Studio and Still Life Question

[IanBarber]

I am trying to get my head around using a flash head for still life.

The head I have is a 200w/second with variable output.

Scenario:
I have set up a still life and using just the modelling lamp in the flash head and some small bounce cards, I have found the lighting which I like, quite moody and lowkey.

The part I am struggling with is knowing what power setting to use to reproduce what I am seeing with the modelling lamp.

Am I on the wrong track here, should I be just using the modelling lamp as the light source and forget about the flash ?

The reason wanting to use the flash was to stop me wandering into reciprocity and also prevent image movement through a long exposure.

[Mrportr8]

The quality of light you see with the modeling lamp will be the same as with the flash. The only difference would be the exposure. Do you have a flash meter?

[IanBarber]

The quality of light you see with the modeling lamp will be the same as with the flash. The only difference would be the exposure. Do you have a flash meter?

Yes, I have a Sekonic L758 D Light meter

[RSalles]

Ian,

First, take an attentive look to your Light Meter's manual.

Cheers,

Renato

[Ari]

The quality of light you see with the modeling lamp will be the same as with the flash. The only difference would be the exposure. Do you have a flash meter?

I beg to disagree, with respect.
The light cast by the incandescent bulb is softer, generally has less contrast and can be used with a good degree of precision.
And what you see is what you will get.
Flash is harsher-looking, spreads everywhere and is harder to control as well as predict. That's why some kind of preview is usually needed (digital camera, Polaroid, etc).
I think a tungsten bulb is a good place to start when experimenting with a still-life; it can give a beautiful light, if other precautions are taken (colour temp, contrast, etc).

[Winger]

FWIW, I frequently do still life and flower shots with just the modeling light. If it's giving you enough light for an exposure, why not? And I agree with Ari about the harsh-ness of the flash. If I use the flash, I'm more likely to stick the softbox on or something else to modify the light.

[Mrportr8]

I beg to disagree, with respect.
The light cast by the incandescent bulb is softer, generally has less contrast and can be used with a good degree of precision.
And what you see is what you will get.
Flash is harsher-looking, spreads everywhere and is harder to control as well as predict. That's why some kind of preview is usually needed (digital camera, Polaroid, etc).
I think a tungsten bulb is a good place to start when experimenting with a still-life; it can give a beautiful light, if other precautions are taken (colour temp, contrast, etc).

If you are using light modification, umbrella, soft box etc. then it makes no difference the type of modeling lamp. If using direct strobe then there is a slight difference but not enough to worry about. Light ratios should be measured with the strobe light and a flash meter. If you are getting different results then you're doing something wrong.

[IanBarber]

FWIW, I frequently do still life and flower shots with just the modeling light. If it's giving you enough light for an exposure, why not? And I agree with Ari about the harsh-ness of the flash. If I use the flash, I'm more likely to stick the softbox on or something else to modify the light.

When you use flash with a softbox or other modifier, with film, how do you know what power level to use to give you the look your after

[locutus]

Traditionally, Polaroid proofs. but in all honesty i try the lightning using a digital camera

[Mrportr8]

When you use flash with a softbox or other modifier, with film, how do you know what power level to use to give you the look your after

Flashmeter and a good understanding of light ratios.

[Winger]

When you use flash with a softbox or other modifier, with film, how do you know what power level to use to give you the look your after

My incident light meter is also a flash meter. It at least gives me the exposure and I can test in bright and shadow areas to see how different they are. I also do test shots with my dSLR on occasion (though not always). Keep track of what you do and how everything is set and then it'll be easier next time.

[cowanw]

I suspect part of the difficulty is that your eyes will accommodate to the different levels of light cast in bright and shadow of your modeling lights such that, you may think the shadows are open enough at a particular contrast level with modeling lights, and then, boom, the film does not accommodate to the shadows as well as your eyes.
Perhaps the modeling lights look softer because of this and actually illuminate film the same as flash. keeping in mind that the two are not the same in all physical respects and cannot be precisely the same.
Figure the lighting you like and take meter measurements of the ratios of key to fill to camera etc.
Look at your prints and note the combinations of contrast that you like.
Exposure is a separate issue.

[Michael E]

When you use flash with a softbox or other modifier, with film, how do you know what power level to use to give you the look your after

Use a light meter. Just like you would when you are outside in the sunlight. With a tiny 200 W/s strobe, you will probably have to turn it to full power and find out the f-stop you are are able to achieve.

[aluncrockford]

[QUOTE=IanBarber;1366897]I am trying to get my head around using a flash head for still life.

The head I have is a 200w/second with variable output.

The modeling bulb is designed to give an approximation of the flash output, it is in the main never intended to be used as the primary output source, if you want continuous light there are far better options. So to address your question, set up your picture using the modeling bulb, then take a flash meter reading by either placing a greycard in the set and measuring the light reflected back or put a invercone on the meter , go into the set, point your meter at the lens and take a reading, this will give you your basic settings, whilst not trying to over complicate, look at your set with a viewing glass or more cost effectively squint, and check to see if anything is going too dark,if it is ,and that is not an effect you are trying to achieve you can resolve this in a number of ways but the simplest is to diffuse your lighting to reduce the lighting ratio. If you find that a single flash is not giving you enough light output then multi flash until you reach the desired f stop, this should be done with the shutter open, if needed just put a card in front of the lens between flashes and remember to switch the modeling lights off.
I digress, back to the meter reading, once you have a reading shoot 1 frame as the meter then bracket two stops up and down, as this is a test putting a grey card and a note of the frame exposure in the shot is no bad thing, then shoot a frame with your modeling light set up , metering in exactly the same way you will have a set of images that will enable you to compare the two options and the with that information you should be able to assess the comparison between the two light sources.

Hope this helps