DBI help

[michael Allen]

I'm having a little trouble identifying when my neg is done processing. I understand that according to the procedures I should be looking at the base side for the highlights, when they just start to appear.
Should I also be looking at my shadow areas for some detail? I find myself doing this at times even though I see the highlights already there.

[phil sweeney]

Hi Michael,

watch the film edge as a shadow reference! watch the film edge! over exposed and overdeveloped negs can be hard to assess especially if they are low in contrast and lacking shadow value. Always look through the negative, for contrast.

[John Berry ( Roadkill )]

It depends on how you are going to print. If you are going to print for Azo you will wait till you can see them pretty good. Better yet, I invested in a pair of night vision goggles. With fp-4 I can watch the emulsion side. I made some clear acrylic tanks for my hangers. Acros you have to watch base side. I worked up a time and temp process for my film then used that as a benchmark for dbi. I can now do N,+,- all at the same time. I even mix film in the same batch. It will take a little while to establish your pull time, but not as long as you think. When I first started I was always pulling them to soon.

[John Berry ( Roadkill )]

If your developing in pyrocat you can look a lot longer than you might think. The development desensitizes the film.

[N Dhananjay]

I would second Dan's suggestion - it helps for you to get a visual memory for what a properly developed negative looks like under the green safelight. Yes, you can check the shadows, by holding the negative up to the light source - keep it at least 3-4 ft away. Do keep in mind that if your shadows are not upto snuff, there is not much you can do about it - you should have given more exposure to get a good negative, but by all means look at the shadow areas to reassure yourself that everything is OK or to slow down your development or use a water bath etc. And do not worry, you will not fog the film, especially if you are using a pyro or catechol developer because they desensitize the film. As mentioned, the edge of the negative is a handy reference for a shadow tone. The important thing is to not stress too much about things - keep a smooth flow of work going...;-)
Cheers, DJ

[Ole Tjugen]

It also depends on what developer you are using. Back in the days when everyone did developing by inspection, developers were roughly differentiated into "surface" and "deep" developers. Try one of each (e.g. FX-2 for surface and D-23 for deep), and you'll understand why!

[sanking]

I wonder if any of you have done DBI using the night vision goggles with TMAX-400? On Michael Smith's AZO forum a year or so ago there was quite a lot of discussion about the problems posed by the very magenta stain of the film,which apparently makes visual analysis more difficult than with other films. Just wondering if this problem is eliminated by the use of the night goggles?

[Matt Miller]

I develop 8x10 TMY by inspection with much success. I use a red safelight with a 15w bulb and inspect by reflected light. Initially, I had the same problems as everyone else does with the green light and this film. After switching to the red light I find TMY is very easy to judge.