Anybody know how to take apart a Sinar P?

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

I got this beat up Sinar P to convert to 12x20. Well as expected for $450 it is beat up and needs some elbow grease but I am unable to find any diagrams or schematics about the camera. Any help would be appreciated.

[David A. Goldfarb]

Much of it is pretty intuitive. Which parts do you need to disassemble?

I've done things like replaced broken levels and tightened loose parts on mine.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

This one is going to need a thorough once over. The knob that moves the back standard seems to be sticking out too much, apparently something is wrong with it. Anyhow I guess I will play with it, I just got it today.

[David A. Goldfarb]

I don't have the camera in front of me, but if I'm not mistaken, the knob that controls rear tilt and swing, depending on the position of the switch, pulls out for certain kinds of adjustment (access to the screws for adjusting the side level, for instance) and when the swing is locked with the screw on the opposite side. Is this the knob you mean, or is it the rear focus knob? If it's the swing knob, just be sure the locking screw is loose, and it should work. If it's the focus knob, then something may be amiss.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Yeah it is the one for the tilt and swing not the focus knob. I am going to play with it later and I might PM you if I end up with parts left... :-)

[David A. Goldfarb]

In that case, it's not a problem. The knob is supposed to pull out.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Yeah, but it does not push back in, it stays out....I will take the stuff apart and probably figure it out. I just took apart the front standard and as you say it was intutive....now if I could only figure out where the two screws left over go.......

[David A. Goldfarb]

Okay, I'm at home now, so I can look at the camera. The knob is normally offset about 20mm from the body of the rear standard bearer, and then it pulls out another 12mm or so, for situations where you need the extra clearance. It's not supposed to be flush like the other knobs. It should also slip if you exceed the range of motion in swing mode (which you could do if you have something on backward).

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Thanks a bunch David, so the the knob is fine.......good to know!

[Mark Woods]

In this same line of thought, does anyonw have a source for "reasonably" priced bubble levels. I have a couple of broken levels.

Thanks in advance,

MW

[David A. Goldfarb]

If you order them from Sinarbron, they oddly differ substantially in price. I ordered two and one was around $19, and the other was around $42, though they seem like they can't be too different in manufacture. Maybe you'll be lucky and only need a $19 level.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Is not the taking apart, it is the putting back together Dan..... :-)

[tor kviljo]

all movements (except swing & base tilt) on the sinar P rides on straight or curved nylon-rods that separate metal surfaces. Old lube makes the mechanism sticky. All the nylon rods are simply secured in place by the two thin metal plates that covers the two ends of the respective track. Thus - only a few small screws is to be removed before you can slide out the nylon rods for geared-tilt & for focus. For rise/fall, the rods are accessable with Q-tips from opening when standard is racked all to the top. Cleaning rods & tracks with Q-tips & alcohol to all bearing surfaces is non-sticky & free of old grease. The mechanism to stay away from if You are not skilled, is the swing mechanism. This employ steel-gears and main gear can be lubed from underside when in extreme swing position. The gear-box is accessible once main cover on top of the standard bearer is removed. The plunger for zero-position of swing is in the way, but the sheet metal is thin enough that you can slide it under & swing cover away to expose interior of gear box. Focussing tracks may be worn, but is inexpensive as parts & easily replaced (two screws). There is brass replacement tracks available for rise/fall if the nylon tracks get worn to fast: You may consider that if you intend to make a ULF back for it. There is little to go wrong: the P is a tool made of strong components & designed to be easy to service despite the all-geared & complex movements it can handle.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Thanks Tek....where do you get the brass tracks? The front rise is worn and missing a few teeth. The big problem was the back swing. There was a little brass plate about a cm in lenght and 4 mm in width that was stuck in between the gears and would not allow the standard to rotate to the left. I have taken everything apart and for the life of me I have no idea where that little brass plate goes. Everything else is pretty straigh forward, just a million of little screws to keep track of, but that plate is dirving me crazy. It has two little screw in holes, so it must go somewhere......could it be the tilt break?

I wish Sinar had diagrams.....

[David A. Goldfarb]

Hard to say offhand without seeing it or taking apart my own rear standard, but on the left side of the rear standard (viewed from the back as it would be mounted on the camera) there should be a small black knob attached to a simple screw. This is the swing brake, so that you can lock the swing setting while focusing or changing the rear tilt (if you're using a wide lens, the "self-arresting" movements might not be so self-arresting against the force of the bellows). The screw presses against a small metal plate that compresses the flat side of the rubber ring that holds down the gear track for the swing mechanism. Your little brass plate might be that plate. The tilt mechanism does not have a brake like this.

Also, you can control the tension in the swing mechanism by adjusting the screws on the plate that presses down on the rubber ring. Don't overtighten, or the swing mechanism won't move, but don't make it too loose or it will be hard to control.

While looking at my camera, I also noticed that if you shift the rear standard all the way to the left and try to tilt all the way back (something I don't see myself doing for any actual photograph), you'll see why the tilt knob pulls out.

[Jan Virtanen]

How does one calibrate the new spirit levels?

[David A. Goldfarb]

The levels are held in place by two screws each. To get to the screws you may need to remove a cover panel for one or two of the levels.

Zero the camera settings and level it using another level (I like to use the groundglass and front filter ring of a lens as references with a 90-degree level for the fore/aft levels), loosen the screws slightly (usually you'll want to leave one a little more snug than the other), adjust the level until it reads correctly, and tighten carefully (and then do it again when in frustration you've moved the level as you were tightening).