Reversal processing

[pkr1979]

Hi all!

Did anyone do any reversal processing with any kind of BW film exposed at 400 and/or 1600?

I just got a hold of 2 120 rolls of Scala and I was really happy with the results when expsoed at those values. Sadly it was the only 2 films I had, and I'd like to get something similar with my view camera. Any information is of interest though.

Cheers
Peter

[richydicky]

Hi Peter
The only 400 film I have reversed processed is Rollei RPX400 which came out quite well but low contrast. If you look at the DR5.com website they have a comparison of all the films they reverse process. HP5 looks promising for what you are looking for. On Apug I came across a thread where someone has had success with D11 and D19 developer for HP5.

Did you process your Scala yourself, if so I'd be interested to know your 1st developer routine? I have a few rolls of 120 and some 4x5 sheets. The sheets I got quite good results from but 120 has been a bit variable, but my camera had exposure issues and the results can be sensitive to chemical freshness. I have used PhotoStudio 13 in Germany for reversal processing, very good service and results.

Richard

[Emmanuel BIGLER]

Hello from France

I have in my computer files a nice pdf document by Jens Osbahr (Germany) describing in detail various B&W reversal recipes with various films including HP5+ and Rollei IR 400 i.e. two negative films with a nominal ISO rating of 400 when they are exposed non-reversed. The document is dated August, 2010.
It should be emphasized that all processes described by Jens Osbahr use potassium permanganate K MnO4 as the bleaching agent.
In Europe, potassium dichromate K2 Cr2O7 is now banned for health & safety reasons, as well as all compounds containing Chrome VI (dichromate) ions.

Jens Osbahr's text is in English, but the original URL (cross-posted on many discussion forums since 2010) is no longer accessible
http://home.snafu.de/jens.osbahr/photography/reversal_processing/osbahr_reversal.pdf

However a copy of the document is still accessible here through webarchive
http://web.archive.org/web/20160304203937/http://home.snafu.de/jens.osbahr/photography/reversal_processing/osbahr_reversal.pdf

[Ironage]

Wow! Thanks. I had been using old recipes for processing movie films with some success but all this data is great! The formula for bleach and the fogging developer help greatly.


Sent from my iPod touch using Tapatalk

[vdonovan]

I just reversal processed some Ilford HP5 in both 8x10 and 120 formats. I used exactly the reversal processing instructions on their web site: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/20061291034093.pdf
I tested at both EI 200 and 400. The both looked great, the 200 had brighter highlights.

[WayneStevenson]

https://www.flickr.com/groups/b-w-reversal-process/discuss/72157642202798444/

[pkr1979]

Hi all! And thanks for all this brilliant feedback :-)

I have 2 HP5+ films at the dr5 lab at the moment - waiting to get them processed and sent back (one exposed at 400 and the other at 1600). I am sure I will be pleased with the results but it is a bit inconvenient being dependant on a lab that far away (I live in Oslo, Norway). Neither did I develop my Agfa Scala myself... I sent it to Studio 13 in Germany as well and was also very happy about the results and service. I would be a happy man if ADOX could start producing that film again after taking over the Agfa plant. I havent really done any development myself but as I really like positive film I might have to as no one in Oslo does BW reversal nor E-6.

Folks - thanks for all these links. The easiest seems to be to try out Ilfords instructions. Vince Donovan, As far as I can tell its in the "First Development" you consider at what ISO you shot at. And I assume that 12 minutes is for the box speed for the film? How did you adjust... or add or reduce minutes in that part taking the ISO into account?

Cheers
Peter

[Pere Casals]

Hi all!

Did anyone do any reversal processing with any kind of BW film exposed at 400 and/or 1600?

I just got a hold of 2 120 rolls of Scala and I was really happy with the results when expsoed at those values. Sadly it was the only 2 films I had, and I'd like to get something similar with my view camera. Any information is of interest though.

