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PatrickMarq
18-Mar-2020, 06:43
All, I need help to start developing my own Delta 100.

With the corona virus here in Belgium almost everything is closed and also my labo, and I’m stuck with about 40 - 4X5 negatives that must be ready before end of April. Scannend and one print.

So my local store (www.retrocamera.be) sells on-line Ilford Ilfotec DD-X does anyone have some experience with this, if so can you provide me quick/ dummy howto to develop my negatives.
And also what kind of fixer, and the total amount of liquids I need.

A lot of questions ....

Thanks
Patrick
:confused:

BrianShaw
18-Mar-2020, 06:52
I use DD-X for Ilford films, FP-4 and HP-5.

The best guidance is provided in the Ilford “how-to” literature. Google it and read... it’s comprehensive, easily understandable, and you’ll really appreciate how supportive Ilford is to photographers.

Two23
18-Mar-2020, 06:54
There are very good YouTube videos I suggest.


Kent in SD

PatrickMarq
18-Mar-2020, 07:17
Thank you, Going to start google it

BrianShaw
18-Mar-2020, 07:21
How are you processing: tank, tray, ???

Gary Beasley
18-Mar-2020, 09:14
Cheapest way in is a set of small trays to develop in, it’ll also give you an appreciation for the old ways of doing things. When I first started I processed 620 roll film in a tray dip processing, following instructions from photography books from the library.

Mark Sawyer
18-Mar-2020, 10:18
Step One: Go shoot a few negatives to practice on the first time...

PatrickMarq
18-Mar-2020, 10:18
Stearman Press SP-445, because I don’t have a darkroom or can build-it :-(

PatrickMarq
18-Mar-2020, 10:21
Step One: Go shoot a few negatives to practice on the first time...

Yes, that was my idea. Some of the images are impossible to recreate, they are from demolition of a boat. The last of it’s line.
First learning how to load film in the Stearman Press tank, after that some test images for processing.

John Kasaian
18-Mar-2020, 10:22
Mix your chemicals and have clean bottles for storing your stock solutions----i got my bottles for free from a local pharmacy as cough syrup concentrate came in them and they just get tossed afterwards. You'll need a graduate cylinder but I've used a plastic measuring pitcher from a kitchen supply aisle at the grocery store as long as it is marked in the appropriate value, and probably a stirring wand(a long swizzle stick---the only thing useful to come out of the Tiki Bar craze)
You can use water for your "stop" when developing film, but you'll want a proper stop for printing.
Kitty litter trays can be used as developing trays in a pinch.

PatrickMarq
18-Mar-2020, 10:26
All, Thank you for the good tips. Normally Google is my friend, but I think I just panict.

To learn to develop all those film in a short time and don’t make mistakes....
After some searching I found all the information, and ordered all materials. Now hoping they deliver in time

Patrick

Doremus Scudder
18-Mar-2020, 11:31
Step One: Go shoot a few negatives to practice on the first time...

Very wise and important advice!

First, read up, watch some videos and decide what developing method you are going to use. I develop in trays and like it very much, but it takes some practice, especially if you are going to develop in batches (I like 5-6 negatives per batch). There are tanks that may be good as well, but you may have to order them from the U.S.

Since time is obviously a factor for you, so I recommend you learn tray developing. It'll take an afternoon or two.

You'll need developer, stop and fix (you can use a water bath for stop, but an acid stop is a lot better IM-HO).

Any standard developer you can lay your hands on easily will work fine. Ilford ID-11 (D-76) is a standard. DD-X should be fine too.

Any standard rapid fix will be fine too; use as directed (Ilford Hypam or Rapid Fixer, Tetenal Rapid Fix, etc.)

Your dealer should have some stop bath as well; any stop bath will work.

If you decide to tray develop, get 5x7 trays (or 8x10 trays, but I find the 5x7 trays easier to work with). Paterson trays are really nice. You'll need at least four trays; five is better: Pre-soak, developer, stop, fix, wash. Everything needs to be done in total darkness till you're halfway through the fix, at which time you could dump developer and re-purpose the tray for the wash; still, five trays is really nice.

Sacrifice a couple of sheets of film and practice your batch-processing routine. Practice in a tray of water (like your pre-soak will be). Sheet film sticks together if you just put them all in the water at one time; they need about ten seconds or so to soak before the next sheet goes in (hence the need for a pre-soak before the development).

