School me on press cameras.

[Arcus]

Hello...I'm considering buying a Speed Graphic or a Crown Graphic (or something else if you recommend) but before I pull the trigger, I had a few questions.

It seems like many of these cameras come with some variation of the 135mm f 4.7 Tessar...Kodak, Schneider and Graflex themselves. Can one get decent sharpness in the center of the frame shooting wide open (or very nearly so) with these lenses? People would be the subject, so I wouldn't need or want cutting edge sharpness, but by the same token, I wouldn't want a fuzzy mess. Also, are the rangefinders accurate at distances of around 5ft or so?

Thanks!

[Dan Fromm]

Yes. Yes, if in calibration. No if not.

A used press camera's RF should be checked as soon as the camera is received. Not because the RFs are fragile and drift out of calibration but because calibration is lens-specific (for just and only one lens, not for all lenses of the same make, model, ...) and lenses are often swapped without recalibrating the RF. Also because users sometimes fiddle with RFs.

[Fred L]

I have a Speed and Crown and have never used the rf. The window is sooo tiny as to be useless for me and my eyes and I couldn't be bothered with calibrating them so I use the gg instead. Also use cable releases vs the built in camera shutter release. I find the Graphex lenses are pretty good..at least the ones I have. But then I also use modern lenses as well so ymmv.

The Crown is slimmer and lighter but you lose the focal plane shutter, which may or may not matter to you.

[Alan Gales]

If you want a longer lens, the Rodenstock Geronar 210mm f/6.8 lens or the Caltar badged version will just fit inside the camera folded up. You will have to use the ground glass for focussing.

The Geronar 210 is dirt cheap and works great for portraits. A 135 and 210 make a great combination!

[jim_jm]

If you're photographing people relatively close (within 5 ft), with wide-open aperture, I would not depend on the accuracy of the rangefinder. Use the ground glass instead to verify focus.
A lens in the 127mm/135mm range is slightly wide for 4x5, and may not be the most flattering for portraits. I generally use a lens in the 180 - 240mm range for this type of shot.

[Arcus]

If you're photographing people relatively close (within 5 ft), with wide-open aperture, I would not depend on the accuracy of the rangefinder. Use the ground glass instead to verify focus.
A lens in the 127mm/135mm range is slightly wide for 4x5, and may not be the most flattering for portraits. I generally use a lens in the 180 - 240mm range for this type of shot.

They'd be more like environmental portraits. Regarding using the ground glass, I was wanting to be handholding. So you don't think the rangefinder on the Graflexs are precise enough? Are there any other 4x5's with rangefinders that are more accurate?

[Mark Sampson]

There are not many other rangefinder-equipped 4x5 cameras. The Linhof Technika in all its variations, Wista made one, there are old-time Graflex competitors like the Busch Pressman and the Burke&James. I imagine that the Linhof would be the most accurate, but then Ive never used one.
I'd try a Graphic first- they were and are very capable cameras; and not extremely expensive. Many people have adapted the 178/2.5 Aero-Ektar to the Speed Graphic- noted photojournalist David Burnett among them, and there are good results to be seen all over the net. So I'd say it's feasible.

[Oren Grad]

They'd be more like environmental portraits.

What do you mean by that? How far away will the main subject, the one you're focusing on, be? How much depth of field do you think you'll need to clearly show the "environment" around your subject? How big do you plan to enlarge?

Keep in mind that what matters isn't just how inherently precise the rangefinder is, but also how well your eye can discern the point of best coincidence of the rangefinder double-image through the little peep-hole, how much you move the camera from that point as you switch your eye back to the viewing finder, and how steadily you can hold the bulky, heavy camera while you wait for your "decisive moment" to make the exposure.

