New Bergger Print Film Question?

[LFLarry]

QUESTION: If I project my 35mm film negative via my enlarger to some 8x10 Bergger Print film, I assume I will get a positive which then, in turn, needs to be contact printed to get an 8x10 negative. Am I getting this correct for making a new enlarged negative?

Assuming I am correct, what is the point of the new Bergger Print film then? I can make enlarged negatives with Ortho film in the same two steps and for cheaper. Help me understand what I am missing?


Thank you.

[Payral]

You are right about how to make an enlarged negative. If you want to know what is the difference between Bergger Print Film and some other Ortho film is very easy. Make an enlarged negative from the same 35mm film negative with both ortho films and you will get your answer.

[koraks]

Assuming I am correct, what is the point of the new Bergger Print film then? I can make enlarged negatives with Ortho film in the same two steps and for cheaper. Help me understand what I am missing?

The point of the Bergger product, the way I see it, is that due to its slow speed, it is more appropriate for use under an enlarger, as faster materials (e.g. 25-50 ISO ortho film) require very short exposures which may be challenging and preclude burning/dodging.

Of course there are all kinds of variations to the process of getting from a 35mm negative to a large format negative. The interpositive route you describe is one, and you could in that process of course also enlarge 35mm to 4x5" interpositive and then further enlarge the 4x5" interpositive to an 8x10" (or whatever size you fancy) negative. For this you could use any combination of Bergger Print Film and/or regular ortho film or even normal pan film or xray film.
Another route would be a direct duplicate negative through reversal processing, but this requires some calibration of exposures and reversal development chemistry/processing.

[LFLarry]

Very helpful reply, thank you very much. I just ordered some 4x5 and 8x10 to do exactly as you described to enlarge from 35mm to 4x5 and then from 4x5 to 8x10. I am excited to give this a try. I really like that I can control the contrast with a regular film developer like D76 by development time versus paper developer dilution with Ortho film for example. My plan is to try and make some 8x10 negatives sutiable for platinum printing and another one for silver gelatin contact prints.

I am excited to see how things go.

Thank again.



The point of the Bergger product, the way I see it, is that due to its slow speed, it is more appropriate for use under an enlarger, as faster materials (e.g. 25-50 ISO ortho film) require very short exposures which may be challenging and preclude burning/dodging.

Of course there are all kinds of variations to the process of getting from a 35mm negative to a large format negative. The interpositive route you describe is one, and you could in that process of course also enlarge 35mm to 4x5" interpositive and then further enlarge the 4x5" interpositive to an 8x10" (or whatever size you fancy) negative. For this you could use any combination of Bergger Print Film and/or regular ortho film or even normal pan film or xray film.
Another route would be a direct duplicate negative through reversal processing, but this requires some calibration of exposures and reversal development chemistry/processing.

[Drew Wiley]

Ive used both TMX100 and FP4 for this kind of application. Being panchromatic, you have to work under total darkness, but it also means you can generate black and white negatives from color film originals too.

[peter schrager]

I've already tried out the print film and attest to the high quality of the product. It works under normal safelight and has a clear base when fixed. Very stable and very scratch resistant...class A product!

[peter schrager]

LFLARRY did you purchase in the states?? Where?

[LFLarry]

Hi, I purchashed from the Bergger USA website and it was delivered in just a few days. Getting ready to start testing this week.



I've already tried out the print film and attest to the high quality of the product. It works under normal safelight and has a clear base when fixed. Very stable and very scratch resistant...class A product!

[LFLarry]

Peter, what developer did you use? I plan to use D-76.

What was your application of the print film? Making duplicate or enlarged negatives? What type of prints did you make?



I've already tried out the print film and attest to the high quality of the product. It works under normal safelight and has a clear base when fixed. Very stable and very scratch resistant...class A product!

[bob carnie]

For the first step do a contact of the original.. your final negative will be sharper.

[peter schrager]

Peter, what developer did you use? I plan to use D-76.

What was your application of the print film? Making duplicate or enlarged negatives? What type of prints did you make?
I always use diluted hc110. Heres why: when you use this developer you always know what you get. I'm using 1:47 always use a high dilution but write down exactly what you do so its repeated again. Developing times are around 5 minutes for the internegatives then I contact print the internegatives and develop in pyro for homemade POP EMULSION PRINTS

[bob carnie]

I always use diluted hc110. Heres why: when you use this developer you always know what you get. I'm using 1:47 always use a high dilution but write down exactly what you do so its repeated again. Developing times are around 5 minutes for the internegatives then I contact print the internegatives and develop in pyro for homemade POP EMULSION PRINTS

Pete is right on , for this film HC110 is the right developer, I use it for the Rollie , Ilford and now Berrger Ortho film , and I used it back in the day to make my film positives and negatives.

[LFLarry]

Thanks Bob. That is comforting to know. Much appreciated.

Larry

[LFLarry]

I always use diluted hc110. Heres why: when you use this developer you always know what you get. I'm using 1:47 always use a high dilution but write down exactly what you do so its repeated again. Developing times are around 5 minutes for the internegatives then I contact print the internegatives and develop in pyro for homemade POP EMULSION PRINTS

Hi Peter. I wanted to clarify.

Are you using HC-110 for both the inter-positive and inter-negative at the 1:47 dilution for about 5 min?

I assume you’re developing in trays but wanted to confirm?

In terms of contrast for your homemade POP prints, how do they compare to silver gelatin and Platinum?

Thanks

Larry

[pruts]

Anybody can suggest a devellopper to get positives with normal contrast ? Thx

[Ethan]

Anybody can suggest a devellopper to get positives with normal contrast ? Thx

Most developers can be used to create any contrast you want. the way film processing works is that the exposure sets where your least exposed area is, and the amount of time you develop it for places your densest area. If you want less contrast, expose the film bit less and develop a bit longer. if you want more contrast, expose the film a bit more and develop a bit less.

This basic principle is what Ansel Adams developed the Zone System based on, if you want to know all the technical details I suggest you read his book The Negative.

[pruts]

I am Belgian photographer. I bought a large roll printfilm of Bergger. I read the info on using HC110 ( concentration 1:47 for 5 minutes ). Are there any photographers that have more info on using different recepies for devellopping this printfilm and have normal contrast on large positives. Thx for reading and have fun.

[MarcoLeoncino]

I am Belgian photographer. I bought a large roll printfilm of Bergger. I read the info on using HC110 ( concentration 1:47 for 5 minutes ). Are there any photographers that have more info on using different recepies for devellopping this printfilm and have normal contrast on large positives. Thx for reading and have fun.

May you please give me some details about the way to cut the film in the darkroom, to make sheet films of the wished sizes?
How do you do that to avoid scratches and dust?
Any hint would be really appreciated!