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View Full Version : E6 processing with Tetenal on Jobo CPA2 and Expert Drum



pkr1979
17-Mar-2018, 14:04
Hi all!

A few days ago i devloped myself for the first time 2 sheets (8x10) of Provia 100F. The first sheet was exposed at 100 iso and the other at 400. The first one was a disaster, and I tought I would never be able to do this... however, the second (exposed at 400) wasnt that bad... nonetheless... no one does this professionally in Norway anymore so this is something I just have to figure out.

I did as follows:
(First, I used 1 liter for each solution - too much? And, unless otherwise noted I followed times from Tetenal... I started timing as soon all chemistry was out of the container bottle.)
1. Preheated the drum with the sheet film (100 iso) in it (for probably more than an hour).
2. Put in the first developer (I tought I was supposed to do this quick, but did it to fast so a bit of spilling occured - also I pushed the wrong button on my timer so timimg was inaccurate.
3. Emptied the first developer from the drum back into the bottle.
4. Let it drip for 2 minutes to empty the drum.
5. Washing for 5 minutes instead of 2:30 (I was supposed to either poor water into it continuously, change it every 30 seconds, or wash extra... I washed extra).
6. After washing I let it drip for 2 minutes.
7. Add colordeveloper.
8. Empty it back in the bottle and wait for two minutes.
9. Then wash for 5 minutes, letting it empty for 2.
10. Then bleach fix, emptied back in the bottle, letting it empty for 2 minutes.
11. Now washing for 8 minutes, and emptying for 2.
12. I also did the stabilizing inside the drum, putting the stabilizer back in the bottle.
13. Extreme disappointment looking at a very thin positive appearing too be overexposed/overdeveloped (unclear... sort off).

I then repeated this process with the second sheet exposed at 400 iso, using the same chemistry. The only difference is that I added 15 extra seconds for the first developer since it was a reuse, and an extra 5:30 for the first developer since it was a push. (Also, the temperature might have been a bit too cold on the first sheet, but I cant be sure.)

Luckily this was better and seems a lot better exposed. The motive was the same with the same light and was exposed according to their iso value... so the one positive shouldnt appear to be much more over/under exposed compared to the other... anyway the pushed positive has too much cyan in it.

Does it sound like I am doing this the way I am supposed too?

Othe concerns I have is:
Temperature - I find it hard and timeconsuming to get it accurate. How do you guys do this on your CPA2s?
Air - I kept the window shut to have a stable room temperature, but how healthy is this?
I am considering a protronic heater so I am able to have more heated water available for wash - anyone with any experience with something like that?

I think thats it for now :-) Any help or tip is very appreciated :-)

Cheers
Peter

nbagno
18-Mar-2018, 07:47
A. Which expert drum are you using? Find the instructions for the drum that you have. Example, with my expert drum full of 6 sheets of 4x5 I use 250ml of solution. I also follow the steps in the Tetenal instructions...
1. You only need to pre-heat the drum for 5 minutes. If you followed the Tetenal instructions that's what it says.
2. Just let it pour normally without spilling. Also, start your time when the solution hits the film which is at the beginning of the pour, not at the end
4. No, the solution is still acting on the film... I start to empty the drum about 12 seconds before the end of the process step and try to get the wash into the drum when the step reaches zero.
5. I like to change the rinse every 30 seconds, I like a fresh rinse.
6. You don't need to let it drip, just start the next step.
8. Again, don't wait. You want to have the developer off of the film by the time that step finishes.
10. Don't need to let it empty for two minutes.
12. Don't stabilize inside the drum, find a proper container and do it there.

Regarding temperature, it needs to be accurate. It can take 1.5 to 2 hours before the water bath comes up to the proper temp. With the CPA2 you will need to figure out what temp settings gives you the temp you want.

pkr1979
18-Mar-2018, 10:20
Thanks nbagno,

Im using the the 3005, and the manual says it should be a minimum of 270ml. I did read though that this apparently is too little... and that some use 850 as their minimum. But if you are successful following the instruction I assume I should be as well :-)

Another thing though... at what speed do you set the motor too?

I’ll follow your suggestion the next time I do this... do you reuse your chemistry?

Cheers
Peter

nbagno
18-Mar-2018, 10:53
So the 3005 drum with 8x10 says:

1-2 sheets = 270ml
3 sheets = 378ml
4 sheets = 504ml
5 sheets = 630ml
I would add just a bit more. I have a 3006 drum so it says use 210ml I use 250. Set the speed at 4.

Of course you need to see how this works for you. With the CPA2 you need to figure out at which dial setting gets you to the temp you need. With my CPP2 in the winter I need to set the temp a little higher but I check it by putting a kodak type 72 process thermometer in the developer bottle.


Thanks nbagno,

Im using the the 3005, and the manual says it should be a minimum of 270ml. I did read though that this apparently is too little... and that some use 850 as their minimum. But if you are successful following the instruction I assume I should be as well :-)

Another thing though... at what speed do you set the motor too?

Iíll follow your suggestion the next time I do this... do you reuse your chemistry?

Cheers
Peter

pkr1979
19-Mar-2018, 00:51
Thanks again nbagno - I appreciate this.
Cheers