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manfrominternet
7-Jun-2019, 17:15
1.) Do you guys have any suggestions or procedures for cleaning lenses and filters?

2.) How dirty does a lens or filter have to get before you decide to start cleaning it?

I'm currently using the Zeiss Lens Cleaning Kit (which includes the Zeiss spray cleaner and a microfiber cloth), the Sensei lens cleaning tissue, and the Giotto rocket air bulb.

My method - and please tell me if I'm doing this wrong - is to air out any debris or dust, spray the microfiber with the Zeiss spray solution, carefully wipe down the lens element or filter. Once it's dry, I use the rocket air bulb to blow out any more debris and, depending on how the lens element/filter looks, I use the lens cleaning tissues. The lens cleaning tissue occasionally leaves small fibers, which I then rocket air blow out. Then I use a dry microfiber cloth and gently wipe away anything leftover. I use the rocket air bulb as a finishing touch. Once it looks good, I cap it up.

I'm not sure how I feel about the Sensei lens cleaning tissues. They seem to be rough and leave a lot of fiber/lint. I'm not sure how I feel about the Zeiss lens cleaning spray either. It looks like it leaves oily residue, which, in turn, causes me to wipe the lens even more. (Maybe there's oil on these second-hand lenses?) Do you guys have any other recommendations?

These are the lenses that I currently use. Maybe you guys have some specialized suggestions for some of these lenses?:

-65mm Nikon Nikkor-SW f/4
-90mm Sinar (Rodenstock) Sinaron W f/8 (Multicoated)
-135mm Schneider-Kreuznach Xenotar f/3.5
-150mm Schneider Symmar-S f/5.6 (Multicoated)
-210mm Schneider Symmar-S f/5.6 (Multicoated)
-360mm Rodenstock Sironar-N f/6.8 (Multicoated)

I'm also very worried about overcleaning, hence my asking about filters earlier. I'm borderline OCD, and I've had instances where I've stopped photographing just because a little dust, hair, or tiny smudge got on the front element or filter. I'm not sure how a tiny hair or dust on a lens element will affect image resolution.

Bob Salomon
7-Jun-2019, 17:36
Just search this site for cleaning and you will find a thread with over 50 responses, latest was Jun 1.

Jac@stafford.net
7-Jun-2019, 17:55
When a lens becomes dusty I just throw it away.

rdeloe
7-Jun-2019, 18:39
Do you mind telling me where your garbage can is Jac? I have no particular reason for asking... ;)


When a lens becomes dusty I just throw it away.

Doremus Scudder
8-Jun-2019, 10:56
1. Keep your lenses clean and keep caps on them and never touch the surface of the lens with your fingers so you don't have to clean them very much at all. The less cleaning, the better.
2. Your method sounds good, but I'd use the microfiber cloth and ditch the tissues. Tissues can leave residue and scratch soft coatings. Microfiber cloths are better in both respects as long as they are clean. Wash your lens-cleaning cloths often and rinse them very well.
3. Use a blower or a soft brush to remove dust and grit before wiping the lens with anything!
4. I will often breathe onto my lens to leave a bit of condensation and then polish it off with a microfiber cloth. Some disparage this practice, but as long as you're careful not to get anything but condensation on the lens surface (no saliva!), and not too much of that, then it's a really good method for occasional cleaning in the field. This won't remove greasy fingerprints, etc. For that, a microfiber cloth with just a bit of good-quality lens-cleaning fluid is your best bet. FWIW, I clean my lenses thoroughly, i.e., with cloth and lens-cleaning fluid maybe once a year, if that, and only if necessary (some less-used lenses haven't been cleaned in years, because they don't need it). More often only if the lens has been subjected to sea spray or the like.

An aside about microfiber cloths: Years ago I worked in an analogue camera store. A sales rep came in with microfiber cloths (they were new then) and touted their superiority. Skeptical me, who had always used Kodak tissues till then said, "Okay, let's see..." and I pulled out a gel filter and rubbed it hard with the microfiber cloth. To my surprise, there were no scratches. The same treatment with the tissues left visible scratching. I've been using microfiber cloths since then.

