Tripod head platform covering

[j.e.simmons]

i have an old Gitzo tripod head that I use with my 8x10. The material that once covered the platform, I assume it was cork, is no longer there. The result is the camera usually moves around on the head - I can't get the screw tight enough to hold it reliably.
'
What should I use to replace the old surface? i could use cork, but I'm wondering if there are any modern materials that will work better.
Thanks,
John

[Bob Salomon]

i have an old Gitzo tripod head that I use with my 8x10. The material that once covered the platform, I assume it was cork, is no longer there. The result is the camera usually moves around on the head - I can't get the screw tight enough to hold it reliably.
'
What should I use to replace the old surface? i could use cork, but I'm wondering if there are any modern materials that will work better.
Thanks,
John
Rubber, especially ribbed rubber.

[LabRat]

I use thin hardwood plywood, as it will very slightly compress, but will slip enough if camera bolt is too tight and you can give the camera a slight turn...

If you want no rotation possible, go to a plumbing supply place and buy flat rubber sheet and cut out a piece that covers the camera contact area ( with a hole for the hold down screw)...

Steve K

[Luis-F-S]

I know Ries sells leather for their tripod heads, I'm sure they could custom cut it for you if the material is to your liking. L

[MrFujicaman]

okay..how thick was the cork? If you don't want to use cork again, perhaps you could cut up an old mouse pad if the thickness is right. If you decide to use cork again, most auto parts stores have rolls of it for making gaskets.

[LabRat]

Oh, and to secure your different materials in place, put some contact cement on both surfaces, let them sit for a few minutes, put them together, and clamp them together by using a block with a threaded hole tightened down by the tripod screw, or maybe a camera bracket or something and let sit for a half hour (I'd suggest a camera or something, but I'd be concerned if any goo seeped out to your camera, but you could tape the bottom of a junky camera as a clamp block)...

I think I used a piece of formica once when I wanted something that could be tight with the possibility of a little slip (like when setting up, barely a little loose so I could still rotate, then lock down)...

Steve K

[John Layton]

Rubberized cork gasket material was easy to find at most auto parts suppliers back in the day...although not so much recently. Home Depot does carry a rubber gasket material in 6 x 6 inch squares (look in their plumbing department), which I have used successfully in applications similar to yours. In either case...you can cut these to shape and use a contact cement (Pliobond fi you can find it is best).

[Willie]

Layer some Gaffer's Tape. Works well.

[Greg]

I use a piece of leather with the shiny side down. Contact cement works great. With the rough side facing up, the bottoms of my cameras have never been scratched or marked up in any way. Tried cork first, but it just didn't hold up.

[j.e.simmons]

Thanks. Lots of good ideas.

[Tin Can]

You want waterproof I suppose.

Cork/rubber gasket material is tough and resists most liquids. https://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/gasket-material/fel-pro-10-x-26-x-1-8-in-cork-and-rubber-gasket-material-sheet/67680_0_0 aslo 1/16" which may be better. https://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/gasket-material/fel-pro-10-x-26-x-1-16-in-cork-and-rubber-gasket-material-sheet/67679_0_0

Glue it down.

For wood studio cameras I have used adhesive backed felt. https://www.mcmaster.com/#felt/=1dfrild

[Drew Wiley]

I don't like anything the least bit spongy. Hard thin cork isn't bad; but I tend to use coarsely sanded ABS - coarse texture for non-slip.

[John Layton]

That rubberized cork material that Randy has listed above is also great to use for DIY LF cameras - for anything in rotational/lockable contact (swings, tilts, etc.) this material offers, IMHO, a perfect ratio of "slip to grip," allowing movements to be finely set and then tweaked while lightly tightened...with movement in question remaining stationary in "hands off" mode, yet still moveable for fine tweaks - with a final lockdown to get things solid. Great stuff! Not "spongy" at all, very durable, and easily applied with contact cement.

[Tin Can]

The felt is also very tough.

Not fond of white, but it is tough.

I reject ABS plastic in these applications. Too slippery even scuffed.

[Peter Collins]

I used bicycle inner tube for this problem a few years back. (Sold the tripod later, so no info on longevity.