I'd reckon that the most precise rangefinder you can get in a 4x5 is a properly calibrated Linhof Technika with a cam carved for the specific lens (actual lens, not just lens model) you have mounted on the camera. But that's a bear to hand-hold - something like 8.5 pounds with all the trimmings (camera, lens, multifocus finder, grip, film holder), more still if you need a flash. You can save maybe a pound from that if you leave off the grip and use a wire-frame finder rather than the multifocus finder, but that's still a handful. Been there, done that.

But honestly, I think hand-held 4x5 at open aperture is the wrong tool for environmental portraiture. YMMV, but I know that if I tried it my yield of technically adequate pictures would be so low that the whole venture would be more frustration than it's worth.

EDIT: If you're determined to try it, the most lightweight 4x5 rangefinder that's readily available would be a Polaroid 110 conversion. The original-equipment lenses on those - typically 127mm - definitely do *not* cover 4x5 with edge-to-edge sharpness at open aperture, but you can have a conversion set up with a modern plasmat with better coverage.

[Oren Grad]

Many people have adapted the 178/2.5 Aero-Ektar to the Speed Graphic- noted photojournalist David Burnett among them, and there are good results to be seen all over the net.

I think even Burnett uses a tripod when he can, and he makes a lot of lovely-but-fuzzy pictures with that Aero-Ektar.

[Mark Sampson]

Arnold Newman started with a Speed Graphic and its standard lens... with that outfit me made his famous portrait of Igor Stravinsky.
Of course with success came more gear, and he used a view camera for much of his career, but my point is "it can be done". i'd put the Speed on a Tiltall tripod... but then I already have that gear. Now I'm inspired- when I get the RF fixed on my 1939 Graphic I'll try a portrait or two that way.

[Duolab123]

I have used Crown Graphics for decades, hand held with a rangefinder for focusing. One camera has the Kalart RF the other is a Pacemaker top rangefinder. The top rangefinder model is outstanding, bright RF has the cool flashlight focuspot thingy for focusing in the dark (it really works).
Press cameras were used with pre focusing on where you expected your subject to be and used long burning enormous flashbulbs.
A speed graphic allows to use barrel lenses but then your RF becomes pointless. I love the Crowns because they are so light.

You need to use the factory calibrated len, my have 135mm Xenars. I shoot Tmax 400, sunny 16 500th @f/16. Handheld zone focus easy as pie.

I use my simple no battery Fuji 6x9 rangefinders, for same stuff, helluva lot easier, but I love my Crowns.

[Oren Grad]

The issue here isn't that the OP wants to use a Graphic. It's that he wants to use it hand-held, at or near open aperture, at relatively close range. Put it on a tripod or put a big flash on it and stop down to f/16, or go out in bright sun at f/16, and it's a whole different ballgame.

There's no reason the rangefinder on a Speed is any less useful with barrel lenses. On the contrary, it's more of a nuisance to focus on the ground glass with a barrel lens on a Speed, because you have to go through the rigmarole of opening the focal plane shutter for focusing and then resetting it. Try doing that while maintaining accurate focus hand-held at close range and open aperture.

[EdSawyer]

With good calibration, the Kalart RF is usable at it's minimum focus distance (4ft) wide open, handheld. I know since I've done it many times, and with fairly fast lenses too (shallow DOF) like an aero ektar or xenotar 135. Other press cameras that have rangefinders include the Meridian 45A/B/C, which usually have a kalart rangefinder. Also some other interesting unique options that other press cameras don't have, like the extending back (ala Linhof Technika) and all-metal construction.

[Kevin Crisp]

If in working condition, and nearly all of them are even after all these years, the side-mount Kalart can be calibrated to one lens (and one only) and be quite accurate from 4' to infinity. Just follow the old Graphic instructions and don't cut corners. Pay particular attention to the instruction about the height of the target (guy with the hat). When you're done, follow the procedure a second time and then verify it with the ground glass. Unless you really bang the camera around they stay in calibration, but check it every now and then. There is one adjusting screw with a clearly labeled reverse thread on it, and even with the instruction right there on the thing it is counter-intuitive and people strip the screw and that is trouble.