I tried Kimwipes once for cleaning a negative. They left horrible scratches; I'd never, ever use them on a lens (or for anything else sensitive for that matter). I use microfiber cloths for cleaning negatives as well.

Best,

Doremus

Bob Salomon
8-Jun-2019, 11:27
1. Keep your lenses clean and keep caps on them and never touch the surface of the lens with your fingers so you don't have to clean them very much at all. The less cleaning, the better.
2. Your method sounds good, but I'd use the microfiber cloth and ditch the tissues. Tissues can leave residue and scratch soft coatings. Microfiber cloths are better in both respects as long as they are clean. Wash your lens-cleaning cloths often and rinse them very well.
3. Use a blower or a soft brush to remove dust and grit before wiping the lens with anything!
4. I will often breathe onto my lens to leave a bit of condensation and then polish it off with a microfiber cloth. Some disparage this practice, but as long as you're careful not to get anything but condensation on the lens surface (no saliva!), and not too much of that, then it's a really good method for occasional cleaning in the field. This won't remove greasy fingerprints, etc. For that, a microfiber cloth with just a bit of good-quality lens-cleaning fluid is your best bet. FWIW, I clean my lenses thoroughly, i.e., with cloth and lens-cleaning fluid maybe once a year, if that, and only if necessary (some less-used lenses haven't been cleaned in years, because they don't need it). More often only if the lens has been subjected to sea spray or the like.

An aside about microfiber cloths: Years ago I worked in an analogue camera store. A sales rep came in with microfiber cloths (they were new then) and touted their superiority. Skeptical me, who had always used Kodak tissues till then said, "Okay, let's see..." and I pulled out a gel filter and rubbed it hard with the microfiber cloth. To my surprise, there were no scratches. The same treatment with the tissues left visible scratching. I've been using microfiber cloths since then.

I tried Kimwipes once for cleaning a negative. They left horrible scratches; I'd never, ever use them on a lens (or for anything else sensitive for that matter). I use microfiber cloths for cleaning negatives as well.

Best,

Doremus

John Sadler?

invisibleflash
8-Jun-2019, 17:39
Alcohol wipes and Kimtech then an air blow.

Have used all types of systems. BW filters seem very troublesome to clean. Prefer cheap Tiffen, just because they clean better. I guess the good glass is a pia.

reddesert
8-Jun-2019, 21:56
I'm also very worried about overcleaning, hence my asking about filters earlier. I'm borderline OCD, and I've had instances where I've stopped photographing just because a little dust, hair, or tiny smudge got on the front element or filter. I'm not sure how a tiny hair or dust on a lens element will affect image resolution.

Small imperfections on the front element or near it are very far out of focus and you typically won't see them in a final image. They can cause some scattered light, so if you have a lot of them or a smudgy front element or filter, it can cause an overall decrease in contrast. A bright point source or light striking imperfections on the front element or filter may also increase flare, but a hood or shade to keep sun off the lens is a good idea anyway (unless you are photographing directly into the light source, happens sometimes in night photography, but unavoidable).

Bottom line, don't stress about cleaning or filters too much. There are a lot of other things in photography that take effort to control, and are more worth spending your energy on. (I mean like process management, avoiding double exposures or light leaks, etc, etc).

Duolab123
8-Jun-2019, 23:28
First thing is when you get a nice clean lens get a high quality coated uv filter on it. I have several extras in common sizes. Nikon L37c, B&W, the older Hoya, made in Japan HMC filters. I use Nikon and Mamiya rubber lens hoods collapsed as rubber bumpers, and extended when needed. I bought a bunch of the center pinch type lens caps.

I have washed a couple Nikon contrast filters in dish soap. Someone gave them to me in a mess. I literally boiled them in a small sauce pan in distilled water and Dawn triple concentrate.

