My Set Up for Film Holder Labels

[Steven Ruttenberg]

Here is my set up I have been using to label my film holders with removable labels. I put in the upper right corner the film holder number, ie; 1A, 1B, 2A,2B, etc.

How would you label these if you were using them? I will have Office Depot print them since my printer is doa. They are Avery Labels, #5230. 252 labels per pack, 7 labels per sheet.

[C. D. Keth]

I’d do it pretty much the way you did. I used to make magazine labels for 35mm cinema cameras that way. I’d print the template and then take packs of labels to the copy shop and run the labels through the copier. Copy prices are usually cheaper than print prices.


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[Kiwi7475]

I tried this for a while but it didn’t work for me — too cumbersome to write on the holders and always scared I’m going to accidentally open a slide or something.

So I just have them “permanently” labeled with 1A/1B, 2A/2B etc and then I carry a pocket book where I take notes for every picture (aperture, speed, conditions, anything really i may want to know afterwords). I also take a pic with my iPhone so that I can map the holder to the actual scene. Intrepid sells a nice mini book to record pic notes, which I like. In that book I will also carry corrections for shutter speeds for each lens — they’re not way off but I find it particularly useful when exposing slide film since I don’t want to be off by an extra 1/2 stop if I can correct it.

If I carry different film types loaded I will use different color sleeves for the holders indicating eg which ones are FP4+, provia, and Ektar. Or whatever I’m using.

We all develop an approach to make sense and remember what we did. I’m sure others have other equally valid approaches.

[Eric Woodbury]

I don't label my film holders at all, except for film type. I've never been good about notes. I make the image, write on the white strip in soft pencil what the development should be and maybe some little detail. Film type is indicated with a color coded Dymo label, the old plastic kind with de-bossed letters. Blue is FP4, Green is HP5, Yellow is Tech Pan, and Red is Ortho. I also color the outside edge of the darkslide with felt pen of matching color so I can easily grab the film holders I need without reading labels. That's it.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I take good notes, but on one trip, I cycled thru my film holders several times and my notes be am a mess. So I still use labels and take notes. More detailed than I can on the labels. And I can easily match notes to labels, film holders and film.

[6x6TLL]

I label each film holder 1A/1B, 2A/2B, etc and use color coded tape for each set of 8 (I think it's 8 that comes in a Toyo box package), so I have red, yellow, blue, for chrome, negative, and b&w. I too keep a notebook on my smartphone and make note of the date, subject, settings, etc, sometimes snapping a photo with my phone to help remember which frame belongs to which outing.

[esearing]

Its good to have a system especially while learning or changing methods. How do you decide what gets special development? and what if you want to see details six months down the road. I use blue painter tape on the slide and mark the film and number. That corresponds to my 3x5 index card which contains the exposure notes and development notes afterward.

[Bob Salomon]

Well and good. But there is still no way with this system to know which sheet was shot in which side of which holder.

[C. D. Keth]

Well and good. But there is still no way with this system to know which sheet was shot in which side of which holder.

From the OP:


I put in the upper right corner the film holder number, ie; 1A, 1B, 2A,2B, etc.


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[mmerig]

What do Tv and R/F stand for?

[Jim Jones]

Notches to indicate binary numbers filed in the edge of the loading flap can be keyed to external labels. Like many old system it still works well today.

[Doremus Scudder]

My holders are numbered by sheet, i.e., one holder has two numbers: 1-2, 3-4, 5-6, etc. The holders are simply numbered with permanent marker in the small space provided. Each holder has a set of notches filed in the flap that corresponds with the sheet number. This is a Roman numeral system: small round notch = 1, V-shaped notch = 5, square notch = 10, slender vertical notch = 50, large round notch = 100. I don't need more than that. The notches imprint on the rebate area of the film when exposing.

I keep a field notebook with exposure records. Each set up gets at least one record, which contains title, location, date, sheet number(s), film type, exposure info, development info, lens used, filter(s) used, a worksheet for bellows and reciprocity corrections, notes, etc. These I use to organize everything when developing. Later, they get filed together with the negatives and the proof sheets in my negative storage binders.

Best,

Doremus

[C. D. Keth]

large round notch = 100. I don't need more than that.

I'm impressed that you need 100!

[Peter Lewin]

I can’t resist a question for those keeping extensive notes for each exposure: what do you use them for? For myself, the only thing I do is use post-it stickies to mark the rare sheets or holders that need significantly differing processing (N- or N+). Since I use only one film (HP5+), that simplifies things, and I don’t know why I need to remember which lens I used or other settings. But I’m always open to learning better procedures.

