Suggestions for a low cost incident light meter

[AdamD]

Hello, yes another light meter thread!!

I've read through previous threads on this topic but some things are not lining up for me. I'm told by several forum users that low cost incident light meters are out there that also use standard modern batteries for under $100, even less than that!

Can anyone please suggest a specific model that you can recommend to a new guy that will help me get the right exposure and also use standard batteries for under $100?

I've found lots of posts recommending much more expensive ones, but also told that spending that kind of money is not necessary. IDK...help!!

[EarlJam]

If your usage plans are primarily outdoors, consider the Sekonic L398, successor to the Norwood Director (I have both, the Norwood from film school days in the 70s, and the Sekonic more recently since I can no longer read the dials on the Norwood). These are available used for well under $100. One upside: no batteries. The tradeoff is that metering suffers in low light applications, but can be compensated for if you're shooting indoors with hot lights or LED/fluorescent lighting.

https://www.sekonic.com/united-states/downloads/l-398m_quick_english.pdf

199159

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

Under $100 your only options are to buy used, or use a smart phone app (I like Cine Meter II which works with the Luxi incident dome).

The cheapest reliable meter I have used is the Sekonic L-308, but at $220 it is the same price as the L398 (also great, but different) and beyond your price range. Two cheaper options are the Sekonic L-208 and the Gossen Digisix, but both are over $100 and I would rather buy used...

[Oren Grad]

With patience you should be able to find the original Sekonic L-308 second-hand for around $100. Failing that, the earlier L-318 would also be a good choice and is likely to be available for well under $100. The L-318 is different from the L-308 in having the meter cell on a swiveling head. This is a plus in that it provides flexibility in how you hold the meter, and also allows it to accept a spot-metering attachment if that's of interest. But it's also a minus in that the L-318 is slightly larger and definitely more fragile if you want to stuff it in your pocket. (The plastic cover of the swiveling head on mine is now taped back on... :o)

Though I use mostly the L-308 these days because it's more easily and safely pocketable, if I were on a very tight budget I could happily live with the L-318.

[Vaidotas]

Less known, low cost and reliable.

http://cameras.alfredklomp.com/sverdlovsk4/

I’d look in to later models.

I used it a lot in studio and field with CR123 cell

[reddesert]

The Gossen Luna Pro Digital is a nice, compact, light meter that can do incident. It uses 1xAA which is really convenient! The current version is called Sixtomat F2 and costs about $190 new, which is more than you asked for but a relative bargain. I got the earlier model about 20 years ago in one of my rare purchases of new equipment and have not regretted it. Sekonic's rough equivalent is the L-308.

The earlier Gossen Luna Pros with needle scale are a completely different design and can be found used for not too much, but make sure you get one that is tested working. These are heavy duty professional items but they are old. Unfortunately, most of the Luna Pros used 1.35v mercury batteries; the newer Luna Pro sbc uses something else (I think 9v) but is less common.

[Jim Andrada]

B&H is listing the Sekonic 208 for $126.

I have a couple of them and they're fine - have (had actually - I lost it somewhere - a small digital Gossen about the same size but the digital version is a PITA to change ISO etc)

The little Sekonic has a slider to convert to incident and it's small enough to go in any pocket. Did I say that it works just fine???

[jp]

I've got two of the Sekonic 208. Very rugged and light weight; seems like an oxymoron, but not with this meter. Battery lasts forever. I changed one's battery out after five years and it wasn't even having a problem. Cheap CR2032 common button battery. One in my LF bag and one in my MF kit.

[AdamD]

Ok. Pretty good suggestions.

Here's a spin-off question....

When using a DSLR camera meter or a reflection meter, how/what changes do you need to make to the given exposure for film?

Before I get an incident meter, I'll use my camera. If I'm using 125 speed film and I set my DSLR to ISO 125, and I set my f-stop to say f11 and the camera gives me a 1/20 shutter speed, what do I do with that? Do I just take that number and run with it? Lots of debate here at to multi matrix metering verse spot metering, but basically do you just set the LF lens to whatever the DSLR says?

[Two23]

The black & white film has a lot of latitude, so a good reading from a DSLR will be very close if not spot on.


Kent in SD

[jp]

DSLR metering is compatible with shooting B&W film. Just keep in mind that DSLRs handle shadows and highlights differently just as different film/developer combos handle things differently. Many people use a meter app or their DSLR. I leave my DSLR in auto-iso mode, so it's a pain to put it in manual ISO mode, then remember to set it back to auto iso when done metering, and I use heavy Sigma f1.4 lenses on the DSLR, so it's heavier than typical film cameras. Instead of lugging $2000 and 5 pounds of gear I might not use to take photos with, I use the Sekonic 208 meter which is lighter than a pocket watch.

[AdamD]

Ahh, but for color it matters much more then....

[Leszek Vogt]

but basically do you just set the LF lens to whatever the DSLR says?

There is more to exposure than it meets the eye. Initially, I'd suggest to bracket....to come up with a happy medium. Box speed may show 100ASA....and you'll have to determine whether 2/3ds or 1/2 that speed would be acceptable. OK, so there is that. Make sure the bellows are properly compensated for (1/3 - 1+ stops). Then you may have reciprocity....each film is bit different. Also, one can adjust the lens/shutter as per personal preference and look desired. Once you get the feel for the "proper" exposure, you can always adjust or deviate to accomplish your goals.....it's experience related.