99% of the time I breathe on the lens and wipe with a freshly laundered t shirt

John Layton
9-Jun-2019, 01:02
I typically use two lens tissues...the first of which I tear into two pieces then roll these up so the torn edge now presents as a soft "brush" which can be used to gently coax otherwise affixed particles away in concert with blowing with a bulb. The reason for this "two pronged" approach is that sometimes the blower alone is not enough to remove those particulates which might otherwise cause scratches upon further cleaning.

At any rate...the "brush end" of second half of the first tissue is then moistened with lens cleaner, which is then applied gently in a circular motion.

My favorite lens cleaner is Formula MC (do they still make this?) - a truly brilliant formula IMHO...as it leaves a lubricating residue which then must be polished - which is where my second sheet of tissue comes into play. The thing about this residue is that it facilitates the dissolution/removal of any remaining particulates while helping to protect the lens surface from further scratching - something that a more volatile formula, such as alcohol, simply cannot do as it evaporates way too quickly IMHO.

I will on occasion, after the above procedure, perform a final "rinse" of a lens surface by gently breathing on it to fog it up a bit, then using a completely clean/dry portion of my second tissue to clear this off.

The advantage of tissues over microfiber cloths is that the tissue gets discarded after a single use...and therefore cannot "re-infect" a lens with any carryover from previous uses. Furthermore...using a microfiber in the field presents another potential issue - which is possible difficulty keeping it and its storage pouch absolutely clean over possibly long durations of time as the cloth gets repeatedly returned to this pouch...whereas a tissue never gets returned to its container.

True, a tissue does need to be used a bit more carefully than does a completely clean microfiber cloth - but I've been using tissues for over half a century with absolutely no problems.

IMHO :)

Alan Klein
9-Jun-2019, 05:52
Bad breath and a clean cotton handkerchief. Otherwise Zeiss cleaner or similar and microfiber cloth.

Bob Salomon
9-Jun-2019, 06:49
John, the reason why micro fiber cloths work is because any dust, debris, oils, etc. get trapped between the fibers of the cloth and not in the fibers. That makes them much better then tissue and just shaking it out removes much, if not all, of the debris.
And you don’t end up littering by leaving a trail of tissues behind you.

hiend61
17-Jun-2019, 13:16
Zeiss cleaning kit, Giotto´s air rocket and Kodak camel hair brush.

Most of the times I use just air rocket. If dust is persistent, I use the kodak camel hair brush, which I keep very very clean. From time to time Zeiss or Kanebo microfibre cloths, and moistened Zeiss tissues or Zeiss liquid on microfibre cloths as a last resort, the very few times I accidentally print my fingers on the lens. For filters I make exactly the same.

Drew Bedo
17-Jun-2019, 13:53
Clean lenses?

I don't do it. All my lenses wear a filter, skylight or haze, perminantly. Cap goes on before dismounting and the rear cap immediately after. Any cleaning happens to the filter.

Lenses get CLAd every 5 yrs or so. My regular lens tech takes care of the glass then . . .or as needed.

That would be Mike at Professional Camera Repair in Houston; careful, meticulous and thorough.

Two23
17-Jun-2019, 16:11
To clean filters I just run them under tap water and use a mild dish soap. For lenses I first use a rubber bulb to blow off any clinging grit, and then use a microfiber cloth GENTLY, wiping from center to edge. I never use filters for "protection." I use the lens caps instead. They won't break like a glass filter will.


Kent in SD

Alan Klein
17-Jun-2019, 18:34
Zeiss cleaning kit, Giotto´s air rocket and Kodak camel hair brush.

Most of the times I use just air rocket. If dust is persistent, I use the kodak camel hair brush, which I keep very very clean. From time to time Zeiss or Kanebo microfibre cloths, and moistened Zeiss tissues or Zeiss liquid on microfibre cloths as a last resort, the very few times I accidentally print my fingers on the lens. For filters I make exactly the same.

How do you keep the camel hair brush and microfiber cloths clean?

Bob Salomon
17-Jun-2019, 18:51
How do you keep the camel hair brush and microfiber cloths clean?

