Developing B&W sheet film at home for a total beginner!

[mbodine]

Hi All,

I'm evaluating my options for developing film at home because it's so expensive to have done professionally. I have been shooting 9x12cm sheet film and don't have access to a completely dark room. I do have a changing bag to that I use to load the film. I've been looking at the options, and this tank seems like a good option: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63620-REG/Yankee_YACF45_Cut_Film_Daylight_Developing.html#customerReview

Anybody have advice about using tanks like that? Or advice in getting started with developing in general?

Thanks,

Mike

[Lou Baleur]

In my experience, those tanks are hard to load, very cumbersome to use or agitate, and use a lot of chemistry. They work but will turn you off of home developing. For a beginner who wants to develop multiple sheets, I'd recommend getting a beseler motor base and tube with appropriate inserts for your size sheet film. You can use it in the daylight and they use considerably less chemistry--so little that you can use your chemicals as "one shot" and not think you're throwing good chemicals down the drain. The tubes are just as messy, but much easier and more consistent, in my experience. A small 8x10 tube will hold at least 4 of your sheets and will use maybe 4 oz--maybe 3--it's been a while since I've used an 8x10 tube.

or you can lightproof the bathroom with cardboard, tinfoil, tape, whatever, and tray develop. Very cheapest option. Or even try to tray develop in the changing bag. It's possible but will probably give you a big a mess problem inside the bag. Perhaps build a large plastic tray bottomed cardboard topped "processing box" to tray develop in daylight. You can use a cut up changing bag to make the arm sleeves for daylight processing.

[JeffBradford]

Try using an interior room at night with the door closed and all the lights in the house off. If there is a window, cover it. Maybe hang a blanket over the inside of the bathroom door and put plywood over the tub for a work surface. I was able to lay out four 8x10 trays on mine. I do one sheet at a time, continuous agitation by gently rocking the tray - alternating tipping up the front edge then the side edge 20 times each, repeating until the timer beeps.

[Doremus Scudder]

Tray processing is cheapest and the most low-tech. Years ago I built a small plywood sink that stood on legs over the tub in my bathroom. I could set it up and darken the window and door in just a few minutes. I still tray develop in 5x7 trays just like then in my U.S. darkroom and in my makeshift darkroom/bathroom in Vienna.
Really, setting out four or five 5x7 trays doesn't take much room. There is a learning curve to tray developing, but if you are moderately dexterous, you can master that with a little practice. The challenge, it seems to me, is finding a dark place to work.

If you really can't make a dark space to work in, you'll have to load a tank or tube in the changing bag and develop in daylight. There are lots of options, from the Beseler tubes mentioned above to the more expensive Jobo as well as tanks in all kinds of sizes. Many here have had success for small-volume processing with the SP-445 tank. The first generation had some problems with the filmholder-inserts, but I believe this has been corrected in the second generation.
Here's a link: https://www.freestylephoto.biz/445100-SP-445-4x5-Developing-Tank-with-Two-Holders

Best,

Doremus

[Pere Casals]

I also consider tray development the straightest way, for that I use xtol 1:1 so it covers well the sheets without wasting developer (and one shot usage), I do development in darkness, then I move sheets to another tray with stop bath. Once sheets are in the stop bath for some 15 seconds you can open lights because development is stopped and later you can also fix also with lights open. By viewing the time fixer takes to clear the sheet you know how fresh fixer remains...

You can do that with 4x5 sized trays or use a 8x10 able tray to process 4 sheets at a time, in that case just use hot glue to place some sticks working as separators :).


172622


Of course if you want you can develop each of the 4 sheets with different time by dipping each particular sheet soon or later.

This would give you time to explore what daylight tank system you want (SP-445 looks nice), still that tray development is very flexible because you can process one sheet with N time and another one with N-2 time, because that I often use it, this is amazing ! Also you can process a TMX sheet at same time than an HP5 sheet because you may take off each sheet at the right time.

A problem with that is controlling times without throwing light on the sheets, I was using an old watch with phosphorescent clock hands.

A big improvement is using a "Doran" like "paper safe" as a tray, you can also glue the separator sticks there, and when you close the door you can open lights if you want.

[baro-nite]

I use the SP-445 daylight tank mentioned above. It's easy to load, somewhat like loading film holders, it develops four sheets with half a liter of solution, and it also works as a film washer, which is a significant bonus in my view. It's not perfect; I did have a problem with one side of one of the holders, but I've got that worked out now (and I didn't lose any negatives because of it; I would occasionally get streaks of anti-halation coating remaining on non-emulsion side of the film, and this could be removed by re-fixing).

