schneider-Super-Angulon-75mm-f5-6-MC-Lens-4x5-Board-Case-from-Japan-883/233546786809

Thanks again for all your help, I really appreciate it.

Nick

Bob Salomon

6-Apr-2020, 19:06

Hey Bob,

Pardon me if this is obvious, but after researching and googling for a 001016 Lindhof board, I cant seem to find this model anywhere! At all!

What I've found is a few eBay sellers which are selling what seems to possibly be the correct one, but hard to be certain, right? (See two eBay links below)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-19mm-Recessed-Lens-Board-Copal-0-For-Ebony-Linhof-Chamonix-Wista-4x5-Camera/173487554154?hash=item2864a9fe6a:g:NFYAAOSwJ69bfRfv

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Copal-0-19mm-Recessed-Lens-Board-For-Linhof-Technika-Chamonix-Wista-4x5-Camera/273820977982?hash=item3fc1008b3e:g:aO4AAOSwBKBcqc3r

There are also two products from the Lindhof Studio in the UK, both have comfort board in the description, but not the 001016 product number?

https://www.linhofstudio.com/products/Linhof-Lensboards/Linhof_21mm_Deep_Recessed_Comfort_Lensboard

https://www.linhofstudio.com/products/Linhof-Lensboards/Linhof_Comfort_Recessed_Lensboard_with_QRS

Then there's is a 001015 Lensboard on B&H (Extremely expensive compared to the others), but again, the wrong product number?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/31360-REG/Linhof_001015_Recessed_Lensboard_with_Quicksocket.html

Another option, is do I buy a new lens, with is what looks like the correct board already attached, and sell my old one?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MINT-Schneider-Super-Angulon-75mm-f5-6-MC-Lens-4x5-Board-Case-from-Japan-883/233546786809

Thanks again for all your help, I really appreciate it.

Nick

Why not just call or visit the people in Crows Nest, they are listed as the AU Linhof distributor on the factory site?

B.S.Kumar

6-Apr-2020, 19:08

Remove the shutter and show us the front of the lens board. It may be possible to remove the cone and see if the lens can be fitted without the cone. If yes, is it possible to operate the controls on the shutter? If the controls cannot be operated, you need a board that is not as deep.

Kumar

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 19:21

Why not just call or visit the people in Crows Nest, they are listed as the AU Linhof distributor on the factory site?

Hey Bob,

I have called, no answer, so left an email.

It seems that this might take some fishing around.

I will let you know how I go.

Cheers.

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 19:27

It seems maybe if I can find a measurement in mm of the Lindhof 001016, I may be able to confidently buy off eBay. See below reply from eBay store.

202324

Bob Salomon

6-Apr-2020, 19:29

Hey Bob,

Pardon me if this is obvious, but after researching and googling for a 001016 Lindhof board, I cant seem to find this model anywhere! At all!

What I've found is a few eBay sellers which are selling what seems to possibly be the correct one, but hard to be certain, right? (See two eBay links below)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-19mm-Recessed-Lens-Board-Copal-0-For-Ebony-Linhof-Chamonix-Wista-4x5-Camera/173487554154?hash=item2864a9fe6a:g:NFYAAOSwJ69bfRfv

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Copal-0-19mm-Recessed-Lens-Board-For-Linhof-Technika-Chamonix-Wista-4x5-Camera/273820977982?hash=item3fc1008b3e:g:aO4AAOSwBKBcqc3r

There are also two products from the Lindhof Studio in the UK, both have comfort board in the description, but not the 001016 product number?

https://www.linhofstudio.com/products/Linhof-Lensboards/Linhof_21mm_Deep_Recessed_Comfort_Lensboard

https://www.linhofstudio.com/products/Linhof-Lensboards/Linhof_Comfort_Recessed_Lensboard_with_QRS

Then there's is a 001015 Lensboard on B&H (Extremely expensive compared to the others), but again, the wrong product number?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/31360-REG/Linhof_001015_Recessed_Lensboard_with_Quicksocket.html

Another option, is do I buy a new lens, with is what looks like the correct board already attached, and sell my old one?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MINT-Schneider-Super-Angulon-75mm-f5-6-MC-Lens-4x5-Board-Case-from-Japan-883/233546786809

Thanks again for all your help, I really appreciate it.