Cheers
Peter


I've reversed HP5+ with the foma reversal kit but using dichromate bleach instead permanganate (permanganate didn't worked at all for HP5+). TMX and TMY are also very suitable for reversal.

I tried before with small formats, becasue I want to learn to apply it to LF.

These are small format reversal results I've in Flickr (TMX, Silvermax and a failure with CMS 20 ):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/125592977@N05/21784932539/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/125592977@N05/21478354193/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/125592977@N05/24393935706/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/125592977@N05/24050911120/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/125592977@N05/21981840522/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/125592977@N05/21781489439/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/125592977@N05/21976441731/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/125592977@N05/22569910808/in/dateposted-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/125592977@N05/22995808691/in/dateposted-public/

I've a lot to do in order to optimize my reversal process, I know I've just started...

At the end I understood that there is a single way to deal with reversal: calibration.

My advice is that you perform accurate calibration in the BTZS way to tune the process, this is way more important than for conventional developer, and IMHO one can get a lot of frustating results if one skips calibration for reversal, specially important if one wants great projections as you have to nail the result. If it has to be scanned then a lot it can be solved with Photoshop.

I plan to calibrate the process that includes also a selenium toning bath, to get top density and dynamyc contrast.

If you end using Dichromate bleach thing that's a dangerous chemical, read and understand how hazardous is, it can kill you in the long term if handled wrong. After usage mix the Dichromate with used waste developer , then it will turn from orange color to dark green. In that situation is way less dangerous. Then dispose it in the proper facility.

Regards and enjoy !!!

(A good slide steals the show !!!)

[Pere Casals]

Hi all! And thanks for all this brilliant feedback :-)

I have 2 HP5+ films at the dr5 lab at the moment - waiting to get them processed and sent back (one exposed at 400 and the other at 1600). I am sure I will be pleased with the results but it is a bit inconvenient being dependant on a lab that far away (I live in Oslo, Norway). Neither did I develop my Agfa Scala myself... I sent it to Studio 13 in Germany as well and was also very happy about the results and service. I would be a happy man if ADOX could start producing that film again after taking over the Agfa plant. I havent really done any development myself but as I really like positive film I might have to as no one in Oslo does BW reversal nor E-6.

Folks - thanks for all these links. The easiest seems to be to try out Ilfords instructions. Vince Donovan, As far as I can tell its in the "First Development" you consider at what ISO you shot at. And I assume that 12 minutes is for the box speed for the film? How did you adjust... or add or reduce minutes in that part taking the ISO into account?

Cheers
Peter

Studio 13 know a lot about that.

Also DR5 in the USA http://www.dr5.com/tech.html

They say that they don't allow second development perform until full completion, so they cut it at right point. Also it looks they used a bath (selenium toning) to get higher densities.

I reiterate again: rely in calibration. Expose several on film contact copies of an Stouffer wedge and develop different times. If you are not used to it then learn how film is calibrated and how to plot a family of curves. You should have understanding and full practice of calibration to adjust your process to what you want, it's the same for reversal than for negatives. It's what you'll save a lot of work.

Regards,

Pere

PD: Pere in Peter in English, "Peter Carter" is also a Peter, all Peters like reversal ??? :)

[pkr1979]

Hehe - it seems like the Peters do :-) Pere, thanks for all that info - I quite like what you have achieved. I will admit though I am slightly reluctant to use that dichromate stuff ;-)

[Pere Casals]

Hehe - it seems like the Peters do :-) Pere, thanks for all that info - I quite like what you have achieved. I will admit though I am slightly reluctant to use that dichromate stuff ;-)

No problem if handled with necessary care. With HP5 permanganate rehalogenated what was developed and result was black. This was using the Foma reversal kit bleach. I'm to try if other permanganate formulas may work. I also don't like dichromate, but I feel able to use safely if necessary.

Don't hesitate to ask in the future if I can help, by PM or Flickr mail, I can delay answer a bit because sometimes I disconnect from forums...

