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AuditorOne
16-May-2017, 16:21
Well, I just made it back from packing my ROC Universal 8x10 on a snowy hike up in Lamoille Canyon and I am frustrated beyond belief.

The clean, purty lookin, CP Goerz 12 inch Dagor lens in a clean looking Acme No 4 Synchro Ilex shutter did not work!

Prior to the hike this morning it worked perfectly while in the safety of my warm house while I was sitting on my cushy couch. Now that I am back home, sitting on that same cushy couch, it is again working perfectly!

But...while mounted on the camera, that was sitting on a perfectly good tripod, planted firmly in the snow, overlooking a gorgeously photogenic, rushing waterfall, dropping into a magically lit rocky canyon...it refused to work.

All I wanted was one or two 1 second actuations at f/32...but nooo!! It would slowly open the shutter blades then even more slowly begin to close them. It took almost a minute for the shutter blades to finally close. Even at 1/50 or 1/150, they would open and then close slowly and agonizingly. I tried warming the lens by putting it under my parka up close to my chest. But nothing worked. After several tries I finally gave up, packed up, and headed for home.

And, of course, once back home everything worked.

I am seriously considering a trip to the trap range with the shutter, lens and shotgun.

Aarrrgghhh

EDIT - I guess I can take a picture of the couch.

peter schrager
16-May-2017, 16:41
Couch is good...shit happens for s reason
Work with what you got

morecfm
16-May-2017, 16:54
Given the circumstances, I'd have tried a couple of exposures the old fashioned way for a 1 second exposure. Open the shutter with the lens cap on, remove the lens cap then replace for the exposure. You should have been able to come close since -1 stop would have been a 1/2 second exposure and +1 stop would have been 2 seconds and realistically the estimated "shutter" time would have probably been within 3/4 to 1 1/4 seconds. At least you would have come back with something. Of course I only think of these things well past the moment it would have been needed.

David Lobato
16-May-2017, 17:03
My sympathies. My cantankerous Acme shutter with a 14 inch Kodak Commercial Ektar lens has failed like that. It would not operate more than once out in the field. I know the aggravation, especially with nice optics attached to it. My fix was getting a modern 360mm lens in a Copal 3 shutter. The KCE with Acme shutter will be used around and close to home. Btw, Lamoille Canyon is a nice place.

AuditorOne
16-May-2017, 17:05
Given the circumstances, I'd have tried a couple of exposures the old fashioned way for a 1 second exposure. Open the shutter with the lens cap on, remove the lens cap then replace for the exposure. You should have been able to come close since -1 stop would have been a 1/2 second exposure and +1 stop would have been 2 seconds and realistically the estimated "shutter" time would have probably been within 3/4 to 1 1/4 seconds. At least you would have come back with something. Of course I only think of these things well past the moment it would have been needed.

That's a terrific idea!!!

Why didn't you think of that while I was still on the mountain??

Now I'm gonna have to hike all the way back up there tomorrow and they are predicting more snow for tonight!

Besides, I already have several pictures of the couch hanging on the wall behind the couch.

AuditorOne
16-May-2017, 17:23
My sympathies. My cantankerous Acme shutter with a 14 inch Kodak Commercial Ektar lens has failed like that. It would not operate more than once out in the field. I know the aggravation, especially with nice optics attached to it. My fix was getting a modern 360mm lens in a Copal 3 shutter. The KCE with Acme shutter will be used around and close to home. Btw, Lamoille Canyon is a nice place.

Thanks.

It is absolutely stunning in Lamoille right now. I have lived in Elko for over 20 years and in Nevada for 40. There is more snow on those peaks than I can ever remember seeing. The stream coming out of the canyon is a roaring, whitewater cataract. Even the smaller stream coming out of Thomas Canyon can't be crossed unless you have a serious deathwish. There is a beautiful little decline up in Thomas Canyon where a waterfall drops in that is just a wonderful, little, pastoral scene with big trees and beautiful meadows. It certainly isn't very calm and pastoral right now.

A little over half the way up the paved road, the access in the canyon is still blocked by six foot snowdrifts. Snowmobiles only from that point on and then snowshoes or xcountry skis are an absolute requirement for getting anywhere off that main road right now.

I have a nice little 8 1/2 inch Commercial Ektar in an Acme #3 shutter that has worked out pretty well for me. But it looks like this #4 is going to be a headache.

morecfm
16-May-2017, 17:28
Be careful about not introducing shake when removing the lens cap if you can't get your shutter to operate correctly. Practice a few times before going live. Hopefully you can coax your shutter into working out there.

AuditorOne
16-May-2017, 17:40
Be careful about not introducing shake when removing the lens cap if you can't get your shutter to operate correctly. Practice a few times before going live. Hopefully you can coax your shutter into working out there.

Thanks.

I usually use my hat instead of a lens cap. I do this once in awhile with my barrel lenses but for some odd reason it never crossed my mind in this case. I guess just having the shutter and being frustrated over it not working got in the way of any clear thinking I may have had.

It goes to show how fast tunnel vision can kick in. :)

Ah well. Like Peter said, things usually happen for a reason and I doubt I ever forget to use my hat if this happens again.

Bill_1856
16-May-2017, 17:41
Look up Clyde Butcher's similar experience while making one of his most famous images "Moonrise in th swamp." It will do your soul some good.

