Chamonix Hs-1 Review

[austin granger]

Part I

Hello all.

I recently bought a Chamonix Hs-1 and thought I'd offer my initial impressions of it. First off, I'd like to say that although it's true that I've used a number of view cameras over the years, I am by no means an expert on their design, or even their function for that matter. Ask me to explain the Scheimpflug Principle or Diffraction Limits and all you'll get is a glazed look and a lot of hemming and hawing. Generally, I know enough to make the pictures I want to make, but just barely. So with that caveat out of the way, on to the review!

WHAT IS IT?

The Hs-1 is one of two new, non-folding Chamonix 4x5 cameras. There is also an H-1, which is differentiated from the Hs-1 by having longer bellows and asymmetric tilt in the rear, and a little extra weight. So you can think of the Hs-1 as the simpler, stripped down model and the H-1 as the deluxe model. As of this writing, the Hs-1 sells for $1,015 plus $80 shipping, while the H-1 is $1,105 plus $80 shipping.

WHY BUY IT?

Obviously, this gets into subjective territory, but I can tell you that in my case, I was looking for a camera that was smaller and lighter than my Deardorff Special. I'm very fond of the Deardorff, but at seven pounds, it's not a great joy to carry on long hikes. If you're looking for a charismatic camera that can shoot both 5x7 and 4x5, and also use very long lenses, a Deardorff Special is a fantastic option. If those criteria don't apply-if you don't use long lenses, or if you shoot only 4x5-then in my opinion it's probably overkill. This was my thinking anyway.

As for why I went with the Chamonix, well, I owned a Chamonix 4x5 F1 for a time, and was very impressed by the build quality and capabilities of that camera. However, I never really gelled with it's basic design, specifically with the screwing and unscrewing of the front standard from the bed. I know it sounds like a silly thing, but something about the procedure just bugged me, especially when the front standard was left dangling by the bellows as if the camera had suffered a gruesome injury. Yes, I'm odd, and I know its a fine camera, I just couldn't get used to it. As I mentioned though, the F1 did make me confident of the quality of Chamonix cameras, and so when the Hs-1 and H-1 came along, I thought they might be just what I was looking for.

I picked the Hs-1 over the fancier H-1 because I only ever use two lenses, a standard 180mm and a semi-wide 120mm, and I very rarely do ultra close-ups, so I felt like I didn't need the extra bellows of the H-1. Also, I didn't feel the need for the asymmetric tilt of the H-1. It's a neat feature, but I've been doing things the "regular" way for so long, it'd be hard to change now. Finally, I liked the fact that the Hs-1 is a little lighter than the H-1 (3.97 pounds/1800 gms vs. 4.37 pounds/1980gms).

*One thing to note here is that Chamonix states on their website that they're developing additional backs for the H-1 (5x7, 4x10) so that might be something to consider. I'm not sure why these backs wouldn't work on the Hs-1 as well, but it is not mentioned on the website, so if this is of interest to you, you might send an inquiry to Chamonix to get to the bottom of it.

Finally, I've long liked the idea of a non-folding view camera. While I realize that unfolding a view camera and sticking a lens on it is not a difficult or time-consuming procedure, in my experience, even with view camera work, even a second matters. I cannot count the number of times I've seen some amazing thing and by the time I set up my camera, it was gone. And I'm fast! Also, I'm not a big fan of carrying my camera around on a tripod, at least not for long distances. Partly this is because I find I'm often on unstable terrain, and also because I am not particularly graceful by nature, and so I worry about tripping and/or dropping the camera. Which I have done. My general way of working is to explore, find a picture, set up the camera, make or not make the picture, and then put the camera away and move on. You can imagine how, if you did this routine twenty times in a row, the idea of a non-folding camera might start to appeal to you. Also, I find that I use my standard lens probably 80% of the time, so with a non-folder, I can just leave the lens on, removing that step as well.

INITIAL IMPRESSIONS

If you've had the chance to handle a Chamonix, you know that they are very well made cameras. The Hs-1 is no different. It is made of teak, aluminum and carbon fiber. The wood is well finished, and quite smooth to the touch. It reminds me vaguely of Ikea furniture, which might sound like an insult, but I don't really mean it to be. Let's say that it's attractive in an understated, clean sort of way. I'm no woodworker, but the joins seem very well done to me, all very precise and without any visible glue.

It's light! If you are used to other Chamonix cameras (N series, F1), or have used a Tachihara or similar, you will not be impressed by this exclamation. In fact, the Hs-1 is about a half a pound heavier than an N-1. However, if you're like me, coming from a Deardorff, or perhaps another, larger format camera, man, this thing is so light! And so tiny!

IN USE

After using the camera for a couple of months now, I can tell you that I'm enjoying the set-up procedure very much. Or lack of set-up procedure, because there's not much to it. Set-up goes as follows: take off backpack, remove camera from backpack, stick on tripod, take off lens cap, go! Yes, there's a little bit more to it than that, but really, one could, if necessary, take a picture with this camera in a matter of five seconds. Last weekend I was out on the Oregon coast and weather-wise, it was a wild sort of day, with sudden rain squalls and fast moving clouds. The camera really shone in these conditions. More than once I confidently photographed with a rain squall bearing down on me, knowing that I would be able to shove the camera back in my backpack with a flick of the quick release. Conversely, there was a moment where I saw a cloud quickly drifting over an abandoned military bunker (I posted the picture in the "Old Things" thread yesterday) and I was able to set up the camera in moments to capture it. Yes!

MOVEMENTS

Yes, the usual ones: front rise/fall/shift/tilt/swing. Rear tilt, swing, rise and shift. On their website, Chamonix says there's no rear shift, but I have the camera right here and I'm telling you that I'm rear-shifting like crazy. In all, the movements are most likely more than you'll ever need.

One thing that I really appreciate is that there are separate knobs for front rise/fall and tilt. My Deardorff doesn't have that separation, and while you can get to the same place either way, with the Chamonix it is easier. Speaking of knobs, with one exception (see below), I'm a big fan of the Chamonix knobs. They are large and easily found, which is no small thing if you're working in rough conditions or with gloves on. There are zero detents with an audible click for both front and rear tilt which is another thing I appreciate.

There are easily visible dots to align front rise and front shift, as well as rear shift. Zeroing the swings is a simple matter of bringing the standards even with the bed if that makes sense. Everything is very smooth and easy. There are also easily visible index marks front and rear to keep track of shifts if you're into that.

FOCUSING

Despite what Chamonix says on their website (they could use a copy-editor), the Hs-1 does not use the worm-screw mechanism like the N-1 or F1. It focuses in the "traditional" way, much like a Deardorff or Tachihara or any number of other view cameras. Well, mostly...
Here is where we run into undoubtedly my biggest issue with the Hs-1. It's not a deal-breaker, but it's something that's taken some getting used to. On my Deadorff, one focuses with the right-hand knob and then locks down the focus with the left-hand knob. These two knobs operate completely independently of each other. This is not the case on the Chamonix. If one attempts to lock the focus with the left-hand knob without applying opposite and equal pressure on the right-hand knob, it will not lock. At all. It might help to here imagine wringing out a sponge with both hands. This is roughly the motion one uses to lock the focus on the Chamonix. With all due respect to Josef Sudek, the Hs-1 is not a camera for a one-armed photographer! And even for a two armed photographer, it presents some challenges. Namely the loupe challenge. My traditional way of focusing (again with the Deardorff) is as follows: with my left hand holding the loupe against the ground glass, I focus with my right hand. Once focus is achieved, I let go of the loupe and lock the focus with my left hand. Then I check the focus and tweak slightly if necessary. This procedure does not quite work with the Chamonix, as you need both hands to achieve initial focus lock. Luckily, there are ways around this challenge that don't involve growing a third loupe-holding hand from your forehead. This is my Hs-1 technique: find rough focus using the two-handed, sponge-wringing method, tightening down the focus to the point that it's snug, but not completely locked. Then, while holding the loupe with my left hand, I adjust focus if necessarily. Basically, the aim is to "lock" the focus on the Hs-1 enough that it won't creep, but will allow some adjustment. I hope this all makes sense.

