X-ray film from Z&Z Medical

[Goldman]

I was ready to buy the green Fuji X-ray film from Z&Z medical, but the sales person recommended the single emulsion Carestream X-ray film.
Here is the link: https://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-ray-supplies/x-ray-film/kodak-x-ray-film/8x10-in-carestream-kodak-ektascan-b-ra-single-emulsion-video-film.html
Is any body used this x-ray film (8x10 Carestream single emulsion video x-ray)

Thanks
Bill

[Jim Noel]

It is the only film I use in the 8x10. I wish they made it in 5x12 and 7x17. Easy to handle,good speed, nice negatives.

[Tin Can]

Yes, some like it, but it is more money. I use it.

I also use Kodak CSG Carestream double sided.

I have never used Fuji.

[Jim Noel]

Even though it is more costly, it is dirt cheap when compared to the price of traditional panchromatic films. Besides, it doesn't scratch very easily.

[vdonovan]

I use it and I really like it. MUCH less easy to scratch than the double sided. I shoot it at ISO 50, it develops about the same as the double-sided.

[koraks]

If I could get it here in europe at a reasonable price, I would use it all the time, I'm sure. It's the superior choice in xray film.

[Peter Gomena]

Nice! Now maybe I can afford 14x17 film for pinhole camera use. Thanks for the link!

[Alan9940]

Dang, the price of Ektascan sure has gone up since I bought it last! I've used it, but so far I've never got an acceptable (to me) neg from it. However, now that I've got a good development technique worked out with CSG Green I'm going to give Ektascan another go.

[Will Frostmill]

This stuff is blue sensitive, right?

[koraks]

No, Ektascan BR/A is green sensitive (and therefore also blue-sensitive, but not exclusively).

[Goldman]

I am from Canada, but when I checked the Z&Z medical, they quoted international shipment. It will cost me $24.77 US. I discover that most of the time shipping to Europe are even cheaper. You can pick the item and when you check the shopping cart it will ask you about the country, or just email your questions. The people from Z&Z Medical are very good and will answer you quickly.

Bill

[koraks]

I have looked into it before. Sadly, it's just not feasible. Shipped to Europe and with taxes and duties paid, it's barely cheaper than Fomapan 100.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I use both double-sided green and single-sided Ektascan. I prefer the look and feel of the double-sided. Ektascan is just too darn sharp for my liking. I also like how the double-sided green renders foliage lighter. But in the end, it's a personal choice! Have fun!

[Goldman]

I ordered both: single emulsion Ektaskan and Fuji green (Double emulsion) from Z&Z Medical. I read here about the type of developers for x-ray film. I am mixing D-76 Developer from raw chemicals and I am thinking to use less amount of hydroquinone. As soon as I get the x-ray film I will do the experiment and will post it.

Thanks
Bill

[ValoPeikko]

I have looked into it before. Sadly, it's just not feasible. Shipped to Europe and with taxes and duties paid, it's barely cheaper than Fomapan 100.

I've been hunting for a good reliable X-ray film supplier from EU which would have even remotely cheap prices when combined with shipping. But haven't found any.. I'd love to order 18x24 sheets since I like using orthochromatic films and there doesn't seem to be many around. But hunt continues..

[locutus]

If you ever find one, let me know. I'm also in Finland :-)

[koraks]

18x24 is much more difficult to get than 8x10", which can be had easily and at reasonable costs on e.g. ebay. You may consider cutting down 8x10" to 18x24cm.

[ValoPeikko]

I haven't seen 8x10 either with in EU easily available... And actually places that sell to medical use don't even seem to carry that size here..

[premortho]

Ektascan is orthochromatic film. The blue films used to be called "regular" by some manufacturers...blue film is the opposite of ortho film, or panchro film in that it is mono-chromatic, although all the rest have been improved versions of mono-chromatic. So, blue film is sensitive to blue light more or less only. Ortho is sensitive to all colors except red, Panchro was correctly balanced for red at one time but has been over-sensitive to red for the last 30 years or so in order to get repeatable negative performance at any temperature of light, and higher speeds.

[Stephen Thomason]

Yes, I use the single emulsion and recommend you do the same. It's great film. Many posts on this forum that explain why folks prefer the single emulsion for photographic purposes.

[Luis-F-S]

Will people who are having good success with it pls post some exposure and developing recommendations? I'm having a heck of a time with contrast on this film, both in exposing and developing it. Thanks! L

[EdWorkman]

Hey Luis
What have you tried?
There are boo coo combinations that have been noted in these messages
EI 80-125 should work. Too much contrast? stay away from paper developers
Or use Dektol if not enough
When I calibrated I used a liquid FILM developer from Freestyle, or Photowarehouse for ease of mixing and temp control
The dilution I started out with was too dilute and I quickly adjusted.
Gosh it's been a few years since Gene started us on this path, so I'm pretty sure my exact notes won't apply anymore
Oh, and I used blue, with a box of green in the freexer- but the general guide should work

[SergeiR]

Will people who are having good success with it pls post some exposure and developing recommendations? I'm having a heck of a time with contrast on this film, both in exposing and developing it. Thanks! L

Read technical thread. Its only 400+ pages of actual answers to this.

