Solar eclipse on August 21 - photography ideas?

[cp_photo]

As it turns out I may have a chance to go camping in Oregon the week of the August 21st solar eclipse!

I certainly plan to do some general photography using my 4x5 but would be interested in taking some pictures of the eclipse itself and the reactions of people as it happens.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Extreme ND filter? Eye protection for viewing the ground glass?

[Jim Jones]

Read all you can on solar eclipse photography well ahead of time. Rather than view the ground glass while wearing proper solar glasses, lock the focus on infinity and use a proper solar filter over the camera lens. Any improvised extreme ND filter will be more difficult to use and will likely render poorer images than the right filter. I have successfully photographed solar eclipses near sunset with crossed linear polarizer filters through a lens that could accurately be set on infinity. The lens was covered except for the moments needed to make the exposure. Framing was done by centering the shadow of the lens around the lens mount.

[Chauncey Walden]

Here you go. More than you ever wanted to know by a very good astrophysicist photographer: http://www.clarkvision.com/articles/photograph-the-sun/

[dasBlute]

I plan to spend the scant two minutes or so without worrying about f/stops :)

[Jim Fitzgerald]

You had better be in survival mode and have enough food, water and fuel because it will be gridlock everywhere you go. Be self contained and I hope you are not on the coast because there could be fog or worse yet a forest fire? Hope all goes well for you. I'm staying home.

[cp_photo]

Thanks for the ideas - I'll consider the week a success if I can get there and back. If I manage to take some images, that will be icing on the cake. Thankfully the invite was to car camp on private property so I imagine there won't be any lack of supplies as we will come prepared!

[Don12x20x]

Check the weather forecast carefully. According to the Portland TV weather prognosticators, the weather changes next Monday and we enter a cycle that is characterized for rain/overcast and for eastern Oregon, rain with thunderstorms. We have seen this weather in past years in late August. That being said, I still will go to a private ranch in eastern Oregon....
Don

[AtlantaTerry]

I think the real story to cover will be the rank amateurs blinding themselves by looking directly at the sun with cheap knockoff counterfeit "eclipse glasses" or with their bare eyes.

[stawastawa]

any way to tell if your glasses are nock offs? link?
~nicholas

I think the real story to cover will be the rank amateurs blinding themselves by looking directly at the sun with cheap knockoff counterfeit "eclipse glasses" or with their bare eyes.

edit:
I found this, as a a start. it links to a list of reputable dealers/brand as well: https://www.space.com/37698-solar-eclipse-glasses-safety-check.html

[John Kasaian]

LOL!

When I was a kid the good Holy Cross sisters instructed us to make a pinhole in a cardboard box and tape a piece of typing paper inside the end opposite the pinhole, hold the box over our heads with our backs to the sun and watch the eclipse being projected on the typing paper.

I think that was my first introduction to the wonders of the pinhole.

[Ted R]

168070


Here's a set of exposure recommendations from the KODAK astronomical photo guide from the 1970s. In text that accompanies the table there is a recommendation to bracket plus and minus three stops.

[tgtaylor]

I'm thinking about observing and photographing the eclipse from San Francisco with a 10" Meade SCT at prime focus (2500mm equivalent) equipped with a solar filter. The Meade has dual axis electronic drive (tracks in both declination and right ascension) which eliminates problems due to the earth's rotation making a several second exposure doable.

Thomas

[David Lobato]

I'm curious what the landscape EV light level would be during totality?

[LabRat]

I'm curious what the landscape EV light level would be during totality?

I have photographed partial eclipses and I seem to remember there was at least a 4 stop difference then, the quality of the light drastically changed (dead & non directional), and the warm temp dropped at least 10-15 deg F... (bring sweatshirt or jacket, too)

A camera with a large film load or a lotta chip space, your choice of longer lens, TTL metering, and proper solar filter will make the day... (Better to use a smaller camera, and plan on enlargements...)

If all else fails, have a end of the world party, and dance naked before the angry sun gods to divert end game events... ;-)

Steve K

[Ted R]

I'm curious what the landscape EV light level would be during totality?

