Tray development and Pyrocat

[chris_4622]

When developing 5x7 film I use tubes and Pyrocat HD 2:2:100.

For Whole Plate film I have to use tray development. I've been using the same ratios of A and B and water. I would like to know what ratios others are using for tray development and Pyrocat. I always thought it was designed for rotary processing and I'm just trying to check my methods to see if they are sound. Also how much extra time is added for tray processing vs. rotary?

thanks,
chris

[Richard Wasserman]

I use Pyrocat HD 1:1:100 in a slosher, does that count? It works great. I'd start by adding about 15% to your rotary times, but you'll need to play with that, depends on your technique and how you agitate.

[Ken Lee]

You might find this web site helpful: http://www.pyrocat-hd.com

[windij]

Chris, I develop with 2:2:100 Pyrocat HD in both trays and BTZS tubes. When I tray develop I agitate continually for the first two minutes and then once every minute for 10 seconds. I find that I need to add about 20% developing time compared to rotary.

[koraks]

I use 1:1:150 for xray film. Works quite alright, although the developer gets tired pretty quickly with continuous agitation (which is the only way I manage to get somewhat even development). I consider switching to 1:1:100 with a shorter development time. With normal films I use 1:1:100, but in tanks. I see no need to go higher (although I sometimes boost the activator by 20%) even when developing negs for Van Dyke brown printing.

[jp]

I use 1:1:100 in a tray for 8x10 processing. Works fine. Just like the tank for 4x5, except it's dark. Doesn't last that long; I'd suggest tossing it after 30 minutes.

[Willie]

2:2:100 in a tray with brush development, one at a time. A tray of much warmer mixed Pyrocat HD is above it in case I need to pop things a touch. Green safelight to check on development. One of these days I'll have to get the infrared goggle setup.

[Peter Lewin]

1:1:100 tray with shuffle agitation for 4x5. Works the same as PMK, fractionally longer times.

[chris_4622]

Thanks for all the responses.
I develop 6-8 sheets at a time continually shuffling slowly, about 5 seconds between sheets. My normal time is 10 minutes at 72 degrees. Ken I'll check out that site to try to understand the relationship between the different mixing ratios. It looks like the old saw about more ways to skin a cat is true.

[Steve Sherman]

2:2:100 in a tray with brush development, one at a time. A tray of much warmer mixed Pyrocat HD is above it in case I need to pop things a touch. Green safelight to check on development. One of these days I'll have to get the infrared goggle setup.

Hello Willie, when I was using PMK (green stain) 15 years ago I used a Dark Green safelight to develop by inspection. I switched to Pyrocat HD (amber stain) exclusively about 13 years ago and in doing so found the Pyrocat negs quite difficult to gauge with the green safelight. Sandy King suggested to me that I switch to an Amber safelight, a # OC. I did so and the difference in being able to evaluate Pyrocat HD negs is considerably superior to PMK and the Green safelight.

Just offering an alternative

[Ken Lee]

You might find this web site helpful: http://www.pyrocat-hd.com

Oops - wrong link. Try this page: Suggested Development Times (http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/html/times.html)

"For developing in tray with shuffle agitation, or in tanks with agitation every 30-60 seconds, increase time of development by about 15%."

[John Layton]

My current scenario for processing (5x7) LF sheets in pyrocat involves shuffling six films through a foto-flo annointed (helps prevent scratching) pre-soak for three minutes - then transferring all individually to six separate 5x7 trays (each w/10 oz developer) placed into one 20x24 tray - which basically allows for "one film - one tray" processing, and gives much better control of actual agitation times - then transfer to one (shuffle) tray of very diluted stop bath, then plain water (minimizing any acid carryover to fix), then tf4 fixer, prior to six to eight changes of plain water over 20min for a wash, then final rinse w/foto-flo prior to hanging in a drying cabinet.

I need to say at this point that devising a way to do the developer step in individual trays has really made a great difference in terms of control and consistency of results - and has definitely been worth the hassle!