A proper bed scale for your focal length can be handy too for candids. That way you don't lose the moment while fiddling with the camera while pointing it at the subject. You can pre-focus for distance, then frame it up and take the picture. If you can estimate distances (and can live with stopping down a little) the bed scale is really useful. There hasn't been a viewfinder made that is as sharp and clear as the sports-finder / hoop...

I've also preferred the Crown due to the smaller size and weight. Hopefully you can get the in-body release to work with whatever shutter you are using. This can take some work on modern shutters because the horizontal lever needs to be a little longer than for the original standard lenses, but it can be done. That way you don't have to fumble with a cable release.

[Jim Jones]

Another site with good information on the Graphic system is https://graflex.org/. I've long used the book, Graphic Graflex Photography for more extensive information. It was first published in 1940. The eighth edition of 1947 is the first to cover the Crown with side rangefinder, and the 11th edition of 1958 is the first to cover the top rangefinder Crown.

[Mark Crabtree]

I recently picked up a cheap, very funky looking, wartime Anniversary Speed Graphic thinking I could use if for parts. Of course I couldn't leave it alone and got it cleaned up and working nicely. The only reason I mention this is that I was stunned at the accurate adjustment of the rangefinder to the uncoated 127 Ektar. Dead on from minimum focus to infinity. So I guess they can be adjusted to that level; I'd just never seen it before, or managed it myself. This one looks to still be factory adjustment.

And don't rule out the 127 Ektar. I used to be dismissive of these, but they are a very fine lens. I kind of like the uncoated one that came on this camera for the sharp but smooth look; when coated they have excellent contrast. This would be a nice focal length for environmental portraits and is the most common focal length I see on Speed and Crown Graphics. I have both and they are nicely sharp in the center wide open.

[Tin Can]

WeeGee shot often by distance. His camera was set to focus at 10 feet SOME of the time. and he used big flashbulbs so he could stop down for more DOF.

https://www.icp.org/browse/archive/constituents/weegee?all/all/all/all/0

I have a plastic 4X5 that I marked focus at 5 ft and only aim through a steel wire finder. No GG, no RF needed.

This was shot handheld, at estimated 5 ft with one flash bulb on B&W film, but scanned in color which gives it a unique 'look'.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/33769578028_96cd82c8ff_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Ts6V2W)1-1-Green What (https://flic.kr/p/Ts6V2W) by TIN CAN COLLEGE (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

[Neal Chaves]

[QUOTE=Oren Grad;1499638]
"But honestly, I think hand-held 4x5 at open aperture is the wrong tool for environmental portraiture."

Here's a head and shoulders photograph of my daughter with her horse. TRF Crown in "Big Shot" mode with 210mm 5.6 Fujinon W, wide open or close to it. Vivitar 285 with bounce card.191387191388

[Arcus]

If you're determined to try it, the most lightweight 4x5 rangefinder that's readily available would be a Polaroid 110 conversion. The original-equipment lenses on those - typically 127mm - definitely do *not* cover 4x5 with edge-to-edge sharpness at open aperture, but you can have a conversion set up with a modern plasmat with better coverage.

Sounds very interesting. I did a search on Ebay and found a few very confusing offers for conversions. Who would you recommend? Can you provide me with a link? Thanks for the suggestion!

[Arcus]

If in working condition, and nearly all of them are even after all these years, the side-mount Kalart can be calibrated to one lens (and one only) and be quite accurate from 4' to infinity. Just follow the old Graphic instructions and don't cut corners. Pay particular attention to the instruction about the height of the target (guy with the hat). When you're done, follow the procedure a second time and then verify it with the ground glass. Unless you really bang the camera around they stay in calibration, but check it every now and then. There is one adjusting screw with a clearly labeled reverse thread on it, and even with the instruction right there on the thing it is counter-intuitive and people strip the screw and that is trouble.

