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View Full Version : Jobo CPP3 instructions useless, help needed!



Tim V
30-Apr-2019, 04:48
Hi all,

I've finally had a chance to fill up and turn on a newly aquired Jobo CPP3 processor with lift. I have both 3005 and 3010 expert drums.

The instructions that arrived with the machine are horribly vague and I'm hoping people here might help with a couple of quesitons.

1: If I'm setting up a preset process (eg. Pyrocat-HD, 2:2:100 @ 22 degrees C. for HP5+,) and I select Expert Drum, it seems like I can't reduce the rotation speed at all. Am I correct in thinking this is set in stone in this mode?

and in addition to the above...

2: If I use manual mode instead and define for example a 25rpm rotation speed (to reduce oxidisation of pyro,) I can't select Expert Drum at all, meaning the drum only competes half a revolution before it reverses (I didn't count, but when Expert Drum is defined in the Auto process it seems to rotate about twice before reversing?) Am I missing something here? Is there another option within Manual I have missed to specify the type of drum being used? Seems weird that the manual mode wouldn't accommodate Expert Drums by rotating them appropriately.

And lastly:

3: How do people drain the unit properly? It seems almost impossible to drain the bath completely without perhaps turning it upside down. And is the unit really self cleaning? Does refilling the wash water through the lift really do enough to clean the line ready for the next run, or do people do additional steps for this?

Thanks again for your help!

Tim

agregov
30-Apr-2019, 08:46
I came from using a CPA2 and really like the CPP3. I've been using the CPP3 for several years and can offer some thoughts based on my experiences.

For #1 [change rotation speed], as far as I know you cannot program two different rotation speeds into the auto program. For #2 [manual mode], when you're in manual mode there is no need to specify type of drum you are using. I didn't even know that was possible. For #3 [drain/cleaning], I first unplug and then drain the machine using its water release at the bottom of the unit. That will remove about 90% of the water. I tip the machine up on its end so I can get the remaining water out of its drain. Finally to get out all water, I flip the unit over to get any last remnants and then leave the unit upside down to dry. As for self cleaning, I put three water washes at the end of my processing (pyrocat, c41) and have never had a problem with chemical residue. But I do use a film washer outside of the machine. If you don't use a film washer, I'd then double the number of washes to 6. It's less for the machine and more for the film.

Some general thoughts...

I too tried to use the auto programming functionality and found it complicating and limiting. I think Jobo tried to migrate some of the functionality from their auto processors to the CPP line. But the original design of the CPP was as a manual assist processor. I think that's the best way to use it--without the programming. The obvious advantage is it allows you to change the rotation speed as necessary.

For Pyrocat HD development, I do not go to the slowest rotation speed (25). I keep it around 32. I know Sandy says to put the rotation speed at its lowest level but frankly I worry that its too slow to get even development. I develop FP4 on the 3010 with a 1:1:100 dilution for 8m with a rotation speed at 32 using 1L of chemistry and see no issues with oxidation. Note, I only use the slow 32 speed for the developer phase. I increase the speed to normal (48-50) for stop, fix, hypo and washes.

Finally, regarding the cold water intake, I would beware of putting in water that was warmer than your desired temperature. The processor will in this case try to pull cold water from the intake. If you don't have the hooked up, it will keep trying to bring cool water in. I'm convinced that damaged the pump somehow in my processor. Required a repair by Catlabs. I just make sure to always put water into the processor that is colder than needed and let the processor heat itself. That way I don't have to mess with the cold water intake which I find more of a headache than helpful.

Good luck with the processor. It's a great tool. Can't imagine not having access to a Jobo. For 4x5 processing, it's ideal with a 3010 tank. For lager formats like 5x7 and 8x10, a little less so because you can process so many less sheets at one time. For example, Michael Smith used to process up to 14 8x10 sheets at once in a 11x14 tray. Obviously, can't do that with a Jobo.

ic-racer
30-Apr-2019, 11:56
I did a ten-year cleanup and inspection of my CPP2 a few years ago. I did not like the ten-years of grime built up in the bottom tank due to water always being left in there after draining.

Now, after draining as much as I can from the spigot, I prop it up with the spigot up, and use Turkey Baster to remove the last bits of water through the bottle holes and use a sponge to finish it off. Two years now and the inside still looks like new.

Tim V
30-Apr-2019, 13:13
Thanks guys,

The problem or question I have regarding the manual mode is that if I specify 25RPM as per Sandy King's instructions for use with Pyrocat-HD, then the Expert drum only rotates about a half a revolution before reversing. In Auto mode it rotates several times before reversing, and this would no doubt help with more even film processing especially with 8x10" sheets. Is this simply a matter of the RPM being set too low for the gear ratio of the larger Expert Drum? Is there something I'm missing here? I hope these questions makes sense...

Regardless, I'll try and test again today. I have't run any film though it yet as I obviously want to feel 100% confident in the process.

Thanks again,

Tim

Tim V
2-May-2019, 00:57
I’ve processed 15 sheets now and all seems good.

Just wondering though, is it normal for the 8x10” sheets to move / slide slightly out of the expert drum during processing? When I load, I’ve been careful to push the film all the way to the bottom with the middle of the bend of the film in the centre of the drum. When unloading many sheets have moved so the ends are poking out a bit at the opening, and also seem to have rotated slightly... as far as I can see so far there’s no sign of unevenness, but I’m yet to do proper test prints-I will before processing any more.

I’ve been using Pyrocat-HD mixed 2:2:100 with a rotation speed of 40rpm as any slower the drum doesn’t seem to rotate a full revolution before reversing. Still can’t figure out why, as I thought it was controlled by a mechanical switch... anyway, can’t see signs of oxidisation and base fog looks good. Am I right in thinking that the rotation speed has negligible to no effect on contrast as in effect its all considered constant agitation and at 25rpm let alone 40rpm fresh developer is moved across the film surface before it exhausts regardless?

Thanks,

T