Ilford FP4 Plus 125 developing help

[AdamD]

Hi. Quick question. I don't want to do something stupid...

I'm mixing up my chemistry for my first crack at film development in something like, crap...35 years.

Anyway, I'm using HC110, so that's 31 parts water to 1 part HC110. Sound okay?

For Stop, I'm using Ilfostop and the box says 19 parts water to 1 part Stop.

Next, I'm using FP-4 Fixer. Not sure about this one. The film box says 4 to 1, but does that apply to all fixers and more importantly, to FP-4??

Finally, the box says "final rinse". I am using Photo Flow and I seem to remember that's 200 to 1 and that's what the box says too. The thing is, I'm not sure if Final Rinse is the same as Photo Flow.

Can anyone with direct experience please prevent me from doing something stupid and confirm the numbers above?

Also, is it ok to pre-mix the chemistry the night before? The only one I have not mixed is the Photo Flow. I understand that doesn't keep longer than a few hours, so that's a game time mix.

Thoughts?

Adam

[Vaughn]

...Anyway, I'm using HC110, so that's 31 parts water to 1 part HC110. Sound okay? Yep...that would be Dil.B in any charts. Just be aware of the capacity of the developer and make sure you have enough to fully develop the film -- how are you developing? trays?

For Stop, I'm using Ilfostop and the box says 19 parts water to 1 part Stop. I'll take your word on that, but see below.

Next, I'm using FP-4 Fixer (TF-4?)... The film box says 4 to 1, but does that apply to all fixers and more importantly, to FP-4?? Yes, that dilution applies to all films -- and fixing times will be about the same -- though fixing times will be longer for TMax films. HOWEVER -- do you mean TF-4 fixer? If you do, you do not need to use any Stop Bath -- just a water bath between developer and fixer will do.

Finally, the box says "final rinse". I am using Photo Flow and I seem to remember that's 200 to 1 and that's what the box says too. The thing is, I'm not sure if Final Rinse is the same as Photo Flow. After washing, a final bath (rinse) of Photo-flo, no stronger than 200 to 1, and mixed with distilled water if you can't trust your tap water. Then hang up the film to dry.

Also, is it ok to pre-mix the chemistry the night before? The only one I have not mixed is the Photo Flow. I understand that doesn't keep longer than a few hours, so that's a game time mix. Don't mix the developer until you are ready to start that day -- it does not sit well once mixed (oxidizes). Mix a quart of the fix up at any time and keep track of the number of sheets that you put thru it -- the bottle may have the capacity listed on it. It will last many days until it reaches its capacity -- keep it bottled up when not in use. Mixed Photo-flo will last for days, but most people just add a few drops in water right before they need to use it, then toss it afterwards.

Vaughn

Adam

[Alan9940]

Your 1:31 ratio for HC-110 is called dilution B; just follow suggested time on Massive Dev Chart to start.

Never used Ilford stop, but just follow directions on label.

Haven't used Formulary FP-4 fixer for quite awhile, but I thought 1L of concentrate made 4L of working strength fixer? Better check the directions on this one, too. Also, make sure you mix the entire bottle, as directed.

Wash film with water using the Ilford method to conserve water.

Yes, final rinse usually refers to something like Photoflo. You should mix, as needed, directly from the concentrate.

Have fun!

[BrianShaw]

The Ilford chemistry is 1 PLUS/AND 19 and 1 PLUS/AND 4.

[esearing]

Do not use photoflo in the tank for final rinse because it leaves residue that may affect your next batch if not cleaned properly. use separate tray and remove film from processing hanger/holder.

[Vaughn]

The Ilford chemistry is 1 PLUS/AND 19 and 1 PLUS/AND 4.

Exactly! 1 to 19, and 1 to 4...or are we in for another rotation of the notation discussion? LOL!

Photo-flo seems to work just fine and dandy mixed at a weaker solution than 1 part concentrate to 200 parts water. However that is not true the other way around...thus many folks just add a few drops and use it once. I just pour a little into the cap, toss it in a tray of water, and give each neg a bit of a soak in it before I hang the sheet up to dry. And sometimes I skip it if I am exhausted and it is 3am in the morning -- and the negs (4x5 up to 11x14) always look fine. Must be my water...which is why some folks may need to use distilled water to mix the photo-flo if they have questionable water.

A quick rinse of the tray removes all the Photo-flo...it removes easily. It can build up on developing reels and racks if you do not rinse your reels well afterwards (the build-up can make loading the reels more difficult)...I always took the film off the reels before using Photo-flo out of habit.

[BrianShaw]

Let’s not, V. I was looking for that thread to cite but couldn’t find it. Maybe it is better as a vague memory. Ha ha ha.

[Jerry Bodine]

I now use a couple of drops of Edwal LFN, rather than PhotoFlo, to avoid the residue concerns.

[Doremus Scudder]

When all else fails, read the instructions.

All the products you mention have instructions packaged with them and also easily findable on the Internet. Don't trust hearsay, get your info from the horse's mouth.

"Final rinse" does indeed mean the wetting agent, aka Kodak Photo Flo, Edwal LFN, et al. Do mix according to directions and with distilled water if you have any doubts about your tap water at all.

Don't use instructions on the film box for mixing chemistry; use the instructions packaged with the chemistry itself.

Good luck,

Doremus

[AdamD]

Hi all, thank you for all the replies.

Success!!!!

I developed 6 sheets into two separate runs. Both came out really good so far.

One thing I noticed was that at least two photos looked pretty dark. I have no idea if that's because the shots were simply underexposed or over developed. I'm going to guess underexposed, but, gotta get them scanned.

More to follow....it was fun!

[BrianShaw]

Yay!

[Willie]

Hi all, thank you for all the replies.

Success!!!!

I developed 6 sheets into two separate runs. Both came out really good so far.

One thing I noticed was that at least two photos looked pretty dark. I have no idea if that's because the shots were simply underexposed or over developed. I'm going to guess underexposed, but, gotta get them scanned.

More to follow....it was fun!

You need to learn to tell the difference. It is not difficult. Horenstein's books on B&W Photography will help. Learning will help a lot in judging negatives in the future as well as in fine tuning your exposure and development technique.

[Vaughn]

...
One thing I noticed was that at least two photos looked pretty dark. I have no idea if that's because the shots were simply underexposed or over developed. I'm going to guess underexposed, but, gotta get them scanned...

I assume you meant two negatives look pretty dark -- is that correct? If a negative is dark (dense, hard to see through), then that negative got more exposure than the negatives that are 'thinner' (easier to see through)...and if they are significantly darker than it is over-exposure, not over-development.

[devb]

What is your development time for HC-110B with this? I've found I have to stick to the low end of the recommended range.