RichSBV
16-May-2017, 21:55
All other niceties aside, I've found this to be a common problem with shutters that were "home" serviced, botched by 'professionals' or just old and neglected. Simply old oil in the workings. I've had many shutters that refused to work on cold days. And maybe to start an argumentative discussion? I fixed all mine by a good several day soaking in lighter fluid, many more days of drying out and then a good squirt of graphite powder worked in for the new lubrication. They worked flawlessly after that. Yes, there are a very few shutters that can not take the lighter fluid. Yes, you have to be careful and judicious in the application of the graphite powder. But if done right, you get a perfectly working shutter in the end. At worst, you get graphite specs on the inside surfaces of the lens which are easily wiped off once noticed. Or, send it out for a simple CLA...

Beyond that, my sympathies. I'm sure it's happened to most of us...

Paul Kinzer
16-May-2017, 22:09
I've done the lighter fluid/graphite bit, though I never soaked a shutter more than overnight. The last one took only a few minutes before it freed right up. I didn't even need the graphite. Of course, that shutter had fresh, wet oil all over both the shutter blades and aperture leaves. Thick, even! It didn't work, not because the oil was old and dry, but because it was new and thick. The seller even said in his ad 'the shutter works perfectly!' um...no.

But it does now. It's a Seiko shutter that a friend bought and sent to me for figuring out. I'm no expert shutter repairman, but that was an easy diagnosis. I've had several Seiko shutters, and never had one not work.

Leigh
16-May-2017, 22:31
The lubricant in the shutter is not appropriate for low temperatures, or is present in too large an amount.

A service tech can clean that out and replace it with a more suitable lubricant, in very small quantities.

I did that for my wife's Nikon F2 camera that she took to Antarctica. It performed flawlessly.

- Leigh

AuditorOne
16-May-2017, 22:50
I appreciate your advice. I have used the lighter fluid soak on a couple of older shutters from inexpensive folding cameras. For me it worked but it is probably a short term solution at best. I have never tried graphite so I'll have to look into trying that.

It seems these old Ilex shutters are known for this warm versus cold weather unreliability. For now I will probably just use this lens in warm weather as it seems to prefer it. After all, age should have some privilege, so I'll give the old fellow some easier tasks.

Meanwhile I do have some younger shutters that could use some exercise. The lenses in the shutters may not be Dagors but they are very good in their own right.

LabRat
16-May-2017, 23:17
There is no one "magic fix" for shutters... Each type has it's own needs, and have had a different life... (Temp/wear/usage/oxidation/storage/use conditions etc...) Shutters really have to be looked at on a case by case basis...

For those who just want to flood a shutter with lighter fluid and graphite, there are dangers there, as with the OP's Acme, the iris blades are usually paper and can be warped by solvent, and the graphite can short out the sync circuit for example... The Acme has a strong spring, so if it gets sluggish, there are parts creating resistance, usually due to gummed up old lubes, and oxidation here or there...

Please keep an old tech in business, by sending your old shutter out for a proper CLA, while they are still around... Costs much less than an auto repair, and you can count on your shutter for years to come, hot or cold, rain or shine... And might save parts that can be damaged if shutter jams or seizes up... Protect your investment...

Steve K

AuditorOne
17-May-2017, 11:03
There is no one "magic fix" for shutters... Each type has it's own needs, and have had a different life... (Temp/wear/usage/oxidation/storage/use conditions etc...) Shutters really have to be looked at on a case by case basis...

For those who just want to flood a shutter with lighter fluid and graphite, there are dangers there, as with the OP's Acme, the iris blades are usually paper and can be warped by solvent, and the graphite can short out the sync circuit for example... The Acme has a strong spring, so if it gets sluggish, there are parts creating resistance, usually due to gummed up old lubes, and oxidation here or there...

Please keep an old tech in business, by sending your old shutter out for a proper CLA, while they are still around... Costs much less than an auto repair, and you can count on your shutter for years to come, hot or cold, rain or shine... And might save parts that can be damaged if shutter jams or seizes up... Protect your investment...

Steve K

Thanks Steve. That is a good point.

Jim Noel
17-May-2017, 13:31
Good answer Rich.
A simple solution to a shutter which reacts to slowly in cold weather is to keep it under your coat until the camera is set up and ready to go. This was the advice of the old repairman who also told me there should be no lubricant at all, or at the most nothing other than graphite in a LF shutter, particularly if it is likely to be used in cold weather. Te shutters he worked o never failed me in any climate.

AuditorOne
17-May-2017, 17:49
Old shutters are so interesting. I have two other Ilex shutters that work great in all weather (knock on wood) and an old compur that is extremely reliable. This one, not so much.

Paul Kinzer
17-May-2017, 18:51
Good advice about the paper in shutters! Some old press shutters also used paper in their flash electronics, as insulators. I often buy old, beat-up shutters that are sold for parts. These are the ones I try the lighter fluid (naphtha) on. I usually try just using a bit of graphite first. It's often all that is needed. In fact, I got a Seiko shutter in the mail yesterday whose 'B' setting hung up once released. I put the least amount of graphite I could manage into the shutter right by the trip lever. It works fine now. (This was a different shutter from the one I mentioned above.)

I agree that, if possible, it's best to get work done professionally!