Differences between Efke and JandC Classic?

[Curtis Nelson]

Hi,

Can someone tell me what the differences are between the Efke and JandC classic films (besides speed)?

The JandC classic films have been out of stock for awhile, so I'm guessing those are more popular?

Thanks,

Curtis Nelson

[David A. Goldfarb]

J&C Classic films are made by Forte. Each film has its own look, really. I think of J&C 400 at Tri-X-ish with more modulated highlights. Efke 100 is its own thing, but I think if you like films like APX 100 and FP4+, you'll probably like Efke 100. Both respond to pyro well and build good density for Azo or alt-processes or expansion development.

I haven't used the others myself, but the results I've seen from Efke 25 and 50 suggest that they have a really different spectral response from Efke 100, but some people like it.

[lee\c]

I really like the look of Efke PL100 in pyrocat-hd. Efke is just too fragile for a hamfisted person like me. I have tray developed for nearly 30 years and I was never able to tray process Efke. I even went to a drum but it scratched after I got it out of the drum. So....I am now looking for something to replace it with. Possibily FP4.

just my point of view,

leec

[Michael Kadillak]

Lee:

FP4 would be a great choice for your situation as would T Max 400.

I must be very lucky as I have gotten to the point where I have tray processed 8 PL100 8x10 negatives in 11x14 trays without those infamous emulsion divots. Part of the solution for me is the infrared goggle that allows me to see what I am doing like the lights in the darkroom were on. I also wash the film in hangers in a print washer to keep them from contacting each other. I found that previously there was an equal occurance of wash scratches as those that happened during processing. Just my $0.02.

Cheers!

[jj_4045]

I find it curious that people have had damaged emulsions. I use Efke 25 (almost out of it now) in a tank and have never had damage. Not even a pinhole. I do use Kodak Rapid Fix with hardener, of course.

[David A. Goldfarb]

No problems in a tank or with hangers, but if I'm shuffling it in trays, I'm extra careful. Dents and little micro-abrasions are as likely to happen in the developer as in the fixer, so a hardening fixer won't help that.

[tim atherton]

I heard (on here?) that the J&C Pro 100 was chinese

[David A. Goldfarb]

Not sure about the Pro 100, but it's a different film from the Efke 25, 50, 100 and J&C Classic 200 and 400 films.

[Nick_3536]

You can always try Freestyle for thier version of Forte. The older Edu film is Forte. Right now it looks like only the 4x5 is in stock.

[David Starr]

Re: the fragile ERfke film issue.

I'm new at LF, been doing it for about a year, but I've never had scratching problems with Efke PL-100 or Pl-25 . Maybe it's because I process it in a Combi-Plan tank? The film slides in & out easily, which may explain it. Also, I use the Combi-Plan without the lid; total darkness & raise & lower the rack for agitation.

[John Kasaian]

Isn't this swell?

We're supposedly in the twilight of film---Agfa has vanished into cyberspace and yet theres more emulsions out there than you can shake a tripod at :-) This in addition to Kodak and Ilford and no ones even mentioned Maco, Rollie, and Foma.

Ain't it grand?

[Dave Moeller]

I heard (on here?) that the J&C Pro 100 was chinese

John from J&C has reported that the J and C Pro 100 film is made by Lucky in China to J and C's specifications, then cut and packaged in Europe.



I've had great luck with the film and use it as one of my primary sheet flms, but others find the packaging and/or the softness of the emulsion to be troubling.



Be well.

[robert_4927]

Brush development= no scratches with the softer emulsion films. Works great on pl 100 and J&C classic films.