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jtomasella
13-Jan-2020, 14:46
Will any glass do for holding the negatives flat to make contact prints?

Eric Woodbury
13-Jan-2020, 15:17
Clear float glass, like window or picture framing glass, works fine. If you don't have a frame, use some heavy glass so that you maintain good, close contact between neg and paper.

Oren Grad
13-Jan-2020, 15:51
If you don't have a frame, use some heavy glass so that you maintain good, close contact between neg and paper.

...but get the edges chamfered so that you don't cut your fingers handling the glass.

Drew Wiley
13-Jan-2020, 16:09
I prefer thick anti-Newton glass just like in an enlarger carrier, but thicker. Don't know if anyone makes that anymore; but something close could be homemade from float glass. Frosted picture framing glass is awfully thin and break-prone, and might show texture in the print.

Michael Kadillak
13-Jan-2020, 17:35
There is a source of Anti Newton glass online you an search. Agree with Drew. Modestly thicker than clear float glass is best as is edge buffing.

Drew Wiley
13-Jan-2020, 17:50
Since I don't contact print anything bigger than 8x10, I just use my Condit 8x10 masking frame, which already has thick AN glass, and is certainly a premium quality item.

John Kasaian
13-Jan-2020, 23:11
In the past I've used a thick piece of glass I found at a Pier 29---I think it was for use on an end table, but I've replaced that with a Printfile CP-1 Contact Proofer. I just find it easier to work with the Printfile.

jtomasella
14-Jan-2020, 08:30
In the past I've used a thick piece of glass I found at a Pier 29---I think it was for use on an end table, but I've replaced that with a Printfile CP-1 Contact Proofer. I just find it easier to work with the Printfile.

Hmm, only $35 at B&H, I'll order one when I'm ready.

ic-racer
14-Jan-2020, 08:37
I have a 1cm thick piece of glass about 12x10" but it won't hold Ilford Double weight paper flat. If I ever try contacts again, I'd go with a good quality print frame. If one prints with diffuse light, the paper and negative must touch over the entire surface. If one prints with collimated light (focused light under an enlarger lens) every piece of dust on both sides of the glass and both sides of the negative and the top of the paper can show.

koraks
14-Jan-2020, 08:37
If you need AN glass depends on the film you use. With some types of film I do get newton rings, but often with sheet film I don't (except with tmax100). So give it a try with regular glass and upgrade if it proves to be necessary. A sheet of regular float glass of decent thickness isn't expensive.

darr
14-Jan-2020, 12:43
I use this glass on top of my film in Print File pages and digitize with a medium format digital back and also a Fuji X-Pro3:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B3GI8BC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Tin Can
14-Jan-2020, 12:59
I have been consider this for 14X36" X-Ray contact prints

Not kidding

https://www.amazon.com/Rectangle-Glass-Table-Thick-Beveled/dp/B001E684T8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=glass+table+tops&qid=1579031819&s=home-garden&sr=1-5

jtomasella
15-Jan-2020, 06:13
I think I have a 42" round table top sitting in the closet. Of course that will never fit under the enlarger but I may use it to dry a big Fiber based print when I get to that point.

Vaughn
15-Jan-2020, 13:22
I have been consider this for 14X36" X-Ray contact prints

Not kidding

https://www.amazon.com/Rectangle-Glass-Table-Thick-Beveled/dp/B001E684T8/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=glass+table+tops&qid=1579031819&s=home-garden&sr=1-5
Might have a built-in neutral density filter! Their other glass is marked "Clear". Free shipping? That's going to weigh a bit!

Definitely have the edges sanded at the shop if you buy a piece of glass. Not only will it protect your fingers, it will be less likely to crack

Tin Can
15-Jan-2020, 13:58
It seems big sheets of glass ship with sales price included.

I had a hard time getting 1/4" plate glass sourced and cut for my old contact printer, which works well after I dialed down the lamps for enlarging paper and added more diffusion.



https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49390715693_f756a2976c_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ifuk2F)Time-O-Lite (https://flic.kr/p/2ifuk2F) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr



Might have a built-in neutral density filter! Their other glass is marked "Clear". Free shipping? That's going to weigh a bit!

Definitely have the edges sanded at the shop if you buy a piece of glass. Not only will it protect your fingers, it will be less likely to crack

doctorpepe
30-Jan-2020, 15:22
If you are seriously going to make contact prints from any kind of LF negative, even collodiion on glass, a vacuum UV exposure unit is perfect. They are pricey on fleabay or amazon, but you might be able to cobble one together from a printing supply house. They need the vacuum unit with "blanket" (a sheet of neoprene rubber) a vacuum pump and then a light source. I used one for years when I contacted 4x5 thru 11x14 negatives onto platinum/palladium/kallitype homemade papers. No lack of perfect contact, always worked like a charm.

Michael Kadillak
30-Jan-2020, 15:40
If you are seriously going to make contact prints from any kind of LF negative, even collodiion on glass, a vacuum UV exposure unit is perfect. They are pricey on fleabay or amazon, but you might be able to cobble one together from a printing supply house. They need the vacuum unit with "blanket" (a sheet of neoprene rubber) a vacuum pump and then a light source. I used one for years when I contacted 4x5 thru 11x14 negatives onto platinum/palladium/kallitype homemade papers. No lack of perfect contact, always worked like a charm.

Yes it is nice to have a large vacuum frame and pump / UV printer but it is by no means necessary particularly with silver prints. I find that a 80 year old Century spring back contact frame (even though it is slightly warped) does as good a job as my Nuarc plate maker or my stand alone vacuum frame / vacuum pump combo and it is more efficient. I contact print 8x10, 11x14 and 8x20 under a Durst 138 enlarger (180mm Nikkor enlarger lens as my illumination control) on Ilford multi grade paper with an Ilford 500 multi grade 600 watt (2x300 watt bulbs) light head on top. Allows me to control print contrast with a push on a keyboard. I record the distance from the easel to the lens and the F Stop for replicating future reprints. Lots of ways to get to Grandma's house.