Continuous Lighting

[kcombublate]

Hi, I am new to studio photography and have recently purchased a Lowel Omni to do some still life shots. However, I am not very pleased with the Omni as the 230V bulbs are really expensive, fragile and and in general, the omni seems to have problem with arcing and should not be moved when lit. Anyone else faces the same problem?

I am looking to purchase something that can be moved when lit so that I can work on my still life better. Do you have any recommendations of continuous lighting for me? I understand that strobe might work better, but I like the versatility of continuous lighting as it allow me to work in both video and photography.

I am open to fluorescent light too, but from what I understand it is harder to cast hard light as the multiple bulbs are used and are in general of lower wattage. I've heard that the DP is much more rugged and could be moved when lit, unlike the omni and pro-light. So far, I have been pretty disappointed with Lowel products... Help!!

[Christopher Barrett]

That's interesting. I used Omnis for years, moved them around when lit and didn't lose bulbs that fast. I did notice, however, when we were shooting in the UK and had to switch to 220 or 230v bulbs, that they would blow much faster. It probably has more to do with the bulbs you're getting than the Omni itself. If you really want a hard light, I'd suggest trying different bulb manufacturers before giving up on it. The DP isn't really any more rugged, just bigger.

HTH,
CB

[neil poulsen]

I have a set of Lowel DP lights that I occasionally use for EBay, etc. I recall that bulbs could be purchased in a couple of different color temperatures. It was something like 2800/3000, or possibly 3000/3200? Regardless, those in the higher color temperature had dramatically improved expected lifetimes, so I purchased those. Over the years, I've rarely had blown bulbs. They just keep going.

I have a friend who uses Omnies for architecture, and I think that his bulbs blow more frequently, maybe in part, because of those little tiny bulbs. They're not very big. Pursuing this thought, I would recommend the DP's for studio work versus the Omnies. The bulbs are bigger and brighter, up to 1000w being available. The focusing mechanism is also much improved over the Omnies.

Because of their size, Omnies are good for location. In the studio, I think that one's better off with DP's. As a caution, I wouldn't use either without their protective screens. Bulbs can burst, and that can be dangerous. All the more reason for DP's given that their brighter.

[Peter De Smidt]

If I were buying new continuous lights, I'd give some of the better LEDs a serious look.

[LabRat]

Depends what you are shooting, how much light you need, color or B/W, etc... If you are using them for tabletop sets, you don't need too much light as you can just expose longer, and it's nice to not have too much heat produced... For small sets, you can use a CFL or LED lights in cheap reflectors and get an excellent light for little money... You might have to try different ones to get the color balance you want... Brush up on bellows factors/reciprocity factors, and you can use an enlarging timer for the lower wattage lights...

The Lowell light's lamps are somewhat sturdy, but don't handle the bulbs with bare hands, as the oils in your fingerprints will shorten lamp life, clean the sockets with lighter fluid and a toothpick because dirty contacts will heat excessively and can pulse the current to the lamp, and don't buy Chinese lamps, but see if you can find GE made in Hungary lamps... (I have 2 different Lowell sets that I use, but the same lamps used for years, but I have 120v lamps) You should be able to move them around a little without failure...

Steve K

[Jim Noel]

I don't know where you are located, but if you have an Orchard Supply Hardware nearby go there and get some 1000 lumen, daylight white dimmable LED reflector floods at just under $10 each. You wil need to assemble an extension with a dimmer. All parts are available at any good hardware store. For under $50 you canhave a great set of lights which are as bright as the Lowell Totes, immensely cooler and may never need to be replaced. The white bulbs are good for B&W or color.

[Leszek Vogt]

If I were buying new continuous lights, I'd give some of the better LEDs a serious look.

+1. There are units that are reasonable in cost and v. expensive + plenty in between....most would dim and you can also tweak, as you wish, the Kelvin degrees .

Les

[kcombublate]

That's interesting. I used Omnis for years, moved them around when lit and didn't lose bulbs that fast. I did notice, however, when we were shooting in the UK and had to switch to 220 or 230v bulbs, that they would blow much faster. It probably has more to do with the bulbs you're getting than the Omni itself. If you really want a hard light, I'd suggest trying different bulb manufacturers before giving up on it. The DP isn't really any more rugged, just bigger.

HTH,
CB

Hey, I am indeed using a 230V, specifically the Ushio JCD Lamp (300W/230V). Sad, it lasted last then an hour during my first use, wasting close roc 30usd.

Do you have any recommendations on where to purchase bulbs?

