Weston "Euro" meter

[Bill_1856]

While the old Weston Master exposure meters always had a great reputation for reliability, my "Euro" doesn't. I bought it new (long time ago and in a Galaxy far, far away) and within a year it was unreliable. A couple of years ago it was sent to Quality and came back perfect, but now is way off again. My real question is: do I have a stinker, or do the Euro models have a bad reputation. Do I send this one back to Quality again, or buy a used III or IV still working after all these years?

[John Cook]

I used a Weston Master V (purchased in that very same Galaxy) for years with no problems. Still have two nice shiny ones (somewhere in the studio). It is, I believe, essentially the same as the present Euro model.

My impression was that the only thing (other than dropping out of a helicopter) that could go wrong with those was that the seal on the silicon photo cell would begin to leak. When that happened, it meant a very costly cell replacement was the only remedy.

Dumb question: Have you tried zeroing the needle with the tiny screw on the back?

Here is a useful website, an interesting history of all Weston meters, with some good links:

http://www.westonmeter.org.uk/

One of those links, at the bottom of the “Company” menu page, is the website of Megatron, the company who is supposed to be still producing these meters. Their e-mail address is there also.

In my experience, Weston’s seven-stop lighting system, as displayed on the meter dial, is far superior to Adam’s Zone Thingy. (Wash my mouth out with soap!)

[Bill_1856]

Thanks, John. You mentioned a silicon meter cell. Mine has an old-fashioned Selenium cell. Are we talking about the same instrument?

[ronald moravec]

He just misspoke. Selenium cells die after 10/20 years. Keep away from humidity and light when not in use.

[John Cook]

Bill, Ronald is quite correct. It is indeed selenium. The Catch 22 is being old enough to remember these meters without being too old to remember them correctly.

[Frank Petronio]

I had a new one from Megotron during a retro Leica phase. The new ones are excellent too.

[Emmanuel BIGLER]

I do not know wheter this personnal note may help the community, but I've been using a Weston Euro Master made in East Kilbride, Scotland since 1982 with no problem at all. At the beginnig I was very careful to always let the exposure meter with the needle freed as mentioned in the user's manual. I graduated as a student in Physics at a time when moving-mirror galvanometers where still in use and had to be locked before being re-located from one room to another. After that, analog volt- and am-meters became more sturdy and were soon replaced by 100% digital stuff ;-);-) but I did not forget the old story when I bought my Weston !!

Since, years after years, I never noticed anothing wrong with my Weston Euro, I became gradually lazy with this question and now I have no idea wheter my Weston has the needle locked or unlocked 'at rest'.

The only thing which is a bit annoying is the locking button itslef, it is made of plastic and it is a current "disease" of weston meters that the locking button gradualy wears out and looses the slot required for unlocking the needle. An real improvement would be to replace this "weak" plastic push/turn button by something metallic. Having it replaced in combination with a check-up and re-calibration once every 30 years is not a big deal however and doing so you re-start "fresh" for 1/3 of a century at least ;-);-)

[Scott Sharp]

I have a Weston Euro-Master II and I love it. I bought it from Mr. Cad in England several years ago and have used it with great results ever since. I was curious Emmanuel what you meant by the needle locked or unlocked at rest. Does it matter which way you store the meter with the needle free to move or locked in position? It would be good to know for the longevity of the meter. Older Weston meters had no lock button from the Master III on down.

[John Cook]

Scott, the movement to which the needle is attached is a precise and delicate electrical instrument, like a fine Swiss watch, subject to damage from external shock in handling.

As with all professional volt-ohm electrical meters I have used in electronics repair, the meter movement can be locked when not in use to prevent the needle bouncing around when in transit. If you are careful and don't jar the meter, this is not necessary.

Also, a lockable needle can be useful if you are reading something in a position where you can't see the dial to read it.

[Emmanuel BIGLER]

Sorry if I was not very clear.
The official users' manual for my Weston Euro Master states that if the meter has to be stored quietly on a shelf for a long period of time, the needle should be preferably unlocked, probably because it is better to the delicate system to stay free "at rest" when not in use for a long time with no foreseeable shock.
For normal use, when carrying the meter (exposed to various shocks) you should keep it locked like old needle instruments that had to be locked before being moved from one place to another. Of course you un-lock the needle temporarily when taking a meter reading. Locking the needle is very convenient when you use the incident light method with the Invercone or when selecting areas in reflected metering.

I became lazy in the sense that I now leave the meter locked all the time like most Weston users probably do.
At the beginning I had prepared a small cardboard warning sign written "meter is unlocked ; lock it before use ; re-unlock after use". I used to leave the cardboard warning sign on the shelf and unlocked the meter when coming back home.

[d.s.]

I have two master V meters. One I bought back in 1973 and the other I bought on E-prey for $26.00 (new old stock in the box). The first meter, I've used over the years and was starting to get off in it's readings. I used to leave it in the unlocked position, but stopped doing that because I figured that when the case is closed that the case was pressing in on the button anyway and was holding it unlocked. (kinda like the refridge light going out when the door is closed.... no way to really check that). I had hoped that the second meter would be good, but the cell in it was weaker than the one I already had. So, I sent them both to Q.L.M. with instructions to replace the cells, check the needle balance and calibrate them to both read the same. I got them back on monday and they are perfect! My neighbors think I'm crazy, walking around metering everything twice. The cost per meter was $66.00 ea. I think that is a good price to pay for a quality built meter.

dee

[John Cook]

Bill and Dee:

For those who have never had the pleasure of having a meter repaired correctly, can you share the address of Q.L.M.?

Muchas Whatsis.

[d.s.]

Quality Light Metric,
7095 Hollywood Blvd.,
Hollywood, Calif.,
90028

Phone.. 323-467-2265

dee

[John Cook]

Thank you, kindly, Dee.

[Bob hawley]

I stumbled on this site whilst trawling about exposuire meters, I have been lecturing on photography for over 40 years now, these days I use a Minolta spot meter, but I went out to my shed and dragged out my old beloved Weston V meter - which I have neglected for at least 15 years, opened the flaps on the case and took a reading....absolutely perfect!! It works as good as ever. I "cut my teeth" on Weston meters of varying models and remember with deep reverence as one of the very few devices in my life that never let me down. By the way, you learned more about photographic exposure by using the weston than you will learn by using today's meters. The cell by the way was a selinium cell and was termed "Photovoltaic"....a solar cell....Bob

[cyberman1946]

This is my first post. Back in 1965 I had a Weston Master V meter which was subsequently acquired by some unknown soul. It was a good meter of metal construction but I didn't have it long enough to prove it's mettle. I would like to get (at long last) another Weston Master and wonder what model would be a good meter, what issues concern Westons, and whatever else that come to mind about them. I am familiar with the Sekonic L28C2 selenium meter so I know a little bit about the type but can hardly remember much about my purloined Master V. Would a Master VI be better? Why or not? Noticed that the invercone of the V is now a large cone on the VI, but what about the structural differences. I liked that metal construction and the large dials (easy to read). I use these meters mostly outdoors ("in plein air") for incident readings. Any ideas from the old hands? ...is this meter an ecco drive?