Ilford FP4+ Developer Inquiry

[Salmo22]

I'm returning to LF after a hiatus of many years. Previously, I shot Fuji Velvia 50 exclusively and had the sheets developed at the lab. Now I intend to shoot PF4+ and develop myself at home. I'm tempted to use Ilford's DDX, but wanted to get some input before buying my chemicals.

Accordingly, what is your favorite developer for FP4+?

Thanks in advance.

[Tin Can]

Rodinol

[angusparker]

My take on my favorite three developers: https://www.angusparkerphoto.com/blog/2017/1/my-favorite-black-white-developers

[Two23]

I've been using hc110 with great success. Easy to use and consistent results. I have the Stearman sp445 tank which is very easy and hard to screw up.

Kent in SD

[Michael Kadillak]

Go with your instincts and use DDX. I acquired a bottle of it recently and was very impressed with the results and in concentrate it is quick and easy to use. Its only downside is it is not cheap. FP4+ is enormously accommodating to a host of developers and everyone has their favorite and there is no right or wrong answer. Glad you are getting back in the game. I am also a fan of Ilford multi grade printing papers as well which are designed to respond more favorably to a lower net film density than you may remember.

[Leigh]

Rodinal.

- Leigh

[Vaughn]

The decision will also hinge on your planned use of the negatives; silver printing, alt printing, contact printing, scanning, or so on.

I print in platinum and in carbon, so my contrast needs are quite different than silver printing, which can be different if you will be only scanning the negatives.

[rdeloe]

HC-110 is a good general purpose developer and very convenient to use. It's also cheap.

I'm currently using Xtol and like it a lot. It's more expensive than HC-110, and less convenient to use than HC-110 (only in the sense that you have to mix it up from powder). Once you have the stock solution divided up into convenient containers it's easy enough. I mix up a batch and store it in 250ml mason jars. I use the Stearman SP-445, so one 250ml jar of stock plus 250ml of distilled water gives me the working solution to fill that tank. I chose Xtol because I shoot primarily TMAX 400. Were I shooting FP4+ or HP5+ I could be happy with HC-110. (By the way, if you're shooting sheet film, I would give HP5+ a good hard look; in side-by-side comparisons of FP4+ and HP5+ I didn't see a marked advantage on any dimension from FP4+ -- and the speed bump of HP5+ is well worth it to me.)

Regarding contrast, how you develop may have as much to do with the result as what developer you use. I just compared four scenes, each shot on TMax 400 with two negatives (same basic overall exposure). I developed the first shot for each scene in Xtol 8 minutes 45 seconds, four agitations every minute. I did the second one for each scene with same developer, same time, but four agitations every 30 seconds. That's a significant increase in agitation, and it produced a very noticeable increase in contrast.

My two cents: just pick one that's available and convenient, and stick with it until you understand it well. Based on sheer convenience and cost alone, HC-110 would be a good choice.

[jp]

Practically no other developer than pyrocat hd and it's variants... I use and like pyrocat hdc since it works the same as hd and has one less ingredient to source.

If I couldn't do that, probably D76 which can also be versatile.

[Andrew O'Neill]

Pyrocat-HD.
Xtol 1+1.

[Kiwi7475]

Pyro for sure gives me the results I like best. Better than D76, rodinal, etc.

But this is of course subjective, so you’ll find as many answers as good developers.

[Drew Wiley]

It's quite compatible with a variety of developers. Originally I used Perceptol, but now for many years have exclusively used PMK pyro.

[Havoc]

Can't help but like the result in ID11 stock.

[docw]

I'm returning to LF after a hiatus of many years. Previously, I shot Fuji Velvia 50 exclusively and had the sheets developed at the lab. Now I intend to shoot PF4+ and develop myself at home. I'm tempted to use Ilford's DDX, but wanted to get some input before buying my chemicals.

Accordingly, what is your favorite developer for FP4+?

Thanks in advance.

As others have said, there are a lot of equally valid suggestions. HC-110 is an excellent choice for a number of reasons.

1) It has a very long shelf life.

2) Although you can mix up a stock solution (with a limited shelf life), it is very economical to mix it directly from concentrate using a small syringe (the kind you get with some cough medicines)

3) It is very versatile and can be used in just about any dilution to control contrast.

[Pere Casals]

Accordingly, what is your favorite developer for FP4+?

I use Xtol, wich is my favourite developer, also for fp4+. IMHO Xtol is technically very difficult to beat, 1/3 speed advantage in the shadows vs D-76. Finer grain (stock) while sharper, what looks contradictory, but it's what Kodak says:

191297

And also it is vitamin c based (Ascorbic acid), so very low toxicity and environment friendly. I mix the stock solution with (deionized) distilled water, and lasts more than one year. I use it 1:1 mixed with tap water.

Of course one may like many developers because of many reasons, but I find xtol is one of the the best choices for general usage, so a good choice to start with.

This is the effect vs rodinal, that is seen exagerated in P3200, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WSvQh17SxkE Rodinal is also a fantastic developer, but one needs to know why wanting to use it.

[koraks]

Pyrocat-HD.
Xtol 1+1.

Pretty much what I do mostly at the moment. With some 510-Pyro thrown in once in a while, but I like the tonality better that pyrocat and mytol/xtol give.

[Henry Ambrose]

DDX is surely good and very convenient too. Xtol is good. Hard to go wrong with FP4 anyway.

[Ken Lee]

Accordingly, what is your favorite developer for FP4+?

I've worked with a variety and settled on one I can prepare just before use, from the actual ingredients (there are only 2). You might find this article on D-23 Developer (http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/tech/D-23.php) helpful.

If you are willing to purchase a scale you can mix all your own chemistry on demand and use formulas that are simple and effective. See "Odorless Stop Bath" and "Favorite Fixer: Alkaline" here (http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/tech/index.php#stopbath).

[Salmo22]

Excellent comments and suggestions - thank you all.

Since I do not have a traditional darkroom in my home, I'll be using a Stearman SP-445 tank that will let me develop 4 sheets at a time. I'm excited to get started.

[rdeloe]

It's an excellent solution for people who don't have a darkroom at home. Tim (the creator) has a bunch of videos you should watch. In particular, watch the one about squeezing the tank before sealing! If you don't squeeze it as shown in the video, it leaks and you'll think it's defective. If you squeeze it properly, it works perfectly.


Excellent comments and suggestions - thank you all.

Since I do not have a traditional darkroom in my home, I'll be using a Stearman SP-445 tank that will let me develop 4 sheets at a time. I'm excited to get started.