Mido II 8x10 holders.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

I got a hold of 8 of these holders with the clam shell. Seems to me the weak point could be light leaks around the clam shell. For those of you using these holders, would it be worth it to replace the felt with something thicker like velvet to prevent light leaks?

[Michael Jones]

When they first came out, about 1994, I had a set in which every piece except the clamshell replaced. The first slides were not a smooth flat texture; there was a pattern in the material almost like burlap. Mr. Mido told me the first slides he made were a composite material beginning with a fabric and he later changed to a traditional looking slide material. The holders were taped together with some "sooperdooper" metal tape that leaked light around the edges. He changed to something else and that worked. After all the repairs, I used them for several years with no problems. They are relatively fragile, so be careful with the holders and not put weight on it or hit the edges. Don't pry too hard on the retaining clips. But as I said, I never had problems with the clamshell.

Good luck.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Thanks Michael, I see some of the problems you mention, I had to reglue some of the light traps for the loading flaps, but my main concern was the clam shell. I guess I will try them and see.

[Doremus Scudder]

Jorge,

I've used the 4x5 version of Mido II holders for a while (some years) on and off. I find them really nice when weight is of prime concern. Loading is a pain, but worth it on a long hike.

My light leak problems were never with the clamshell, but always with the sides of the sealed holders themselves. I finally taped all the edges on my holders with metal tape, which solved the problem.

I second the fragile comment above. I would imagine that 8x10 Mido holders would be even more susceptible. Good luck.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

but always with the sides of the sealed holders themselves

I dont understand this, do you mean the actual film holder material was not light tight? This does not sound like a good thing!!!!!!

[Michael Jones]

No, I believe we're both referring to the tape that holds the sides together. The holder is 2 pieces taped together and the tape along the edges is the weak link.

Mike

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Ah.....whew, you had me worried for a moment there...Ok, I can see where the tape that holds the clam shell is not light tight, specially after it is old. I will retape it just to make sure.... Thanks once more!

[tim atherton]

Biggest thing is they are more fragile and take a little more carful handling.

There were several different models of clamshell - later ones had a little pin and latch assemply on the open end (same idea as the way a deardoff back hooks on the top - but coming from the side around the end and just using thin strips of right angle metal). Older ones don't have these, but the pins do keep the clamshell more firmly closed in use.

Yes, also the tape on the clamshell. I also replaced the felt on my older "original" style clamshell as it was fairly well used (adhesive telescope flocking from Edmiund scientific is perfect) . My newer clamshell never needed that.

As well, the flap tape on the actual holders can wear thin - I think that unlike a traditonal holder, the flaps are not entirely light tight without the tape. I found some then black metalized 3M tape that was perfect.

Finally, "technique" is a bit more important - because the holder themselves are so thin and felixible, it's easy to flex the top too much when sliding the darkslides in and out and let light in that way - developing a smooth technique helps. My last few I found on ebay were still in the box and had a little instruction sheet. Once the holder and clamshell were in the camera, it advised pulling the darkslide out so that it is sort of curving away backwards from the camera very slightly to help with this (and possibly placing a thumb behind the top of the holder/back if the back sprigns are weak so it doesn't open...).

WhenI first got mine I got a number of light leaks and spent ages looking for possiblilites and getting frustrated. It turned out to be 90% technique - making sure they were tight and square in the clamshell before putting them in the back (that newer pin arrangement helps), flexing it too much putting the darkslide in an out etc. Now that stuff is second nature

They are a bit more fiddly, but it is just so much easier to take 10 or 12 along somehwere now - and I don't remember the last time I got a light leak (and no more than in some of my older fidelity holders)

I keep lookign around for a nice suitable padded bag to keep them in - I have a couple of ol;d siptop cooler bags that are great and an exact fit for 6 or 8 standard holders, but just too short for the Midos - haeven't found one that's just right for them yet.

BTW - on some of the older well used Mido holders the metal parts of the film insert flap can sepearte - you just fix it with super glue, which is what Shin Kumanomido used in the first place.

[Jorge Gasteazoro]

Thanks Tim, yes the metal parts separated and I had to reglue them, this is the problem with super glue, it gets brittle and loosed adhesion.

I checked for light leaks in the darkroom and at appears the felt on the clam shell is ok, so I will follow your advice on technique, hopefully all will go well tomorrow.

[Doremus Scudder]

Jorge,

Yes, I did mean the edges of the film holders themselves. The outer sleeve of my filmholders are two pieces of plastic material laid face-to-face and fastened with an "opaque" tape at the edges. This tape is not as opaque as it should be, especially when exposed to direct, bright sunlight. That is why I taped over the top of them with metal foil tape (all my holders have a "chrome trim strip" now...). A little care is required taking them in and out of the clamshell so the metal tape does not get damaged, but otherwise, the light leak problems are solved. Hope this helps.