Les

[Alan Klein]

I bought a Minolta Autometer IIIF that measures flash as well as incident light under $100. You didn;t mention if you were using flash like for portraits. There's also a reflective light attachment you can add later if you need it or get it at the same time.

[Alan Klein]

Or get the Minolta IVF.

[Two23]

I have a Minolta IVf that I use for my LF cameras and other vintage cameras. It's a good meter. I use it for incident and flash. I think Adam could get something cheaper just to meter ambient light. Can always sell and get something else later if he stays with LF.



Kent in SD

[eli]

The Luna Pro F is the one to get, although it is larger than the Luna pro SBC, which does no need a battery and has it's own issues in dim light.

The larger 'F' , F stands for flash, uses the 9 volt battery and you will run into times when a small fill light is needed, to get the right exposure, and it is an excellent meter, even today.

Compared to modern meters, it is a huge thing, but it is (in working order) just as accurate as they are, especially in low, existing light, and they have the 'bonus' of accepting a number of accessories, including a darkroom exposure metering adapter, a 'spot' adapter, (only 7.5 degrees) a probe for metering on the film plane of a view camera, and I forget what else.

There is also something to say for a meter that you can both use to make the exposure on, and then meter in the darkroom, in the same areas you metered in making the shot.

I still use one, as well as a Pentax 1 degree needle meter and a pair of Weston V's.

All of these are good, solid meters, and despite their age, do a very good job (though the light is weak in the Pentax tool.

Look for a working Luna pro F here or at KEH.com, or buy a spot meter and average out your readings, is the thing I suggest.

Solid tools and bang for the buck is what these meters represent and as your skill and budget grows, you can one day more to newer models.

IMO.

[mike rosenlof]

The gossen Luna lux SBC is a very nice meter. Prices seem 50 or 60 these days.

[Greg]

Spectra Director Exposure Meter Model D
or
Norwood Director Model D Exposure Meter Color Manic

Up for auction for usually under $20

[AdamD]

Hi all,

I decided on the Luna Pro F. I found one on the auction site.

Can't wait!!

You have all been a huge help.

[Two23]

Hi all,

I decided on the Luna Pro F. I found one on the auction site.

Can't wait!!

You have all been a huge help.



It's a good choice. You can double check it against Sunny 16 or a reading of a neutral gray subject taken with your DSLR.


Kent in SD

[AdamD]

So check it out. Just yesterday I met up with a local forum member who is helping me learn the ropes of LF. It's awesome having a coach!!!!

Anyway, the very first time I ever heard the words Sunny 16 was literally yesterday!!!! So, Kent, I know exactly what you mean!!!!

Btw....my first two images came out. We developed them too. Pretty awesome. I need to get them scanned or contact printed. That's next.

[HMG]

I use the Sekonic 208, use it often (mostly in incident mode), and like it. And I find it's handy to have small incident meter even when using MF and 35mm with built in meters.

[Tin Can]

I use an iPhone app 'Light Meter' which agrees with my $600 light meter...

I still need my fancy one for strobes and spot metering at a distance

[AdamD]

I use an iPhone app 'Light Meter' which agrees with my $600 light meter...

I still need my fancy one for strobes and spot metering at a distance

LOL!! That's awesome.

[Duolab123]

The Luna Pro is a great choice, you can find all manner of attachments for these used.
I use the Minolta IV F. I have 3 of these, 1st one I bought new, the other two were a deal I couldn't pass up. I've always been an incident meter fan. One of the best guides for exposure are the little data sheets that Kodak included in almost every box of film up through the 70's. The little pocket Kodak photoguides are brilliant as well.
Happy hunting!

[Tin Can]

KODAK should revive the Sunny 16 printing inside the box of all their films. Even LF

Perhaps especially LF

Used that box info from1957 and never used any meter

[Jim Galli]

Seriously, if you're stalled on something this basic, I'm afraid you won't get much further. 2 threads and 29 answers +. Just buy one and get going. A Sekonic L-318B came with a camera outfit I bought once upon a time. It's the only thing I kept. Any of them will work. Simpler the better. Digital is nice these days.

[Heroique]

Hi all, I decided on the Luna Pro F. I found one on the auction site. Can't wait!! You have all been a huge help.

Have fun, a nice meter for the price.

If you have a local camera shop, they often have testing equipment and could offer a complimentary meter test (or compare your meter with one of theirs). It might confirm your meter is perfect or off by, say, 1/3 or 2/3 stops. Handy to know.

Remember to practice the sunny-16 rule before each meter reading. Fun to see how close you are – and useful if batteries unexpectedly fail one day.

[Bob Salomon]

199844
Thought I would show you mine. It is an incident meter, a reflected light meter, a flash meter for incident or reflected light and a shutter speed checker. The strange, plug in box on the side is for 35mm in plane measurement. You need to make an adapter, double weight black mat board works well for larger formats. It came in a waterproof Otter Box. Made in Cincinnati!

It’s extremely rare and came from ZTS. In case you can’t read it’s logo it’s the ZTS Tester Pro.

ZTS is known for their professional battery testers.