Nick

The 001015 was the recessed board for Compur 0 shutters only. Originally 001016 was the recessed board for Copal shutters only.
After Prontor discontinued all mechanical shutters, including their Compur shutters, the 001016 was changed to accept both Copal and Compur 0 shutters. That board became the current 001016 Comfort board.

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 19:34

The 001015 was the recessed board for Compur 0 shutters only. Originally 001016 was the recessed board for Copal shutters only.
After Prontor discontinued all mechanical shutters, including their Compur shutters, the 001016 was changed to accept both Copal and Compur 0 shutters. That board became the current 001016 Comfort board.

Ah, it makes total sense.

Thanks for clarifying Bob.

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 19:34

Would anyone happen to know how many mm, the 001016 Lindhof board is recessed?

Thanks in advance.

Bob Salomon

6-Apr-2020, 19:36

Hey Bob,

Pardon me if this is obvious, but after researching and googling for a 001016 Lindhof board, I cant seem to find this model anywhere! At all!

What I've found is a few eBay sellers which are selling what seems to possibly be the correct one, but hard to be certain, right? (See two eBay links below)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-19mm-Recessed-Lens-Board-Copal-0-For-Ebony-Linhof-Chamonix-Wista-4x5-Camera/173487554154?hash=item2864a9fe6a:g:NFYAAOSwJ69bfRfv

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Copal-0-19mm-Recessed-Lens-Board-For-Linhof-Technika-Chamonix-Wista-4x5-Camera/273820977982?hash=item3fc1008b3e:g:aO4AAOSwBKBcqc3r

There are also two products from the Lindhof Studio in the UK, both have comfort board in the description, but not the 001016 product number?

https://www.linhofstudio.com/products/Linhof-Lensboards/Linhof_21mm_Deep_Recessed_Comfort_Lensboard

https://www.linhofstudio.com/products/Linhof-Lensboards/Linhof_Comfort_Recessed_Lensboard_with_QRS

Then there's is a 001015 Lensboard on B&H (Extremely expensive compared to the others), but again, the wrong product number?

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/31360-REG/Linhof_001015_Recessed_Lensboard_with_Quicksocket.html

Another option, is do I buy a new lens, with is what looks like the correct board already attached, and sell my old one?

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MINT-Schneider-Super-Angulon-75mm-f5-6-MC-Lens-4x5-Board-Case-from-Japan-883/233546786809

Thanks again for all your help, I really appreciate it.

Nick

Looks like Linhof has changed the number back to 001015. So you need the 001015 Comfort Board.

Sorry for the confusion.

Here is the Linhof catalog page for it.

http://linhof.com/en/comfort-technika-objektivplatte/

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 19:39

Looks like Linhof has changed the number back to 001015. So you need the 001015 Comfort Board.

Sorry for the confusion.

Here is the Linhof catalog page for it.

http://linhof.com/en/comfort-technika-objektivplatte/

Ah Ha!

No problems Bob. Thanks again.

I will probably look for a second hand or aftermarket one, as my budget for a new one is not there.

Any tips on if I got a board that didn't have the "comfort" controls?

I am totally happy to use something small to more the dials around as I am not fussy.

As long as the cable release sits properly and fires ill be happy.

Cheers Bob.

Bob Salomon

6-Apr-2020, 19:59

Ah Ha!

No problems Bob. Thanks again.

I will probably look for a second hand or aftermarket one, as my budget for a new one is not there.

Any tips on if I got a board that didn't have the "comfort" controls?

I am totally happy to use something small to more the dials around as I am not fussy.

As long as the cable release sits properly and fires ill be happy.

Cheers Bob.
Bite the bullet and get the correct board. It will make operating the shutter much more convenient and easier,

Bernice Loui

6-Apr-2020, 20:28

Hello,

This reply is never intended to be mean, destructive or insulting..

Know one of the very real limitations of a camera like Linhof TKM is wide angle lenses.