[Havoc]

Having developed a dozen 4x5's I consider myself a beginner as well. I choose to go with a Jobo 2509n because it only uses 260ml of chemistry for 6 sheets IF you use a roller. Loading it is rather easy but in a changing bag it can get cramped with 3 holders, the 2509 and the tank. So far I'm happy.

[John Kasaian]

IMHO, the easiest and cheapest is trays.
If don't have the room for trays in a dark room, then rotary processing.
For 5x7 and smaller I've used a stainless daylight tank(the kind that hold multiple reels of medium format film) and simply rolled it around on a counter top for agitation.
I've also used a Unicolor processor---use the print(paper) drum for sheet film. This is described in Graywolf Phillips article on the LF home page---click on the light blue banner
^^^^up there^^^^

[consummate_fritterer]

I agree with others who advocate either tray or open tank processing with hangers. I prefer the latter. Find a way to darken the room. :)

[tuco]

I too have the Stearman Press SP-445 (https://www.freestylephoto.biz/445100-SP-445-4x5-Developing-Tank-with-Two-Holders) daylight developing tank for 4x5 sheet film. You can develop your sheet film like 120 roll film. It's pretty easy to use.

[aclark]

I also consider tray development the straightest way, for that I use xtol 1:1 so it covers well the sheets without wasting developer (and one shot usage), I do development in darkness, then I move sheets to another tray with stop bath. Once sheets are in the stop bath for some 15 seconds you can open lights because development is stopped and later you can also fix also with lights open. By viewing the time fixer takes to clear the sheet you know how fresh fixer remains...

You can do that with 4x5 sized trays or use a 8x10 able tray to process 4 sheets at a time, in that case just use hot glue to place some sticks working as separators :).


172622


Of course if you want you can develop each of the 4 sheets with different time by dipping each particular sheet soon or later.

This would give you time to explore what daylight tank system you want (SP-445 looks nice), still that tray development is very flexible because you can process one sheet with N time and another one with N-2 time, because that I often use it, this is amazing ! Also you can process a TMX sheet at same time than an HP5 sheet because you may take off each sheet at the right time.

A problem with that is controlling times without throwing light on the sheets, I was using an old watch with phosphorescent clock hands.

A big improvement is using a "Doran" like "paper safe" as a tray, you can also glue the separator sticks there, and when you close the door you can open lights if you want.

I used a tray with dividers like this for a number of years. My dividers were plastic rawlplugs. I didn't find it necessary to transfer the film to a different tray for stop bath and fixing. The sheets of film stick to the bottom of the tray by suction when you tip the tray up to pour the developer out. The stop bath is then poured into the same tray - in the dark of course - then this is poured out and the fixer poured in. Then, with the light on the fixer is poured out and the film is washed in the same tray. Before you start the whole process you prepare everything by having the developer, stop bath and fixer set out in three different containers. Three different sized jugs helps, so each can be distinguished in the dark. And it helps that each sheet of film is placed one at a time into a dry tray prior to the developer being poured in.

Alan

[Ted R]

................. Find a way to darken the room. :)

..............as in completely black-out the room. Sticky tape and heavy duty black contractor trash bags can be used.

[Pere Casals]

I used a tray with dividers like this for a number of years. My dividers were plastic rawlplugs. I didn't find it necessary to transfer the film to a different tray for stop bath and fixing. The sheets of film stick to the bottom of the tray by suction when you tip the tray up to pour the developer out. The stop bath is then poured into the same tray - in the dark of course - then this is poured out and the fixer poured in. Then, with the light on the fixer is poured out and the film is washed in the same tray. Before you start the whole process you prepare everything by having the developer, stop bath and fixer set out in three different containers. Three different sized jugs helps, so each can be distinguished in the dark. And it helps that each sheet of film is placed one at a time into a dry tray prior to the developer being poured in.

Alan

It is true, not necessary at all to transfer the film. Anyway lights can be openned after few seconds of stop bath. Normally I dip all four sheets in the tray with developer at near the same time, then I transfer each individual sheet to the stop tray after its particular time is over, and when all sheets are in the stop bath I opne lights, never have seen additional fog because openning light, and this removes the need to manipulate liquids in the dark, just for convenience and for preventing spills. Your way is also good, but I prefer fixing lights open as I can realize the remaining fixer strength, and I can realize the necessary fixing time from the time it takes the sheet be cleared.

[aclark]

It is true, not necessary at all to transfer the film. Anyway lights can be openned after few seconds of stop bath. Normally I dip all four sheets in the tray with developer at near the same time, then I transfer each individual sheet to the stop tray after its particular time is over, and when all sheets are in the stop bath I opne lights, never have seen additional fog because openning light, and this removes the need to manipulate liquids in the dark, just for convenience and for preventing spills. Your way is also good, but I prefer fixing lights open as I can realize the remaining fixer strength, and I can realize the necessary fixing time from the time it takes the sheet be cleared.