A proper bed scale for your focal length can be handy too for candids. That way you don't lose the moment while fiddling with the camera while pointing it at the subject. You can pre-focus for distance, then frame it up and take the picture. If you can estimate distances (and can live with stopping down a little) the bed scale is really useful. There hasn't been a viewfinder made that is as sharp and clear as the sports-finder / hoop...

I've also preferred the Crown due to the smaller size and weight. Hopefully you can get the in-body release to work with whatever shutter you are using. This can take some work on modern shutters because the horizontal lever needs to be a little longer than for the original standard lenses, but it can be done. That way you don't have to fumble with a cable release.

I read somewhere that the Crowns with the top-mounted rangefinders can have a fine-tuning adjustment, but now I can't find where I read it. Do you know if the top-mounted Crowns can be adjusted? I understand they use the cam mated to the lens, but I read somewhere you can fiddle with the linkage to more accurately fine tune the system.

[Oren Grad]

Here's a head and shoulders photograph of my daughter with her horse.

I think some of us are talking past each other because we have different definitions for "environmental portrait". I'll leave it at that unless the OP chooses to elaborate on what he means by it. Then it will be clearer which of our perspectives are relevant to his purposes.

[Tin Can]

Try, https://graflex.org/



I read somewhere that the Crowns with the top-mounted rangefinders can have a fine-tuning adjustment, but now I can't find where I read it. Do you know if the top-mounted Crowns can be adjusted? I understand they use the cam mated to the lens, but I read somewhere you can fiddle with the linkage to more accurately fine tune the system.

[Oren Grad]

Sounds very interesting. I did a search on Ebay and found a few very confusing offers for conversions. Who would you recommend? Can you provide me with a link? Thanks for the suggestion!

My favorite conversion shop at the moment is this one - I'll point to his 4x5 page:

http://www.instantoptions.com/shop/4x5/

I'll add the disclaimer that the project Nate did for me was adapting an Instax Wide 300 with a view camera lens, not a 4x5 conversion. But the quality of the work and the clarity of communication along the way were first rate.

I forgot to mention one other advantage of the Polaroid conversions: you can get a combined VF/RF, so that you don't have the problem of maintaining precise focus while switching between separate VF and RF windows.

[Fred L]

I had the conversion that used the spring back, but found it stuck out too far, and being four eyed, wasn't able to get close enough to the viewfinder. Also found the springs got in the way. Work was good and it was simplest conversion. Ended up getting a Byron conversion which I find much easier to use. Also allows interchangeable lenses so I can throw a 90 Angulon on it if I need that view.

Not sure if Daniel is still converting but this is his site.

http://salihonbashome.blogspot.com/p/byron-conversion-service.html

[Arcus]

I had the conversion that used the spring back, but found it stuck out too far, and being four eyed, wasn't able to get close enough to the viewfinder. Also found the springs got in the way. Work was good and it was simplest conversion. Ended up getting a Byron conversion which I find much easier to use. Also allows interchangeable lenses so I can throw a 90 Angulon on it if I need that view.

Not sure if Daniel is still converting but this is his site.

http://salihonbashome.blogspot.com/p/byron-conversion-service.html

Wow, I took a look at his site. He does nice work. The cost is about twice what the other fellow charges though.

I sent him an email to inquire. Thanks for the info!

[AuditorOne]

I have two Crowns, one with a 135mm Optar and the other with the 127mm Ektar. Both use Kalart rangefinder and both are plenty accurate from 4 foot and beyond. Other than the perspective I really cannot see the difference between the Optar or the Ektar. Both are great little lenses.

To be honest I have far less trouble with the rangefinders (both are Kalarts) and would be more concerned about shutter speed accuracy on those old Graphex shutters.