Shake out the microfiber cloth, if necessary wash it in the sink like your other delicates and air dry it.
Never touch the end of the bristles of a lens brush as doing so will leave oil from your fingers. If necessary just shake out or use the Rocket to blow away any dust or particles the brush may have picked up.

Willie
17-Jun-2019, 19:03
ROR (Residual Oil Remover) lens cleaning solution and Cotton Balls.

Works well and has for a few decades now.

Bob Salomon
17-Jun-2019, 19:58
ROR (Residual Oil Remover) lens cleaning solution and Cotton Balls.

Works well and has for a few decades now.

I found if you aren’t careful with it it can streak!

hiend61
18-Jun-2019, 13:55
How do you keep the camel hair brush and microfiber cloths clean?

Alan, apart of doing exactly as Mr Salomon says, I keep my microfiber cloths in a slim plastic bussines card keeper. Before using microfiber cloths I try to have my hands clean. I found a tiny plastic pencil case in which the Kodak camel hair brush fits perfectly, and of course, I take utmost care in not touching the bristels.

Drew Bedo
18-Jun-2019, 14:05
To clean filters I just run them under tap water and use a mild dish soap. For lenses I first use a rubber bulb to blow off any clinging grit, and then use a microfiber cloth GENTLY, wiping from center to edge. I never use filters for "protection." I use the lens caps instead. They won't break like a glass filter will.


Kent in SD

Whatever works for you . . . My lenses never see fresh air when out of doors . . lens caps protect the filters . . . ..that seems to work for me.

Bob Salomon
18-Jun-2019, 14:19
Whatever works for you . . . My lenses never see fresh air when out of doors . . lens caps protect the filters . . . ..that seems to work for me.

But one problem with view cameras is that the bellows is a dust catcher. You might leave a cap on the front to keep dust off the front of your lens filter but that won’t prevent dust on the rear lens group!

OKAROB
18-Jun-2019, 15:38
I like using CVS Lens Wipes. They are the individually wrapped microfiber wipes with isopropyl alcohol. I first started using them almost daily to clean my eyeglasses and after a year of continual use, my optometrist commented on how new my eyeglasses looked. So I began to use them on my camera lens and have been very pleased with the results. I had been using photographic microfiber cloths but kept getting getting cleaning wipe/scratches on my lens (yes I occasionally washed them). Since I went to these wipes I have not noticed any new wipe marks. I think they have just the right amount of alcohol on them and since you use a new one each time you are not worried about contamination. Sure they are individually wrapped. When in the field I just put the wrapper in my pocket or case until I get home or find a trash can. They are a little on the expensive side, but I feel worth it. This is my personal experience/opinion.

Bob Salomon
18-Jun-2019, 16:25
I like using CVS Lens Wipes. They are the individually wrapped microfiber wipes with isopropyl alcohol. I first started using them almost daily to clean my eyeglasses and after a year of continual use, my optometrist commented on how new my eyeglasses looked. So I began to use them on my camera lens and have been very pleased with the results. I had been using photographic microfiber cloths but kept getting getting cleaning wipe/scratches on my lens (yes I occasionally washed them). Since I went to these wipes I have not noticed any new wipe marks. I think they have just the right amount of alcohol on them and since you use a new one each time you are not worried about contamination. Sure they are individually wrapped. When in the field I just put the wrapper in my pocket or case until I get home or find a trash can. They are a little on the expensive side, but I feel worth it. This is my personal experience/opinion.

Maybe you should tell CVS, they don’t seem to recommend them for cameras!

“...This product is safe for coated lenses. There is no need to re-wipe your lenses with a dry cloth, making these wipes great for on the go. You can also use them on ski goggles, swim goggles, mobile phones, wrist watch glass, and TV or computer screens (except for liquid crystal screens). With so many uses, you'll want to keep several handy throughout your home.”

“...Warnings
For external use only.

Keep out of reach of children.

