Infinity or Hyper Focal?

[LFLarry]

I’ve got a unique opportunity to photograph some wildlife using my 4x5 and I was thinking about setting the lens at infinity and then making sure the large animals were at the minimum distance for infinity. The goal is to not have to focus the camera which would work in this scenario.

Any creative ideas on how to approach this with my standard 150mm and possibly my 300mm too?

I want to make sure I know how to calculate infinity for each of my lenses too.

Looking forward to everyone’s thoughts and ideas.

[Dan Fromm]

Why calculate when you can measure?

Find a far, far distant subject, mount a lens, focus on it, mark where the standards are or measure the distance between them.

When you want to set up your camera with that lens focused to infinity, mount the lens, position the standards at their marks or separate them by the measured distance and off you go.

[Jim Noel]

there are charts on the web listing hyperfocal distances for lenses of various focal lengths, and f-stops.
Look up your lenses and make a small sticker to put on the lens board. IN the field,estimate, or measure if you wish, the HF distance, focus on it and you are ready to go.

[Corran]

I don't know what camera you are using but I would set it up at infinity or close to it, and then mark different focus ranges somehow, depending on how your camera focuses. Many Crown Graphics have these scales already on the bed for normal lenses, and scales can be found for a few typical lenses in use at the time - and of course they have a rangefinder too which may really help for your purposes.

Shooting handheld I would say is your best bet considering the unpredictability of such subjects, but I guess if they are somewhat still maybe you can get away with a tripod. Don't forget about shutter speed - bring some 400-speed film probably.

Or just use MF ;).

[LFLarry]

Gotta love the practical advice here Dan...

One quick question. Is there an easy way to determine how far I need to be away from the animals in order to ensure they are within that infinity range?



Why calculate when you can measure?

Find a far, far distant subject, mount a lens, focus on it, mark where the standards are or measure the distance between them.

When you want to set up your camera with that lens focused to infinity, mount the lens, position the standards at their marks or separate them by the measured distance and off you go.

[LFLarry]

Hey Jim, I want to make sure I don't mess this up... Are hyperfocal distances the same independent of the format? For example, is it the same for 4x5 as it is for 5x7?



there are charts on the web listing hyperfocal distances for lenses of various focal lengths, and f-stops.
Look up your lenses and make a small sticker to put on the lens board. IN the field,estimate, or measure if you wish, the HF distance, focus on it and you are ready to go.

[LFLarry]

Hi Corran, good info... I was planning on using HP5 film, so we are thinking along the same lines.

I don't have a Crown, but a friend does, and I know it has a focal plane shutter too which could help with the handheld aspect too. I can borrow it at any time, so this could be a good option.



I don't know what camera you are using but I would set it up at infinity or close to it, and then mark different focus ranges somehow, depending on how your camera focuses. Many Crown Graphics have these scales already on the bed for normal lenses, and scales can be found for a few typical lenses in use at the time - and of course they have a rangefinder too which may really help for your purposes.

Shooting handheld I would say is your best bet considering the unpredictability of such subjects, but I guess if they are somewhat still maybe you can get away with a tripod. Don't forget about shutter speed - bring some 400-speed film probably.

Or just use MF ;).

[Dan Fromm]

Gotta love the practical advice here Dan...

One quick question. Is there an easy way to determine how far I need to be away from the animals in order to ensure they are within that infinity range?

Time to calculate. There are many DoF/hyperfocal distance calculators around. When you use one, make sure that you pick a Circle of Confusion that makes sense for you. Most of the calculators' default CoC for 4x5 is much too large.

Hint: if you're always going to shoot at the same aperture (huge if) then don't throw away DoF by focusing to infinity, do the focusing exercise at the hyperfocal distance you calculate for the lens' focal length and the aperture you'll use. And use a CoC that makes sense given how much you plan to enlarge.

If I were shooting wildlife -- I've done it with 35 mm and Super 8, all SLRs, never with a press or view camera -- I'd just focus the camera on the subject. This worked for me when the subject wasn't moving rapidly, don't see why it can't be done with a 4x5.

[LFLarry]

Hi Dan, I think the big thing is that I really have no idea what the situation is going to be in terms of how close or far I may actually be to the animals. So, I was trying to think of ways to control certain variables (move closer or farther) but not have to focus because I probably won't have the opportunity or time. Even if I did, it probably would change too quickly. It is definitely an interesting problem that I have never considered before. But I like that and I am trying to think of ways to manage this before I get out there.



Time to calculate. There are many DoF/hyperfocal distance calculators around. When you use one, make sure that you pick a Circle of Confusion that makes sense for you. Most of the calculators' default CoC for 4x5 is much too large.

Hint: if you're always going to shoot at the same aperture (huge if) then don't throw away DoF by focusing to infinity, do the focusing exercise at the hyperfocal distance you calculate for the lens' focal length and the aperture you'll use. And use a CoC that makes sense given how much you plan to enlarge.