To use a wide angle lens like 75mm and shorter required a recessed lens board. Compounding the problem with using a recessed board is the small size of the TKM lens board this restricts the diameter of the recess limits access to the shutter controls of a wide angle lens. I've never been OK with using a recessed lens board on any view camera as this forces a list of limitations:

*Camera movement in a TKM.
*Possible need to drop the bed to prevent the front of the bed from appearing in the image.
*Focusing the lens due to the front standard being so compressed into the camera.
*Accessing the shutter speed and aperture ring with a recessed board can be a real problem. This is why Bob recommends the "Comfort board"
as it WILL make a very real difference in trying to use a lens in a recessed lens board. This is a GOOD recommendation based on making this lens user-easier.

You're essentially stuck with this list and maybe a few more trade-offs that are a fixed-given due to the camera choice.
An alternative would be to use a longer focal length lens say 90mm and stay away from any lens of shorter focal length.
Another alternative is to consider another camera that does not have the innate libations of the TKM design.

Bernice

Ah Ha!

No problems Bob. Thanks again.

I will probably look for a second hand or aftermarket one, as my budget for a new one is not there.

Any tips on if I got a board that didn't have the "comfort" controls?

I am totally happy to use something small to more the dials around as I am not fussy.

As long as the cable release sits properly and fires ill be happy.

Cheers Bob.

Corran

6-Apr-2020, 20:44

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 20:46

Hello,

This reply is never intended to be mean, destructive or insulting..

Know one of the very real limitations of a camera like Linhof TKM is wide angle lenses.

To use a wide angle lens like 75mm and shorter required a recessed lens board. Compounding the problem with using a recessed board is the small size of the TKM lens board this restricts the diameter of the recess limits access to the shutter controls of a wide angle lens. I've never been OK with using a recessed lens board on any view camera as this forces a list of limitations:

*Camera movement in a TKM.
*Possible need to drop the bed to prevent the front of the bed from appearing in the image.
*Focusing the lens due to the front standard being so compressed into the camera.
*Accessing the shutter speed and aperture ring with a recessed board can be a real problem. This is why Bob recommends the "Comfort board"
as it WILL make a very real difference in trying to use a lens in a recessed lens board. This is a GOOD recommendation based on making this lens user-easier.

You're essentially stuck with this list and maybe a few more trade-offs that are a fixed-given due to the camera choice.
An alternative would be to use a longer focal length lens say 90mm and stay away from any lens of shorter focal length.
Another alternative is to consider another camera that does not have the innate libations of the TKM design.

Bernice

Hey Bernice,

Thanks for the info mate, I appreciate it.

If we were to talk 90mm's, what would be some that you recommend?

Thanks,

nban1991

6-Apr-2020, 20:52

75mm is a tough focal length for the Master Technika.

I suggest you get one of the many cheap non-Technika recessed boards available on eBay or elsewhere with a moderate amount of recess. The board you have I believe was made for a 90mm and the design is somewhat specific so that the lens could sit at a certain place on the rails.

Another option would be to remove the inner "cone" and fabricate a flat replacement piece with the correct hole in it to go in its place. A friend with some machinist skills could do this in no time flat, or if you don't mind something rough but functional you could probably make something out of wood.

The Linhof-brand boards, new, are absolutely ridiculous rip-offs and not needed to shoot your camera/lens satisfactorily.

Hey Corran,

If I can make the 75mm work I will. As I said it was a lens that I inherited and is an amazing one at that. I obviously until now have just been blinded thinking that the lensboard I was using would somehow accommodate it.

I've worked out that the recess is 12mm, the info I have got straight from the 'official' 001015 Linhof recessed boards. I think I'm going to try one off eBay, and if then it proves too difficult, I will fall on my own sword knowing that I was told this would happen.

Bernice Loui

6-Apr-2020, 21:25

Given this is a folder...
90mm f8 SW Nikkor. or similar f8 modern wide angle design.
f8 lenses are usually not a problem to focus as folders are typically used outdoors in bright enough light.

The larger aperture wide angle lenses don't work well at all on a TKM, been there done this.
IMO, a 90mm on 4x5 is easily wide enough for the majority of wide angle images on 4x5, but this does depends on your print image goals.

Bernice

Hey Bernice,

Thanks for the info mate, I appreciate it.

If we were to talk 90mm's, what would be some that you recommend?