Because most of the atmosphere of the earth remains in sunlight the sky is not as black as midnight, however from what I have read, at totality, I expect it to be very dark, flashlights are required.

[Cletus]

168070


Here's a set of exposure recommendations from the KODAK astronomical photo guide from the 1970s. In text that accompanies the table there is a recommendation to bracket plus and minus three stops.

Anybody else have trouble getting this file to open? This is exactly the info I'm looking for....I think.

[Cletus]

And since this seems to the Eclipse Discussion Thread, I'd sure like some advice on exposure for the "totality" using some HP5+ on a 4x5 camera. Anyone?

My plans are to set up a Nikon D300 using some solar filter material in a LEE holder during the partial eclipse phase, than I'd sure like to make a few decent exposures during the totality on some 400 speed film. I plan to use my longest lens, a 305 G-Claron on my Sinar outfit with HP5+ film for this. I understand no filter will be necessary during the totality phase and I'm hoping I can get good exposures of 1 second or less with the lens wide-ish open. Anyone have thoughts on this? I'd hate for exposures to have to be in the several second+ range and have to deal with reciprocity and other issues, not to mention the blur and distortion of the corona stuff during long exposure. I do plan to bracket a few exposures, but I also don't want to spend the whole two minutes or so of the totality fumbling around with film holders and miss the whole experience of seeing this event.

Anyway, I'd sure appreciate a little advice if anyone has any....

[LabRat]

And since this seems to the Eclipse Discussion Thread, I'd sure like some advice on exposure for the "totality" using some HP5+ on a 4x5 camera. Anyone?

My plans are to set up a Nikon D300 using some solar filter material in a LEE holder during the partial eclipse phase, than I'd sure like to make a few decent exposures during the totality on some 400 speed film. I plan to use my longest lens, a 305 G-Claron on my Sinar outfit with HP5+ film for this. I understand no filter will be necessary during the totality phase and I'm hoping I can get good exposures of 1 second or less with the lens wide-ish open. Anyone have thoughts on this? I'd hate for exposures to have to be in the several second+ range and have to deal with reciprocity and other issues, not to mention the blur and distortion of the corona stuff during long exposure. I do plan to bracket a few exposures, but I also don't want to spend the whole two minutes or so of the totality fumbling around with film holders and miss the whole experience of seeing this event.

Anyway, I'd sure appreciate a little advice if anyone has any....

A good idea is to securely fasten down the filter + holder so it can't fall off, and seal off the edges so there is no flare or leakage...

Another good addition is to get a piece of 2' square black foam core, put a hole in it for the lens shade, and mount it on the front of your lens, so it acts as a shade for you while you are viewing or operating your camera, as you are directly facing the sun with the sun directly in your eyes...

Even with the solar filter, the image is still quite bright so exposures are shorter, and a good way to center the frame is there is still a lot of flare (even with the filter) so center the ring of flare on the frame... Expect to place the highlight on the always present corona ring and expect the moon to be in shadow... Sky will be dark, except corona and flare ring due to filter but your exposure will be the same throughout the eclipse due to sun highlight, unless you are shooting your surroundings... Having an auto setting can be helpful, but the thin corona ring brightness might fool TTL systems...

I really don't think it is a LF moment, so think/shoot small...

Test the camera rig outside on the full sun well before event to shake out bugs in the system...

Steve K

[Pfsor]

Sky will be dark, except corona and flare ring due to filter but your exposure will be the same throughout the eclipse due to sun highlight, unless you are shooting your surroundings...

Steve K

Well Steve, you surely did not read this recommendation for the exposure during the eclipse - f/16 with a 5.0 ND filter and f/11 with no filter at all for the different sun phases. That's a huge difference.

168070

Here's a set of exposure recommendations from the KODAK astronomical photo guide from the 1970s. In text that accompanies the table there is a recommendation to bracket plus and minus three stops.

[LabRat]

Well Steve, you surely did not read this recommendation for the exposure during the eclipse - f/16 with a 5.0 ND filter and f/11 with no filter at all for the different sun phases. That's a huge difference.