The Hs-1 has three extensions, front, rear, and then an extra extension in the front. This extra extension is controlled by a small horizontal wheel located on the bed (see picture for clarification). I hate to sound like a wimp here, but the ribs on this wheel are sharp and unpleasant to the touch. This is a minor complaint. It's really not that bad, and in any case, I've found in practice that I've yet to use the extra extension. Bear in mind though that my longest lens is a 180. If you were using a longer lens, or did a lot of close-up work, you might find you have to use the last extension more than I do, and the sharpness of the wheel ridges might bother you more. Until you developed finger calluses.

The fresnel lens is very nice. In the past, I haven't really been too fond of fresnels, as I feel like the focus can seem a little "mushy," without the "pop" that I like. However, I think this impression was in large part due to the fact that I was using a 90mm f/9 lens. Both my lenses are now f/5.6 lenses, and they pop into focus just fine, even with the fresnel. The glass is gridded with 1/2" squares, as well as marks for medium format films from 6x4.5 to 6x12.

ANOTHER COMPLAINT

Yes, I'm very whiny today. The design of the Hs-1 is such that using a dark cloth presents a challenge. It's not insurmountable by any means, but I thought it was worth mentioning. If you look at a picture of the back of the Chamonix, and then imagine putting a dark cloth around it (I use the BTZS tube type), you'll see there is a bit of a problem in that the dark cloth can't really be put around the back proper, because there isn't enough of a "ledge" for it to gain purchase (like say on a Deardorff). Of course, you can instead go around the entire back (including the bed), but then you have a large gap between the back and the bed where light can stream in. My solution, which cost about two bucks and took about five minutes, is to use a removable piece of dark fabric, affixed with velcro strips, that hangs like a curtain to block this "window." It is a crude but effective fix. I'm sure most of you could come up with something more elegant.

Please see below for Part II

[austin granger]

Part II

BELLOWS

The Hs-1 bellows are the usual Chamonix "universal" type, with the pleats ending about 3/4 of the way toward the front and and turning into more of a bag bellows type. They are very pliable. As I mentioned, my widest lens is a 120, but I'm sure much wider lenses wouldn't be a problem at all. Actually, I think this camera would shine with very wide lenses.

LEVELS

Yes! There are four levels, three built in and one accessory one mounted in a hot shoe on the front standard. They seem pretty accurate to me, at least accurate enough to get close to level quickly.

STRAP

Yes again, there's a strap. It's kind of a fancy looking one, which I would describe as braided. It's mounted at the front of the rear standard, which wouldn't have been my first choice, but then again, if it was center-mounted, it would have obscured the level up there. I think Chamonix thought this through.

LENSBOARDS

The Hs-1 uses the Linhof type. I bought a couple of their carbon fiber ones and they're very nice, with black felt on the back in the groove. They fit smoothly into the front standard, and are secured with little thumb wheels.

RIGIDITY

The Hs-1 is quite rigid, even at its full extension.

THE COMPETITION

Here are a few other cameras out that I considered:

Ebony RSW45
The Ebony RSW45 was a camera made for Robert White in the UK that is somewhat similar to the Hs-1. It has shorter bellows (I don't have the specs in front of me) and does away with back movements entirely. Also, the front movements on the RSW are limited to front rise, fall, and tilt. In the end, although this camera appealed to me for it's beauty and simplicity and lightness, I thought it was just a little bit too single minded. I don't use back movements or swing very often, but I'd like them there if I need them. Also, with the retirement of Mr. Sakanashi, Ebony cameras are getting increasingly hard to find.

Shen-Hao XPO, Shen-Hao TFC45-IIB
The XPO looks like a very capable camera, but I decided against it because of the weight (5.7 pounds). The TFC-IIB has long intrigued me, but it has less bellows draw than the Hs-1 (190mm vs. 250mm). Also, I've never actually seen a Shen-Hao in the flesh, and while I know plenty of people like them, I just felt more comfortable going with Chamonix, which I was familiar with.

Tachihara
I know, not a non-folder, but a fine camera. I used one for some years and can't really think of anything bad to say about them. They're light, simple to use, rigid and good looking. But I wanted to try a non-folder so there you go.

CHAMONIX Hs-1 SUMMARY

Pros:
Well built.
Attractive.
Fast to set up.
Easy to use.
Light.

Cons:
Focus action takes some adapting to.
Painful third extension wheel.
Dark cloth gap awkwardness.
Not really the camera if you like long lenses.

In all, I am very happy with this camera. It fits with my way of working and is a pleasure to use. Of all the view cameras I have owned, this is the one that most "disappears," and for me that is a high compliment.

3 1/2 (out of 4) stars.

Oh, here's a link to the specs:

http://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/45H.html

If you have any questions, please let me know and I'll do my best to answer them.

-Austin

Picture 1: minimum extension
Picture 1: maximum extension
Picture 3: front view

158477 158478 158479

[austin granger]

More pictures.

Picture 1: The Painful Wheel
Picture 2: The Dark Cloth Gap
Picture 3: The Granger Fix for the Dark Cloth Gap

158472 158473 158474

[austin granger]

Final pictures.

Picture 1: Gratuitous Camera Yoga
Picture 2: Gratuitous Camera Yoga II

158475 158476

[jk0592]

Thanks for such a detailed exam of this interesting camera.
How does it do in cold weather, say around 0F ?

[austin granger]

I can't say just yet J.K., but it's snowing here in Portland today, so I might just get a chance to find out!

[jk0592]

I ask because up here, in the country side, temperature goes down often. And snow is everywhere around here also.

[jose angel]

First, thanks a lot for your interesting review.

Hmmm, I don`t understand the focus mechanism of this new cameras.
As far as I know they used to use worm-screw type mechanisms, with an on axis focus knob (wheel) at the back. I must admit this system is what makes me to stay away from their cameras. I may be wrong, but I think I much prefer the traditional, double knob, rack&pinion system. Again, I have never used a Chamonix, they actually look outstanding, but I haven`t still had the opportunity of tasting one.
From what I read on their site, "... The H series cameras are based upon our Chamonix design tradition: The screw-focus mechanism and stainless steel focus track make the camera very accurate... " but few lines below they say: "Our 45H1 and 45Hs1 cameras are designed differently than our 45N and 45F1 cameras. To increase the precision of camera, we have used linear focus track. But the side effect of this choice is low friction, especially when the camera is tilted with a heavy lens."
So I`m not sure about it. You mention the first line is actually wrong, and from the second line I understand it must be not rack&pinion, but a friction system (maybe like the one used on enlarger focus tracks, like e.g., on Beselers???). Could you extend on it? Thanks.

[Two23]

It looks nice, but I think I'm sticking with my 045N. I really love the worm drive focus. It makes things more convenient.