Pere, yes, I see the advantage of your method of working. I didn't know you could subject the film to light before fixing...

Alan

[Pere Casals]

It is true, not necessary at all to transfer the film. Anyway lights can be openned after few seconds of stop bath. Normally I dip all four sheets in the tray with developer at near the same time, then I transfer each individual sheet to the stop tray after its particular time is over, and when all sheets are in the stop bath I opne lights, never have seen additional fog because openning light, and this removes the need to manipulate liquids in the dark, just for convenience and for preventing spills. Your way is also good, but I prefer fixing lights open as I can realize the remaining fixer strength, and I can realize the necessary fixing time from the time it takes the sheet be cleared.

Or course we can also dip each particular sheet sheet with some particular delay to obtain different development times and then using your way.

With trays I see too good things, one is that we can process sheets with different times easily, the other is that trays are less sensitive to bromide drags with low agitation patterns, as gravity does not help the drag. If using thanks we need two tanks. But with a 8x10 with 4 separations we can even use 4 different times... Once I did a N-1, a N-0, a N+2 and another sheet of a different film... but one has to be careful not to make mistakes...

[tonyowen]

. I choose to go with a Jobo 2509n because it only uses 260ml of chemistry for 6 sheets IF you use a roller..

Agreed I use a Jobo 2500 tank that with 2502 and 2509 reels I can process anything from 35mm to 4x5. I use a roller base onto which the tank rests and is then hand rolled.
I process 4 sheets of 4x5 to remove the possibility of any touching if I insert six sheets. Loading the 4x5 sheets can be a bit fiddly - especially if you and/or your hands are in the dark (no pun intended).

Daylight processing means that accidental liquid spillage is minimized- whereas with tray development you are moving and handling containers of liquids into and out of your 'darkroom' and in addition possible sloshing the liquids out of their trays.

regards

Tony

[Peter Lewin]

I tray develop my own 4x5 film, but one tank option no one has mentioned yet is the MOD54 unit which fits inside a Patterson 3-reel tank. I normally develop 6 sheets at a time in trays with one liter of working developer (usually a highly diluted developer such as PMK or Pyrocat). I don't know how much more is needed in the Patterson tank, but with any high-dilution developer as those above mentioned, or Kodak HC-110, it will still be inexpensive. B&H sell the tank and MOD54 as a kit.

[Pere Casals]

Pere, yes, I see the advantage of your method of working. I didn't know you could subject the film to light before fixing...

Alan

There is no problem, some say that if fixing with lights open it can take a little more to fix, but I find it takes the same time.

Once in the stop bath developer action stops completely, no hallide reacts any more to metallic. And the remaining (not developed) hallide is cleared by fixer in the same way.

Even if you open lights just before moving the sheet it is possible you see no additional fog because the newly exposed grains do not develop inmediately because necessary "induction time" before the new development starts. I made personal tests to be sure that no fog is induced by openning lights after 15s in the stop bath, I saw no additional fog after measuring with a precision densitometer...

[aclark]

Pere, it is interesting how we independently thought of the same idea - to separate each sheet with a series of "fence posts". I did it because when I started doing 5x4 I was using 5x7 film that someone gave me. I cut it down to 5x4 but when I tray developed with the shuffle method, the cut edges scratched the film. So I hit on the idea of keeping each sheet separate.

Alan

[Pere Casals]

Pere, it is interesting how we independently thought of the same idea - to separate each sheet with a series of "fence posts". I did it because when I started doing 5x4 I was using 5x7 film that someone gave me. I cut it down to 5x4 but when I tray developed with the shuffle method, the cut edges scratched the film. So I hit on the idea of keeping each sheet separate.

Alan

In my case I copied the idea, but I don't remember the source, perhaps it was you speaking about it because I think rawlplugs were used, but I don't remember it well...

Later I saw a Photographers' Formulary tray divider:

172638

also this one for 6 sheets... http://www.summitek.com/cradle.html

And at the end I also saw in a youtube video that was doing that in a paper safe.

But in your case having had the idea is a good thing... Having the things done with common materials is not a very Pro way it is something amazing for amateurs like me.

[Jac@stafford.net]

Lots of very good information here!

My two bits, I have a few Honeywell Rocking Trays (https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzQ5WDk5OQ==/z/E8EAAOSwhqhZ7h2C/$_57.JPG?set_id=8800005007). These were first made for processing 8x10" color prints but are perfect for one-at-a-time 8x10 film processing with minimum (or all you wish) chemistry. All stainless so they keep developer at an even temperature in a water bath consisting of one 11x14 or 8x10 tray. Each end has a film retaining edge. There are emptying ports at each side-end for rapid chemistry change.

