Incident meter technique

[ericantonio]

Hola amigos!!! (that's how we roll in SoCal)
I've been using my old trusty Sekonic studio meter for decades. I love it. But for some reason, I bought a great priced Gossen Luna Pro SBC.
I rarely use reflected light metering and I just kinda adjust my exposures and developing for it.

Now I know the slider thingy on the Luna Pro has to be in the middle for incident. I was wondering, can I hold the meter UP like my sekonic and it'll get an decent reading? I have the old old upton and upton book and it has the drawing of the gal on how to take a incident with the Luna Pro and basically, for reflected, you point it to the subject which is a given and we all know, but for the incident, it has the gal...AT the subject, pointing the meter towards the camera.

Bascially, the meter is parrallel to the ground. Was wondering if I can stand where I am, and hold up like vertical from where I am, and take a reading? Will the dome on it be sufficient to do that or do I still need to POINT it to where my camera/lens would be?

Sound like I'm overthinking this right? I know, maybe it's the 3 cups of coffee this morning

[Dan Fromm]

Eric, that's pretty much what I do with my old LunaPro (= LunaSix III), Master V, and Sekonic L-328.

[xkaes]

Different meter are structured differently, but for incident metering, you point the DOME at the camera (in front of the subject, if possible). Whether the body of the meter is pointing at the subject is irrelevant. Many meters let you re-position the dome so that the meter readout is pointed at you, while the dome is pointed at the subject.

[Old_Dick]

You can download a manual for it. Nice meter BTW, I just got one. Trying to figure out BTZS.

[Kevin Crisp]

In 44+ years of using a Luna Pro I always pointed it back at the camera position from the subject or, if that’s not possible, from the same light falling on the subject. Always worked for me with that meter and my Weston Vs. If light on the subject is a bit patchy, then you have to give that some thought. Being in bright or dark patch could throw things off and move you off “average.”

[BrianShaw]

Your getting good advise. I can’t add anything more than I do what they are telling you to do.

[Andy Eads]

My late lamented alma mater, Brooks Institute, taught an interesting technique in the early 70s. As described so well by so many previously, you simply point the integrating hemisphere at the camera from the subject position (or simulate the condition as best you can if the subject is hard or dangerous to reach.) We also learned to take a reading from the shadow side of the subject. The goal is to know the ratio between the directly illuminated parts of you photo and the shadow side visible to the camera. With some bit of testing, you can relate the ratio to a suitable development time and also arrive at a good exposure. I have lost my notes on the exact process or I'd share the details. I made many nicely printable negatives that way. If you can control the lighting ratio, you can control the whole thing from concept to finished print reliably. Have fun with this!

[Randy]

Ken Lee gives a nice little tutorial (http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/tech/index.php) for metering on his website.

[Ken Lee]

You might find this brief article helpful: A Simpler Approach to Metering (http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/tech/index.php#simpler).

[Randy]

That's fine Ken, just ignore the fact that I had just posted a link to your web page...doesn't hurt my feelings at all...

[Ken Lee]

That's fine Ken, just ignore the fact that I had just posted a link to your web page...doesn't hurt my feelings at all...

Sorry - I didn't see that you had posted an actual link. The link color is rather close to that of the ordinary type.

[Randy]

Yes, the link color has been problems before. I wonder if it can be changed...

[Ken Lee]

I don't know about that, but when I want to emphasize one, I change the color, like this: Large Format Photography (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/). I use the color "0000FF", which is 100% blue.

[Old_Dick]

If I were to point my meter at 18% (example) using reflective light mode, I would get the same reading if I used the incident correctly? Sorry for being so dense:(

[xkaes]

If I were to point my meter at 18% (example) using reflective light mode, I would get the same reading if I used the incident correctly? Sorry for being so dense:(

The answer is "probably not". It depends on the angle of the reflected light from the card and the light source. If there is "glare" on the card, and that is common, it throws things off. An incident meter can't respond to glare.

[Ken Lee]

Glare aside, there is some controversy about the use of the 18% gray card to determine the middle gray of a scene.