I find both cameras to be loads of fun and very easy to use. I have used the one with the 135mm Optar for cub scout outings and always have gotten terrific shots. Most of the time when I am working with those active little youngsters I am using my depth of focus to best advantage so I'm not always trying to focus on each one of them but I have also used the rangefinder with great success.

I have never used the Polaroid conversions but they will likely be very nice as well.

[Bob Salomon]

I have two Crowns, one with a 135mm Optar and the other with the 127mm Ektar. Both use Kalart rangefinder and both are plenty accurate from 4 foot and beyond. Other than the perspective I really cannot see the difference between the Optar or the Ektar. Both are great little lenses.

To be honest I have far less trouble with the rangefinders (both are Kalarts) and would be more concerned about shutter speed accuracy on those old Graphex shutters.

I find both cameras to be loads of fun and very easy to use. I have used the one with the 135mm Optar for cub scout outings and always have gotten terrific shots. Most of the time when I am working with those active little youngsters I am using my depth of focus to best advantage so I'm not always trying to focus on each one of them but I have also used the rangefinder with great success.

I have never used the Polaroid conversions but they will likely be very nice as well.

Just for accuracy, changing the focal length of your lenses has nothing to do with perspective. The only thing that changes perspective is the angle of the camera to the subject.
To prove it,take two shots from exactly the same camera position and print them so that the subject is the same size in each. See, no change in perspective. The only difference between the two shots is field size.

[AuditorOne]

Thanks Bob. You are certainly right of course. Obviously that wasn't the right term to use here.

But short of moving the camera or cropping the result I do get a different field of view with each lens.

And both are actually very nice views...depending on the subject matter of course. :D

[EdSawyer]

Actually, the lightest with rangefinder is the Chamonix Saber (conversion/rebuild), it's far lighter than the 900-based conversions like the Byron. Speaking of which, the Byron is easily head and shoulders above the rest of the pack, when it comes to 110/900 type conversions.




Sounds very interesting. I did a search on Ebay and found a few very confusing offers for conversions. Who would you recommend? Can you provide me with a link? Thanks for the suggestion!

[Duolab123]

The issue here isn't that the OP wants to use a Graphic. It's that he wants to use it hand-held, at or near open aperture, at relatively close range. Put it on a tripod or put a big flash on it and stop down to f/16, or go out in bright sun at f/16, and it's a whole different ballgame.

There's no reason the rangefinder on a Speed is any less useful with barrel lenses. On the contrary, it's more of a nuisance to focus on the ground glass with a barrel lens on a Speed, because you have to go through the rigmarole of opening the focal plane shutter for focusing and then resetting it. Try doing that while maintaining accurate focus hand-held at close range and open aperture.

Only lens that will work on a speed with rangefinder is the one that came with it from the factory. .. You can't switch anything without it going off. I have had Speeds and Crowns both work great wide open with proper calibration. My top rangefinder has interchangeable cams, it's great if you can find a cam that matches your lens it's not focal length only.

[Duolab123]

[QUOTE=Oren Grad;1499638]
"But honestly, I think hand-held 4x5 at open aperture is the wrong tool for environmental portraiture."

Here's a head and shoulders photograph of my daughter with her horse. TRF Crown in "Big Shot" mode with 210mm 5.6 Fujinon W, wide open or close to it. Vivitar 285 with bounce card.191387191388

That's the camera I have. Even has parallax correction. Has a place for AA batteries for focus spot, focus until you can see a sharp image of the bulb filament. Cool as hell. I have the standard Xenar 135 lens. RF is dead on. There's guys that make cams. Not me :eek: I love how light the Crown is. The final all metal Graphic has got easy to change cams lens etc. Just like a Linhof too damn heavy!

[Oren Grad]

Only lens that will work on a speed with rangefinder is the one that came with it from the factory. ..

OK, I see. You have a top-RF Graphic. The models with side-RF can of course be adjusted for any lens within their focal-length range, barrel or shutter.

[Jim Jones]

A top rangefinder Graphic can also be fitted with a side rangefinder to permit easy switching between two lenses with different focal lengths.