[kcombublate]

I have a set of Lowel DP lights that I occasionally use for EBay, etc. I recall that bulbs could be purchased in a couple of different color temperatures. It was something like 2800/3000, or possibly 3000/3200? Regardless, those in the higher color temperature had dramatically improved expected lifetimes, so I purchased those. Over the years, I've rarely had blown bulbs. They just keep going.

I have a friend who uses Omnies for architecture, and I think that his bulbs blow more frequently, maybe in part, because of those little tiny bulbs. They're not very big. Pursuing this thought, I would recommend the DP's for studio work versus the Omnies. The bulbs are bigger and brighter, up to 1000w being available. The focusing mechanism is also much improved over the Omnies.

Because of their size, Omnies are good for location. In the studio, I think that one's better off with DP's. As a caution, I wouldn't use either without their protective screens. Bulbs can burst, and that can be dangerous. All the more reason for DP's given that their brighter.

Hey, thanks for the reply. Do you use the 120V or 230V bulbs? Where do you purchase your bulbs, any brand recommendations?

[kcombublate]

+1. There are units that are reasonable in cost and v. expensive + plenty in between....most would dim and you can also tweak, as you wish, the Kelvin degrees .

Les

I would definitely consider LED. Any recommendations in terms of affordability, and lights to use for still life photography (hard lights, Long shadows, etc.)?

[Leszek Vogt]

I went with couple of lights that go for $180 each + one unit that's battery operated, which I can use as a "hair light" or light things up (in a sweep) in the field. Just go to B&H and you can camp there for some time....there is 19 pages of video lights (most are LED's) and determine to the size and output that you desire. The best part is that they produce v. little heat.

If I want to blitz things out, I have a (omni directional) movie light from the 70's (650W)....you have to squint when you are looking away from it. Good luck.

Les

[neil poulsen]

Hey, thanks for the reply. Do you use the 120V or 230V bulbs? Where do you purchase your bulbs, any brand recommendations?

We're on 120v system.

[AFSmithphoto]

Hey, I am indeed using a 230V, specifically the Ushio JCD Lamp (300W/230V). Sad, it lasted last then an hour during my first use, wasting close roc 30usd.

Do you have any recommendations on where to purchase bulbs?


That is a terrible lamp life! You should be seeing quite a bit more than that. Did you touch the envelope (glass) while installing the lamp with your bare hands? If so, the oils on your skin can cause the envelope to heat unevenly and fail much sooner than it otherwise would.

I have an omni and there just isn't room to not touch the glass when installing, so I would either wear clean gloves when installing the lamp, or wipe it down with an alcohol wipe after installing it. That should help out.

If you did all that or DIDN'T touch the glass I would as for a return as that sounds like a defective lamp.

[MAubrey]

I would definitely consider LED. Any recommendations in terms of affordability, and lights to use for still life photography (hard lights, Long shadows, etc.)?

Depending on your budget, this video might be helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AcBb-MInwBc&t=295s

[John Kasaian]

Mole Richardson. Go big or go home LOL!
163144
But old Sol and mirrors won't trip your circuit breakers, which is where I'm at now (along with a Mole Richardson 200w Midget)
I traded off a Photoflex outfit---two large soft boxes and a silver /gold reflector
What the heck was I thinking?

[LabRat]

Mole Richardson. Go big or go home LOL!
163144
But old Sol and mirrors won't trip your circuit breakers, which is where I'm at now (along with a Mole Richardson 200w Midget)
I traded off a Photoflex outfit---two large soft boxes and a silver /gold reflector
What the heck was I thinking?

Well, that would turn a male model nude shoot into a weenie roast!!!! :-&

Steve K

[SergeiR]

And other times it serves as a bat signal..

But as much as i like working with stobes - i keep waiting for affordable fresnel lights with LED to arrive.. (650W with tungstens now about 90$.. )

[Leszek Vogt]

Haven't checked lately, but I would bet that the 650W bulb (Osram ?) would cost more than my light.

But, you can get creative and slap 18,000W HMI outside the window....and even at night you'll get gorgeous "daylight". Then again, yer household elect system might fry crispy attempting to power this brute.

Les

[kaif]

Have been using Nanguang LED fresnels for a short while now, and am very happy with them. They come in various sizes (30, 60, 100, 200W) and are called CN-30F etc... Reasons I went for them are their good colour rendering (CRI 95) and adaptability: the Fresnel lenses can be removed and replaced with Bowens adapters to use standard reflectors, soft boxes etc. (at least on the 30 and 60W - not sure about the other sizes.)

There are cheaper alternatives I think, but the Nanguangs are fanless, so you don't get the annoying humming. You can also get a fairly cheap remote control for remote dimming, which helps if they are up on taller stands.

In general, power was another reason for me to go for LED, since you can easily bring three or four of these units on a location, without worrying about taking out your host's fuses of course.