You might find this brief article helpful: The Myth of the 18% Gray Card (http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/tech/index.php#myth)

[xkaes]

It's easy to check yourself -- if you have the gear. Take an incident reading of a subject and a reflectance reading off a gray card in front of the subject. Depending on what you consider "different", they will be.

[Leigh]

Glare aside, there is some controversy about the use of the 18% gray card to determine the middle gray of a scene.
There's no controversy in the camera repair industry.
An 18% reflectance is the value used to calibrate light meters.

The problem in the user world is that most folks don't understand how to use grey cards.

- Leigh

[xkaes]

There is no controversy because there can't be any controversy because there is no controversy because there can't be any controversy.................

And that's that.

[Bob Sawin]

This may be a silly question but when pointing the meter back toward the camera should it be held vertically or horizontally?


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[Leigh]

...when pointing the meter back toward the camera should it be held vertically or horizontally?
All that matters is the axis of the dome. It should be horizontal, and parallel to the axis of the camera lens.

I usually just hold the meter over my head, pointing toward my back, the same direction as the camera from the subject position. If the lighting is uniform this works well. If dense clouds shade the subject, not so well.

- Leigh

[Bob Sawin]

All that matters is the axis of the dome. It should be horizontal, and parallel to the axis of the camera lens.

I usually just hold the meter over my head, pointing toward my back, the same direction as the camera from the subject position. If the lighting is uniform this works well. If dense clouds shade the subject, not so well.

- Leigh

Thanks Leigh.


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[BrianShaw]

All that matters is the axis of the dome. It should be horizontal, and parallel to the axis of the camera lens.

I usually just hold the meter over my head, pointing toward my back, the same direction as the camera from the subject position. If the lighting is uniform this works well. If dense clouds shade the subject, not so well.

- Leigh

You're quite right, of course, that all that really counts is the axis and direction of the dome. I'm not sure this is a significant consideration, but perhaps the meter should be held in the manner specified by the manufacturer. For example (the meters I use): Gossen LunaPro and Sekonic L-558 - vertically; Weston - horizontally. Perhaps Weston is unique in how it likes to be held. I always held it vertically until (many years later) learning that Weston specifies holding it horizontally... the way the meter marking as are oriented. I doubt the balance of the mechanism changes that much but...

And last time I reached my hand over my shoulder to point the meter behind me I wrenched my shoulder, so now I usually turn around. Something to think about... :)

[Bob Sawin]

And last time I reached my hand over my shoulder to point the meter behind me I wrenched my shoulder, so now I usually turn around. Something to think about... :)


LOL...I share your pain...often. Thanks for the info on the Wesson.



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[docw]

All that matters is the axis of the dome. It should be horizontal, and parallel to the axis of the camera lens.

- Leigh

What is the axis of a dome? I am not getting this. :confused:

Should the dome point at the camera, or should the dome point at the sky?

[IanBarber]

What is the axis of a dome? I am not getting this. :confused:

Should the dome point at the camera, or should the dome point at the sky?

The dome should point at the camera

[docw]

Thanks, Ian. That seemed intuitive but after being a spot-meter guy for so many years, I needed to check.

[Leigh]

What is the axis of a dome? I am not getting this. :confused:
The dome is a hemisphere.

Its axis passes through the center of its base, perpendicular to its base.

- Leigh

[Jac@stafford.net]

I cannot understand how people cannot grasp how to use incident light metering. Has some cultural shift occurred in my fifty years of photography? I'm serious. In the early Sixties everyone (I knew) understood it.

Read Leigh's posts and be happy.

[Bob Sawin]

I cannot understand how people cannot grasp how to use incident light metering. Has some cultural shift occurred in my fifty years of photography? I'm serious. In the early Sixties everyone (I knew) understood it.

Read Leigh's posts and be happy.

I did, and I am. Please forgive me for causing you such stress.


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[Jac@stafford.net]

I did, and I am. Please forgive me for causing you such stress.

Us old fellows, grey beards, have to stick together. Sometimes I forget when I knew so little. Welcome, and my apology, Sir.

[Bob Sawin]

Us old fellows, grey beards, have to stick together. Sometimes I forget when I knew so little. Welcome, and my apology, Sir.
LOL..I'm going to feed my beard and then take it for a long walk. Best to you Jac.


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