Kent in SD

[austin granger]

Jose, Hello. The H series cameras do not use the centered, worm screw-focus mechanism of the other Chamonix cameras. That is a typo on their website. They use the traditional, double knob system, although, I'm not sure if it's "rack and pinion" exactly. I think of pinions as being round, and on the Hs-1 it's more like beams. Maybe I should try and take a picture of that. In any case, it operates pretty much like the traditional system, with the exception that the left and right knobs are a bit more interconnected than that on my Deardorff. Just why that is, in a technical sense, I couldn't tell you.

As far as that quote about "low friction," I'm not exactly sure what they're getting at there. The focus on the Chamonix can certainly be locked down as tightly as with any other camera. And I have to say, it's all pretty smooth, with a quality feeling.

[austin granger]

Here are a few pictures of the focusing mechanism:

158481 158482 158483

[jose angel]

Thanks Austin. I cannot distinguish it on your photos, but yes, I tend to think the new system instead of a dentated rack and a dentated pinion use something like a flat beam and a flat wheel. I may be wrong. So I assume the left knob controls the friction, but I`m not sure. I have seen this on many devices, but never on a LF camera. If so, it is certainly a very interesting approach.
Anyway, this camera looks amazing. It`s sooo sexy.

Kent (and others), just another question: Do you find the Chamonix worm drive system comparable to the usual rack and pinion method? My fear is about any play or clearance while moving the standard back and forth for focusing. Also, does it have any "clutch" system to quickly extend or close the camera without the need of using the focus knob?

[Greg]

I use an older Chamonix 4x5 and an 11x14 Chamonix. The worm-screw mechanism for focusing on the 4x5 can be loved or hated. For many years I used a 4x5 Sinar Norma and was able to make any adjustments without removing my head from under the dark cloth. Unfortunately the Norma was anything but backpackable, so I got a 4x5 Chamonix for backpacking and have never looked back. After a while I becalms very comfortable using the worm-screw mechanism for focusing.
Now with the 11x14, using the worm-screw mechanism for focusing is a dream come true. I really think the worm-screw mechanism shows its advantages most as you get into the ULF Chamonix view cameras. Have corresponded with an owner of a 16x20 (could be a bit off on the format) and he told me the worm-screw mechanism was a "God's send" to him.

just my 2 cents

[Michael R]

Thanks for the review Austin. I've been interested in one of these or an H1 for a while, although that weirdo focus lock routine does sound a little clumsy.

I wonder why they went to the trouble of including a focusing scale but omitted mm markings?

No camera is perfect, but this looks darn good for short or normal focal lengths.

[austin granger]

Michael, Hi. You really do get used to the focusing technique. I don't even think about it anymore. I mostly wanted to convey that it does require two hands at once.

[seezee]

Here are a few pictures of the focusing mechanism:

158481 158482 158483

That's definitely a friction mechanism. If it were rack & pinion, the track would have grooves or teeth.

[Ari]

Congrats, Austin! It's a very handsome camera, and it sounds like you'll be very happy with it for years to come.
Every camera has its quirks, strengths and weaknesses; our job is to either live with the shortcomings, or sell the gear on eBay! :)
Nice review as well.

[BetterSense]

I think I would like this. I really adore simplicity, and having to set up view cameras is just fiddly enough to hamper my flow, yet MF cameras feel stifling due to lack of movements.

[JaZ99]

Austin, your review is spot on! I only have the camera for about week, and took only one fujiroid :o but I fell in love with it already.

The chamonix web site doesn't mention two things:
* fresnel is extra option
* if your quick release plate is using 1/4-inch screw, you need to buy an adapter (it is so cheap, it should be included)

JaZ

[dave_whatever]

That's definitely a friction mechanism. If it were rack & pinion, the track would have grooves or teeth.

It's definitely a rack and pinion like any other similar camera (Ebony, Walker, ShenHao etc). The toothed track is on the underside of each standard carrier, and geared axle is inlaid into the base of the camera, and hence both not visible in the above photo.

The only difference between the focussing on Chamonix H models and other comparable field cameras is that the focus runs very loosely and lightly compared to Ebony etc. The locking mechanism functionally is the same as on an Ebony or ShenHao, but there is less inbuilt friction in the running forwards and backwards of the standards. This gives rise to the issue described by the OP where you have to hang onto the focus knob when locking otherwise locking will push the focus forwards/backwards (also if you point the camera downwards without the focus locked the weight of the lens can pull the front bed out). It can be mitigated to an extent by partially tightening the locking knob before focussing.

[Two23]

Kent (and others), just another question: Do you find the Chamonix worm drive system comparable to the usual rack and pinion method? My fear is about any play or clearance while moving the standard back and forth for focusing. Also, does it have any "clutch" system to quickly extend or close the camera without the need of using the focus knob?


I have had cameras with the traditional focus (Shen Hao, Gundlach Korona) and just find the worm drive a little easier for me. Especially when the lenses start getting long--don't have to reach way out in front. The worm drive on my Chamonix is very "tight" and solid. I don't feel any play at all. There is enough resistance in the mechanism that stretching the bellows doesn't seem to be enough to pull the front standard back. It's a pretty gradual advance so it's easy to fine focus too.


Kent in SD

[Michael R]

Michael, Hi. You really do get used to the focusing technique. I don't even think about it anymore. I mostly wanted to convey that it does require two hands at once.

Thanks, Austin.

Another question since you have the Hs-1 rather than the H-1. My understanding is the Hs-1 was not supposed to have an asymmetric rear tilt, but in your photographs of the camera it looks like it does (ie the tilt point looks to be somewhere between base tilt and center tilt). It looks like it works the same way as the H-1. Am I wrong about this?

[austin granger]

That's definitely a friction mechanism. If it were rack & pinion, the track would have grooves or teeth.

dave_whatever has shed some light on this (see below) He owns this camera as well. Thanks Dave!


Congrats, Austin! It's a very handsome camera, and it sounds like you'll be very happy with it for years to come.
Every camera has its quirks, strengths and weaknesses; our job is to either live with the shortcomings, or sell the gear on eBay! :)
Nice review as well.

Thanks Ari! I'm really liking this one. It almost seems like it was made specifically for me, ha!


I think I would like this. I really adore simplicity, and having to set up view cameras is just fiddly enough to hamper my flow, yet MF cameras feel stifling due to lack of movements.

The simpler the better in my opinion. That way I can try and focus on the picture instead of the camera.


Austin, your review is spot on! I only have the camera for about week, and took only one fujiroid :o but I fell in love with it already.

The chamonix web site doesn't mention two things:
* fresnel is extra option
* if your quick release plate is using 1/4-inch screw, you need to buy an adapter (it is so cheap, it should be included)

JaZ

Thanks JaZ. I'm liking it a lot too. Thank for mentioning the tripod mount screw, I forgot about that. I was kind of bummed when I first got the camera and discovered I couldn't mount it on my tripod!


It's definitely a rack and pinion like any other similar camera (Ebony, Walker, ShenHao etc). The toothed track is on the underside of each standard carrier, and geared axle is inlaid into the base of the camera, and hence both not visible in the above photo.

The only difference between the focussing on Chamonix H models and other comparable field cameras is that the focus runs very loosely and lightly compared to Ebony etc. The locking mechanism functionally is the same as on an Ebony or ShenHao, but there is less inbuilt friction in the running forwards and backwards of the standards. This gives rise to the issue described by the OP where you have to hang onto the focus knob when locking otherwise locking will push the focus forwards/backwards (also if you point the camera downwards without the focus locked the weight of the lens can pull the front bed out). It can be mitigated to an extent by partially tightening the locking knob before focussing.