The sun is still as bright when it is behind the moon, and it's limbs are still visible... Moon is still in shadow... There is a brightness change during a lunar eclipse, but a tele view of a solar event is about the same... The recommendations are assuming a perfect, full eclipse, but there is always some limb showing... It might control the outer corona level a little, but that is usually lost to flare anyway...

I've shot a few of these, made mistakes, and had successes, so I know where to aim the camera... ;-)

Steve K

[consummate_fritterer]

http://www.eclipse2017.org/xavier_redirect.htm

[Pfsor]

The recommendations are assuming a perfect, full eclipse, but there is always some limb showing... It might control the outer corona level a little, but that is usually lost to flare anyway...
Steve K

But that's what is the most interesting to see on the picture - the corona - and it is the reason for varying the exposure!

[LabRat]

But that's what is the most interesting to see on the picture - the corona - and the reason for varying the exposure!

Thats IF you are in the (narrow) path of totality... Good luck with that... Usually a limb showing...

Steve K

[Pfsor]

Thats IF you are in the (narrow) path of totality... Good luck with that... Usually a limb showing...

Steve K

Of course, you cannot take pictures of the corona with 5.0 ND filter!

[BetterSense]

I am not in the path of totality so I will be photographing a partial. The Kodak guide says I can use 50 speed film, f/64, and 1/500 and be in the ballpark, then I don't need a solar filter at all. So why does everyone say you have to have a solar filter? Is the Kodak guide realistic?

[consummate_fritterer]

Please folks, NEVER look at the sun through your camera without appropriate filtration.

[LabRat]

I am not in the path of totality so I will be photographing a partial. The Kodak guide says I can use 50 speed film, f/64, and 1/500 and be in the ballpark, then I don't need a solar filter at all. So why does everyone say you have to have a solar filter? Is the Kodak guide realistic?

First, (safety first) there are a great many IR wavelengths that are hazardous to your eyes normally, and focusing them with optics is worse, so you need to keep them out of the system (that someone will undoubtedly check visually to confirm it is aimed properly, etc), and 'ya don't want to view focused unfiltered sunlight!!!! Use a visual filter where light enters the optical system, and read the recent topic here about "My camera caught fire"...

Second, a limb of the sun is still as bright as the sun (just a smaller portion of it), and even with a solar filter there is still a lot of light passing through (that still produces a great deal of flare), so the filter helps cut the amount entering the system... A short exposure + the ND will limit the highlight produced brightness and will knock down the flare so the entire frame is not fogged over from overexposure + flare... (Fog level is high...) You should just be able to resolve a sunspot or two...

I suspect that exposures listed in the Kodak guides are assumed to be for amateurs that aim their normal FL cameras at the sun that day, and it is expected the sun will overexpose the film on that small dot, so a generous exposure is permitted, but enough to see the outlines of the moon, but working with much longer lenses or telescopes will concentrate more light to the frame and require less exposure, so at least exposure test your rig beforehand in sunlight to see how much less you need to expose, and figure that you have to control your highlights, also enough exposure to see the non backlit edges of the moon, so allow enough exposure for that, but also short enough to keep the fog level down... (Your film will be very reactive under these conditions...)

The older Kodak guides also mention an OK solar visual filter is a couple of fogged-out/developed-out pieces of film stacked together, but now a modern myth as thick emulsion films are gone and today's thin emulsions don't provide the protection they once had, so don't get any ideas about that!!!!

Be safe out there!!!

Steve K

[Cletus]

Thats IF you are in the (narrow) path of totality... Good luck with that... Usually a limb showing...

Steve K

I'm reading over this discussion and comments following my question of exposure during the eclipse totality - and I do plan to travel as close to the center of the path of totality as possible and I'm not anticipating any "limbs" leaking out during that 2 or so minute period, at least from the reading I've done from those who've experienced an eclipse like this.

Point is, it looks like I've culled enough general information about this question of exposure from the various reading and eclipse sites I've visited over the last day or two - - - I was really just hoping to hear someone who's actually done this before say something like, "400 speed film, 1/125 @ f11 worked for well for me", or somesuch thing to give me an idea of a reasonable point from which to bracket my exposures during this event.

