What stain did Deardorff use in the 50s-60s?

[BrianShaw]

Spinning off from the “What finish did Deardorff use in the 50s-60s?” thread...

[bloodhoundbob]

Spinning off from the “What finish did Deardorff use in the 50s-60s?” thread...

Thanks, Brian. I am going to quote directly from Barry's text from yesterday: "The old company used a stain from a company called Star Chemical which was eventually bought out by Mohawk. They own the formula but won't make it in less than 100 gallon quantities. So we went to one Mohawk still sold called Heritage Cherry. Now it's discontinued too. Of current stains available the closest match is available lots of places. It's Miniwax brand wiping or penetrating stain, the color is Red Oak. You can buy it in pints. It works well."

I hope the above answers some questions.

Bob

[Keith Pitman]

I posted this elsewhere, but I-used this Varathane product on a part I made for a Deardorff a few months ago. It’s a perfect match on new wood to the existing finish and seemed to work as a “scratch cover” on previously finished wood.

[Jim Graves]

What type of wood were you using?

[Drew Wiley]

Although you're probably all sick of me chiming in, there is a very real difference between what might constitute a reasonable match, cosmetically, from what will hold up well for outdoor shooters.

[BrianShaw]

I don’t know about anyone else but I never get sick of your wisdom Drew. Good point but I’m not too sure what conclusion to draw from it.

[Jim Graves]

Always interesting to read a Drew post ... but this thread was about the stain ... what finish would you recommend once the stain choice was made?

[Drew Wiley]

A lot depends on the cumulative amt of weather and esp UV likely to be encountered. These interior stains don't penetrate hardwoods well unless they contain dyes, which both fade and do little to protect the underlying wood fiber from UV effects. Some woods are obviously more stable than others, and for this reason were chosen to begin with. But in principle, the "stain" itself would have protective properties. I use something with "nano" transoxide pigments rather than a dyes or coarse pigments. The color is actually more even and far more stable. The topcoat is mated using similar technology, but thicker and brushable. The key is to find something which is smooth and will take handling, but is not brittle like a polyurethane finish. These kinds of products have actually been around in Europe and marine use for about 90 yrs. Otherwise, there is also a lineage of oil finishes which do not build up to a hard shell, but are easier to acquire and apply, but need attention from time to time. Classic high-quality oil varnishes like were used from around 1920 to 1970 are nearly nonexistent today. The problem with most popular home center familiar brands of products is that they've been adulterated from what they once were for the sake of price point, due to buyout, etc

[BrianShaw]

Ah, now I understand. I missed the fact that it was an interior stain. I suppose for a strictly studio camera that would be fine. But for sustained out-of-doors exposure I, too, might be a bit concerned.

[Drew Wiley]

Yeah, studio conditions are a different topic. Ironically, my Phillips 8X10 came pickled with penetrating marine expoxy, which not only stabilizes the wood but is far more water resistant to moisture than any conventional product. But it's Achilles heel is UV. It's supposed to have paint over it or it starts to yellow, and eventually goes brittle and peels. After all these years, my Phillips has indeed yellowed (it's the original blonde model), but it's only out of it's pack for actual shooting, and then covered with a big darkcloth, so still seems to have plenty of years to go before needing a finish tune-up.