[vdonovan]

Hi all! And thanks for all this brilliant feedback :-)

I have 2 HP5+ films at the dr5 lab at the moment - waiting to get them processed and sent back (one exposed at 400 and the other at 1600). I am sure I will be pleased with the results but it is a bit inconvenient being dependant on a lab that far away (I live in Oslo, Norway). Neither did I develop my Agfa Scala myself... I sent it to Studio 13 in Germany as well and was also very happy about the results and service. I would be a happy man if ADOX could start producing that film again after taking over the Agfa plant. I havent really done any development myself but as I really like positive film I might have to as no one in Oslo does BW reversal nor E-6.

Folks - thanks for all these links. The easiest seems to be to try out Ilfords instructions. Vince Donovan, As far as I can tell its in the "First Development" you consider at what ISO you shot at. And I assume that 12 minutes is for the box speed for the film? How did you adjust... or add or reduce minutes in that part taking the ISO into account?

Cheers
Peter

Peter, good question. I actually did an exposure test for the 12 minute development time. While box speed looked good, the frames that were exposed at ISO 200 were snappier in the highlights without being blown out. Later I accidentally processed some HP5 exposed at ISO 200 for 16 minutes. Those highlights were WAY blown out, but that might be a better time for ISO 400. I would certainly test it.

[Pere Casals]

Peter, good question. I actually did an exposure test for the 12 minute development time. While box speed looked good, the frames that were exposed at ISO 200 were snappier in the highlights without being blown out. Later I accidentally processed some HP5 exposed at ISO 200 for 16 minutes. Those highlights were WAY blown out, but that might be a better time for ISO 400. I would certainly test it.

Hello Vince,

I'd like to ask you what bleach formula did you use for HP5

Regards

[LabRat]

As I have posted before, the easy way is to dupe a negative with negative film... Little fuss/muss with the process, and you have a good negative to print from later... Downshoot it, or contact print it to your dupe film, and process it in a moderate higher contrast B/W film developer... Looks great!!!

Steve K

[Pere Casals]

As I have posted before, the easy way is to dupe a negative with negative film... Little fuss/muss with the process, and you have a good negative to print from later... Downshoot it, or contact print it to your dupe film, and process it in a moderate higher contrast B/W film developer... Looks great!!!

Steve K

Yes !!! This is something I've to try. This delivers a high degree of control as one is able to bring the slide to the desired point. And you have both the negative an the slide.

Anyway I consider a valuable skill to get directly the slide one wants, as cinematographers do when doing BW reversal.

So I was planning learning both ways. The way you point is very interesting, just using low ISO film for the dupe to conserve sharpness, making contact copy with emulsion sides in contact...

I feel both ways require the same: accurate BTZS calibration.

[vdonovan]

Hello Vince,

I'd like to ask you what bleach formula did you use for HP5

Regards

800ml distilled water + 47ml Sulfuric Acid (48%) + 10grams Potassium Dichromate. Top up to 1liter

[pkr1979]

No problem if handled with necessary care. With HP5 permanganate rehalogenated what was developed and result was black. This was using the Foma reversal kit bleach. I'm to try if other permanganate formulas may work. I also don't like dichromate, but I feel able to use safely if necessary.

Don't hesitate to ask in the future if I can help, by PM or Flickr mail, I can delay answer a bit because sometimes I disconnect from forums...

Will do - thanks - cheers :-)

[pkr1979]

Peter, good question. I actually did an exposure test for the 12 minute development time. While box speed looked good, the frames that were exposed at ISO 200 were snappier in the highlights without being blown out. Later I accidentally processed some HP5 exposed at ISO 200 for 16 minutes. Those highlights were WAY blown out, but that might be a better time for ISO 400. I would certainly test it.

Thanks Vince :-)

[Pere Casals]

800ml distilled water + 47ml Sulfuric Acid (48%) + 10grams Potassium Dichromate. Top up to 1liter

Thanks !