Calumet 150mm... Can't focus anything further than 5ish ft?

[myrtlesnow]

Hello all,

I have recently come to own a Cambo SC II and am using a Calumet 150mm f/5.6 Caltar-S II lens. I just mounted the lens to the lens board and have started playing around.

When focusing, I can only get things within 5ish feet of the lens to come into focus. Nothing farther is in focus, even with the bellows as collapsed as possible.

I was anticipating many other issues when buying this camera, but not this problem. Any ideas on what the issue could be?

With thanks,
Jake

[Oslolens]

One or two of the standards may be turned the wrong way. Remove the bellows, turn either of them and see what happens. I had a 150 f9, but I don't think I used a recessed lens board.

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[Oslolens]

...on my Cambo SC

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[Oslolens]

Searched for pictures, and found on KEH where the tripod mount was behind the film standard. That is the solution. https://www.keh.com/shop/cambo-4x5-sc-view-camera-body-679639.html

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[Vaughn]

From the photo linked above, it looks like if one wanted to keep the standards on opposite sides of the tripod mount for balance, one could unhook the bellows to the back standard (and remove back), rotate the back standard 180 degrees, and reconnect the bellows.

The Calumets I had for student use were similar, but I do not remember a problem...though we used 180mm lenses, now that I think of it.

[myrtlesnow]

Thank you so much, Oslolens! So just to confirm, you're suggesting to move the tripod mount behind the film standard? Rather than between the front and rear standards?

[Oslolens]

Yes, that is correct. I got a 210mm Apo-Symmar later, as suggested above, a longer lens will work without this position. You could also put the tripod mount in front, making more room for your head. Be careful so the tripod do not tip over ;)

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[Leigh]

myrtlesnow,

The problem you have is that the lens cannot get close enough to the film.

When the camera is focused at infinity, the lensboard-to-film distance is at a minimum.
That distance is given on the lens datasheet as "flange focal distance".

As you focus on closer subjects, the lens moves away from the film.
Your existing configuration does not allow the lens to get close enough to the film.

- Leigh

[wooserco]

Not the same camera, but the same lens. On my calumet CC400, the tripod mount is between the front and back standards.

[Bob Salomon]

Are the controls for the front and rear on the same side of the camera or opposite sides? If opposite sides take off the front standard and reverse it so the controls are on the same side.
If they are on the same side then you need a recessed board or move the tripod moving block as suggested.

[Dan Fromm]

Jake, this forum has resources. One is a list of useful links that includes a link to Cambo's directions for setting up an SC (that includes your SC 2). See http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?138978-Where-to-look-for-information-on-LF-(mainly)-lenses, the link you want is under Cambo, which is under older modern view cameras.

I'm sorry that none of the other responses so far told you to RTFM.

An SC set up properly should focus a 150 mm lens well through infinity.

[mdarnton]

I think I can put a 90mm lens on my Cambo with the tripod block between. I suspect a rotated front standard is the problem.

Viewed from the side both standards should be identical, with the posts towards the front and the side pivot hinges toward the back.

[Oslolens]

Another problem with the Cambo SC /SC II is the bellows is not soft enough or wrong type to use much shift with a 150mm. It is good enough for use in the studio at macro distance +shift, but not for landscape or architecture. If you are not going to use lenses longer than 210 and no macro, a (long) bag bellows will do wonder. Take a look at the Arca-swiss Misura bellows. That's the ideal. Cheapest way to get a bag bellows is to buy from eBay, and replace the frames...

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[Dan Fromm]

Another problem with the Cambo SC /SC II is the bellows is not soft enough or wrong type to use much shift with a 150mm. It is good enough for use in the studio at macro distance +shift, but not for landscape or architecture.

Interesting if true. Why do you believe this? I ask because my SC 2 doesn't agree with you. With a 21 pleat standard bellows mounted it gets full rise/fall and full shift with a 150 mm lens focused at infinity. There are several standard bellows for the SC 2, I believe the 21 pleater is one of the longer ones.

Cheapest way to get a bag bellows is to buy from eBay, and replace the frames...
Why do you believe this? What's the point of destroying the OP's only bellows when he can buy a perfectly fine genuine Cambo bag bellows, used of course, from a seller on eBay? OP, if you decide you must have a Cambo bag bellows, look for a modern one made with relatively thick artificial leather, not an old one made of thin leather. The old ones can sag into the light path, the new ones don't.

[Oslolens]

Good to read the bellows can be good. Mine where not- I almost destroyed it trying to take pictures of the mountains from bottom of a valley. Maybe the front mounting of my apo-something made the flange focal length a bit short?? ;)
Presuming your bellows is not good, the frames can be used for a homemade bag bellows, else, keep it as Dan says. I had my Kardan 8x10" bag bellows made so it could be used with a 210mm with 30mm rise before starting to stretch. Never used, so when a local photographer asked to buy one, I was willing to part with it.

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[Dan Fromm]

Maybe the front mounting of my apo-something made the flange focal length a bit short?? ;)

Absolutely. Front mounting adds extension, makes the front-of-board-to-film plane distance shorter than the barrel lens' nominal flange-focal distance. The shutter's thickness plus the adapter's length. I use a number of lenses hung in front of shutters, but front mounting can be problematic with shorter lenses. Highly compressed bellows, as you've found, and the risk of mechanical vignetting.