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campy
29-Oct-2017, 00:03
Just picked up a 45MX and a car load of accessories. It has a cold light and normal head. I know there is a learning curve for beginners but which head if any requires less learning. Is this pretty straight forward putting it all back together? It also came with a Seal 210M dry mount press which will most likely be put up for sale since I probably will not use it along with a mat cutter.

j.e.simmons
29-Oct-2017, 03:27
Did the cold light come with a stabilizer of some kind? If not, getting consistent light can add to the learning process. Also, negatives enlarged with a cold light usually require more contrast. Thus, I would say the regular head has a less steep learning curve. Assembly is straight forward. I believe I once found a manual online for mine.

xkaes
29-Oct-2017, 05:53
I assume the "normal" head is a Beseler condenser head. Can you confirm this? I also assume the cold light head is not Beseler. Can you tell us the name? What else did you get and why won't you use the press?

brucetaylor
29-Oct-2017, 06:02
My understanding is that the cold light head doesn't work with VC paper. I got one with my 45 MXT, I'll never use it.

xkaes
29-Oct-2017, 06:19
A few decades ago, Darkroom Techniques (?), did a review of several cold light heads and VC papers. As I recall, their conclusion was that different heads -- due to their different color of light produced (usually bluish) -- created different contrasts with different papers. In short, they are usable with VC paper, but you really need to run your own tests with your specific paper(s) to determine the final contrasts -- and maybe use more filtration than expected.

brucetaylor
29-Oct-2017, 06:35
xkaes-- good to know. Though I will surely never experiment. It just looks like a dead end with modern materials.

LabRat
29-Oct-2017, 08:00
A few decades ago, Darkroom Techniques (?), did a review of several cold light heads and VC papers. As I recall, their conclusion was that different heads -- due to their different color of light produced (usually bluish) -- created different contrasts with different papers. In short, they are usable with VC paper, but you really need to run your own tests with your specific paper(s) to determine the final contrasts -- and maybe use more filtration than expected.

No, the P45 phosphor emits green and blue (about balanced for #2 contrast), so it can be used with filters ...

Steve K

xkaes
29-Oct-2017, 09:04
No, the P45 phosphor emits green and blue (about balanced for #2 contrast), so it can be used with filters ...

That's the key word -- "ABOUT". And that's why Darkroom Techniques took the time to run their tests. Not because they simply had just run out of things to do. They knew that there probably would be differences between brands of cold light heads when mixed with brands of paper. And that's exactly what they found. They didn't say cold light heads are completely incompatible with RC paper. They said that different heads produced different amounts of contrast on different papers -- and that might be important for shutterbugs to know, and check out themselves (because they didn't test all cold light heads and all papers).

LabRat
29-Oct-2017, 09:11
Do you actually use this stuff???

Steve K

Leigh
29-Oct-2017, 09:13
It's important to run tests with EVERY combination of light source and paper that you use.
That's true for every type of light source, regardless of what it is.
It's even necessary when you install a new bulb (or bulbs) in an enlarger head.

That's the only way you can calibrate the system for your working style and equipment.

I installed my 45MX in my darkroom 32 years ago, and have used it extensively ever since.
I absolutely love it. Mine has an Ilford 500H multi-grade head for vc paper.

- Leigh

xkaes
29-Oct-2017, 09:32
Yeah, I found this out the hard way years ago when using my Point Light Source. I have it on a voltage regulator but the light is so bright that I wanted to dim the light and increase the exposure times. But by dimming the output from the bulb, it changed the color dramatically -- just look at any incandescent bulb on a standard dimmer switch. It's like exposing paper to a 100W light bulb versus a candle flame. My exposures were perfect -- thanks to my trusty Minolta Autometer II -- but the contrast changed dramatically. It took me a couple of minutes to figure out the problem, and that's when I switched to ND filters for longer exposures (you use a Point Light Source wide open).

xkaes
29-Oct-2017, 09:41
Do you actually use this stuff???

Steve K

AND I even take pictures with my trusty Toko Tone which makes 14x14mm images on 17.5mm film.

171334

campy
29-Oct-2017, 09:59
it is a Zone VI light head. I will be posting some pictures after the football game.

xkaes
29-Oct-2017, 10:15
I'm only vaguely familiar with the Zone VI head. My Beseler has two cords that come out of it. Yours is probably the same. One is for turning the bulb(s) ON/OFF. The other is a heater to keep the bulb warm so that the output color stays the same. You can check this your self to determine which is which. Voltage regulators/stabilizers are frequently used -- and you might have one somewhere. Others will kick in with more details on your specific head. Zone VI didn't actually make them, but I don't know those details.

