Help request - Ilex #3 bulb and time not working

[marcookie]

Hello,

the Ilex shutter on my Artar Wide Angle Dagor 6 1/5 inches stopped working all of a sudden.

Background story:
Nothing was working properly. Regardless of the setting, the shutter was operating at the same speed (roughly 1/50 of a second or so). I opened the lens and found, as expected, some old lubrication on several components. I cleaned all parts with a brush and some acetone. This resurrected all shutter speeds. The slow speeds are running 20-30% slower but they are consistent.

The problem:
However, bulb and time are not working. The shutter fires are about 1/50 s in either B or T mode.
Attaching some picture of the lens (not the best pictures, sorry).

Anyone faced the same problem? Any suggestion on what to do? Very fascinating mechanism.
Thanks

https://i.ibb.co/qFpnsTw/DSCF6988.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/tCwK24y/DSCF6990.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/1ftZ2Fv/DSCF6989.jpg

Top and middle levers indicated by blue arrows have to do with T and B, bottom lever in red regulates the times (from 1 s to 1/200 s)
https://i.ibb.co/r6mwthQ/Capture.jpg

[marcookie]

How the story ended:

after thoroughly cleaning the lens again with acetone, the mechanism was running even smoother and then the bulb mode started working again. It has been working consistently since. The time is not working but it is not a big deal.

Be careful that the shutter blades are coated with a paint that is stripped away with acetone. The solvated paint was jamming the aperture blades. I had to remove the paint completely. Since I had the lens open and the mechanism looks so cool, I took a picture with my 8x10. Note that the shutter blades are mostly uncoated now.

https://i.ibb.co/31pSXq1/Untitled-2.jpg

[Duolab123]

I use Kodak movie film cleaner. It's an old, now banned, CFC-113. I just squirt about a milliliter at a time. Once I have the shutter working, I close the shutter blades and drip drop by drop directly on the blades. This helps to remove any oil from the blades.

[Jim Noel]

I might be guilty of putting acetone, or other solvent, on the shutter parts, but never on the lens.

[marcookie]

I use Kodak movie film cleaner. It's an old, now banned, CFC-113. I just squirt about a milliliter at a time. Once I have the shutter working, I close the shutter blades and drip drop by drop directly on the blades. This helps to remove any oil from the blades.

Probably this solvent is not as aggressive as acetone on the coated blades (although more aggressive on the ozone layer!!!).

Now the uncoated blades are more reflective than with the original matte black coating, which could increase flare in the lens.

[mdarnton]

I suspect that the only place that needs anything are the several pivots and parts that slide against each other right where your top arrow is. A couple of drops of odorless paint thinner or lighter fluid or kerosene right there may well do the trick. It has for me in the past when this has happened. Don't go spraying everything like a skunk; it's not needed and will just make a mess of things.

[Michael Filler]

I had the same problem with No 5 shutter. There is an escapement lever, allowed to move only when the disk is set to B or T. The tab on the escapement was worn, sitting too low, so a thin washer under it was enough to bring the tab back into the slot of the speed setting ring. The washer was less than 1mm thick.