Thanks,

nban1991

7-Apr-2020, 00:16

Given this is a folder...
90mm f8 SW Nikkor. or similar f8 modern wide angle design.
f8 lenses are usually not a problem to focus as folders are typically used outdoors in bright enough light.

The larger aperture wide angle lenses don't work well at all on a TKM, been there done this.
IMO, a 90mm on 4x5 is easily wide enough for the majority of wide angle images on 4x5, but this does depends on your print image goals.

Bernice

Thanks for the hint Bernice.

What have you make of the Schneider SA 90mm XL 5.6 or non-XL version??

Thanks

nban1991

7-Apr-2020, 04:19

Bite the bullet and get the correct board. It will make operating the shutter much more convenient and easier,

Hey Bob,

Say I purchased the proper lens board for the 75mm, would there be any fall off around the edges (thinking ahead if a center filter would be needed)?

Thanks.

Nick

Bob Salomon

7-Apr-2020, 06:23

Hey Bob,

Say I purchased the proper lens board for the 75mm, would there be any fall off around the edges (thinking ahead if a center filter would be needed)?

Thanks.

Nick

All modern wa lenses have fall off and all can benefit from a cf. the faster versions will show less fall off as they cover a larger circle then the slower ones so the fall off starts farther out from the center.

Dan Fromm

7-Apr-2020, 06:57

All modern wa lenses have fall off and all can benefit from a cf. the faster versions will show less fall off as they cover a larger circle then the slower ones so the fall off starts farther out from the center.

Stuff and nonsense. Cos^4 rules, is the same value for the same angle off axis for all lenses.

Bob Salomon

7-Apr-2020, 06:58

Stuff and nonsense. Cos^4 rules, is the same value for the same angle off axis for all lenses.

No nonsense, the larger the circle the further out it starts.

Dan Fromm

7-Apr-2020, 07:27

No nonsense, the larger the circle the further out it starts.

I've done the calculations. Have you?

Bernice Loui

7-Apr-2020, 07:34

Neither, there is already a struggle with the 75mm f5.6. The 90mm f5.6 or larger aperture lenses are BIGGER. Yes, the back focus distance is longer with a 90mm which might aid in this problem, but this is a folder camera which does not completely benefit from the slightly larger image circle over a f8 90mm. One some what in-between is the Rodenstock 90mm f6.8.

None of which will make your images "that" much better once all other variables (camera support, film, processing, print making and a LOT more) are accounted for. In real world image making with modern wide angle lenses, it is not worth the struggle to try for that projection of an ideal wide angle lens. Get a f8 or f6.8 90mm modern wide angle and move on.

If you're really serious about getting the absolute most out of a modern wide angle lens.. get a monorail camera with a bag bellows. This can and will address every limitation imposed by a folder.

Bernice

Thanks for the hint Bernice.

What have you make of the Schneider SA 90mm XL 5.6 or non-XL version??

Thanks

Corran

7-Apr-2020, 07:40

Thanks for the hint Bernice.

What have you make of the Schneider SA 90mm XL 5.6 or non-XL version??

Thanks

I have both the Nikkor 90mm f/8 as well as the Schneider 90mm XL, and have used both on my Linhof Master Technika, as well as other 4x5 cameras.

I would never bring the giant Schneider out in the woods where I'm schlepping gear long distances. However if I'm shooting architecture and not carrying things very far, and want a bit brighter image on the ground glass and perhaps a bit more image circle, I'll bring the XL.

Your question about CF's has been asked a lot, and some of the opinions presented will be highly subjective. Whether or not you need it depends on your shooting habits and sensibilities.

Here's a shot from my Linhof MT and 90XL from a few weeks ago:

http://www.esearing.com/Bryan/AV/photosharing/dahlonegaarch-5315ss.jpg

nban1991

7-Apr-2020, 09:23

Neither, there is already a struggle with the 75mm f5.6. The 90mm f5.6 or larger aperture lenses are BIGGER. Yes, the back focus distance is longer with a 90mm which might aid in this problem, but this is a folder camera which does not completely benefit from the slightly larger image circle over a f8 90mm. One some what in-between is the Rodenstock 90mm f6.8.

None of which will make your images "that" much better once all other variables (camera support, film, processing, print making and a LOT more) are accounted for. In real world image making with modern wide angle lenses, it is not worth the struggle to try for that projection of an ideal wide angle lens. Get a f8 or f6.8 90mm modern wide angle and move on.