[peter schrager]

I can’t resist a question for those keeping extensive notes for each exposure: what do you use them for? For myself, the only thing I do is use post-it stickies to mark the rare sheets or holders that need significantly differing processing (N- or N+). Since I use only one film (HP5+), that simplifies things, and I don’t know why I need to remember which lens I used or other settings. But I’m always open to learning better procedures.
I used to use a form sold by zone vi for exposure but as time went on it became an exercise that was wasted time
I now develop by inspection and most of my exposures are n+1...I do keep a notebook with the date and location
Does one really believe if someone looks at your art that they care if you used the super deluxe woof n poof lens
Never once have I seen it listed in a gallery
Lenses are for taking photos not bragging rights

[Eric Woodbury]

Peter Lewin, that's right with the way I think, too. Also, keeping track takes time. I'd rather make an extra image per day. And as you do, I don't mark "Normal", only odd ones. If exposed and unmarked, then I assume normal. This came about one day when I didn't have a pencil.

[Vaughn]

For when someone asks what lens and f/stop did I use for an image 30 years ago.

PS...got to do something during a 30 minute exposure -- might as well write the notes. LOL!

[Kiwi7475]

I can’t resist a question for those keeping extensive notes for each exposure: what do you use them for? For myself, the only thing I do is use post-it stickies to mark the rare sheets or holders that need significantly differing processing (N- or N+). Since I use only one film (HP5+), that simplifies things, and I don’t know why I need to remember which lens I used or other settings. But I’m always open to learning better procedures.

Definitely to make developing decisions — but also to maybe understand what went wrong with some particular photo.

Beyond that, notes can really clarify whether that subject may not be sharp because of wind or because of miscalculating the aperture, or overexposed for some mistake.... to me it helps learning from mistakes, and also learn from your equipment: that holder is consistently having some leakage issues, that lens is consistently giving me really sharp or great microtonal pictures, that lens is not as sharp as that other one, that filter really works in getting the effect I’m after, etc And your style: what focal lengths I use most, what movements I use and how well executed are they, what decisions do I make in the field in deciding b&w vs color, was that a safety shot, random find, planned, etc

There’s a lot to learn and improve if the notes are written down to give you good information. But in my mind they’re only useful to the photographer him/herself.

[Vaughn]

I have a diary of my photographic efforts...searching through my notebooks (yellow Rite-in-the-Rain field note books, 4.5"x7") for info about a image I made, for example in Yosemite sometime in the 1990s maybe, becomes a small expedition through my personal history...tho I did not start keeping such records until the mid-80s.

One really does not need notes if everything's the same all the time. But change processes, try a different printing style or subject matter, experiment a little, and so forth, then notes come in handy. When I find myself out of my backyard (under the redwoods) and in new light, having the SBR of each scene helps as I develop each sheet (or group them into Expert Drums) for what the final printing process will be (usually pt/pd or carbon transfer).

My volume of exposed negatives is relatively low -- a full day of photographing in the field with the 8x10 and perhaps 3 holders exposed (perhaps 4 to 5 different images) would be a very productive day. So I never feel note-taking slows me down -- and in changing light, the exposures have the right-of-way over note taking, and I'll record from memory ASAP.

[Doremus Scudder]

I'm impressed that you need 100!

I carry 50 holders when I'm on a road trip; that's 100 exposures. Often, I have to change film out to get more exposures than the 100 I started with. Sometimes I'm on the road for two-three months, however.

Best,

Doremus

[Doremus Scudder]

I can’t resist a question for those keeping extensive notes for each exposure: what do you use them for? For myself, the only thing I do is use post-it stickies to mark the rare sheets or holders that need significantly differing processing (N- or N+). Since I use only one film (HP5+), that simplifies things, and I don’t know why I need to remember which lens I used or other settings. But I’m always open to learning better procedures.

I keep notes for several reasons. First, to note date and place and working title of the image. Place is important if I ever want to go back to re-shoot. Film type and indicated development are important too. Exposure is pretty simple; notes for that are usually just something like "shadow under awning" and then an "X" in the appropriate Zone box. I note aperture and shutter speed as well as film-holder number too.

My record forms include places and worksheets for filters, bellows extension factors and reciprocity failure adjustments. The worksheet is handy when using more than one of these at a time.

The forms get filed together with the negatives. If I print the negative, I'll write the final title on the form so that it agrees with my printing records (yes, I have those too :) ).

Best,

Doremus

[6x6TLL]

I started making notes on square post-it notes when I first started with MF.

One sticky note gave me space for 12 lines - one line for each of the 12 6x6 frames, with subject, f/shutter settings, any notes (filter, bounce, flash, over/under exposed compared to meter, etc). Then when I got the films back from developing (or developed the B&W myself) I could look at my notes and see what I had done, and improve my process from roll to roll. I don't think anyone has ever asked me what settings I used either, but I find it invaluable for learning, especially when working in analog where there may be a significant lag between hitting the shutter release and seeing the final developed film.

When I bought a LF camera a year or so ago, I started making notes again (this time on my phone) for exactly the same reason. To learn from each outing, improve my judgement and processes, even identify faulty gear (e.g. light leaking film holders).

I find that it also helps me identify what gear I may need later, f.x. do I really need a set of ND grads, or an orange filter for B&W? Looking at my exposures and notes helps me see if that's what is needed or not.