Today I use Unicolor rotors and tubes for daylight processing far more economical than JOBO.

Sloshers as Pere posted are really efficient for 4x5. I donated mine away. :(

[Havoc]

I tray develop my own 4x5 film, but one tank option no one has mentioned yet is the MOD54 unit which fits inside a Patterson 3-reel tank. I normally develop 6 sheets at a time in trays with one liter of working developer (usually a highly diluted developer such as PMK or Pyrocat). I don't know how much more is needed in the Patterson tank, but with any high-dilution developer as those above mentioned, or Kodak HC-110, it will still be inexpensive. B&H sell the tank and MOD54 as a kit.

I bought a MOD54 together as a set with a Paterson Super System 4 where it just fits in. While inserting the film is easy I never trusted the lid enough to actually use it. It also taken 1 liter of chemicals.

[Chuck Pere]

Don't forget that you need an option that takes 9x12cm sheets not the more common 4x5. Make sure any tank you buy does this. I use the old adjustable Nikor stainless steel cut film tank for 9x12cm. Unfortunately they are rare and expensive nowadays. If you can afford one the upside is that you can probably sell it easily if you don't like it.

[aclark]

.... Having the things done with common materials is not a very Pro way it is something amazing for amateurs like me.

I like simple practical solutions too - especially when they work! (Mine don't always....)

Alan

[tonyowen]

Don't forget that you need an option that takes 9x12cm sheets not the more common 4x5. Make sure any tank you buy does this.

The 2509 /2509n reels have this option as standard.

regards
Tony

[John Kasaian]

Hi All,

I'm evaluating my options for developing film at home because it's so expensive to have done professionally. I have been shooting 9x12cm sheet film and don't have access to a completely dark room. I do have a changing bag to that I use to load the film. I've been looking at the options, and this tank seems like a good option: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/63620-REG/Yankee_YACF45_Cut_Film_Daylight_Developing.html#customerReview

Anybody have advice about using tanks like that? Or advice in getting started with developing in general?

Thanks,

Mike

A bathroom with a piece of cardboard wedged into the window frame when it's night time is dark enough for my developing needs. Use a towel to block light from leaking under the door, maybe self adhesive weatherstripping if you've got leaks around the door frame.

[Havoc]

The 2509 /2509n reels have this option as standard.

regards
Tony

Yes, but make sure when buying second hand that those "plates" for keeping the film inside the grooves come along come along.

[David Schaller]

Yes, but make sure when buying second hand that those "plates" for keeping the film inside the grooves come along come along.
You can use the reels without the wings, especially if you fully load the reel with six sheets.

[barnacle]

Am I the only one left using the Combi-Plan T 4x5 developing tank? Not made any longer, but they pop up on the bay from time to time.

Does six 4x5 films or plates, plus a few other formats. DIsadvantage is that you can't invert it, but I've never found that an issue, and with a high-concentrate developer like R-09 the 1050ml load isn't an issue either. Takes 20-30 seconds to load and drain, so you don't want to do short dev times, but again, I've not had in issue with 9 min develop, two minute wash, and 4 minute fix.

Neil

[koraks]

You can use the reels without the wings, especially if you fully load the reel with six sheets.

I routine develop only 2 or 4 sheets in the 2509 reel without any wings. In fact, I think I read that some experience uneven development with the wings. I'm sure I must have them lying around somewhere, but I don't see any need for digging hem up.
Overall, I find the 2509 to load quite easily (more so than the mod54) and it's economical in terms of chemistry. Do watch out for the minimum developer amount per sheet as it's easy to exhaust it with some developers; e.g. 6 sheets in 300ml of pyrocat hd 1+1+100 basically means development to exhaustion and inconsistent results compared to roll film or less sheets!

[Willie]

A good source of trays with smooth bottoms for developing is Pyrex glass baking dishes.
Whether bought new or in Rummage/yard/garage sales they work well and no problems with chemical stains as with some plastics.

[Jimi]

When I started out (with the old Tmax 100 in Tmax RS) I developed in trays, one or at most two at a time. A bit wasteful with the developer perhaps. I got the impression from reading various sources that it would be sort of hard to do, especially with Tmax films (I guess the John Sexton article on the LF home page got me a bit worried).

Looking back, it was easier than it was made out to be. No problems when going slow, checking two times and a bit of care in handling the film. If I would start over again, I would do what I do now - tank on roller, with a few sheets at a time - much less waste and hogging less space when you have to work outside darkroom facilities.