[Kevin Crisp]

If you have two bed scales, you can, after a fashion, still use the side-mounted rangefinder. Say you've got a bed scale and a rangefinder set up for a 135mm lens. Put on a 210, then focus using the rangefinder. Now read the scale for the 135 lens. Now (if you're not best at estimating distances) you have a distance. Set the camera at that distance using the 210mm scale and you're there.

If there is some adjustment available on a top-mounted rangefinder (other than changing cams) this is the first time I've heard that.

[Kevin Crisp]

By the way, a top-mount rangefinder Crown in really nice condition with two factory lenses, the big storage box, film holders and so forth just popped up on the Los Angeles CL for $295. You used to see deals like that 15 years ago. Seller claims the shutters are working. Having three I don't need another, but if I did that is a real deal.

[Lethargus]

I love my crown and my speed. I thought I'd use the crown far more than the speed, but when I swap out lenses I love having the consistent shutter speeds from the speed. I have too hard a time using the rangefinder on the crown, so I've put 2 of the range plates down on the rails for the two lenses I use most and rely on it and the ground glass. Ground glass is really the only way to know for sure what you're getting, and I shoot hand held when firing faster than 1/100. Definitely good starter cameras but also quite heavy. You need strong forearms for use without a tripod. But then, I've never used any of the mentioned conversions.

[Duolab123]

OK, I see. You have a top-RF Graphic. The models with side-RF can of course be adjusted for any lens within their focal-length range, barrel or shutter.

More power to you if you have the dexterity to adjust Kalart rangefinders. It's over my skill set.:eek: Trying to figure out infinity stops?. Graflex made scores of cams for every possible factory-installed lens. They still ended up calibrating each camera lens combination. I even have a original Kalart booklet on adjusting the darn things. Scared me . I had a old Crown that one of the rangefinder mirrors was shot. I took apart a Polaroid Big Shot and glued that mirror on top of the original. Worked great I was afraid of breaking the thing, it was the least invasive approach :o

[Oren Grad]

More power to you if you have the dexterity to adjust Kalart rangefinders.

I don't. Butchered one, since then I've farmed out the task to people who know what they're doing. :o

For those who aren't familiar and who are considering a Graphic for the first time, adjusting a side-RF for a new lens is *not* something you can reasonably do on the fly. You set up your camera for one lens and leave it that way. Of course you can always focus other lenses via the ground glass.

[Tin Can]

I also gave up.

I did find a couple tiny format 2X3 sheet film cameras which are untouched and the RF works fine.

4X5 and up are usually not fine.

Experts are in order and hard to source.


I don't. Butchered one, since then I've farmed out the task to people who know what they're doing. :o

For those who aren't familiar and who are considering a Graphic for the first time, adjusting a side-RF for a new lens is *not* something you can reasonably do on the fly. You set up your camera for one lens and leave it that way. Of course you can always focus other lenses via the ground glass.

[Arcus]

So i picked up a Crown Graphic in nice condition yesterday, mated with a 135mm f 4.5 Schneider Xenar. According to a serial number list I found online, my camera/lens combo was manufactured in late 1959, or early 1960. First thing I did was to check the accuracy of the top-mounted rangefinder. I only had time to check it at near distances, (~60 inches) but the thing is dead-on accurate wide open. I couldn't focus any more precisely using my 8x loupe on the ground-glass. Pleased as punch! Now I await my tri-x and Ebay-film holders...

[Jim Noel]

Only lens that will work on a speed with rangefinder is the one that came with it from the factory. .. You can't switch anything without it going off. I have had Speeds and Crowns both work great wide open with proper calibration. My top rangefinder has interchangeable cams, it's great if you can find a cam that matches your lens it's not focal length only.

Side mounted Kalart rangefinders are easy to adjust for use with different focal lengths. It does require removal of the cover,and a stationery platform and focalpoint, so it is not a field alteration.