This is worth posting again, as it's much more clear than my ramblings. Thanks Dave!


I have had cameras with the traditional focus (Shen Hao, Gundlach Korona) and just find the worm drive a little easier for me. Especially when the lenses start getting long--don't have to reach way out in front. The worm drive on my Chamonix is very "tight" and solid. I don't feel any play at all. There is enough resistance in the mechanism that stretching the bellows doesn't seem to be enough to pull the front standard back. It's a pretty gradual advance so it's easy to fine focus too.


Kent in SD

Having used the F1, I can also attest to the solidity of the worm drive focusing system. It works great.


Thanks, Austin.

Another question since you have the Hs-1 rather than the H-1. My understanding is the Hs-1 was not supposed to have an asymmetric rear tilt, but in your photographs of the camera it looks like it does (ie the tilt point looks to be somewhere between base tilt and center tilt). It looks like it works the same way as the H-1. Am I wrong about this?

Michael, Hi. Yes, the rear tilt on the Hs-1 is located between base tilt and center tilt, but it does not have the asymmetric rear tilt feature like the F1 (with the separate grey knob) or like you find on the higher end Ebony cameras. Strangely, although Chamonix says on their website that the H-1 model has asymmetric rear tilt, from the photos of that camera, you're right, it looks identical to the Hs-1. Good eye! And a new mystery... I don't know the answer to that.

[seezee]

It's definitely a rack and pinion like any other similar camera (Ebony, Walker, ShenHao etc). The toothed track is on the underside of each standard carrier, and geared axle is inlaid into the base of the camera, and hence both not visible in the above photo.
I stand corrected.

[jose angel]

It's definitely a rack and pinion like any other similar camera (Ebony, Walker, ShenHao etc). The toothed track is on the underside of each standard carrier, and geared axle is inlaid into the base of the camera, and hence both not visible in the above photo.

The only difference between the focussing on Chamonix H models and other comparable field cameras is that the focus runs very loosely and lightly compared to Ebony etc. The locking mechanism functionally is the same as on an Ebony or ShenHao, but there is less inbuilt friction in the running forwards and backwards of the standards. This gives rise to the issue described by the OP where you have to hang onto the focus knob when locking otherwise locking will push the focus forwards/backwards (also if you point the camera downwards without the focus locked the weight of the lens can pull the front bed out). It can be mitigated to an extent by partially tightening the locking knob before focussing.
So I understand it`s just an "ordinary" rack&pinion mechanism... a loose type one, like that on e.g., the Canham cameras.

[dave_whatever]

Possibly, I've never handled a Canham so I'll have to take your word on that.

[Corran]

Thanks for your review Austin! I really like everything about the HS-1 except the weight really bugs me. I expect a camera with less bellows and such than my N-1 to be, well, lighter, but it's heavier instead! Not much heavier admittedly. Must be the different focus system. Probably won't buy one for now.

[Professional]

This is the large format that i really look for, i was hoping to get Ebony, but Ebony most cameras are out of production and very expensive, sounds this is the alternative and a good option, but i will go with H-1 instead of Hs-1, but hope to sell my current LF first to afford this without saving much budget.

I really hope to see more results of these H series Chamonix cameras.

[Two23]

I really hope to see more results of these H series Chamonix cameras.

It's really hard to go wrong with a Chamonix. I love mine--it's my second most used camera (after Nikon D800E.)



Kent in SD

[austin granger]

Thanks for your review Austin! I really like everything about the HS-1 except the weight really bugs me. I expect a camera with less bellows and such than my N-1 to be, well, lighter, but it's heavier instead! Not much heavier admittedly. Must be the different focus system. Probably won't buy one for now.

It might be the focusing system and also I think it's dimensionally a little bit larger than the N-1. I guess it depends on what you're used to though; compared with my Deardorff, the Hs-1 feels almost miniature (and feather light)!

[Professional]

It's really hard to go wrong with a Chamonix. I love mine--it's my second most used camera (after Nikon D800E.)



Kent in SD


This is also a good news to hear, so then when i can afford it or go for it i won't think twice, and i already have a faith in it if something cheaper and less remarkable can do great job as well, so Chamonix it is.

Still hoping to se more results out of this camera regardless how good they are, and i am not in rush.

[stawastawa]

Any more information on cold weather performance Austin?

looks like we will have another chance these next few days!

[Leszek Vogt]

Thanks for the write up, Austin. The camera looks great. I was hoping to see an image or two out of this slick rig.

Les

[austin granger]

Any more information on cold weather performance Austin?

looks like we will have another chance these next few days!

Yes, it's coming down pretty hard right now outside my window. I'm thinking on where I might try to get to tomorrow to make some pictures. During the last storm, I was foiled by road closures all over the place.

[austin granger]

Thanks for the write up, Austin. The camera looks great. I was hoping to see an image or two out of this slick rig.

Les


I've been out with it a half dozen times now and have really enjoyed it. If you're interested in pictures, below is a link to some recent ones. Most of the rectangular pics were made with the Hs-1.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/austingranger/

[Michael R]

It's so tempting but I have a few concerns. Mostly I'd like to know if there is any sag at all when extended. I wouldn't be using lenses longer than 180 so I likely wouldn't need to extend that extra plate in the front, but still wonder about sag with the back and front racked out for a 180. Maybe the H-1 would be better. Not sure. The compactness of the Hs-1 really appeals to me. On the other hand I use a 150 and 110 most of the time so maybe I'm worried too much about extension.

Wish I could try it before buying. That's the problem with view cameras - ie buying on specifications/marketing.

[dave_whatever]

There's not really any appreciable sag when the standards extend. Certainly not at 180mm. Compared to a normal chamonix N or F model there is more general flex in the rear standard if you push or pull it due to the increased mechanical complexity of the swing and rear shift, as you might expect, but overall it's still pretty rigid. Certainly for rigidity it knocks my old Shenhao TFC model into a cocked hat.

[Michael R]

Thanks for the response.

I still wonder if maybe the slightly less compact H-1 is the "safer" option (bed is 3cm longer so 3cm less extension required). Anyhow, food for thought.

[austin granger]

I can also attest that it's very rigid. More so than other cameras I've used. As far as extension goes, I'm using a 180 and have yet to need the "extra" extension.

Regarding cold weather, I was out this morning and it was 28 degrees (fahrenheit) and I had no problems whatsoever. In fact, I was enjoying the large knobs as I didn't have to remove my gloves at all.

158722

[Michael R]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger on this. Hugo even said they could add mm to the focusing scale. Just can't decide on the Hs-1 vs H-1...

[Professional]

Thanks for the feedback. I'm getting closer to pulling the trigger on this. Hugo even said they could add mm to the focusing scale. Just can't decide on the Hs-1 vs H-1...

I already decided on H-1, but as i said i want to sell my Shen Hao first, then i have to find a way to order this Chamonix either from Hugo or from the website.

[esearing]

The larger knobs are appealing to me. I have used a Shen-Hao and currently use an Ikeda Anba which is very light, but some days the tiny knobs are difficult to use. I also like the specs for the Chamonix N series and the HS1 which go down to 50MM. I often use a 65MM racked all the way in for infinity focus, and was thinking I might have to trade it for a 75MM just to have a bit more focus/adjustment room.

[mathomas]

Nice review, Austin. I really enjoyed reading it. The camera sounds great for a quick setup (esp. as opposed to the F1), and actually seems to have more movements and extension than I expected.

