Nikkor W150mm f5.6-recently purchased - loose mounting

[E.Ram]

Hi All,

I am new to Large format photography and have recently bought a Nikkor W150mm f5.6 from eBay to try first. The lens is in mint condition but the lens board that came with the lens is loose. I asked the seller about this issue and simply got a reply that I could return the product for free since it comes under free returns policy.

I haven't tried to fix the problem since I have no knowledge of this. Is this something I can fix-any advise would be helpful. Alternately I can return this prodcut...The lens board has no name...

Kind regards,
ER

[Greg]

Probably an easy fix of just getting another lens board, and probably you can get another lens board from someone on the FORUM for little money. Post an image...

[Two23]

I wouldn't return a lens because of that.


Kent in SD

[E.Ram]

thank you Greg & Two23. Yes, I don't want to return the lens.. will post an image

[Paul Ron]

lens board lose on the camera or the lens is lose on the lens board?

remove the rear cell.
try tightening the retainer ring? if its tight but the lens is still lose, you need a spacer or washer under the retaining ring.

lose lens board on the camera?... you need to get the correct lens board for your camer that has the correct size hole to mount your shutter size.

[Pere Casals]

but the lens board that came with the lens is loose.

Just tighten the reatining ring.

Get an Spanner Wrench, or a dedicated tool:

186391

Large Format Retaining Ring Remover

[Bernice Loui]

The problem is more than likely a loose shutter retaining ring or the shutter was mounted with the shutter locating pin in place without a locating hole on the lens board.

Check for a shutter locating pin between the front of the lens board and shutter body. Use a flashlight pointed between the front of the lens board and body of the shutter. If there is a pin without a pin locating hole, the pin will need to be removed then the shutter retaining ring properly secured.

If there is no shutter locating pin, the shutter retaining ring is loose (not a significant problem, easy to correct).

Before proceeding, have a GOOD lens spanner wrench ready. The plate style sold by Rodenstock works GOOD. The adjustable ones can slip causing damage to the precision optical bits involved. A good set of precision watchmaker's screwdrivers and watch oil if available. If not a similar very low viscosity oil will do.