[Arcus]

A top rangefinder Graphic can also be fitted with a side rangefinder to permit easy switching between two lenses with different focal lengths.

Interesting. How would that be done? Would you scavenge a Kalart from a Speed Graphic? Can a Kalart rangefinder be taken off a Graflex 2x3 and installed on the Crown?

[Duolab123]

So i picked up a Crown Graphic in nice condition yesterday, mated with a 135mm f 4.5 Schneider Xenar. According to a serial number list I found online, my camera/lens combo was manufactured in late 1959, or early 1960. First thing I did was to check the accuracy of the top-mounted rangefinder. I only had time to check it at near distances, (~60 inches) but the thing is dead-on accurate wide open. I couldn't focus any more precisely using my 8x loupe on the ground-glass. Pleased as punch! Now I await my tri-x and Ebay-film holders...

I've got a top and side rangefinder Crown with same lens 135mm Xenar. The rangefinders are deadly accurate.

[Dan Fromm]

Interesting. How would that be done? Would you scavenge a Kalart from a Speed Graphic? Can a Kalart rangefinder be taken off a Graflex 2x3 and installed on the Crown?

There are many versions of the Kalart range finder. I don't believe that the Kalarts used on 2x3 Graphics can be used on 4x5ers.

You should be able to scavenge a Kalart from a Pacemaker Graphic, not from an earlier Speed Graphic.

If you find a Kalart, you'll need mounting instructions. I b'lieve they came with a template for drilling the mounting holes.

New old stock Kalarts are basically unobtanium. Since you have a top RF Crown, you'd probably be better off learning to make and change cams.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Now I know how very lucky I was to find a Super Technika 4x5 V with three lenses with cams matching the camera serial number and each lens serial number. I feel blessed. (There has been some speculation that the V offered no-such. I don't know, but transition models do happen.)

[Tin Can]

I installed a tiny laser inside the FocuSpot and use it only on inanimate objects.

It makes focusing at night easy. Also works in daylight.

I posted it some years ago in DIY.

The usual warnings apply.

Don't use on any creature with working eyes.

I am working on enlarger and studio camera auto focus as my eyes are crap.

New IR distance sensors are cheap. A feedback loop may help me.

The question now, is 850 to 950 nm IR safe for eyes. (https://medium.com/@alex.kilpatrick/ir-illumination-and-eye-safety-f0804673ca7)

Read that and think about it.

[Bob Salomon]

Now I know how very lucky I was to find a Super Technika 4x5 V with three lenses with cams matching the camera serial number and each lens serial number. I feel blessed. (There has been some speculation that the V offered no-such. I don't know, but transition models do happen.)

No transition models. It is a IV or a V. However, both models were available at the same time for a while so your cams and camera were probably crammed at that time. That would probably mean that it occurred around late 63.

[Jac@stafford.net]

No transition models. It is a IV or a V. However, both models were available at the same time for a while so your cams and camera were probably crammed at that time. That would probably mean that it occurred around late 63.

Thank you, Bob.

[Arcus]

There are many versions of the Kalart range finder. I don't believe that the Kalarts used on 2x3 Graphics can be used on 4x5ers.

You should be able to scavenge a Kalart from a Pacemaker Graphic, not from an earlier Speed Graphic.

If you find a Kalart, you'll need mounting instructions. I b'lieve they came with a template for drilling the mounting holes.

New old stock Kalarts are basically unobtanium. Since you have a top RF Crown, you'd probably be better off learning to make and change cams.

Craft my own cams...sound very challenging, but I do like challenges. One would think that these days with computer technology and 3D-printers it should be easy.

[Dan Fromm]

Craft my own cams...sound very challenging, but I do like challenges. One would think that these days with computer technology and 3D-printers it should be easy.

Visit graflex.org. Many discussions about how to make cams there, also, if I recall correctly, templates.