If you're really serious about getting the absolute most out of a modern wide angle lens.. get a monorail camera with a bag bellows. This can and will address every limitation imposed by a folder.

Bernice

Hi there Bernice,

Thanks for the advice.

Do you mind me asking which lens board the 90 6.8 needs on a technica?

nban1991

7-Apr-2020, 09:25

I have both the Nikkor 90mm f/8 as well as the Schneider 90mm XL, and have used both on my Linhof Master Technika, as well as other 4x5 cameras.

I would never bring the giant Schneider out in the woods where I'm schlepping gear long distances. However if I'm shooting architecture and not carrying things very far, and want a bit brighter image on the ground glass and perhaps a bit more image circle, I'll bring the XL.

Your question about CF's has been asked a lot, and some of the opinions presented will be highly subjective. Whether or not you need it depends on your shooting habits and sensibilities.

Here's a shot from my Linhof MT and 90XL from a few weeks ago:

http://www.esearing.com/Bryan/AV/photosharing/dahlonegaarch-5315ss.jpg

Hey Corran,

Beautiful image mate.

Just wondering what image boards the Schneider 90 Xl and Nikkor 90 8 use on the technica?

Thanks you!

Corran

7-Apr-2020, 09:35

nban1991

7-Apr-2020, 13:51

My Nikkor 90mm is on a recessed board, a Gaorsi-brand board that I bought after getting fed up with the crappy Linhof QR system on a Linhof board I bought second-hand. Linhof recessed boards suck...IMO.

The 90mm XL is on a flat board.

Thanks, btw!

Hey Corran,

How about fixing the XL to the MT. Does it require the back element be taken off to mount?

Cheers

Bob Salomon

7-Apr-2020, 13:56

Hey Corran,

How about fixing the XL to the MT. Does it require the back element be taken off to mount?

Cheers

Of course it does, unless you have the one with the removable ring on the back of the lens.

Vaughn

7-Apr-2020, 14:11

...Your question about CF's has been asked a lot, and some of the opinions presented will be highly subjective. Whether or not you need it depends on your shooting habits and sensibilities. Here's a shot from my Linhof MT and 90XL from a few weeks ago:
Good point Bryan. Image drop-off can be used as part of the image -- saves one from burning the corners in. Your image is one of those.

Corran

7-Apr-2020, 14:57

Hey Corran,

How about fixing the XL to the MT. Does it require the back element be taken off to mount?

Cheers

A bit more info for you - the 90mm XL early on in its production was changed to have a removable rear "shroud." This ring screws in to the end of the rear element housing. The reason this was changed was the rear element didn't fit through the "throat" of the Linhof 4x5 cameras. The trade-off is that without the "shroud" the rear element is exposed, bulging slightly out, so you have to be careful both setting it down somewhere or more commonly, if you were to shove the front element into the camera - it'll impact the ground glass. Ask me how I know...

If you are looking for one, make sure it has that rear removable shroud. While you could, with the older one, take off the rear element, remove the GG, put the lens on all the way back inside the camera housing, screw the rear element back in, move the front standard forward, and put the GG back on - that's a pain in the ass.

Corran

7-Apr-2020, 15:00

Good point Bryan. Image drop-off can be used as part of the image -- saves one from burning the corners in. Your image is one of those.

Yes, I really don't understand the view from some here that one should be using a CF at all times regardless - especially on a 90mm which has very little fall-off to begin with on 4x5.

I will admit that the lack of a CF on my 47mm XL recently while shooting color negative created an image that, for me, was unprintable in the DR, but I also had about 30 seconds to setup and shoot so too bad. The b&w shot was fine and printed easily. Of course the 47mm XL will have tons more fall-off than a 90mm.

nban1991

7-Apr-2020, 15:53

A bit more info for you - the 90mm XL early on in its production was changed to have a removable rear "shroud." This ring screws in to the end of the rear element housing. The reason this was changed was the rear element didn't fit through the "throat" of the Linhof 4x5 cameras. The trade-off is that without the "shroud" the rear element is exposed, bulging slightly out, so you have to be careful both setting it down somewhere or more commonly, if you were to shove the front element into the camera - it'll impact the ground glass. Ask me how I know...