The oil is used on the precision very fine pitch threads to prevent stuck thread in the future. Apply a very small amount of oil during re-assembly of the threaded shutter retaining ring and rear lens cell threads. Do not get any oil on to the rear lens cell glass. While this is optional, this is a good preventive measure for the precision threads involved. Excessive torque on the precision threaded parts will cause excessive problems.

~~~~

Carefully un-screw the rear lens cell by holding the shutter, then turn the rear lens cell counter clockwise with great care. The rear lens cell will come away from the rear of the shutter. As the rear lens cell nears complete disengagement with the threads on the shutter, do not allow the lens cell glass to come in contact with the shutter's threaded area or the lens cell glass can be scratched.

Remove the shutter retaining ring with the the spanner wrench if there is a shutter locating pin.

If there is no shutter retaining pin, position the shutter to the desired shutter body position on the lens board. Tighten the shutter retaining ring with the spanner wrench and reinstall the rear lens cell.

If there is a shutter locating pin and a locating hole on the lens board. Match up the pin and hole then tighten the shutter retaining ring. Reinstall the rear lens cell.

If there is a shutter locating pin with NO locating hole on the lens board. Remove the shutter with front lens cell from the lens board. Using the proper watchmaker screwdriver, unscrew the locating pin from the shutter body. Put this pin in a safe holding-storage container. Put the shutter with front lens cell back on to the front of the lens board. Install the retaining ring and tighten. Once the shutter retaining ring is secured, reinstall the rear lens cell, done.


Bernice

[E.Ram]

Hi All, thanks for your suggestions- I have just unscrew ed the rear element and tighten the retaining ring. The lens board is tight now. Hope it is alright ....

[Luis-F-S]

Makes one wonder whom you bought the lens from that would tell you to return it instead of tightening it.

[Neal Chaves]

Another possibility that frequently arises with the Pacemaker Graphic lens boards and clones that I use is that the board is too thin for the jam nut. What is required is to thin out the jam nut shoulder on a piece of sand paper until the nut tightens against the board rather than the shutter. It looks like your lens might be in a Graphic clone board which can be thinner than original. Another problem with the clones is that they can have a longer lip (the rolled over edge of the board) which may fit in a Toyo adapter board or old Toyo field cameras, but not in a Pacemaker Graphic.

[E.Ram]

Hi All,

I am overwhelmed by your responses-thanks again to all. Bit of history about my photography journey...I am a hobbyist and started shooting first with Nikon F65 film dslr in the year 2000 if I recall correctly. Then bought Olympus 4/3 rd 10MP DSLR in 2007 and used it for few years before switching to Nikon D610. Despite shooting digital for a while, I have been drawn more towards my old 35mm film pictures (I don't know why). I am really looking forward to my first 4x5 picture, However I don't have a camera yet and hoping to have one soon..I'll keep you posted..

[Pere Casals]

I have been drawn more towards my old 35mm film pictures (I don't know why).

You are not alone, Eon Productions switched to digital cameras for 007 Skyfall(2012) but they were drawn to film capture for Spectre (2015 film). Right now Star Wars Episode IX (2019) is being shot on film, as mainly it was last Jurasic World Fallen Kingdom (2018), or Mission Impossible 6: Fallout (2018).


When you spot a 4x5 camera just ask here and you'll get good advice from many, say your aprox budget, usage you plan and what camera are you considering...

[E.Ram]

Sure will do..

[pendennis]

Hi All,

I am overwhelmed by your responses-thanks again to all. Bit of history about my photography journey...I am a hobbyist and started shooting first with Nikon F65 film dslr in the year 2000 if I recall correctly. Then bought Olympus 4/3 rd 10MP DSLR in 2007 and used it for few years before switching to Nikon D610. Despite shooting digital for a while, I have been drawn more towards my old 35mm film pictures (I don't know why). I am really looking forward to my first 4x5 picture, However I don't have a camera yet and hoping to have one soon..I'll keep you posted..

I started out in the 60's with an Argus C3, and developed my skills, shooting professionally, and now back to my hobby roots. I've started shooting 4x5 again, and getting ready to add another lens.

The digital and film worlds are two completely different art forms. Grain is not pixels, and vice versa. Where I really got fired up, though, was when I started to scan my 35mm, medium format, and 4x5 negatives and transparencies. It created a virtual 3rd world of art. My transparencies of medium and large formats were printed using internegs. While they performed a valuable method of getting film to paper, I never quite got the image I'd envisioned. Too much contrast, for the most part, and the lab folks and I never saw eye-to-eye.

Enter the scanner. I created TIFF's and went to work. Suddenly, I got images which I'd envisioned, but never achieved. Now my walls are adorned with images that fit my original vision. Now, I still shoot 4x5, and it has opened up a new view, quite literally.

Good luck in your search and efforts.

[E.Ram]

I started out in the 60's with an Argus C3, and developed my skills, shooting professionally, and now back to my hobby roots. I've started shooting 4x5 again, and getting ready to add another lens.

The digital and film worlds are two completely different art forms. Grain is not pixels, and vice versa. Where I really got fired up, though, was when I started to scan my 35mm, medium format, and 4x5 negatives and transparencies. It created a virtual 3rd world of art. My transparencies of medium and large formats were printed using internegs. While they performed a valuable method of getting film to paper, I never quite got the image I'd envisioned. Too much contrast, for the most part, and the lab folks and I never saw eye-to-eye.

Enter the scanner. I created TIFF's and went to work. Suddenly, I got images which I'd envisioned, but never achieved. Now my walls are adorned with images that fit my original vision. Now, I still shoot 4x5, and it has opened up a new view, quite literally.

Good luck in your search and efforts.

Thanks Dennis for sharing your experience. With film photography, now I have learnt that I don't simply point & shoot when I see an image. This is helping me even when I use my digital camera that I need to slowdown and I am still learning....