It takes almost no time (I keep the info minimal, but essential) or effort. It was actually easier with post-it notes because I could then stick them onto the negative sleeve in the binder as a quick reference. The phone is easier in dim light, but I haven't (yet) found a good way to offload the data into something else. Back in the day I actually built a database and put all of my 120 rolls into it, each roll and frame individually indexed with thumbnails of the best shots or anything that had been sold/published. Alas that system ceased to exist when I sold my old NeXT machine. I still have the data somewhere.

With all of that said, all the notes in the world haven't helped make me an incredible photographer, but they have certainly helped me become a better photographer from where I started.

[mmerig]

Most of my photos are work-related (documentation, not art), and location, date, and time are very important, so unless I am on a casual trip, I take a notebook with me. I also record focal length, filter, film type, and f-stop and exposure time. This is a small amount of information compared to other things I have to write down.

[darr]

I have a little memo book I note the date, location, camera, and film number or roll number and any special notes if necessary. That’s it. I transfer some of the info onto the Print File page and record all relevant info into Lightroom after the film has been digitized. I file by date and camera (I use multiple systems) and input metadata for camera, film, lens, location. If I need to know stats on camera, lenses, film usage, etc. I can quickly find out. As an example, what lenses I use the most or least etc.

[Oren Grad]

So I just have them “permanently” labeled with 1A/1B, 2A/2B etc and then I carry a pocket book where I take notes for every picture (aperture, speed, conditions, anything really i may want to know afterwords).

That's what I do, too.

I don't use the information to customize development - I almost always use a standard development time, as I do with roll film. Rather, I find the information useful above all for learning, over time, about how my lenses draw - the effect of aperture on focus transitions, OOF rendering and overall image character, under various subject configurations and lighting conditions. That's how you get to really understand your lenses, in depth so to speak. Of course it's also useful to have exposure details in case something goes wrong and you need to do some troubleshooting.

[PatrickMarq]

I have also written on the holders 1A/1B etc, and afterward I take a picture with the lichtmeter App, there I note the exposure, aperture, lens and holder. And other useful information.

After scanning the negative I put this information in a website (I have created) and from there I can do an exif export and merge it with the tiff file.
This works perfect for me, my own ‘Film Asset Management’. The only problem I have is when doing several exposures of the same subject with different exposures/filters and the film comes back from the lab I have mostly no clue what film came out what holder. But this will resolve itself when I’n going to develop the film myself.

[Salmo22]

I label my film holders as shown on the photo below. I keep a detailed record of each photograph in a separate notebook that fits in my camera case.

201830

201833

[Bob Salomon]

I have also written on the holders 1A/1B etc, and afterward I take a picture with the lichtmeter App, there I note the exposure, aperture, lens and holder. And other useful information.

After scanning the negative I put this information in a website (I have created) and from there I can do an exif export and merge it with the tiff file.
This works perfect for me, my own ‘Film Asset Management’. The only problem I have is when doing several exposures of the same subject with different exposures/filters and the film comes back from the lab I have mostly no clue what film came out what holder. But this will resolve itself when I’n going to develop the film myself.

Without using friskit or notches you still can’t id which sheet came out of which side of a holder. You can only id that the sheets came out of a specific holder.

[esearing]

Well and good. But there is still no way with this system to know which sheet was shot in which side of which holder.

Some of us still develop one sheet at a time - I know what side of the holder a sheet came out of if there is a problem. Its not usually the holders fault when problems occur so tracking holder rarely matters. Poor loading technique, failure to keep back tight to camera body when pulling/inserting dark slide, and failure to set the proper aperture are far more likely than a #11 Side B holder failure.

Also with the blue tape method I know what Image #1 is on a given day is and the blue tape stays on the holder with a big #1 written on it until I decide to remove it. This ain't rocket science.

[LFLarry]

What is the type of label you use for your holders? I assume you are printing this on a laser printer? Any special glue to affix the label to the holder?



I label my film holders as shown on the photo below. I keep a detailed record of each photograph in a separate notebook that fits in my camera case.

201830

201833

[Salmo22]

What is the type of label you use for your holders? I assume you are printing this on a laser printer? Any special glue to affix the label to the holder?

I use a Brother brand label maker. Their 6mm/0.23" TZ-Tape fits nearly perfectly on my Toyo film holders. Only minor trimming is needed. While each label stays affixed to the film holders and does not "peel-up" from use, the labels can be removed without too much trouble. This system works very well for me. I already had the label maker for labeling business files and adapted it for this purpose.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

Well and good. But there is still no way with this system to know which sheet was shot in which side of which holder.

True, but I have started doing 1 sheet at a time so I will know what came from where.

[Nodda Duma]

This is what I’m putting on the first run of 4x5 ChromaGraphica Dry Plate Holders (this is the production test holder). These are simple adhesive labels that can be written on. The 5x7 and 8x10’s won’t have the labels. For subsequent production I’m thinking that a white, satin finish area for writing can be silkscreened on for all three sizes.



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