If you are looking for one, make sure it has that rear removable shroud. While you could, with the older one, take off the rear element, remove the GG, put the lens on all the way back inside the camera housing, screw the rear element back in, move the front standard forward, and put the GG back on - that's a pain in the ass.

I agree that it might be a too hard basket for the 90 XL.

I've come across the Sinar sinaron W 90mm f4.5. Does anyone have any thoughts on this lens, or have used it at all?

Thanks again.

Bob Salomon

7-Apr-2020, 15:58

I agree that it might be a too hard basket for the 90 XL.

I've come across the Sinar sinaron W 90mm f4.5. Does anyone have any thoughts on this lens, or have used it at all?

Thanks again.
It’s the Rodenstock 90mm 4.5 Grandagon N. No problem on the Technika except it requires a flat board with a 1 hole. Won’t fit a recessed as the shutter is too big.

Bernice Loui

7-Apr-2020, 16:01

Curious, why the need for f4.5 or f5.6 90mm on this folder when the image making advantages are not really significant?
Typical taking aperture is f11 and smaller. Granted the f4.5 or f5.6 might be easier to focus in low light conditions, but the trade off
is a BIG lens for a folder.

On center filters.. only incidences I've found they are really needed is color transparencies that cannot tolerate any light fall off combined with using the available image circle to it's limits. With a 90mm modern wide angle on 4x5, majority of B&W film negatives combined with modest camera movements, no CF is good enough.

Bernice

I agree that it might be a too hard basket for the 90 XL.

I've come across the Sinar sinaron W 90mm f4.5. Does anyone have any thoughts on this lens, or have used it at all?

Thanks again.

nban1991

7-Apr-2020, 16:05

Curious, why the need for f4.5 or f5.6 90mm on this folder when the image making advantages are not really significant?
Typical taking aperture is f11 and smaller. Granted the f4.5 or f5.6 might be easier to focus in low light conditions, but the trade off
is a BIG lens for a folder.

On center filters.. only incidences I've found they are really needed is color transparencies that cannot tolerate any light fall off combined with using the available image circle to it's limits. With a 90mm modern wide angle on 4x5, majority of B&W film negatives combined with modest camera movements, no CF is good enough.

Bernice

Hey Bernice,

I hear you, for me, Id prefer a clearer brighter image on the GG if it means sacrifice of a large lens.

Obviously being new to the game, can you give me some reasons why a 'BIG lens for a folder might have negative impacts', as long as it fits the camera, allows some movements and can focus properly sitting on the rails?

Thanks

Corran

7-Apr-2020, 16:12

Nikkor 90mm f/8
360 grams (12.7 oz)
67mm filter size

Nikkor 90mm f/4.5
600 grams (21.2 oz)
82mm filter size

Schneider 90mm XL
665 grams (23.5 oz)
95mm filter size

Only difference here is size, weight, and filter size. Your choices are dictated by those considerations. There will be a marginal difference in image circle and sharpness, not enough to warrant much thought unless that's super important to you.

There's no right answer, and no reason not to use any of these on your Linhof. Note the Master Technika specifically has the latches on the top to facilitate gross movements with 90mm lenses, such as one uses for architecture. I also have a monorail and use it occasionally, but the Linhof is smaller and easier to use. Other than very extreme rise with my 72mm XL, there's not a whole lot the Toyo GII I have (with bag bellows) brings to the table that the Linhof can't handle. For a new LF user though, it is vastly cheaper, but since you already have a Linhof there's nothing stopping you from shooting pretty much anything with it.

LabRat

7-Apr-2020, 16:30

On a faster 90mm, the lens grows in size, maybe too large rear to fit on front and rear of FS... (It gets tight with larger lenses on mine...)

The 75mm is tough to use on a Tek, as the FS tends to ride between the inner and outer tracks, and bigger issue when bed drop is used... A 65mm will ride on the inner rails inside camera, but a 90mm will ride on the bed tracks (in drop bed mode), so normal focus action...

The present recessed board might be machined to thin it from the rear for more space for lens mounting...

Steve K

nban1991

7-Apr-2020, 16:33