Need Help - Getting Developer Streaks on Silver Gelatin Prints?

[LFLarry]

Hi, I started making some bigger 20x24 and 30x40 silver gelatin prints and I started getting some streaking and odd looking stains that I have not seen when I make smaller prints. I am using Dektol as my developer. I mix up fresh developer for every printing session, so it doesn't appear to be anything like old developer or anything like that. Looks to be a technique issue on my part.

I must not be doing something right, so your input is appreciated.

Here is what I have tried so far with mixed results.

1 - Lay down the print in the dry tray and pour the developer over it and then rock the tray to keep the developer moving around.

2 - Pool the developer on one end of the tray and let it wash back over the print after I lay the exposed print in the tray. That is pretty difficult with 30x40 prints.

3 - I tried a small thick nap paint roller too.

Any advice on how to get consistently good results and avoid these odd staining issues with these bigger prints?

Thanks in advance,

Larry

[Jim Jones]

I'm going to suggest something I've never tried with paper: a water bath immediately before developing. With film a water bath was sometimes absolutely necessary when using fast-working developer and short developing times in trays. An example was Tech Pan developed in Solarol for solarized negatives. Another example was sheet film developed in Dektol for high contrast.

[John Olsen]

Instead of a tray, I've used a window planter filled with 3 gals of Dektol 1:2. I roll the paper up loosely and dunk it all at one time, rolling it around in the solution. It's a mess and fills the room with fumes - ugh - but it seems to work.

Jim's idea of a prewet sounds interesting.

[Gary Beasley]

When I do prints I have enough developer to float the print, and push it in face down quickly and rock it a good thirty seconds before flipping it over. I learned this processing 18x25 lithographic film from the process camera at the newspaper I worked at. Any hesitation in completely covering the film or paper in an even manner will do bad things to the image

[LFLarry]

Hi Jim, I just tried your suggestion and I found something very interesting... I pre-soaked the exposed print for 3 minutes and then moved it into the Dektol developer. It basically was VERY slow to develop (I stopped after 12 minutes) and then I went ahead and fixed it to look at it. It wasn't fully developed.

I then developed a new print right behind that without pre-soaking it and it developed as expected in about 2 minutes which validates there was nothing wrong with my developer.

I have to assume the paper gets saturated with the water and the emulsion becomes less sensitive to the developer. I would have never guessed that, but that appears to be what happens... This is a bummer, but I learned something new today!





I'm going to suggest something I've never tried with paper: a water bath immediately before developing. With film a water bath was sometimes absolutely necessary when using fast-working developer and short developing times in trays. An example was Tech Pan developed in Solarol for solarized negatives. Another example was sheet film developed in Dektol for high contrast.

[LFLarry]

Good info Gary. I had thought about this, but wasn't sure how practical it may be with the bigger 30x40 prints. I am going to print more this coming week, so I will give that a try and see how it works on a practical level. It does sound like it could be a really good way to get developer on the entire print very quickly and evenly. I will loop back later in the week and let you know how that works out.



When I do prints I have enough developer to float the print, and push it in face down quickly and rock it a good thirty seconds before flipping it over. I learned this processing 18x25 lithographic film from the process camera at the newspaper I worked at. Any hesitation in completely covering the film or paper in an even manner will do bad things to the image

[LFLarry]

Good idea John. I need to do some research to figure out how to properly do trough development. I have been thinking about this, just no clue how to really do it correctly. But, I like the idea and this could be a space saver in the darkroom over having the huge trays.



Instead of a tray, I've used a window planter filled with 3 gals of Dektol 1:2. I roll the paper up loosely and dunk it all at one time, rolling it around in the solution. It's a mess and fills the room with fumes - ugh - but it seems to work.

Jim's idea of a prewet sounds interesting.

[Vaughn]

Brush develop with a large hake brush or something similar?

[Willie]

Maybe more dilute developer and longer time for full development? Any temperature changes between prints - as in some have more of a problem than others?

Could part of the problem be with dumping the developer and getting the stop bath on the emulsion quickly and evenly?