If I were shooting wildlife -- I've done it with 35 mm and Super 8, all SLRs, never with a press or view camera -- I'd just focus the camera on the subject. This worked for me when the subject wasn't moving rapidly, don't see why it can't be done with a 4x5.

[Corran]

If your friend has a Speed Graphic, check with him about what lens it has and if the rangefinder is calibrated. Could be ready to shoot right now with the ease of RF focusing.

I have a Speed with a 127mm lens calibrated to the RF, as well as a Linhof Master Technika with a variety of lenses I can shoot with the RF. It's fun and an unusual usage for LF, these days.

[LFLarry]

I would really like to get a Linhof Master Technika with the rangefinder and the cam properly calibrated for a longer lens like a 240 or even a 300 if that is possible. Newbie question. Can you get different cams for different lenses and use them on the same camera I assume? Can this be calibrated without an engineering degree?




If your friend has a Speed Graphic, check with him about what lens it has and if the rangefinder is calibrated. Could be ready to shoot right now with the ease of RF focusing.

I have a Speed with a 127mm lens calibrated to the RF, as well as a Linhof Master Technika with a variety of lenses I can shoot with the RF. It's fun and an unusual usage for LF, these days.

[Bob Salomon]

I would really like to get a Linhof Master Technika with the rangefinder and the cam properly calibrated for a longer lens like a 240 or even a 300 if that is possible. Newbie question. Can you get different cams for different lenses and use them on the same camera I assume? Can this be calibrated without an engineering degree?

Cams for 72 to 360 are available. The service center can cut it to match your exact lens. Once a Master Technica’s cam is cut it will work properly on all Master Technika and Super Technika cameras with rangefinder.

Cramming includes the correct infinity stops and focusing scale.

[Corran]

The cam is cut for specific lenses. There are only a few folks who do this. Check eBay though - you can find lenses with cams for sale occasionally.

I used to have a 270mm Tele-Arton calibrated to my Linhof IV and it was a fine lens. But I found a sweet deal on a 250mm f/5.6 Zeiss Sonnar for my Linhof MT so I have that now...as well as a 75mm, 90mm, and a few 150mm lenses with cams.

It's the way to go for shooting multiple lenses with RF focusing in LF.

[LFLarry]

Bob, when you say, service center, are you talking about the Linhof service center or something else? This really would be an ideal way for me to go with a rangefinder, so I would like to understand this better so I know what to look for.



Cams for 72 to 360 are available. The service center can cut it to match your exact lens. Once a Master Technica’s cam is cut it will work properly on all Master Technika and Super Technika cameras with rangefinder.

Cramming includes the correct infinity stops and focusing scale.

[ic-racer]

I focus at infinity because objects in the distance in my images are very small and cannot be resolved without accurate focus. Objects in the near field are very large and are still easily identified when out of focus. I'm not the only one with this idea. You can read this whole book on-line for the specifics, or you can just read this sentence near the end of the book.


The traditional depth-of-field philosophy usually ends with the advice: to maximize depth-of-field, choose a moderately small lens opening, set the focus to the hyperfocal distance, and shoot. My parting advice would be a little different. For typical normal and wide-angle lenses, especially lenses having focal lengths less than about 50 mm no matter what the camera format, set the lens opening to somewhere in the 2 mm to 5 mm range, set the focus at infinity, and shoot.

The INs and OUTs of FOCUS
An Alternative Way to Estimate Depth-of-Field and Sharpness
in the Photographic Image
by
Harold M. Merklinger

[Bob Salomon]

Bob, when you say, service center, are you talking about the Linhof service center or something else? This really would be an ideal way for me to go with a rangefinder, so I would like to understand this better so I know what to look for.

Linhof service centers like Precision in IL.

[Vaughn]

There are small range-finders, optical or laser, on the market. For golfers, hunters, etc. You could mark your camera for certain distances.

Hmmm...that lion is 300 meters away, now he is 225 meters away, now he is 100 meters away, oh shit, he's 20 yards away and seems to be chasing a red dot!

[LFLarry]

It is funny you mention this Vaughn... I was literally just looking on Amazon at golf range-finders... :)



There are small range-finders, optical or laser, on the market. For golfers, hunters, etc. You could mark your camera for certain distances.

Hmmm...that lion is 300 meters away, now he is 225 meters away, now he is 100 meters away, oh shit, he's 20 yards away and seems to be chasing a red dot!

[Jim Noel]

Yes, they are governed by the laws of optics. There are some, extremely rare, lenses which may differ for some reason, but I Have Never Run Into One in 80 years.

[Jim Noel]

There are small range-finders, optical or laser, on the market. For golfers, hunters, etc. You could mark your camera for certain distances.

Hmmm...that lion is 300 meters away, now he is 225 meters away, now he is 100 meters away, oh shit, he's 20 yards away and seems to be chasing a red dot!

There are also many small ones made for photography,particularly in the 30's and40's prior to SLR's. Usually very cheap now.

[Alan Klein]

Do like they do in street photography. Zone focus. Calculate the range the animals would be in and then work the numbers backward to see what f stop covers that range. Then set the focal point to cover that range.