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View Full Version : How hard can it be to use an SP445?



Steven Ruttenberg
25-Nov-2018, 17:34
When I first got it, I had no problems. Now that I have used it a while, I get issues. White dots on the negatives, swirl marks on the film along 1 edge (always the edges with sky in them, even from film in same holder which would reverse sky positions from one another when developing. Happens whether or not there is pre-soak, etc. Not to mention other weird stuff with under development in corners and such (not lens issue as it happens with any of my lenses and regardless of film holders as well.) Perhaps I need to just use trays or buy a better daylight tank. I know some have no issues, but how hard can this be? It isn't rocket science.

Mix developer, stop bath, fixer, hypoclear to proper dilutions, stabilize at correct temp 68 degrees, then pour, develop, etc. I agitate properly or so I think I am, I do an initial agitation (not hard), the rotate every thirty seconds or as prescribed by developer, pour out, put in stop bath, same thing, fixer, etc.

I wonder if it is because I hold the tank at a slight angle as I pour the chemicals in if that would do it? I wouldn't think so, but never know. Weird that it is always around the edges of every piece of film I develop that has that problem Here is an example from latest. Tmax developer. This is one of the worst ones, but it looks like it was the edges got all jacked up on both long edges, so it definitely is something I am doing wrong with the SP445. Used fresh developer as well. Again, it isn't the holders as it will do this with new holders and old holders. I have gotten great negatives from the SP445, but lately getting crap. Any thoughts? Feel free to down the tif file and process the way you normally do if you are so inclined. It is a raw tif that I applied at gamma 2.2 to and saved as 10x8 at 300dpi. Notch is on upper right of film. Tmax100, f22, 90mm Schneider f/5.6 Super Angulon at 2 seconds. Not filters.

Help appreciated, not snide/rude or otherwise non-helpful comments not needed. I am trying to learn what is causing this and not do it in the future and hopefully this will help others.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4848/32179835308_16ec909903_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/R2C4UG)20181016_0205_flikr (https://flic.kr/p/R2C4UG) by Steven Ruttenberg (https://www.flickr.com/photos/157376714@N08/), on Flickr

esearing
26-Nov-2018, 06:52
If you are using hypo clear or photoflo I find you have to really clean the system after each use in hot water. If not I tend to get issues around the side tabs.

Other than that I get no issues but i use dilute developer with an initial 2 minute agitation then minimal agitation. My pour time is about 12 seconds using a 500ml kitchen measuring cup with tank held at angle. If the 450ml fill tab is getting in your way - file it off.
Leave some air for proper agitation, don't fill to top measure 450 or 475ml

I also only do 1 sheet (maybe 2) at a time.

Presoak 5mins for FP4+
developer
water stop
fixer
2-3 minute wash in tank: fill , shake, and dump.
remove to separate washer - paterson square tank so I can start on next single sheet.

Steven Ruttenberg
26-Nov-2018, 07:29
I use hypoclear, maybe I should wash it better. Maybe I need to agitate longer, I usually agitate for about 15-30 seconds then agitate every 30 seconds after. I am using 1:4 for Tmax and HC110B solution. The 2-bath pyro is 1:15 or 1:20 for each bath. I put in exactly 450ml. I will do some experimenting to see how it fills at angle vs straight up and down.

Two23
26-Nov-2018, 07:52
I've been thinking of buying one of these but haven't yet. It does sound plausible that there could be some residue left in the side rails that hold the film. That would explain why the problem wasn't happening before for one thing.


Kent in SD

esearing
26-Nov-2018, 08:08
Are you inverting the tank or just rocking side to side? With HC110 B (1:31) your development times are generally short so fill and dump time comes into play at the bottom of your film in the tank. I would also suggest more initial agitation then maybe less frequent interim agitations. Else more dilute and let it develop longer.

Steven Ruttenberg
26-Nov-2018, 08:24
I completely rotate the tank with long side facing me, then rotate 90 degrees and completely rotate the tank with short edge facing me for next agitation cycle. For initial agitation I was sort of sloshing it around to make sure I competely wet the film. I can dilute the Tmax to 1:7 or 1:9 I believe and 1:31 for HC-110.