Do not use on eyes. Not for use with contact lenses or liquid crystal screens. Do not use on frames made of tortoise shell or gems. Do not use if rash or skin irritation is present. Do not use on lenses with scratched or damaged surfaces or with peeling or flaking coating. May cause deterioration of lenses. Flammable; keep away from open flame.”

“...Ingredients
Ingredients: Isopropyl Alcohol, Water, Fragrance.”

Wouldn’t think of using these on camera lenses, or my eye glasses!

SParis
11-Jul-2019, 13:35
I think that's CVS's lawyers talking.
They don't want somebody suing them because the customer found a "cleaning mark" on their $2000 lens. They're willing to risk that on a $200 pair of glasses.

Corran
11-Jul-2019, 13:45
T-shirt

Tin Can
11-Jul-2019, 13:57
Seldom clean them. I blow dust off with dry air.

Lens caps help.

I think the more we clean them the worse they get.

I never understood lens cleaning dry tissues like sold long ago, scratchers.

Any dust will scratch even when wet.

I only clean old lenses that are new to me and have heavy haze.

Read this and scroll down to see the images. Front Element Scratches (https://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2008/10/front-element-scratches/)

onecumulo
11-Jul-2019, 16:05
I have a different take on lens cleaning from that of most folk, I suspect. I save my Zeiss and Sensei lens cleaning papers and wipes for emergencies, which to me mean situations in which I have no access to a clean cotton ball or clean cotton swab. This goes back to my days of cleaning microscopes. I found microscopic damage to lens coatings when using lens papers, and the lens cleaning microfiber cloths are just too blasted difficult to keep clean...and once you use them, you'll have to rationalize that they are no longer clean! So, why is the cotton ball or swab superior, in my opinion? Dirt you are removing goes deeper into the fibers with the cotton ball or swab, and if you constantly present a fresh surface of the cotton fibers, will not scratch your lens. Can't say that about the lens papers, which I believe only survive on the market for their convenient packaging. Papers easily contaminated, too. After using the cotton fiber ball or swab, be it with or without lens cleaning fluid dampening, as required, I use the air puff device without the brush to blow away any loose fibers. I've been seen using it in the field with the brush in a dusty environment when I didn't want to open cotton ball pack. Believe me, I don't have any evidence of damage to coated surfaces with the swab or cotton ball cleaning method, as long as visible loose dust is puffed away before using the fiber device. This works also on optical flats, mirrors, etc., but I'd not try it on pellicles.

onecumulo
11-Jul-2019, 16:12
I used to work with specially coated optical flats, both glass and metal mirrors, and some other very fine surfaces. I saw many items damaged by scatches from KimWipes fresh from a box. I wasn't present when box was opened, so I cannot say the wipes had not been contaminated. However, a local optical shop advised me never to use those on my coated glassware. I also had some similar blue wipes that came in a 15 lbs box for 14" square wipes (believe size correct, could have been 12 X 12). I found that they were good for very fine metal shop use, but not good-enough for optically lapped metals, for it was evident that the wipes were reinforced with fine glass fibers!

Bob Salomon
11-Jul-2019, 16:19
I have a different take on lens cleaning from that of most folk, I suspect. I save my Zeiss and Sensei lens cleaning papers and wipes for emergencies, which to me mean situations in which I have no access to a clean cotton ball or clean cotton swab. This goes back to my days of cleaning microscopes. I found microscopic damage to lens coatings when using lens papers, and the lens cleaning microfiber cloths are just too blasted difficult to keep clean...and once you use them, you'll have to rationalize that they are no longer clean! So, why is the cotton ball or swab superior, in my opinion? Dirt you are removing goes deeper into the fibers with the cotton ball or swab, and if you constantly present a fresh surface of the cotton fibers, will not scratch your lens. Can't say that about the lens papers, which I believe only survive on the market for their convenient packaging. Papers easily contaminated, too. After using the cotton fiber ball or swab, be it with or without lens cleaning fluid dampening, as required, I use the air puff device without the brush to blow away any loose fibers. I've been seen using it in the field with the brush in a dusty environment when I didn't want to open cotton ball pack. Believe me, I don't have any evidence of damage to coated surfaces with the swab or cotton ball cleaning method, as long as visible loose dust is puffed away before using the fiber device. This works also on optical flats, mirrors, etc., but I'd not try it on pellicles.

