Identifying a Darkroom Error?

[FelixBabakuntos]

I am shooting through my first box of film as I evaluate equipment and learn to develop at home. The first 2 shots (day interiors) were developed by a friend in a Patterson tank - no problems. The next six (day exteriors) I did by myself, also in a Patterson tank; Initial loading into holders and then into tank was done in a converted bathroom. Scans of all the negatives I developed have a blue cast which worsens in the center, but it doesn't appear to have a drastic effect on the negative's density as in shots I have with leaky film holders. Am I seeing the results of a light leak from when I was loading into my tank, some sort of mistake in the dev process (timing, temperature), a bellows leak that wasn't evident inside, or something else? I developed two at a time, folded inward along the long side and secured with rubber bands. I have two exposures left in the box that I can use for testing.

https://i.imgur.com/0Je1rYj.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NE2xyqi.jpg

[HT Finley]

Invalid attachment, it says.

[FelixBabakuntos]

Invalid attachment, it says.
Fixed with embed.

[Gary Beasley]

What film and process, brand of kits?

[FelixBabakuntos]

What film and process, brand of kits?

Portra 400 developed with Jobo C-41 press kit, dish soap used in lieu of stabilizer at advice of person who did first development. Instructions advise 3:30 development and 6:30 blix @ 102 degrees Fahrenheit.

[Jim Andrada]

I thought C41 was always supposed to be developed at 100 degrees F. If temp is off I'd expect color shifts.

[Gary Beasley]

Are these scans of the negative or wet prints? And why would anyone replace the stabilizer with dish soap if you have it available? Its there as a preservative, not just a wetting agent like the dish soap is.
You would want to check the accuracy of the thermometer against a known standard if you can, still C-41 can stand some inaccuracy.

[Corran]

Blix your negatives again. If it's a fresh kit I am surprised it would have Blix issues, unless you mixed it wrong, or perhaps your temps drifted/dropped once you got to the Blixing. Regardless, put it back in (it won't hurt anything, unless you leave it in for days). Report back if that fixes it, but I am almost 100% sure that's your issue. It's come up many times wrt home developing. Generally, Blix longer than suggested and add time every time you use the kit as it oxidizes.

[Mark Sampson]

Hmm. I recall that the correct development time for C-41 was 3'15" @ 100.5F. That was in several different processing machines. But your process regimen is a bit different. I see no light leaks... your troubles might be from development, or perhaps improper or inadequate bleach/fix stages. Using dish soap can't be good although I ]have no ideas what problems that might cause. Within Kodak (where I ran a C-41 line) we went by the book, which of course was written by our colleagues. Try shooting an X-rite color checker (or similar) under known conditions, like sunlight. That may help determine what's going on, and may help to suggest a fix.

[Jim Andrada]

Otherwise known as 38 C no doubt! That's where I always set the Jobo and what I checked with the Kodak process thermometer I set next to the drum. Do you remember the official tolerance for C-41?

Anyhow, I think the time/temperature could be causing a color shift.

By the way - found something that gave 37.8 C +/- .5 C for 3:15

[ruilourosa]

37.8 and 3:15 that´s what the paper say´s in the tetenal kit....

well, agitation??? temperature maitenance???

jobo probably is giving you times for continuous agitation... in a rotary processor...

the atl 1000 that i use came with an already programed time and temp for c41 and it was 3:15 @ 37.8...

i would separate the bleach and the fixer... they last longer that way (i´ve been using the same ten liters of bleach for 3 years now, just correcting ph and agitating each development) but then... in a kit it´s the same...

[FelixBabakuntos]

Looking at the instructions for the Jobo kit and it advises 39C for 3:30 using hand tank, agitating 4 cycles every 30 seconds after the first 10 - Their rotary instructions however are 3:15 @ 38C. Hand tank is also supposed to be done in tempered water bath which I failed to do, so I'm guessing my blix cooled too quickly, I am going to try and reblix tonight. Their own troubleshooting also suggests that magenta negatives are a sign of overagitation or developer being to warm, next batch will be done at lower time & temp in a tempered bath but it's interesting that they suggest developing hotter and longer, maybe to account for cooling?