[tom43]

Sounds like an interesting new camera. Any information which lens can be used in the normal or even tele range? Is it possible to use lenses beyond 180mm?

[JaZ99]

With my Fujinon 240/9 I'm able to focus at 7 meters (23 ft).

[dodphotography]

The price is attractive. I've been helping a friend track down a 45su for a while and nothing really shows it's face. Plus... they're like 3x the cost.


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[Peter Collins]

Although Austin's review is for the 4x5 H series cameras, I want to chime in here. For me, I had a second Christmas at Easter 2017 when my Chamonix 45N-2 arrived! Gorgeous in teak, metallic grey hardware, and red standard bellows. A very simple decision by Chamonix--make all screws countersunk--makes for a very smooth and attractive appearance. I might add that this was an age-appropriate camera: I'm 72 in eight days, and fewer, simpler, lighter is better. The metal finish is outstanding; all 'corners' are very slightly chamfered, making all surfaces smooth and pleasant to the touch. And the large knobs are smooth and easy to use. The screw-focus mechanism is refined and makes it easy to move the ground glass into focus. I was attracted to the Chamonix design by looking at the photos of their cameras on the website--beautiful!! And the 45N-2 on my tripod is even more than I had expected.

Yes, you're right! I do like my Chamonix!

[dodphotography]

Although Austin's review is for the 4x5 H series cameras, I want to chime in here. For me, I had a second Christmas at Easter 2017 when my Chamonix 45N-2 arrived! Gorgeous in teak, metallic grey hardware, and red standard bellows. A very simple decision by Chamonix--make all screws countersunk--makes for a very smooth and attractive appearance. I might add that this was an age-appropriate camera: I'm 72 in eight days, and fewer, simpler, lighter is better. The metal finish is outstanding; all 'corners' are very slightly chamfered, making all surfaces smooth and pleasant to the touch. And the large knobs are smooth and easy to use. The screw-focus mechanism is refined and makes it easy to move the ground glass into focus. I was attracted to the Chamonix design by looking at the photos of their cameras on the website--beautiful!! And the 45N-2 on my tripod is even more than I had expected.

Yes, you're right! I do like my Chamonix!

The only feature I hate is the front standard pre process. I often times change focal lengths and having to unscrew / screw in deters me from the Chamonix / Phillips design.

The H system removing this is making me seriously consider a return.


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[RedGreenBlue]

Super review, Austin. Convinced me to take the plunge for an H model. Will probably opt for the H1 due to the slightly longer extension. I have a few questions for you or any Chamonix users.

My widest lens at this time is a 75mm f/4.5 Grandagon-N and longest, generally a 210 f/5.6 Sinaron-S. Any input on whether I should or should not order the fresnel would be appreciated.

Is it advisable or not to use Grafmatic holders? My Grafmatic experience has been with metal backs so I'm wondering if I might be stressing a wood back with these? Not a deal breaker.

I have plenty of decent plastic film holders so I can't come up with a reason to buy the Chamonix holders. I'm not made of money, but if there are some real positives about them I might order a few. Opinions appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott

[agregov]

I bought some Chamonix 4x5 holders with my Saber. I find I grab them first over my standard plastic holders when I shoot with my Arca 4x5. They're a bit lighter than standard holders and are generally nicer to handle. Backpackers especially like the Chamonix holders for 8x10 where every extra pound can matter. I would say grab a couple if you're curious and see how you like them. If you see no real difference, I'll bet you could sell them in For Sale pretty quick.

[Christopher Barrett]

I loved the Chamonix holders I ordered with my 4x10. Then when I got the 8x10, I got a half dozen of those holders from Hugo. Again, beautiful stuff. I've just ordered 10 4x5 holders too, but am on a waitlist for those. Considering these are priced similar to Toyos, I can't imagine going with plastic.

I also have an 8x10 and 4x5 glass plate holder on the way from them, will report back with pics.

CB

[Greg]

Since the 1970s till last year have used plastic Lisco, Fidelity, Riteway, etc. film holders. Few times they failed me with light leaks, but 99% of the time they just plain worked. Last year was in a position to purchase Whole Plate and 11x14 Chamonix film holders at prices that I couldn't pass up on. Once I got a chance to use the, never looked back. Dark slides at first seemed a bit stiff, but that turned out to be the feeling of a very positive removal and insertion. I did mark the dark slides with more prominent "unexposed" and "exposed" labels. My older plastic film holders I did notch to identify the holder and side in case of problems..... have seen no need to do this to the Chamonix holders. In the past I've used Sinar and Linhof film holders and Chamonix holders are equally precise. For my 4x5, I have a dozen or so Toyo holders. Toyo verses Chamonix holders... I can see how some might prefer one over the other, but both are of the best in quality, just a bit different in feel and use.

With the present prices of LF and ULF film, I can easily justify purchasing Chamonix film holders. Was a time in the late 1970's that I used to think nothing of shooting 2 sheets of Super-XX film for every shot I took. Well now with the cost of film way more up there in $$, I shoot one sheet of film in my Chamonix holder with full confidence in the holder.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I just bought the H-1 should be here in a couple of weeks. They tell me it is axial front tilt, but it looks a little low so I may correct that after I get the camera. Other than that, this camera has everything. I looked at probably a dozen cameras and a lot of research before I decided on the Chamonix. shame I gotta wait to use it until it gets here.

[gevalia]

Austin, I've had both the F1 and F2(current camera). After years of use, both my F1 and F2 have the same problem which is that the front standard locking screw is loose when tightened. This appeared after a lot of use. Often setting the shutter release causes out-of-focus results.

How is your H1 front standard locking holding up so far?

Ron

[Hugo Zhang]

Ron,

Sorry to hear about this. Do you mean the screw that locks the front standard into the base plate? I can send you a replacement screw.

Hugo

[gevalia]

Ron,

Sorry to hear about this. Do you mean the screw that locks the front standard into the base plate? I can send you a replacement screw.

Hugo

Hugo, no..Actually I mean the threaded piece in the baseplate that accepts the front standard screw.

[austin granger]

Hi all. I saw today that this thread is still active and thought I'd chime in.

I'm still enjoying my Hs-1 very much. Looking back over my original review, I wouldn't change much. The design of the extra extension wheel (the one mounted in the bed) still bugs me a little with its sharp edges, although honestly, I've only had to use it a handful of times. If it were up to me, the "handles" of this wheel would be more like those on the steering gear of an old sailing ship, more rounded. Also, I still have some trouble with my dark cloth getting a light-tight seal. The horizontal level is a bit off but with the ground glass grid and my eyeballs, I do okay. The large knobs have become slightly squeaky, but I'm sure that could be fixed with a drop of oil, I just keep forgetting to do that. That's about all I can think of. Besides these niggling complaints, I like this camera a lot. It's rigid, smooth, and overall a very easy camera to use. In short, if I had the choice to buy it again, I would.

Best, Austin

[Steven Ruttenberg]

I just received my H-1 and have been practicing with it. Focusing is as easy as it gets, the gg is super bright! And, it is very light, lighter than my 5DMKIII set up. The widest lens I use is a 75mm and so far, have not seen any issues with the supplied bellows when tilting/shifting/etc. I plan to use up to a 300mm lens on it which should not be a problem given it extends something like 350mm. I use a Really Right Stuff arca bracket to attach to my tripod. Did I say it was light? I would expect the H-1 to be the same as the Hs-1.