Process emulsion-side-up. Agitate your film by shuffling; pull one sheet from the bottom of the stack, turn it 180° and then resubmerge it. Here's where you need to practice so that you pull the bottom sheet without scratching it or others and lay it back down in the solution flat so you don't stab the sheet under it with a corner and scratch it. Practice with lights on, then with eyes closed, then with lights out.

After a short time, you'll have the hang of it. Then develop some test negs. Don't develop important stuff till you've done this and you're confident with your abilities. You'll need to practice lifting the stack out of one tray and then re-submerging it in the next. I like to fan the negatives out in my hand like a hand of cards and immerse them one-by-one for the development and stop, but often just transfer the whole stack from stop to fix and then shuffle through it. Practice...

Hope this helps,

Doremus

BrianShaw
18-Mar-2020, 11:38
Stearman Press SP-445, because I don’t have a darkroom or can build-it :-(

That’s what I’ve been using. Very easy. I don’t process a lot so for every 4 films... 450 ml of DD-X 1+4, 450 mil Ilfostop, 450 mil Ilford rapid fix... and about 1 gallon of water to rinse. One shot.

I’m sure that since you have a lot more to process that you can reuse chemistry to some degree or another. At least the stop since it has indicator.

The biggest challenge you may have is the downtime so the racks and tank can get dry before loading again.

jeffsweet
19-Mar-2020, 07:40
Maybe look into Diafine? I know it's not the most exciting developer, but it's reusable so you don't have to worry about burning through your supply of chemistry as you learn and get the hang of the other parts of the process.

PatrickMarq
23-Mar-2020, 04:38
Ok, I have just done the development of my two test images and it’s a success.
I have followed the YouTube instruction of Ilford. The loading of the thank is quite easy, it leaks a bit but I suppose that’s just getting to know it.
Now I can start tomorrow on the ‘real’ images, 4 each day.

One last question, the video says you can reuse the fixer, but it don’t say howmany times and if I need to change te time then.

Thanks for all you help

PatrickMarq
23-Mar-2020, 06:16
Never mind, just found the information
https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?26357-Can-I-reuse-fixer/page2

BrianShaw
23-Mar-2020, 06:17
You need to read up on fixer life. It’s a balance of quantity vs amount of film.

Regarding the tank leakage. Heed the “squeeze and seal” directions. It help a lot but doesn’t eliminate all leakage. I stopped inversion and have a side-to-side-while-twisting agitation scheme that works and minimizes leakage at the same time.

Gary Beasley
23-Mar-2020, 07:08
If you have a sink or a decent sized tray do your developing in that and dont worry about the minor leaks. You might want nitrile gloves in case you have any allergies to the developing agents.

PatrickMarq
25-Mar-2020, 02:19
Yesterday I developed the first batch of 4 real films. And they are not so good as the test films, they lack some contrast and the white parts don’t have enough information.
According to the instruction video I have developed 10m35 sec, should I increase the time with one minute. Also I had the impression that the temperature was a bit low 19° instead of 20°.
201981
Just a quick iPhone scan to show the image

David Schaller
25-Mar-2020, 04:38
Yesterday I developed the first batch of 4 real films. And they are not so good as the test films, they lack some contrast and the white parts don’t have enough information.
According to the instruction video I have developed 10m35 sec, should I increase the time with one minute. Also I had the impression that the temperature was a bit low 19° instead of 20°.
201981
Just a quick iPhone scan to show the image

That is just fine. Don’t increase the time. That will only overcook the highlights. You have plenty of shadow detail already.

Cor
25-Mar-2020, 07:56
Do you scan or print ? That negative (hard to judge on a monitor anyway) looks a tad under exposed to me, at what speed did you shoot, and how long did you expose ? You might have been in reciproke teritory..I do not know that Ilford film though. I think a experienced print would be able to make a nice print from your negative though.

Good luck,

Cor

PatrickMarq
25-Mar-2020, 10:04
I scan the negative.
The exposure is F22 1/4”
Normally I never have underexposed images, but you never know.

Luis-F-S
25-Mar-2020, 12:28
That is just fine. Don’t increase the time. That will only overcook the highlights. You have plenty of shadow detail already.

+1 What I'd say. You could make a proper proof to see if your exposure is good if you don't own a densitometer. You can buy Fred Picker's Zone VI workshop at auction for around $5.00 wherein he explains the proper proof. L