When you use a microfiber cloth designed for lenses and dust or oils are trapped between the fibers and do not penetrate into the fibers. When cleaning the cloth you just wash them in a sink like other delicate fabrics, that will remove the trapped particles. Let the cloth air dry.
Always shake a microfiber cloth before use to dislodge any debris it may have captured.

You might also note that both Rodenstock and Schneider offer microfiber cleaning cloths.

Tin Can
11-Jul-2019, 16:56
Gads, I forgot about optical flats. I used them for 2 years checking test results from Lapmaster Wolters. (https://www.lapmaster-wolters.com/lapping-machines.html)

I do not recall cleaning them, but kept them safe....My first lab job.
Then I failed an entire production run. Management shipped bad parts anyway. 12 months later Detroit had major water pump seal warranty issues. Leakers.

I quit and took a long vacation.


I used to work with specially coated optical flats, both glass and metal mirrors, and some other very fine surfaces. I saw many items damaged by scatches from KimWipes fresh from a box. I wasn't present when box was opened, so I cannot say the wipes had not been contaminated. However, a local optical shop advised me never to use those on my coated glassware. I also had some similar blue wipes that came in a 15 lbs box for 14" square wipes (believe size correct, could have been 12 X 12). I found that they were good for very fine metal shop use, but not good-enough for optically lapped metals, for it was evident that the wipes were reinforced with fine glass fibers!

Tin Can
12-Jul-2019, 09:08
Found on YOUtube .

Remove old fungus with Hydrogenperoxid in Pre-Ai Nikkor 50mm 1:1.4 (https://youtu.be/5B-LfYakZ-Y)

Never tried it

Sirius Glass
13-Jul-2019, 19:10
Do not rub hard. Use a light touch.

Carsten Wolff
14-Jul-2019, 02:58
Do not rub hard. Use a light touch. Very true!
I sometimes resort to classic Windex and soft tissue and even have used metho; coated, MC, uncoated, whatever. Never made a lens worse than what it was yet. But I try to keep'em clean/often filtered in the first place AND I DON'T RUB. I still have old lenses that i've owned for 30-odd years that are minty. I don't know what's so hard about looking after glass; it ain't.

Bob Salomon
14-Jul-2019, 04:29
Very true!
I sometimes resort to classic Windex and soft tissue and even have used metho; coated, MC, uncoated, whatever. Never made a lens worse than what it was yet. But I try to keep'em clean/often filtered in the first place AND I DON'T RUB. I still have old lenses that i've owned for 30-odd years that are minty. I don't know what's so hard about looking after glass; it ain't.

Take a 20 or 40x loupe and look at the lens surface for micro marks.

Rick A
14-Jul-2019, 07:57
I toss all my lenses and filters into the dish washer and set to pots and pans. Make sure to use the heated dry setting and let'r rip.

onecumulo
15-Jul-2019, 11:37
That use of the pot scrubber setting seems like a waste of water; perhaps the use of a lapidary tumbler with abrasive triangles to knock off the more seriously stuck detritus on front and back surfaces, plus, if you were attempting to loosen shutter for your older medium and large format cameras, following up in the tumble drier on the gentle fabrics setting, might help you avoid getting damaging moisture into the lenses. Use the anti-static vinyl balls with the lenses to reduce the tendency of dust to stick on charged surfaces, of course, and don't forget to clean the drier's filter before (gently) laying your precious lenses into the drier tub.
I got rid of the slight dust on one Nikon 50mm by leaving it atop an antique generator in the town of Plymouth, California, when photographing some 19th century gold mining community grocery buildings. I never had any more worries about cleaning that lens, but I have wished I could find a replacement that I liked as much!