If I mixed the HC to 1:62 could I just double the development time? This would certainly hit the film considerably less hard in the begining and upon dumping.

I have times for a 1:9 for the Tmax developer. It may be that the standard working solutions are too strong for use ih the SP tank.

Steven Ruttenberg
26-Nov-2018, 08:51
This interesting article on HC-110. Here is the link.

http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/

Ulophot
26-Nov-2018, 09:46
Steve, I have had no problems at all with the 445, but I use inversions, not rotation. That is, the tank does a complete "somersault" in approximately 2.5 seconds. I hope you're able to resolve your problems. I find the 445 a perfect tool for 1-4 sheets.

Steven Ruttenberg
26-Nov-2018, 10:02
Steve, I have had no problems at all with the 445, but I use inversions, not rotation. That is, the tank does a complete "somersault" in approximately 2.5 seconds. I hope you're able to resolve your problems. I find the 445 a perfect tool for 1-4 sheets.

That is what I do. A complete 360 of the tank, somersault as you put it. I think, I am using dilutions that are too strong (typical dilutions) It may be my particular style, does not lend itself to the procedure. I am also going to start washing the components in soap and water with an alcohol rinse after each use to make sure all remnants of developer, etc are removed. I will get this. I agree this little tank is perfect, but I am also going to look into the jobo professional as well for hand development. I am wanting to try the trays, but don't have a room to do in. I am considering taking over my closet a times. Just need a negative washer to hang negatives while rinsing.

esearing
26-Nov-2018, 10:40
If I mixed the HC to 1:62 could I just double the development time? .

HC110 is considered to be linear so in theory yes. in practice I preferred double minus 1 minute with Delta 100 and HP5 because they seem to extend the contrast more.
There is also 1:47 dilution so 1.5x your normal time. 1:44 would be close enough if you want 450ml of solution.

Steven Ruttenberg
26-Nov-2018, 10:45
HC110 is considered to be linear so in theory yes. in practice I preferred double minus 1 minute with Delta 100 and HP5 because they seem to extend the contrast more.
There is also 1:47 dilution so 1.5x your normal time. 1:44 would be close enough if you want 450ml of solution.

Thanks!

Bob Salomon
26-Nov-2018, 11:19
What are you doing to dislodge air bells?

Steven Ruttenberg
26-Nov-2018, 11:45
I tap the tank on the counter after I install the caps. Give it a good bump. I then tap it to counter just prior to each agitation cycle to be sure no bubbles got are present (although, this may not help)

Steven Ruttenberg
26-Nov-2018, 14:41
Got email from Timothy from Stearman. He thinks the swirls may be from doing complete inversions 360 degrees with short edge facing me. This could give developer, etc the chance to drain in and out of the baffles which could cause the issue. He says to only do the agitation and inversions with long edge facing you.

IanBarber
26-Nov-2018, 14:55
If the 450ml fill tab is getting in your way - file it off.
Leave some air for proper agitation, don't fill to top measure 450 or 475ml

How much developer are you mixing for the SP445

Steven Ruttenberg
26-Nov-2018, 14:56
I use between 450 and 475

Steven Ruttenberg
26-Nov-2018, 20:25
So, I filled the tank with water and observed water. Even though I had cleaned tank previously by rinsing thoroughly, I noticed an oily film on the surface. I washed al parts with soap and water, rinsed thoroughly and it was still there. I then thoroughly rinsed with 91% rubbing alcohol and the oily looking fim was reduced quire a bit. Could be issue, maybe not.

I then observed water as I tileted forward and back with shirt edge towards me and the water level and location matched the shapes of swirls I am seeing on negatives

Next development, I will use a very dilute developer like 1:9 of Tmax dev or lkke 1:62 HC-110. Same for 2-bath part B. I will also try minimal agitation as well.

Peter Collins
26-Nov-2018, 21:40
I use an SP-445 with HC110 developing HP5+. I use a 3-min water soak before developing. Usually using times of 7 - 20 min at various dilutions because I cannot control temp easily. I invert/agitate every 30 sec. On the "long axis" of the tank. I have had no problems such as those described by the OP.

