How can I connect flash sync to a Packard shutter?

[williaty]

So I have a Packard shutter with the flash contacts in it that I'd like to connect to my modern strobes. My initial thought was to mount a PC sync port on the outside of the lensboard but I can't find any PC sync ports! Do such spare parts exist? Realistically, I'm only going with PC sync due to some lingering tradition as the RF triggers for my strobes mount into a hot shoe so I'd just end up using a PC-to-hotshoe adapter (which is what I do with all the rest of my LF lenses). Is there a hot shoe I could mount to the lensboard and run wires to from the shutter contacts?

Thanks as usual.

[cowanw]

I cut a PC extension cord in half and used the female end to wire to the contacts. Then I use a PC male to whatever cord (in my case a PC to radio sync). You will have to route the wire through the lens board to get to the Packard, either through a plain drilled hole or a fancy metal connector like one would use for the rubber hose of a bulb release. Plus a bit of opaque caulking.

[Tin Can]

Depends on space.

I use P C Buff RF transmitters. They have a Micro female socket. I Velcro the Buff inside the bellows on the back of an internal Packard. No external anything. Tape over the little LED!

I also put it on the outside. Get cameras with big lensboards and it becomes simple.

[malexand]

I found PC sync ports on the auction site in the camera parts section - most had been pulled out of old 35mm.
I used them to add flash sych to a betax 5 and an ilex I picked up recently. Since you already have the guts in place, it would be even easier.

[Pere Casals]

One thing you may find is that the internal contacts inside the shutter may not trigger the flash because a thin oxid layer, or it only triggers it sometimes.

It happened to me with compur shutters, solution I found is a simple DIY booster circuit with higher voltage that the one in modern flashes.

[malexand]

One thing you may find is that the internal contacts inside the shutter may not trigger the flash because a thin oxid layer, or it only triggers it sometimes.

It happened to me with compur shutters, solution I found is a simple DIY booster circuit with higher voltage that the one in modern flashes.

If you find oxidized contacts (and can get to them), a couple of light strokes with very fine sandpaper should do the trick. Back in the day we would clean oxidized camera or flash battery contacts with a pencil eraser with pretty good success too.

[Tin Can]

Packards only.

Here is what I do, Linhof Kardan Color 9" lens board. I have 3 set up like this. The front I add Horseman lensboard mounts on some and one I just bolted 8" Deardorff boards for ease of use.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/892/26470394037_aca0ea7e99_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gk6FW6)1-IMG_1310 (https://flic.kr/p/Gk6FW6) by moe.randy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/811/26470393907_8665221e80_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gk6FTR)3-IMG_1317 (https://flic.kr/p/Gk6FTR) by moe.randy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/865/41342258871_fd19ef3602_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25ZgTdK)2-IMG_1316 (https://flic.kr/p/25ZgTdK) by moe.randy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1466/26109802361_7cb443f0b7_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/FMeyAe)Linhof Kodak 405 (1) (https://flic.kr/p/FMeyAe) by moe.randy (https://www.flickr.com/photos/tincancollege/), on Flickr

[Pere Casals]

If you find oxidized contacts (and can get to them), a couple of light strokes with very fine sandpaper should do the trick. Back in the day we would clean oxidized camera or flash battery contacts with a pencil eraser with pretty good success too.

Yes, but I've 4 compurs and I had to open all of them, and with time it would fail again.

Depending on metal you need a certain voltage to establish a reliable switching contact, for gold is very low...

Here there is a list of trigger voltages http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

Best way is having the right voltage for the shutter, my DIY "active cable" has a 24v (2x 12V batteries) current passes by a R5K, then by a CNY74 optocoupler, to the sync contacts and to the the batteries again. In the other side of the Optocoupler I plug the external flash. Never a failure again.

[Pere Casals]

...

Nice DIY !!

This can even make i-TTL / E-TTL !!!

You trigger a DSLR that would trigger the flashes, working in ratio mode, just placing ISO film in the dslr, and the bellows compensation in the dslr exposure compensation, of course the dslr needs the same aperture than the LF lens, and it has to see the same scene from a similar angle.

A Kodak-Linhof i-TTL camera ! this sounds great :)

[Tin Can]

Been there done that. I use Nikon D750 and F5 with 4 SB800 or 4 Einsteins.

I usually use my L-758D DigitalMaster.

Too much complication can confuse this guy.


Nice DIY !!

This can even make i-TTL / E-TTL !!!

You trigger a DSLR that would trigger the flashes, working in ratio mode, just placing ISO film in the dslr, and the bellows compensation in the dslr exposure compensation, of course the dslr needs the same aperture than the LF lens, and it has to see the same scene from a similar angle.

A Kodak-Linhof i-TTL camera ! this sounds great :)

[mdarnton]

Since my studio strobes all use 3mm mono plugs, I stocked up on various long and short cords of that type and cut the end off a short one and wired it to the shutter, leaving the male end hanging out a couple of inches in front through a tiny hole cut in the board. I can use a 1/8>3/32 adapter to plug it into my wireless transmitter, or use a M>F extension cord for direct wiring.

[Tin Can]

Since my studio strobes all use 3mm mono plugs, I stocked up on various long and short cords of that type and cut the end off a short one and wired it to the shutter, leaving the male end hanging out a couple of inches in front through a tiny hole cut in the board. I can use a 1/8>3/32 adapter to plug it into my wireless transmitter, or use a M>F extension cord for direct wiring.

I bet you did! :) I have done that also. I have 2 of those Buff transmitters and I might run around looking for one for a long time until i remember to look inside the cameras.

Same problem with male QR left on a camera. Where is it!

I have had too much trouble with OE Packard switches, which vary in design over the years.

That tiny Micro switch I use is $1 each by the dozen. https://www.pololu.com/

[Pere Casals]

Been there done that. I use Nikon D750 and F5 with 4 SB800

the SB-800 is a good choice, (like the SB-600) it works with full automation with both, the F5 and the i-TTL new generation cameras.

This is a perfectly automated LF studio flash system, I guess you model, with the sekonic you adjust flash ratio to have same key to fill balance, et voila, it works automatic, pre-flashes included. And also you have a digital shot to know if subject had eyes open and what face expression...

Who said LF was complicated ?

single thing... if you show the packard and you say it works i-TTL... :)

[williaty]

I think Randy showed me my solution. I'd never noticed that my Buff triggers have little inputs on the side. I've got an older Buff TX that I'll just fasten into the back of the lensboard like he did. I trigger my Buff stuff (obviously) as well as my old Norman gear via Buff triggers already so this is a quick solution to 99% of the use of this particular lens.