Focusing, is a simple as it gets. Loosen the left knob/s and focus with the right, then lock down with left. Tilting is a snap as well.

[Keith Pitman]

Hugo, no..Actually I mean the threaded piece in the baseplate that accepts the front standard screw.

I believe the “threaded piece” is a helicoil. You should be able to replace them. I cannot tell you how to do that, but you can probably find a You Tube that will tell you how to do so. That said, it’s hard to believe that a plastic screw would wear out a brass helicoil versus the other way around. Maybe the part Hugo offered would correct the problem.

[Russ Fill]

Very nice work Austin.. Loved the 4x10 or 6x17 work.

[dodphotography]

I have one of those and my honest assessment leaves with me two sentiments.. it’s a hell of a camera but at the end of the day I find 45 frustratingly small and I wish they would make this identical camera model and design as an 8x10. I’d buy one immediately.


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[Greg Y]

I wish they would make this identical camera model and design as an 8x10. I’d buy one immediately.
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I've been wishing for an "Alpine" version of the 5x7..... just because it's not heavy...doesn't mean it cant be lighter.

[charleymeyer]

Hi all, has anyone seen or used the 5X7 back/bellows unit for the H-1? I see it listed but not shown on the Chamonix site. Thanks, Charley

[dodphotography]

Sold my 45H, love the design but 45 isn’t for me... looking forward to (or rather hopeful) for the same design but in an 810 format


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[esearing]

I'd like one in 5x12, but Hugo won't make any until there is enough interest. Or would it not be cool if some manufacturer gave us a new LF format and did a special run with ilford for film.

[engelfangen]

The 5x7 "Alpine" existe. It's the 57n.

[Greg Y]

I had (57n) one back when..... but my Deardorff never broke down so i didn't use it very much.

[fuegocito]

Hi all, has anyone seen or used the 5X7 back/bellows unit for the H-1? I see it listed but not shown on the Chamonix site. Thanks, Charley

I have one, and it's exactly as advertised, light, compact and it matches up perfectly with the H1 base

[dodphotography]

I have one, and it's exactly as advertised, light, compact and it matches up perfectly with the H1 base

Share some pics!


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[fuegocito]

I think I might have posted these on another thread before but here they are again.

It's a nice look overall, not as toyish as the 4x5 setup :P

R


Share some pics!

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[Russ Fill]

I have the 5x7 and a 4x10 back for my H1. I must say that It is so nice to have all these options in one camera. I thought it would be a big deal changing from one back standard to the next but it takes about 1 min. Maybe.. Supper fast and very easy. I have a rather large camera bag now but Im packing the 4x5, 5x7, and 4x10 and a few film holders for each. So nice for when you go on a road trip and your thinking, man I wish I had a different format with me.
Here are a few shots with the 4x10 on the H1 and the last shot with the 4x5 all on the same road trip.
Just FYI Im also looking to get a 4x10 Wet plate holder and looking to split an order with anyone who might want to get one for their 4x10. These are Chamonix 4x10 wet plate holders. Chamonix will make 3 as a min order. PM me if you're interested.

https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=196204&d=1570318634&thumb=1&stc=1https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=196205&d=1570318689&thumb=1&stc=1https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=196206&d=1570318722&thumb=1&stc=1https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=196207&d=1570318783&thumb=1&stc=1

[davidpalermo]

I am about to buy a Chamonix 4x5. I am considering an F2 or an H1. I am leaning toward the H1 because it doesn't fold up and the back standard just seems like it is more easy to lock into place over the F2. I realize you can quick-focus on the F2 by sliding the back standard but after doing that you have to be sure you center it and lock in place... With the H1 though it's slower to focus it looks like the back standard will stay flush and not skew.

So, any opinions on my reasoning and choice? I will use this camera to shoot landscapes, sometimes old buildings and some portraits. I don't plan on using any lenses over 300mm. The widest I think I want to use is a 90mm. I will also get a 150mm and maybe a 210mm.

Thank you!

David

[dodphotography]

I am about to buy a Chamonix 4x5. I am considering an F2 or an H1. I am leaning toward the H1 because it doesn't fold up and the back standard just seems like it is more easy to lock into place over the F2. I realize you can quick-focus on the F2 by sliding the back standard but after doing that you have to be sure you center it and lock in place... With the H1 though it's slower to focus it looks like the back standard will stay flush and not skew.

So, any opinions on my reasoning and choice? I will use this camera to shoot landscapes, sometimes old buildings and some portraits. I don't plan on using any lenses over 300mm. The widest I think I want to use is a 90mm. I will also get a 150mm and maybe a 210mm.

Thank you!

David

I personally have a distaste for the worm screw focusing on the Phillips style Chamonix cameras. Hence my vote for the H.

The H is a nice camera and I regret selling it. Also, you can add a 57 back to the H down the road.


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[davidpalermo]

I am not familiar with the "worm screw" focusing but I am new to 4x5 so I guess that might be a good thing. The other thing is I want to buy a camera and not add too much too it... I probably won't ever use bag bellows or an extension rail or anything like that. Do you think the H1 bellows which are about 45mm shorter than the F2 will be sufficient for a 300mm lens? I'd like to focus on a person with a 300mm for a nice portrait occasionally.

[dodphotography]

I am not familiar with the "worm screw" focusing but I am new to 4x5 so I guess that might be a good thing. The other thing is I want to buy a camera and not add too much too it... I probably won't ever use bag bellows or an extension rail or anything like that. Do you think the H1 bellows which are about 45mm shorter than the F2 will be sufficient for a 300mm lens? I'd like to focus on a person with a 300mm for a nice portrait occasionally.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200707/cd86c0d5a635da7ed6742d70582170aa.jpg
See that wheel in the center below the GG, that’s how you get fine focus or focus in general if you don’t feel like unlocking the sliding knobs on the rear standard.

Yes, the H will suffice for sure. Remember, bellows length are useful indoors but you’ll find out that once you start racking bellows out any camera no matter the brand has stability issues with any kind of breeze outside. So it’s one of those internal debates vs practical use / experience you’ll get once you have it in your hand.

Are you Us based?


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[davidpalermo]

Ok I see. I like how the focus is on the back. I think on the H1 it's on the sides. Yes, I am in the US (Santa Barbara, CA). I frequently drive 100 miles N to the Sand Dunes and photograph there. I wonder which camera is a better camera for me? I didn't think it'd be this difficult! ; )

[dodphotography]

Ok I see. I like how the focus is on the back. I think on the H1 it's on the sides. Yes, I am in the US (Santa Barbara, CA). I frequently drive 100 miles N to the Sand Dunes and photograph there. I wonder which camera is a better camera for me? I didn't think it'd be this difficult! ; )

No matter what you choose, it will work and work well. It’s like deciding between two high end sports cars.


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[davidpalermo]

How do you all deal with windy days? Many of the places I go to have wind. Sometimes it's pretty gusty and strong. Do you just pack it up and call it a day or are there secret ways to keep large format cameras steady?

[dodphotography]

How do you all deal with windy days? Many of the places I go to have wind. Sometimes it's pretty gusty and strong. Do you just pack it up and call it a day or are there secret ways to keep large format cameras steady?