Steven Ruttenberg
26-Nov-2018, 22:14
Thanks Peter. It sounds more and more like rotating on short axis is problem..

Ulophot
27-Nov-2018, 10:29
I'm a bit confused about short and long edges and axes, but to clarify my previous post, holding the tank in front of me so that the two caps are at left adn right, not in a line like a lens axis from behind the camera, I perform the somersault inversions.

The residues you note, Steve, sound troubling. Any idea what they came from?

Steven Ruttenberg
27-Nov-2018, 10:52
I'm a bit confused about short and long edges and axes, but to clarify my previous post, holding the tank in front of me so that the two caps are at left adn right, not in a line like a lens axis from behind the camera, I perform the somersault inversions.

The residues you note, Steve, sound troubling. Any idea what they came from?

long axis is the line running thru caps left to right as you describe, short axis is a line running between caps left to right when you have caps in line facing you. So That is what I will start doing.

I am not sure what the residue was/is from. It is a film on top of the water, kinda oily looking. It was same whether using distilled water or tap water. I am guessing the plastic absorbs some of the chemicals and that adding water release some. Most likely negligible, but then again, nothing in film developing is negligible. I did rinse with 91% rubbing alcohol and that seemed to reduce the film to almost nothing. It might be that after rinsing out, components should get a final rinse in rubbing alcohol.

IanBarber
27-Nov-2018, 12:49
This is how I agitate the tank


https://youtu.be/aTrtU0bhArQ?t=100

otto.f
28-Nov-2018, 23:11
Did you develop non-Kodak films too? Sorry to say but I had all kinds of spots on recent Tri-X in HC110 in the SP445, which I did not have with old Tri-X from 2003 and other brands like Delta and PANCRO400. I don’t know about Tmax developer but I do know that HC110 should be stirred unlikely well (to make stock solution 1+3 as well as working solution 1+7).

Steven Ruttenberg
29-Nov-2018, 00:28
I developed Tmax100 got spots. Got them too on color neg portra and extar and slide film. I max developer as wellas the HC-110. I mixed at 1:31 for working solution and 1:4 with Tmax developer.

Jim Noel
29-Nov-2018, 10:28
Photo-flo forms a catalyst which clings to the reels. The catalyst increases development along the edges of the film.
SOLUTION: Throw away the Photo-Flo and obtain some LFN. Next scrub the reels in ot soapy water prior to using again.

Steven Ruttenberg
29-Nov-2018, 10:58
What is LFN?

I don't use photo-flo when developing, but I do dip my holders with film in the photo-flo prior to removing the negatives. That could be the residue I am seeing on the top of the water when I filled the sp445 up without lid. I did finally wash tank with hot soapy water.

Interesting as photo-flo used for 2 bath pyrocat in solution A.

Development of roll film on reels with intermittent agitation

Prepare working solution A by mixing 15 parts water with 1 part of Pyrocat Stock Solution A. Add a few drops of Photo-Flo to working solution A. Prepare working solution B by mixing 15 parts of water with 1 part of Stock Solution B. Temperature of both solutions should be about 75ºF, but the exact temperature is not critical. Total time of development should be about five minutes in both Solution A and Solution B. Use enough working solution A and B to cover the film on the reels.

1. Pre-soak the film for three minutes in water at 75º F. Drain thoroughly.
2. Put the film on reels and place into the tank.
3. Pour Solution A into the tank. Agitate continuously for about one minute, then agitate for ten seconds once every minute thereafter.
4. Pour out Solution A and drain for fifteen seconds.
5. Pour in solution B. Agitate roll film continuously for one minute, then for five seconds every thirty seconds thereafter for the duration of the total time of three minutes.
6. Follow normal procedures for stop bath, fix, and wash.

io6060
8-Dec-2018, 18:03
What is LFN? ...

Edwal LFN.

Steven Ruttenberg
10-Dec-2018, 10:57
Thanks. I have the anti-static cleaner, it is okay.