12X16 developing trays

[Old Jim]

I wanted to buy 11x14 developing trays from B&H but they didn't offer them by Paterson, and had the 12X16 on special. So I bought them to develop my 8X10 negatives. Alas! They work fine but you need at least 2 liters of liquid for me to feel comfortable keeping the negatives covered. I only developed 4 negatives and since this was my first time with 8X10 and using D76, I wanted to use it as a one shot process. So I wound up discarding a lot of chemical. Does anyone else have this problem or what do you do?
Thanks in advance
Jim

[faberryman]

B&H is inconsistent in how they describe the trays. Some are described by the print size and some by the actual size. A 12x16 tray is for 11x14 prints. An 8x10 tray is actually 10.25x12. You need the Paterson 8x10 trays.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40359-REG/Paterson_PTP334_Plastic_Developing_Trays.html

You could just get one 8x10 for developer and use the larger ones you have now for stop/fix/wash.

[Old Jim]

The reason I wanted 11x14 is after reading Ansel Adam's "The Negative" he says use the next size larger tray. So that is what prompted my search.
Jim

"You could just get one 8x10 for developer and use the larger ones you have now for stop/fix/wash"

Does this mean dispose of the developer and save the stop and fix?

[faberryman]

Does this mean dispose of the developer and save the stop and fix?
I reuse stop and fixer.

[Oren Grad]

Paterson is a UK company; they offer 12x16 trays because 12x16 is a standard paper size in the UK.

[Luis-F-S]

I develop in 1 gal tanks, so can't relate! L

[koraks]

Perhaps look for a flat bottomed tray and develop one sheet at a time? That way, you shouldn't need too much developer. I use a non-stick oven tray for 8x10 film myself. It's about 10x12" I think; large enough to leave a substantial margin between the edges of the film and the walls of the tray.
I find the standard ribbed processing trays virtually useless for anything but washing.

[Jim Jones]

Curved bottom trays such as the old Heath Color Canoe enable developing one sheet of film at a time with very little developer. The 8x10 Color Canoe works fine with less than 2 ounces of developer. A pre-wash is advisable. I've switched to liquid concentrated developer such as Kodak HC-110 or T-Max to permit mixing a barely sufficient amount of one-shot developer.

[Vaughn]

B&H is inconsistent in how they describe the trays. Some are described by the print size and some by the actual size. A 12x16 tray is for 11x14 prints. An 8x10 tray is actually 10.25x12. You need the Paterson 8x10 trays.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/40359-REG/Paterson_PTP334_Plastic_Developing_Trays.html

You could just get one 8x10 for developer and use the larger ones you have now for stop/fix/wash.

Those trays are 8x10 in size -- too small for 8x10 negatives, The 10.25 x 12 is the size box they come in. Just buy or find an 11x14 tray...a 10x12 will work fine, also.

[faberryman]

Those trays are 8x10 in size -- too small for 8x10 negatives, The 10.25 x 12 is the size box they come in. Just buy or find an 11x14 tray...a 10x12 will work fine, also.

Here is a photo of an 8x10 sheet of paper in a Paterson 8x10 tray. You may or may not want more room around the edges depending on your method of agitation.

164583

[Old Jim]

Here is a photo of an 8x10 sheet of paper in a Paterson 8x10 tray. You may or may not want more room around the edges depending on your method of agitation.

164583

Looks kinda like a close fit to me. If I only do single sheets it should be fine. I will probably get one and try it.
Thanks for all the comments.
Jim

[chuck461]

I've increased the dilution of my developer to give me more liquid in the trays without using more developer. Using Pyrocat, I dilute 1:1:200 instead of the recommended 1:1:100. Then increase the development time to compensate.

[David Schaller]

Here is a photo of an 8x10 sheet of paper in a Paterson 8x10 tray. You may or may not want more room around the edges depending on your method of agitation.

164583

I also use the "8x10" trays with Pyrocat and D-76 and have never had a problem.

[Willie]

Use plastic drop cloth and a 2x4. Cut the 2x4 to width and.or length. Put the 2x4 in the tray and lay the plastic drop cloth material over it. Will make the inside dimensions smaller so you use less chemistry. Having the roll of plastic drop cloth means you use it and throw it out if you want. Got a sheet 12 x30 feet for $2.00 on sale at WalMart last week.

Makes it easier to use larger trays so you don't have to keep a number of different sizes around.

[Vaughn]

Looks kinda like a close fit to me. If I only do single sheets it should be fine. I will probably get one and try it.
Thanks for all the comments.
Jim
The reason the same size tray as the negative is not recommended for developing negatives, is that there can be more agitation happening around the outer edge of the negative than the center of the negative (uneven development). A larger tray avoids this -- but as noted, good results are possible with the smaller tray -- agitation might need to be closely watched until one finds the best method.

[John Kasaian]

B and H stocks 11x14 trays by Kalt, Yankee, Richards, Arkay, Doran and Cescolite.
I don't know why they'd sell you 12x16s if you asked for 11x14s.

Alternatively, you could shop for kitty litter trays at Target or The Dollar Store (and take along a tape measure.)

[xkaes]

If the goal is to safe chemicals, the best way to go is to use tubes. These are dirt cheap on the used market, and pretty inexpensive new. For an 8x10 negative or print, you only need about 1.5 oz. of chemical. This will vary slightly by manufacturer. The more important thing is that every negative or print gets completely fresh chemicals and their is no need to try to adjust, somehow, for exhaustion. PLUS, you end up saving a lot of darroom space AND you can work with the lights on, to boot!!!

[Peter Gomena]

put a 12" piece of 1x2" pine under the back end of the tray so your solution tips toward you.

[xkaes]

If you insist on trays, you can buy a ton of them in any size, basically for the cost of shipping on EBAY, etc. You can't do much to damage a plastic tray, although you might need to clean it out with a little bleach and elbow grease. I've got trays from 5x7" to 20x24" and I basically got them all for pennies, BUT:

As I always say, "Once you try tray, you never will stray"

[Randy]

The reason the same size tray as the negative is not recommended for developing negatives, is that there can be more agitation happening around the outer edge of the negative than the center of the negative (uneven development).I never knew this - I always thought it was recommended as a way to lesson the risk of scratches (easier to shuffle thru the stack of negs).

[Thom Bennett]

I use the 12x16 trays to process 4 - 6 sheets. I think I need to lightly sand the little "buttons" on the bottom of the trays as I am getting some very consistent scratches in the same area of the negs and I think I've traced it to that. Other than that, this size tray provides plenty of room to handle 8x10.