/tldr Anyone think 1/125 @ f11 with HP5+ is a reasonable assumption for a good exposure of the eclipse?

[AtlantaTerry]

Back in the late '80s, I experienced an eclipse. What still vividly remember is that the light seemed to be Polarized or at least, that is how everything around me looked. Very interesting.

[Nodda Duma]

From my astrophotography days: when shooting a solar eclipse, bracket widely to capture everything from the Corona to the diamond ring. Do a Google search on exposure for solar eclipse, and you'll find very good resources that explain this. This isn't a new problem.

[Steven Tribe]

Photographing the corona isn't really that interesting. Technical registration rather than Art. More interesting with the Northern/Southern lights in colour or electrical storms.
Now photographing buildings, woodlands etc in that special light is interesting.

[tgtaylor]

Well, it ain't rocket science:

http://spiritsofsilver.com/yahoo_site_admin/assets/images/Sumset-Lands-End.178200420_large.jpg

Shot on Velvia 50.

Thomas

[EarlJam]

JPL posted an eclipse-simulator app that shows the expected effect of the eclipse in various US locales https://eyes.jpl.nasa.gov/eyes-on-eclipse-web-app.html#

168609

[Corran]

Looked today and the sun is so high in the sky at the eclipse time I probably can't do any kind of foreground other than maybe the tops of some trees. I knew it was going to be high but I hadn't really looked. Well at least I'll be able to see totality.

I used a couple of fully developed 4x5 TMX sheets in front of my Pentax 67 with 500mm lens and a WLF/hood to check the results. Seems to be more than enough for indirect viewing.

168615

[Nodda Duma]

I set up my telescope with a solar filter.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170821/6adb1e6561497460a56388ee4ffb6836.jpg

[LabRat]

Nice!!! It picked up the sunspots... Great you got the scope together!!!

My telescope rig was in storage from the move a few weeks ago... Started first to find the solar filter, then scope, tripod, mount, electronics + battery packs, but found the mount, the OTA, but no filter and tripod, so used binocs mounted on a tripod projecting onto a white paper 3 feet away... It enlarged it to about 1 1/4" dia, and I could see the row of 3 sunspots and the filaments between... Then I grabbed a 35mm SLR with a 400mm lens + 5.0 ND filter and shot some medium speed B/W handheld... I don't expect much, just going through the motions from habit... A surprising break in the LA marine layer, and the sky was clear, it always figures it's always good when the scope is not set up... The last one I shot was early last decade that was about 90%, but this was OK, too...

Good shot!!! Next, prepare for the zombie apocalypse tonight...

Steve K

[sanking]

I anticipated the possibility of photographing some reflections of the near totally eclipsed sun and sized some papers for carbon transfer printing for sun hardening and put them on a line at a slight angle to the sun. Very near the time of total eclipse I capture the attached image on two of the sheets of paper, with the sun light filtered by the leaves of an over hanging tree.

As you can see, the shape of the reflections is similar to the ellipse of the sun as covered by the moon. I read about this but seeing the result with such an unusual event, and being able to photograph it, was an incredibly exciting experience.


Sandy

[ic-racer]

From my location it was like post #35 above. I don't have any long lenses, so I did a pinhole on my 8x10 camera. I racked the bellows all the way out. Bracketed 1, 2, 4, 8, 16, 32 seconds. You can see my Cheerios 'spotting scope' and shoebox lid shutter.
168687

[David Schaller]

I anticipated the possibility of photographing some reflections of the near totally eclipsed sun and sized some papers for carbon transfer printing for sun hardening and put them on a line at a slight angle to the sun. Very near the time of total eclipse I capture the attached image on two of the sheets of paper, with the sun light filtered by the leaves of an over hanging tree.

As you can see, the shape of the reflections is similar to the ellipse of the sun as covered by the moon. I read about this but seeing the result with such an unusual event, and being able to photograph it, was an incredibly exciting experience.


Sandy

Just brilliant Sandy!