I’ve done a few tricks... use my body as a shield depending on the direction of the wind, have the film holder inserted with slide removed and wait (patiently) for a break from the wind / gusts, finally I purchased a small “beach changing pop up tent) and would have the camera and myself inside it (again though depending on wind direction)


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[davidpalermo]

So I recently sold my FujiFilm GFX 50s in order to buy this 4x5 and shoot film. Some people think I am crazy but I really like the idea of nothing automatic! I also prefer the look of film no matter how hard I try to simulate it digitally it just isn't the same to my eyes. Maybe I am crazy! ;)

[dodphotography]

So I recently sold my FujiFilm GFX 50s in order to buy this 4x5 and shoot film. Some people think I am crazy but I really like the idea of nothing automatic! I also prefer the look of film no matter how hard I try to simulate it digitally it just isn't the same to my eyes. Maybe I am crazy! ;)

My dude... 4x5 is the start. You don’t know crazy yet. Soon ULF will be calling your name. That is CRAZY.


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[davidpalermo]

Haha! Yes well... I came close to buying an 8x10 last week! Whew!

[Russ Fill]

Funny Im thinking that I need an 8x10 also after having the Chamonix Hs 1 with the 4x5 and 5x7 and a 4x10 back standard for it. So Im only left to complete the set an 8x10.
I also just finished my portable Darkroom for wet plate and made it so it would have enough room for a 8x10 setup inside.205599
And after or while building this darkroom I was rolling over in my head how I wold make a ULF camera to say do 24" or larger formats with my own hand made camera. Now thats crazy. ITs like a drug...:o

[davidpalermo]

Haha! I wanted an 8x10 to do platinum prints and some silver contact prints but I’ll stick with 4x5 for awhile and scan.

[Kiwi7475]

I am about to buy a Chamonix 4x5. I am considering an F2 or an H1. I am leaning toward the H1 because it doesn't fold up and the back standard just seems like it is more easy to lock into place over the F2. I realize you can quick-focus on the F2 by sliding the back standard but after doing that you have to be sure you center it and lock in place... With the H1 though it's slower to focus it looks like the back standard will stay flush and not skew.

So, any opinions on my reasoning and choice? I will use this camera to shoot landscapes, sometimes old buildings and some portraits. I don't plan on using any lenses over 300mm. The widest I think I want to use is a 90mm. I will also get a 150mm and maybe a 210mm.

Thank you!

David

I had the same conundrum a few years back.
I went with the F2 because it gives you the most capability. You don’t know in the future what lens you may want to use. The H1 is a slightly more “tuned” tool, less “general application”.

If you don’t know precisely where you may be going, what you’ll be exploring, and have no strong biases between the two types, I’d pick the one that offers you the most flexibility. That is the F2.

I have no complaints/regrets. I am sure H1 owners feel the same way. There’s probably not a wrong answer. They’re not that different at a high level.

Worst case, and I’m sure you won’t get there, you can probably resell after a few months/a year with little investment loss and change horses if you’re really unhappy.

[grat]

About the F2-- there are two tabs on the bottom of the rear standard that when in the "out" position, stop the rear standard at vertical, so it's very easy to set up. But, unfolding / folding the front standard to put it away is a bit of a pain, and you have to remove the lens to do so, whereas on the H1, you don't have to do either.

However, the H1 can suffer from focus creep if you have it angled up or down with a large lens on it, and the H1 takes up more space when packed away.

[davidpalermo]

I’m assuming there is a way to lock focus once you’ve set it?

[dodphotography]

I wonder why Chamonix doesn’t have a way to lock focus once you’ve set it?

Is budget a concern? Otherwise just wait for an Ebony 45 to pop up. SV45 is about as GOLD as it gets.


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[davidpalermo]

Beyond my budget!

[grat]

There are locks, but it can be fiddly when doing fine focus.

From Chamonix's web site:


The first step: Loosen all the knob locks and use only your eyes (without a loupe) for the initial composition and focusing, then tighten the focus knob locks half way gradually.

The second step: Keep the locks half tightened as it is the only way the focus knobs maintain enough friction. Then use a loupe for fine focus and completely tighten the focus locks after the focus process is finished. Please remember to use one hand to hold the focus knob while the other hand is used to tighten the focus locks, otherwise slight focus shift will occur due to the worm effect of the screw-focus feature.

I'm sure it's not alone in this issue, so people have been dealing with it for years-- but it is one reason to prefer the rear worm-drive focusing over side rack/pinion style.

[davidpalermo]

Yes I have read that on Chamonix's site and was concerned with it a bit. I have also been told it's really not a big deal so I dunno. Since I have never used any 4x5 since high-school I don't remember how they feel or what I should buy but I am pretty set on a Chamonix. I just don't yet which one! I'll still going back and forth with the F2 and H1. Both have thier strengths and both have their weaknesses. As was mentioned for the stuff I want to do and the lenses I want to use I think either will work just fine.

I want to use a 90, 150, 210 and a 300 for my work. Either camera has more movements than I will most likely use. I think they both have back asymmetrical tilt too.

If any of you have John Sexton's books in the back he lists the lenses he used which is very helpful to me. I can look at the image and then look at the lens he used. His focal lengths are in line with what I like.

[Alan Klein]

There are locks, but it can be fiddly when doing fine focus.

From Chamonix's web site:



I'm sure it's not alone in this issue, so people have been dealing with it for years-- but it is one reason to prefer the rear worm-drive focusing over side rack/pinion style.

I have the Chamonix 45H-1 and find this is a pain in the neck. It slips out of focus as you're tightening while you're juggling the loupe. It's a poor design. Maybe with time I'll get better at it.

The levels or their holders are not very accurate. Using a separate level is better. Even my eye is more consistent then their levels.

Also, the standard in the back does not stand upright when you click into the indent for it. It leans slightly back at the nominal indent. There must be an adjustment. Does anyone know?

[davidpalermo]

Well, that is disappointing! I was about to buy it tonight. Hmmmm..... better think more about this!

[fdrsblanket]

@Alan Klein: I recently purchased a F-2 and I had the similar thought that the back doesn't quite stand upright. However, it does look like the front standard has the same amount of very slight lean when in it's zero indent.

[Alan Klein]

@Alan Klein: I recently purchased a F-2 and I had the similar thought that the back doesn't quite stand upright. However, it does look like the front standard has the same amount of very slight lean when in it's zero indent.

All you have to do is lean a little and all three will be parallel. :)

[davidpalermo]

The main thing is has that slight tilt or slant affected your photographs?

[grat]

I checked my 45N-1 (Classic) with a square, and when set up, both standards are at 90 degrees to the base, or so close that it really doesn't matter. The front/rear bubble is spot on, and the left/right bubble is just a hair off (bubble needs to be slightly right of center to be level).

[CatSplat]

I also took a square to my 45F-2 and with the back set on the indexing pegs, the back is dead straight.

[fdrsblanket]

@CatSplat: I never even thought of using my square to actual check. I just did that, and you're right, it's straight. Must just be my eyes.

[CatSplat]

Yeah, I figure there's a bit of an optical illusion happening due to the back being narrower at the top. Happy to hear things are all shipshape on yours!

[Alan Klein]

I'll have to get a square to check.

[davidpalermo]

Well I’ve come full circle I think. I almost bought a Toyo 45AX (very similar to a 45AII) but I wanted stop in here and find out what you think.

The Toyo is about $1200 more than the Chamonix 45H-1. It’s all metal and built like a tank. It’s heavier. I think it’s 5.8lbs or so.