P.S. I have an owners manual for the MXII which will help if you don't have one. There are some slight differences between the MX and the MXII. Are you sure it's an MX -- the front plate will either say MX or MXII. Others might have the manual for your cold light head. So basically, you have a condenser and a diffusion head. They each have their advocates and detractors. I use both because they give me more contrast control -- condenser, higher, and diffusion, lower.

campy
29-Oct-2017, 11:32
Here is some of what I picked. It turns out it's two complete enlargers but when I picked it up it was packed in a box and he said there were two heads so I didn't think to take the other stand and baseboard because my car was filled. I will pick up the other stand and sell one of the setups. The cold light unit appears to be well used. There are some clips in the 3rd picture that I don't know where they go.
171337 171338 171339 171340

xkaes
29-Oct-2017, 12:29
Something is amiss here. First, on the plate on the lower right of the chassis -- on the power elevator -- what does it say "MX" or "MXII"?

Second, the cold light head REPLACES the condenser on the enlarger. Your picture shows it ON TOP of the condenser. The condenser should be UNDERNEATH the condenser head/bulb part. Maybe the "adapters" are to connect the cold light head to the enlarger. I suspect they are screws (3) to attach the condenser lamphouse to the condenser.

campy
29-Oct-2017, 13:57
It says MXT on the lift motor label. Is this the proper combination for the 2 heads? I can't find how the condenser lenses are installed in the non cold light head.
171342 171343

campy
29-Oct-2017, 13:58
Can someone tell me where and which order the spacer ring, heat absorbing glass and the two condenser lenses get installed?

xkaes
29-Oct-2017, 15:09
You have it right in the first picture. The condenser and lamp assembly are removed using the the two large sliding tabs on the sides (on the bottom). They should stay together. The cold light head should slide into the chassis to replace them. You do NOT use the condenser with the cold light head. If the cold light head does not fit or engage correctly, something -- like an adapter -- is missing, but I don't need an adapter for my cold light head. It fits perfectly.

xkaes
29-Oct-2017, 15:10
The heat absorbing glass is built into the condenser assembly. You have to provide more details on this.

xkaes
29-Oct-2017, 15:13
Does the cold light head fit into the hole in the second picture? It should. Then slide the two clamps backwards.

campy
29-Oct-2017, 15:43
How are the condensers installed and what order. They wrapped them up when they disassembled the enlarger.

Tin Can
29-Oct-2017, 16:16
How are the condensers installed and what order. They wrapped them up when they disassembled the enlarger.

Curve to curve, flats are outside top and bottom. Clean them carefully and no fingerprints.

xkaes
29-Oct-2017, 16:17
Look at the part in picture #1 that says 45MX with the three color bands. The condenser cells should be in that piece. They are not easy to remove. If you have condenser elements inside the "plastic bag" it is either another set, or you have some work to do! Send us a picture of what is in the "bag".

campy
29-Oct-2017, 18:03
Look at the part in picture #1 that says 45MX with the three color bands. The condenser cells should be in that piece. They are not easy to remove. If you have condenser elements inside the "plastic bag" it is either another set, or you have some work to do! Send us a picture of what is in the "bag".

There were two different size cells plus a retainer ring and heat absorbing glass.

Tin Can
29-Oct-2017, 18:52
Try reading the manual. I have not. Link below.

I believe if condensers are different sizes they are for smaller than 4X5 formats.

http://www.jollinger.com/photo/cam-coll/manuals/enlargers/beseler/Beseler_45mxt.pdf

Doremus Scudder
30-Oct-2017, 02:34
A couple of things.

The Zone VI cold-light head will work fine with VC papers. Use the below-lens filters. The exact filter spacing may be different than that with a tungsten light source.

The "Compensating Metronome" is the timer for the cold light head. It varies the length of its "seconds" with changes in light intensity so you don't need a stabilizer. You plug it into the sensor plug on the head. You will have to learn to enlarge by counting seconds instead or relying on a timer. It's easy, just count seconds and block the light or step on the footswitch when done with the exposure.

Mounting the cold-light head: The aluminum adapter ring goes into the hole and can be held in place with the two sliding clamps. It's not important unless you plan on using the horizontal projection feature on the enlarger. The cold-light head itself is press fit into the ring. It originally came with a rubber bead that is, or is identical to, the bead used to secure screening in frames. If yours is gone, a trip to the hardware store is all you need.

The Zone VI compensating developing timer is for monitoring the temperature of your developer. Like the metronome, it changes the length of its "seconds" so you don't have to worry about temperature control (within reason). There are three settings, film, paper and "real time," and inset screw controls for light intensity and volume. The weak spot on these is the temperature probe (the L-shaped bracket that should be attached to your developer tray or water bath). Test it with different temperatures of water and be sure the "seconds" are lengthening with cooler temps and becoming shorter with higher.

Best,

Doremus

xkaes
30-Oct-2017, 04:51
I believe if condensers are different sizes they are for smaller than 4X5 formats.

Exactly. In short, we still don't know what you have. You need to give us a MUCH better description AND send us more/better pictures.