[Ken Lee]

http://www.kennethleegallery.com/images/forum/2017-08-1475E.jpg
Eclipse from Massachusetts

[ghostcount]

https://vimeo.com/230626943

Viewed somewhere in the North Pacific Ocean.

[David_Senesac]

How did it go cp_photo? Where did you end up?

Capturing the eclipse was going to be difficult enough with a digital camera due to the huge dynamic range. I left my film view camera at home. Drove up 650 miles from South SF Bay Area up to Salem Oregon where totality was 118 seconds. Set up my Canon R700 1080p camcorder on just on the large crowd at Riverfront Park a tent city I was in to get a 4 minute or so video of before till after totality with all the emotional crowd reactions, yelling, screaming, and whooping. That is what I will value into the future for the sake of my personal memories of the phenomenon as a one time event during my lifetime. Incredible beyond words.

I did take a token single image with my A6000 and SEL55210 zoomed max near the end of totality per downsized image below as the diamond ring re-appeared. Full image size is 3500 by 4600 pixels. I didn't want to be monkeying around with my camera during totality as every second of that brief experience was precious gold to be viewed with my eyes and immersed in by all my senses. Lucked out with the exposure after quickly reducing Exposure Compensation from -1 I had been using before totality to shoot the crowd to -3, a crude guess. Brightest areas are a bit clipped but then without setting up an HDR sequence it is a compromise at best. The full image does show a couple stars.

http://www.davidsenesac.com/2017_Trip_Chronicles/RD02788w.jpg

David
http://www.davidsenesac.com/2017_Trip_Chronicles/2017_Trip-Chronicles-0.html

[Bill Burk]

David,

How was the traffic coming back? A friend of ours left immediately after and it took 'til 3am to get back to SF.

I stayed local and drove to where there was a pocket of blue in the fog. Looked for interesting shadows of a tree, which I knew would be interesting. But having seen so many of "those" tree shadow pictures since the eclipse, I think I blew my chance. It would have been more interesting to do a still life with a colander.

[David_Senesac]

David, How was the traffic coming back? A friend of ours left immediately after and it took 'til 3am to get back to SF.

Left Salem about a half hour after the eclipse at 11am driving south down US99W instead of I5 that I expected was what the majority of visitors going south would use. Anyone planning to leave immediately but not having a back roads escape plan did not do their homework. US99W was sluggish at choke points in a couple towns for about 60 miles, after that there was little traffic as I turned west on route 36 over the Coastal Range and then south down US101. Longer but without the annoying stop and go traffic on I5 and I stopped a few times along the way. By midnight I was north of Willits spending a few hours catching some sleep lest I fall asleep while driving before continuing on at dawn reaching home by 9:30am.

[cp_photo]

Unfortunately, due to practical considerations I did not manage to visit Oregon so I missed out on the most dramatic events of the day.
I did go up on the roof of my apartment building, took some 35mm photos, and generally just took in the coolness of the event although there wasn't much visible here.
It did darken to a considerable extent, and there was a change in the light. I don't really have words to describe it. Kind of like a polarizing/pink effect for 15 minutes or so.
Thankfully many well equipped people documented this event!!

[sanking]

Just brilliant Sandy!

David,

Thank you for your more than generous comment!

The experience itself was beyond description and I feel highly privileged to have had the opportunity. The sky was clear throughout the eclipse, and the moment of totality literally took my breath away. I thought I knew what to expect, but the uniqueness of total solar eclipse, which lasted for about two minutes and thirty seconds, had a primeval beauty I could not have imagined.

Finally, though I was able to anticipate, and prepare for, the interesting elliptical reflections, their duration was so short I almost missed them. Of a total eclipse time of around three hours from start to finish, the actual reflections in the image I posted only lasted around 5-7 minutes before and after the period of totality.

Sandy

[stawastawa]

... The sky was clear throughout the eclipse, and the moment of totality literally took my breath away. I thought I knew what to expect, ...
Sandy

Same here, I was completely surprised by what I saw in the sky. I don't think our bodies respond well to such a rapid change in the environment.