View Full Version : lensshades for large diameter lenses

jens peter
30-Jun-2005, 11:23
I would like to use an effective shade for the Rodenstock Sironar-S 360 mm (filter diameter 112) and the Schneider Tele Apo-Xenar 600 mm (filter diameter 105). Lenses will be used on a Phillips 8x10 with lenses in Sinar boards.

Most compendium type of shades such as the Lee do not cover these large filterdiameters. I have considered several soulutions, such as buying a professional shade made for movie cameras - such as the Chrosziel (www.chrosziel.com), or simply have a shade build (by SK. Grimes).
Many of you who use lenses with similar diameters for your 8x10 must have done some thourghts regarding this problem. I would appreciate your imput.

Michael Kadillak
30-Jun-2005, 11:53
Heliopan makes rubber lens shades that can be custom ordered. I got one that I believe was 105mm for about $80 for a 42" Red Dot Artar. They provided me with the name of a local rep that I ordered it through and it took about four weeks. SK Grimes made me an adapter flange as well.


Herb Cunningham
30-Jun-2005, 12:05
If you already have a Lee system, Lee will make you a 100mm perhaps the larger 112 as well. The trick is whether the bellows of the shade will vignette. I had a lens, a Rodenstock W 210, that took a 100mm , and the shade was no problem. From the focal lengths you mention, I suspect you would be ok getting a larger adapter made. Lee have a "wide angle" bellows shade, which will not intrude on a 150 Nikon SW on 8x10, so it would probably work for you.

You might check with Grimes instead, because my memory is that Lee got an extra $100 for the adapter.

Good luck

David A. Goldfarb
30-Jun-2005, 12:27
My latest shade trick for cameras that don't have an easy way to attach a compendium and lenses with odd filter sizes is to use three metal flags with adjustable wings, which look like they were once barndoors for a light, attached to the front standard with double-hinged clips (these came with a camera I bought recently).

Stan. Laurenson-Batten
30-Jun-2005, 13:08
The cheapest, most reliable, and efficient shade for me is in the form of a triptych made of light weight, black poly-mount board, about 18" X 6" for each of the three panels. The panels are taped with black duck tape. It does not matter how large a lens is being used, it will always be efficient as the forward distance in front of the lens can be easily calculated, or even viewed on the GGS. It can be secured with sticky velcro.

Vick Vickery
30-Jun-2005, 13:16
David's suggestion brings to mind an interesting thought...it would be easy to adapt a conventional photoflood barn-door set to work on most any view camera, thus giving you adjustable shading that could cover whatever angle is necessary to cover. You would have to remember to check for intrusion into the scene after stopping down, but it would be easy to adjust one or two doors while looking thru the lens.

Eric Leppanen
30-Jun-2005, 14:01

I need to double-check with John Adler of Lee to be sure, but I suspect the new Lee medium-wide hood might do the trick with the larger Sironar-S's. I own the 300mm Sironar-S (100mm filter size) and I have the same problem: the standard Lee hood is too small for this lens. But I understand that, even though the Lee adapter ring obstructs the outer edges of the glass, this is not in the actual image area and the only problem is with the hood itself. Hopefully the larger diameter hood will address this.

My standard Lee hood works fine with my APO Tele Xenar 800mm (I use the 105mm Lee adapter ring), and I strongly suspect it will work fine with your 600mm. The angle-of-view of these lenses is so small that a slight obstruction of the outer edge of the glass won't affect the image area.

John Cook
1-Jul-2005, 03:42
A carefully adjusted compendium can be very useful when working in a "tent" in the studio where stray light is bouncing around from all sides.

But outdoors doing daylight landscape work with modern lenses, I usually find that all the potentially "offending" light is coming from directly overhead. Thus the old trick of holding the filmholder darkslide over the lens seems both optically effective and cost efficient.

Some old lenses project a huge image circle which can dramatically reduce the negative contrast. Worse with something like a snow scene. Not all of that stray light is absorbed by the bellows. Some bounces back onto the film. For this reason, many old-timers I worked for used to prefer using a larger camera with a reducing back.

An additional solution was to prop up a large black board on a couple of lightstands in front of the camera. In the studio, a vertical 4x8 sheet of plywood on casters was used. An 8x10-ish hole was cut in the board to shoot through. The board was moved in and out until the hole's perimeter matched the edge of the film. All extraneous light was thus kept off the lens and prevented from entering the camera bellows.

Henry Carter
1-Jul-2005, 07:10
B + W makes rubber and metal lenshoods up to 105 mm diameter. They are custom made and available by mail order from Filter Connection:


I am very happy with the B + W rubber and metal hoods that I have ordered from them for all of my 4X5 lenses.


Joseph O'Neil
1-Jul-2005, 10:26
Okay, this is gonna sound weird, but for the past ten years, in all formats, my primary lens shade has been a Tilly hat. See http://www.tilley.com/

My personal favourite is the T2 - the widest brim hat they make. I do a lot of backpacking with my Super Speed graphic, and every ounce counts on a long hike. I don't want to get too encombered with gear, and my hat serves dual purpose of keeping the sun off my head and face while walking and serving as an instant lens shade for when I actually shoot.

Another thing any LF shooter can do with a wide brimmed cotton hat. When composing your scence n the ground glass, I can move my hat to the back of my head, pull the sides of the hat around my face, and voilia! Instant make shift darkcloth. But like I said, a *wide* brimmed hat, not a short brim.

One last trick / tip. This time of year, the bugs can be bad, and good insect repellent usually contians DEET, which works very good, but plays havok on my skin, causing me to break out. So, I spray the heck out of my hat (topside) with OFF. Muskol, etc, and this seems to work excellently at keeping the misquitoes and blackflies off my fae and neck.

So there you go - lens shade, dark cloth, sun screen and insect repeller, all in one piece of clothing.


John Cook
1-Jul-2005, 11:19
Joe, you're my kind of guy!