[Luis-F-S]

Read technical thread. Its only 400+ pages of actual answers to this.

I have, all 400 plus pages. Seems most people are using the double emulsion film, not the EB/RA. L

[Alan9940]

Will people who are having good success with it pls post some exposure and developing recommendations? I'm having a heck of a time with contrast on this film, both in exposing and developing it. Thanks! L

Are you using Ektascan, CSG, or other green sensitive film? How are you developing? If you look through all the posts in the "x-ray technical" thread, I'm sure you'd get, at least, a couple dozen combinations to try out. That said, if you're using Ektascan I had a terrible time with contrast in this film when using rotary development. Then, I switched to tray development using this technique: Rodinal 1:100 @75F (I live in the desert southwest), after initial immersion I agitate for 1 min by lifting each side of the tray, one time, going around clockwise; then it sits until the next min and I agitate, again. I use flat bottom trays because I process both Ektascan and CSG and I do I 5 min pre-soak. Oh, and I shoot both films at EI 50 in bright mid-day level sunlight...don't get many clouds here in the desert. ;)

Hope this helps lead you in a positive direction.

[Luis-F-S]

Using the Ektascan B/RA, developing in HC-110 1.5 oz to a gallon. Developing in hangers, so I can vary the agitation. I'm going to try when I get home changing my exposure techniques. Most of my LF work the past 30 years has been with Tri-X in HC-110 but I'm just venturing out to the X-ray realm. Thanks, L

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Ektascan single sided shot at 80 developed four at a time in 1 gallon tanks Rodinal 1:100 for nine minutes.Normal agitation. How are you printing? I only print carbon transfer and I really need more development to get to my ideal contrast and DR. It is really easy because you can watch it develop. To fat go to a higher dilution. Try Rodinal and make your life simple.

[Fr. Mark]

Or use pyrocat HD 1:1:100 or 2:2:100 for about 8 minutes as starting point. It is a nice film. Foma 100 is panchromatic, I think, this is not, therefore a different look, but not as much like dags or wet plate as blue xray films, this is at least green and maybe yellow/orange sensitive. Not red. Use dim red safelights and you can develop by inspection.

[Alan9940]

Using the Ektascan B/RA, developing in HC-110 1.5 oz to a gallon. Developing in hangers, so I can vary the agitation. I'm going to try when I get home changing my exposure techniques. Most of my LF work the past 30 years has been with Tri-X in HC-110 but I'm just venturing out to the X-ray realm. Thanks, L

I tried hangers, too, but that wasn't successful for me. You may want to do a search on YouTube; there is a guy there who talks about developing green sensitive film with Obsidian Aqua (a pyro developer.) You might be able to adapt his technique to Ektascan. Oh, I tried HC-110 but Rodinal worked out best for me.

Good luck!

[Andrew O'Neill]

Obsidian Aqua + Ektascan = Razor Sharp

But seriously, take Jim's advice and use Rodinal or its variant like Blazinal (that's what I use up here in Canada). 20C, 1+100, tray, intermittent agitation. I can't give you a time as mine are loooooooong, for alt printing, such as carbon...

[Andrew O'Neill]

I have also found that this film is very sensitive to acid stop baths....pinholes! I just use a water rinse. No more pinholes.

[William Whitaker]

Old thread, but still timely...
I just ordered some CSG 8x10 from Z&Z and it's worth noting that their shipping estimator gave me one amount. But the shipping cost at checkout was $4 higher for UPS ground. The chat link did not work, so I called to ask (as I'm on a tight budget these days). I was told that since my shipping address is a residential address, that accounted for the increased shipping. I didn't think UPS played that game, that it was a FedEx thing.
But I totally believe UPS would do that after a couple of recent experiences with them where they were clearly lining their pockets.
I will say the lady at Z&Z was very pleasant and helpful, although she did not offer to comp me the difference in shipping.
Shipping beefs aside, I can't complain too much. $92 shipped for 200 sheets of 8x10 CSG was a lot more economical than 25 sheets of FP4 from B&H, despite free shipping from the latter.
Just wanted to let the masses know of the shipping discrepancy ordering from Z&Z. Otherwise a positive experience so far.

[j.e.simmons]

UPS does it, too. When I shipped UPS the software has a box to check whether it was business or home.

[callmebrick]

Old thread, but still timely...
I just ordered some CSG 8x10 from Z&Z and it's worth noting that their shipping estimator gave me one amount. But the shipping cost at checkout was $4 higher for UPS ground. The chat link did not work, so I called to ask (as I'm on a tight budget these days). I was told that since my shipping address is a residential address, that accounted for the increased shipping. I didn't think UPS played that game, that it was a FedEx thing.

The UPS shipping software we use at work has a check box for residential address and it does raise the price by a few dollars. Z&Z's shipping estimator probably defaults to business delivery.