My question about the Chamonix H-1 is how well would it do with a 300mm lens? The subject I want to photograph is an old tree at Point Lobos in Carmel. When I photographed it with a 35mm I needed a 98mm to fill the frame so I’m assuming I need a 300mm on the Chamonix. (I cannot physically get closer to this tree). Here is the crop I want to do with a 4x5:

https://www.davidpalermo.com/prints/xl8yxh4259oiss9529m4av7ny099of-nfx8b-4n2gp-zppa6-f2zrf-ydpg6-r95jd-3gzdj-jcrgz

Will the Chamonix H-1 be able to get this shot do you think?

If I buy the Chamonix I will save $1200 but I really want to be happy with whatever camera I buy. Toyo is appealing.

Thank you!

David


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[Greg Y]

I've got a Dagor 12" in a compound shutter that I got from Jay Dusard. It's a very hefty lens and my Chamonix handles it just fine. Albeit that it's only 240mm, but Nikkor M and Fuji A 300 are smaller & lighter.

[davidpalermo]

I think someone mentioned the bellows is not long enough for a 300mm except if focused at infinity. The tree is 25ft from my camera and I have no idea if I can do that with a 300mm on the H-1.

Thank you!


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[Corran]

Assuming you cropped the top/bottom, you need more like a 360mm or 400mm lens for that photo if you shot it with a 100mm lens.

Of course you could use the Nikkor-T 360mm f/8 telephoto to shoot that in the same place, and have bellows to spare.

Don't get caught up in "paralysis by analysis," get the camera that most seems to fit with your style now and work with it. There is no "perfect" camera and you may find you love it or you hate it after you get to using it.

I have a Chamonix 45n1, which was my 4th LF camera (after first a Toyo GII monorail beast, then a Crown Graphic, then a Zone VI, and finally the Chamonix). It has some age-related issues that I won't go in to but I have shot thousands of sheets of film with it. It can do most anything well, including shooting lenses from 47mm to 720mm. I don't have an H-series but I'm sure they are just swell, within the limitations of their design (350mm bellows, check the specs*).

*I see now that the HS-1 has 250mm bellows. The H-1 has 350mm. If you are wanting to shoot a 300mm+ lens, obviously you'll want to avoid the HS-1 model. You'll also want to read up on what "tophat lens boards" are for more food for thought. IMO, why not get an N or F model? A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush...

[Greg Y]

Right David I see it only has 250mm of bellows draw
But..... a Fujinon T 300 f 8 needs only 200mm of draw.
I've used a few field cameras Ebony, Deardorff, Canham and both the 5x7h and 2 versions of the Chamonix 45 & I quite like them. Nothing at all wrong with the Toyo either.... though there's enough of them around i'm not sure i'd spring for a new one.

[davidpalermo]

[QUOTE\] IMO, why not get an N or F model? A bird in the hand is worth two in the bush...[/QUOTE

Because I don’t like having to set it up from a folding position. The H-1 is pretty much already setup.


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[Corran]

Forgive me for stating the obvious...but you don't have to collapse it.

I only fold up my Chamonix when I'm storing it in a bag for travel. Once it's setup, I leave it open and ready, on the tripod either over my shoulder or attached to my backpack (looks like a huge over-the-shoulder GoPro :)).

Either way, you probably don't want the H-1 if you are shooting longer lenses.

[davidpalermo]

That’s true but I’d collapse it and put it in my backpack. I don’t enjoy hiking with the camera in the tripod.

I also don’t like how the front standard is not connected to the bed. Also the tilt and rise I think are both controlled by one knob. It’s fiddly. But, like cameras , I’m quirky too!


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[Eric Leppanen]

The tree is 25ft from my camera and I have no idea if I can do that with a 300mm on the H-1.

http://kennethleegallery.com/html/tech/bellows.php

[davidpalermo]

Thanks Eric!


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[davidpalermo]

http://kennethleegallery.com/html/tech/bellows.php

Ok so if the tree is 25ft and I’m using a 300mm lens, I’d need 312mm worth of bellows extension.

The Toyo is 321mm (421 if I add an extender - for over $800!!!)

The Chamonix H-1 is 350mm.

So both cameras should work for this tree!

Thanks again Eric! Very helpful info.


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[Alan Klein]

Well, I checked the back standard again on my 45H-1. It seems vertical. I was complaining that it didnt look straight before, but it seems OK now.

[nicelynice]

Sorry to drag up an old thread. I am considering between the H-1 and HS-1. I plan to use the camera for backpacking in a single-lens system with the lens attached. I am happier with this workflow more than a folding camera with the lens stored separately, and while the weight will be a bit more, I think the volume would be similar.

My concern is the lens going beyond the dimensions of the case or baseboard when attached to the camera. Can anyone tell me what dimensions or lenses they've successfully mounted to the HS-1 and stored it in the case without the lens jutting out? I think the H-1 might have more room, but I have no need of the extra bellows extension or asymmetric tilt, but might prefer it just because of the added room of storing a lens attached safely

[Bill Poole]

Fully retracted, the baseboard extends well beyond the front of a mounted lens. (Barring something ginormous, which you wouldn’t use with this camera.). Let me know private if you want a photo.


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[Bill Poole]

I am going to amend my reply to note that my camera is the H1 and the largest lens I use is a 90mm Super Angulon. The base off the camera protrudes plenty far enough beyond the front element of that leans. That said, I do not carry this camera in a backpack, although I would not hesitate to do so with the lens attached, given sufficient padding and rigidity. Hope this helps.

[nicelynice]

Thank you for the information. I actually wasn't too worried about the H1 - I understand the baseboard has more than enough room for the lenses. Was more concerned with the HS-1, which has 30cm less length than the H1, if it was enough to keep a lens "safely" attached and put into a bag and then a backpack

[FredrickSummers]

Sorry to drag up an old thread. I am considering between the H-1 and HS-1. I plan to use the camera for backpacking in a single-lens system with the lens attached. I am happier with this workflow more than a folding camera with the lens stored separately, and while the weight will be a bit more, I think the volume would be similar.

My concern is the lens going beyond the dimensions of the case or baseboard when attached to the camera. Can anyone tell me what dimensions or lenses they've successfully mounted to the HS-1 and stored it in the case without the lens jutting out? I think the H-1 might have more room, but I have no need of the extra bellows extension or asymmetric tilt, but might prefer it just because of the added room of storing a lens attached safely

I have mounted my Nikon 75 f4.5, Nikon 150 f5.6, and Nikon 210 f5.6 all with caps and had ample room still. A tele or barel lens wouldn't find but I don't know of any "normal" lens that wouldn't on a normal board.

I love my H1, mine came with a very nice bag you could use for backpacking to keep the lens and camera safe with everything else.

[Steven Ruttenberg]

use the HS-1, keep my lens attached. I use a Nikkor 75mm f/4.5, 90mm Super Angulon, and a 210mm G-Claron. All fit when in my back pack in my camera bag (Large Fstop)

Love the Hs-1, but thinking of switching to the 45N-2 and the 810V with a reducer for when I do 4x5 and 5x7 to use my Voigtlander and Kodak lenses.

[nicelynice]

use the HS-1, keep my lens attached. I use a Nikkor 75mm f/4.5, 90mm Super Angulon, and a 210mm G-Claron. All fit when in my back pack in my camera bag (Large Fstop)

Love the Hs-1, but thinking of switching to the 45N-2 and the 810V with a reducer for when I do 4x5 and 5x7 to use my Voigtlander and Kodak lenses.


Fantastic, great to hear. Was thinking of using the same bag as well. Now just need to wait for the HS-1 to come back into production...

[many]

Hi Austin,

Are you still happy with your Chamonix?
Do you know if the Chamonix can take the 47XL?
Thanks.