View Full Version : Fuji Acros DBI

Arthur Nichols
30-Jul-2005, 07:12
Is anyone developing Fujo Acros by inspection? I have just purchased some in Quickloads and developed some in X-tol using DBI. I cannot see the highlights come through the base like I usually do with FP4+. I would like to hear others experience sand procedures when using DBI.
Maybe another developer is better? Any input is appreciated.

Dan Jolicoeur
30-Jul-2005, 12:55
I think once you print the negatives you will be able to see the highlights. The t grain films are maybe not the best film for developing by inspection. I am using acros with xtol, and find it to be a great combination. Why do you want to develop by inspection? The highlights are there on the film, maybe just too hard to see under a safe light. I had a hard time on the light table when I 1st switched, but the info was all there when I ran through the enlarger. I think if you do some time test and devlopment test you will find this film to be a fine combo. Maybe someone who does DBI can chime in, but that has been my experience with the film. I am extremley happy with the results but was a little apprehensive before I had printed anything and just saw them on the light table.

Stay positive,

Eric Biggerstaff
30-Jul-2005, 13:03
I use Fuji Neopan 100 Arcos and develop in Xtol stock (no dilution). I do not develop by inspection. This film does take some getting used to and you should test, however I have never had a problem seeing highlights when on the light table. But like I said, I don't develop by inspection so take what I say with a grain of salt. As Dan asked, why develop by inpsection?

Arthur Nichols
30-Jul-2005, 19:45
Just to clarify my question there seems to be some misunderstanding. I am not talking about having trouble seeing the highlights on my negatives after they are developed. Seeing the highlights on the light table is not too difficult. I am having trouble seeing the highlights come through the base side of the film under a green safelight. Whoever has done DBI knows what I am talking about. I have developed FP4+ and HP5 for years using DBI and I like to do it. I get great results by doing it. I was hoping that there might actually be someone doing this who had it worked out.
Thanks for all the other information.

John Berry ( Roadkill )
31-Jul-2005, 01:58
I just started doing DBI. I use mainly fp-4, but I also have had good results with acros and pyrocat. I aquired a set of night vision goggles and watch the film develop on the emultion side. You have to do it enought o know when to make the call just as when you use a light. Nice thing about pyrocat is it desensitizes the film and you are less likely to fog film. In fact I used a yellow filter instead of green with no ill effects whatsoever.

Dan Jolicoeur
31-Jul-2005, 07:39
I have never developed by inspection, and it was my understanding that this was done when materials and techniques demanded it. I canít understand why anybody would want to do this with a fine grain emulsion, could you please enlighten me. Is it just the new trendy thing to do? I can see no advantage of the fine grain emulsions of getting better control of a process then using test time and temperature than emitting the film to a safe light while developing. Isnít this a form of solarization, Iím exaggerating? With todayís equipment and fine film why go backwards? In no way can I see that you would have greater control of a process. Here I am with night blindness stumbling around in the darkroom, keeping my safelights to a minimum when developing paper. As far as film that is all loaded in a jobo tank in total darkness. A matter of fact I practiced so much when I 1st started with my eyes closed in the light, that I still catch myself closing my eyes in the darkroom, luckily no one can see how stupid it must look.

By all means develop how you get the best results. I am just trying to understand this.
Using night vision goggles to help achieve this? Great idea, but why?

Ole Tjugen
31-Jul-2005, 07:59
Some developers develop from the surface down. I have seen this with Beutler's and FX-2, both examples of what used to be called "surface developers". It would seem that Xtol falls in that category too! By the time the highlights show on the back the negative is overdeveloped and the highlights bulletproof...

The only solution is to inspect by transmission: Hold the negative up to the light.

I was very surprised to see this so clearly, and it gave me a whole new understanding of some of the old concepts in developing.

There are many good reasons for DBI: Many of my lenses are old, with correspondingly old and inaccurate shutters. Some have no shutters at all, and exposure depends on the accuracy of my hat. Lighting conditions change rapidly, and I'm not always prepared for it. I often shoot scenes with extreme contrast ranges, and DBI is far easier and cheaper than trying to find a correct time, temperature and agitation for N-5. If I wish to walk far when out taking pictures, I'll try to minimise the baggage by bringing fewer holders and only one empty box for exposed film. I don't always remember which order they were put in the box - should this negative be developed N+2 or N-3? DBI is the anwer to these "problems": Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights. One could say that the entire Zone system is an attempt at doing this blind. So why not inspect ?

John Berry ( Roadkill )
1-Aug-2005, 23:59
I agree with Ole. Time and temp have also worked for me for years also. With DBI I get better results when I take a portrait of Abby Normal. You know, when you mixed the wrong dilutions, didn't notice the shutter speed or f-stop was what you intended. Or my favorite trick, loading a different film and forgetting to note it on the holder. As for the goggles, the kids all moved out and now I can afford a toy.

Jorge Gasteazoro
2-Aug-2005, 00:32
Dan, I tried my hand at DBI and did not find it particularly useful outside of the situations Ole mentions. Since I use BTZS with the palm and all my shutters are modern, I dont have the problems he might encounter. Now that I have a Jobo I would slit my wrists before I go and stand in front of a tray for minutes. In my situation with scenes in a semi desertic area with lots of sun I found that DBI was not as useful for arrested developing as it would be the situation for normal or expanded contrast negatives.

The only reason I would think anybody would want to do DBI exclusively is for those who dislike methodical development and/or testing. Set your ISO at half the manufacturers speed and see it develop. It works once you become experienced in judging the highlights. Other than that I see no advantage.