8x10 film with a Jobo CPE-2 ??

[Calamity Jane]

I know that the recommended setup for 8x10 film is a CPA/CPP-2 with an Expert Drum but I was wondering if a body couldn't do E-6 with a CPE-2 by using plasstic screen or some other form of "spacer" to allow chemical to reach both sides of the film?

I know the CPA/CPP have a circulation pump and certain other features but I suspect a CPE-2 with lift would do as good a job and they're a lot easier to find at a reasonable price.

Anybody doing 8x10 E-6 with a CPE? Are there any other problems or things to watch out for?

Thanks!

[John Kasaian]

Calamity,

I use a Unicolor set up for my 8x10s, the whole processor(drum & base) probably cost less than a Jobo drum(I think around 25-35 US dollars on ebay) and works great.

[mark blackman]

I've used a Jobo 2830 print drum (holds two 10 x 8) to process both B&W and E6 on a Jobo processor with excellent results. Occasionally some of the anti-halation layer remains on the B&W film, but it easily washes off. I Still use it sometimes if I don't have a full load for the 3005 expert drum.

[Calamity Jane]

Thanks Mark, I suspected as much.

John: I have a Unicolor drum for 8x10 but for E-6 I'd really prefer something with a tempering system.

8x10? Why the heck did I buy an 8x10? I didn't need an 8x10! Now that I have got an 8x10 and done some 8x10 POP prints I'm afraid that I'm hooked! I just HAVE to try some 8x10 trannies. . . .

[Bruce Wehman]

A screen backing is a good idea in any drum that has problems with circulation. The one that I use is a stitching project grid that is sold in stores like Hobby Lobby. One version is shown here: http://www.wehmancamera.com/Tube.htm

[tor kviljo]

I have done 8x10 E6's in the CPE size (=ATL-1000 - which I used) print drum. Unlike the othervice identical film-drum, the print drum have two types of ribs inside the tank: many smaller/narrower ribs all around to permit chemicals on both sides of the paper, and a few larger ribs (which can also be fitted with detachable paper-holders to avoid the paper moving from its place) to keep paper in place. Using it with the ATL - it worked excellent with Fujichrome 8x10 film, but not with Ektachrome: heavy magenta/violet fog. I posted a question on the trouble with ektachrome on this forum (or possibly photo.net - LF) and were told that 8x10 ekta had a anti-halo layer which demanded more chemical flow than the paper-tank permitted. Luckily - at this time Freestyle were stuffed with cold-stored cheap Fujichrome LF -material, so I stocked up on fuji & avoided ekta-trouble that way. Fuji material were dev. as perfect as in the ATL-3000 & expert tank that I have now, but process slow because of the limited capasity of the sheet-film drum.

I have had both CPE2+, CPA & ATL 1000 & 3000: once You have used to a nice working ATL, you would probably not look to a C machine again.... Usually, the ATL's is priced (second hand) for much more value for money. I have seen ATL 3000's going for about the same as the CPP/CPA machines, but originally being 10x more expensive & built for the load of a small lab, large studio - not for hobby use as the C machines (& espesially the CPE's) are. There is no C machine where the Lift (mandatory for easy handeling of any tank-type) is able to handle the expert-drums: handle breaks easily & needs a helping hand for any move - flimsy piece of plastic. The ATL's 2xxx & 3000 handle these big tanks with no hassle.

[Calamity Jane]

DAMN! I've got to QUIT hanging out here! You guys are too EXPENSIVE! I was quite happy doing some 4x5s with my homemade camera and a CombiPlan. Now I have a whole stable of cameras in 4x5, 5x7, and 8x10 and just wrapping up a deal for a CPA-2 (used but recent vintage) with a 3005 expert drum for 8x10.

Don't know why I keep letting you guys talk me into things . . . and NO, I could NOT afford the ATL model!

Now, can I fit my4x5s in a 3005 drum and fish them out again or do I HAVE to have a 3010 tank for 4x5?

Oh well, you can't take it with you . . . . ;-)

[Donald Hutton]

For E6, I actually prefer using a 2500 series drum with the 2509n reels - I find that chromes processed in the 3010 drum do not lie flat once they are dried (there's always some curl left from the tubes in the drum) - the effect of much warmer solutions may be responsible for this (I have never had any problems with b&w negs in the 3010 - just E6). Needless to say, I have yet to have a chrome out of a 2509 reel which had been anything other than perfect.

[tor kviljo]

Jeeeeezez! sorry to accelerate your spedings on LF - but the ATL's are so comfortable to use! However, I second Don's info about the 2509n & developing 4x5 in small (25xx) series tanks. I use the small ATL 1000 at home, have the big atl 3000 (for 5x7, 8x10 & prints) at work. The 1000 (& your CPA) can run up to 18 4"x5" at a time (3x 2509n reels) - more than any expert drum. I have only good experiences with the 2509n, and any signs of dev. imperfections (non-uniform density in sky & uniform lit areas of the images) I have heared about is usually fix'ed by using only the outer & inner compartment on the 2509 reel (= greater film to film distance/better chemical flow), reducing reel capasity from 6 to 4 sheets/reel. This were most important in pre "n" reels however. The sheet-film lock in the "n" (= new) reels is doing a good job disperse chemistry uniformly over sheets - making it less inportant to run with reduced capasity pr. reel. I do allways 6x 4"x5" in my reels exept when dev. flimsy thin base (cut from aerial film) film. Using the smallest of the 28xx series print tank - the one called "test-tank" you have paper holders & ribs equivalent to the one in the large (8x10 print) tank. This tank have ribs spaced to secure 2 x 4"x5" (paper). Using this You are able to do 2x 4"x5" a time with minimum (60ml or so) chemistry. Let me see - were there still any drums not mentioned yet that You simply MUST have....